Hi Francis,

I had problems trying to charge NiMH with my SSG. Although the voltage
in the batteries appered to rise while the SSG was running as soon as
the rotor was stopped the voltage would drop and they would hardly
light a light bulb.

I use two 12v 1.2Ah Gel Cells and they do charge. The only problem I
have had with the 1.2Ah gel cells is staying within the c20 discharge
rate of 50mA. IMO 1.2Ah is too small for practical experiments with
the SSG. If you can try to get a pair of batteries nearer 7Ah they
will serve you well during your testing.

Try to listen to your coil firing with an off station AM radio. This
advice was given to me when I first started. It helped me understand
what I was seeing in my meters and made tuning the SSG less difficult
after a little practice.

Regards Lee.


--- In Bedini_Monopole3@yahoogroups.com, Rick Friedrich
<rickfriedrich@...> wrote:
>
> Francis,
>
>   I don't have much time right now so maybe some others can respond
in more detail. You may want to just keep with the same batteries and
start with Lead Acid ones or gels. When you use those other batteries
they may have problems. If one of them is problematic it can affect
the others. Also overstressing a power adapter can cause difficulties
which you do not appear to be doing.
>   The short end of the matter is this. When you put the resistance
on the pot up higher the motor can speed up to a point when it will
draw very little but also charge very little. So max rpm is not
necessarily max charging. What you learn in all this experimenting is
how you can adjust things to get either more speed or more charging or
more torque. Must go.
>
>   Rick
>
> Date: Tue, 27 Jun 2006 18:36:45 -0000
> To: Bedini_Monopole3@yahoogroups.com
> From: "alfrancis_f" <alfrancis_f@...>
> Subject: Re: update
>
> hi luther,
>
> thanks for the reply, ive been waiting for an advice since the motor
> start to spin... my diagnosis is this, for the meantime ive been
> using a power adaptor of 12volts ,500ma, and the second battery that
> ive been charging is a series of 2.24 volts Ni-mh rechargeable
> batteries, that gives me a 11 volts plus. The 12 volts input supply,
> when i used it to run the motor, the current is at 100ma to 180ma
> and runs the motor, but as i raise the potentiometer variable
> resistor, the coil receive is 80ma, but the motor slows down, so i
> stick to 90ma, and it runs ok, about 300 plus rpm, i measured the
> output voltage without the second battery, from the 1n4007 to the
> positive terminal input supply, it measures about 1.3 volts.. i run
> the motor for 10 hrs. but it disharged so fast..I have no scope to
> measure the output pulses of 200 volts. So no charging so far,,,is my
> setup wrong? or did i missed something, why it doesnt charge? is my
> battery not applicable, only lead acid? or my magnet doesnt match,
> but it runs.. please help me on this id really like to know whats
> wrong?...
>
> my setup-
>
> input battery-12 volts power supply 500ma..
> output battery- 11 volts of Ni-mh rechargeable
> coil- 900 turns of 23# and 20# gauge magnet wire
> spool - 3 in. dia., 3 in. length and 3/4 core diameter with welding
> rods cut into length of the spool.
> magnets- north face 5 pieces of 20mmx13mmx5mm
> rotor,- aluminum at 4 in. dia from a hardrive
> 2n3055 transistor,1n4007,1n4001,variable resistor at 1k.. and wires
> at gauge 10# to 12# with aligator clips..
>
>
> very much thankful,
> francis
>
>
> --- In Bedini_Monopole3@yahoogroups.com, Luther Goodman
> wrote:
> >
> > Hello alfrancis,
> >
> > What have you done so far in the way of diagnosis? Have you
> walked through the circuit with your voltmeter to verify that you are
> getting voltage out to the battery? If so, do you have a lead acid
> battery you could hook up to your replication? Your car battery could
> be used for temporary testing. Have you been seeing any charge prior
> to this problem?
> >
> > Thanks and best regards,
> >
> > Luther
> >
> >
> >
> >
> > alfrancis_f wrote:
> > hi to all again,the setup ive made has a problem, it does
> not charge
> > the 2nd battery, i dont know why, is it wrong to use a power supply
> in
> > this setup and the 2nd battery that is charged was Ni-Mh or lithium
> > ion....can someone advice me on this... thanks
> >
> >
> >
> >
> >
> >
> > ---------------------------------
> > Yahoo! Messenger with Voice. Make PC-to-Phone Calls to the US (and
> 30+ countries) for 2¢/min or less.
> >
>
>
>
>
>
>
>
>
>  __________________________________________________
> Do You Yahoo!?
> Tired of spam?  Yahoo! Mail has the best spam protection around
> http://mail.yahoo.com
>

hi luther,

thanks for the reply, ive been waiting for an advice since the motor
start to spin... my diagnosis is this, for the meantime ive been
using a power adaptor of 12volts ,500ma, and the second battery that
ive been charging is a series of 2.24 volts Ni-mh rechargeable
batteries, that gives me a 11 volts plus. The 12 volts input supply,
when i used it to run the motor, the current is at 100ma to 180ma
and runs the motor, but as i raise the potentiometer variable
resistor, the coil receive is 80ma, but the motor slows down, so i
stick to 90ma, and it runs ok, about 300 plus rpm, i measured the
output voltage without the second battery, from the 1n4007 to the
positive terminal input supply, it measures about 1.3 volts.. i run
the motor for 10 hrs. but it disharged so fast..I have no scope to
measure the output pulses of 200 volts. So no charging so far,,,is my
setup wrong? or did i missed something, why it doesnt charge? is my
battery not applicable, only lead acid? or my magnet doesnt match,
but it runs.. please help me on this id really like to know whats
wrong?...

my setup-

input battery-12 volts power supply 500ma..
output battery- 11 volts of Ni-mh rechargeable
coil- 900 turns of 23# and 20# gauge magnet wire
spool - 3 in. dia., 3 in. length and 3/4 core diameter with welding
rods cut into length of the spool.
magnets- north face 5 pieces of 20mmx13mmx5mm
rotor,- aluminum at 4 in. dia from a hardrive
2n3055 transistor,1n4007,1n4001,variable resistor at 1k.. and wires
at gauge 10# to 12# with aligator clips..

very much thankful,
francis

--- In Bedini_Monopole3@yahoogroups.com, Luther Goodman
<goodman_luther@...> wrote:
>
> Hello alfrancis,
>
> What have you done so far in the way of diagnosis? Have you
walked through the circuit with your voltmeter to verify that you are
getting voltage out to the battery? If so, do you have a lead acid
battery you could hook up to your replication? Your car battery could
be used for temporary testing. Have you been seeing any charge prior
to this problem?
>
> Thanks and best regards,
>
> Luther
>
>
>
>
> alfrancis_f <alfrancis_f@...> wrote:
> hi to all again,the setup ive made has a problem, it does
not charge
> the 2nd battery, i dont know why, is it wrong to use a power supply
in
> this setup and the 2nd battery that is charged was Ni-Mh or lithium
> ion....can someone advice me on this... thanks
>
>
>
>
>
>
> ---------------------------------
> Yahoo! Messenger with Voice. Make PC-to-Phone Calls to the US (and
30+ countries) for 2¢/min or less.
>

Date: Tue, 27 Jun 2006 18:36:45 -0000
To: Bedini_Monopole3@yahoogroups.com
From: "alfrancis_f" <alfrancis_f@...>
Subject: Re: update

hi luther,

thanks for the reply, ive been waiting for an advice since the motor
start to spin... my diagnosis is this, for the meantime ive been
using a power adaptor of 12volts ,500ma, and the second battery that
ive been charging is a series of 2.24 volts Ni-mh rechargeable
batteries, that gives me a 11 volts plus. The 12 volts input supply,
when i used it to run the motor, the current is at 100ma to 180ma
and runs the motor, but as i raise the potentiometer variable
resistor, the coil receive is 80ma, but the motor slows down, so i
stick to 90ma, and it runs ok, about 300 plus rpm, i measured the
output voltage without the second battery, from the 1n4007 to the
positive terminal input supply, it measures about 1.3 volts.. i run
the motor for 10 hrs. but it disharged so fast..I have no scope to
measure the output pulses of 200 volts. So no charging so far,,,is my
setup wrong? or did i missed something, why it doesnt charge? is my
battery not applicable, only lead acid? or my magnet doesnt match,
but it runs.. please help me on this id really like to know whats
wrong?...

my setup-

input battery-12 volts power supply 500ma..
output battery- 11 volts of Ni-mh rechargeable
coil- 900 turns of 23# and 20# gauge magnet wire
spool - 3 in. dia., 3 in. length and 3/4 core diameter with welding
rods cut into length of the spool.
magnets- north face 5 pieces of 20mmx13mmx5mm
rotor,- aluminum at 4 in. dia from a hardrive
2n3055 transistor,1n4007,1n4001,variable resistor at 1k.. and wires
at gauge 10# to 12# with aligator clips..


very much thankful,
francis


--- In Bedini_Monopole3@yahoogroups.com, Luther Goodman
wrote:
>
> Hello alfrancis,
>
> What have you done so far in the way of diagnosis? Have you
walked through the circuit with your voltmeter to verify that you are
getting voltage out to the battery? If so, do you have a lead acid
battery you could hook up to your replication? Your car battery could
be used for temporary testing. Have you been seeing any charge prior
to this problem?
>
> Thanks and best regards,
>
> Luther
>
>
>
>
> alfrancis_f wrote:
> hi to all again,the setup ive made has a problem, it does
not charge
> the 2nd battery, i dont know why, is it wrong to use a power supply
in
> this setup and the 2nd battery that is charged was Ni-Mh or lithium
> ion....can someone advice me on this... thanks
>
>
>
>
>
>
> ---------------------------------
> Yahoo! Messenger with Voice. Make PC-to-Phone Calls to the US (and
30+ countries) for 2¢/min or less.
>

__________________________________________________
Do You Yahoo!?
Tired of spam? Yahoo! Mail has the best spam protection around
http://mail.yahoo.com

hi luther,

thanks for the reply, ive been waiting for an advice since the motor
start to spin... my diagnosis is this, for the meantime ive been
using a power adaptor of 12volts ,500ma, and the second battery that
ive been charging is a series of 2.24 volts Ni-mh rechargeable
batteries, that gives me a 11 volts plus. The 12 volts input supply,
when i used it to run the motor, the current is at 100ma to 180ma
and runs the motor, but as i raise the potentiometer variable
resistor, the coil receive is 80ma, but the motor slows down, so i
stick to 90ma, and it runs ok, about 300 plus rpm, i measured the
output voltage without the second battery, from the 1n4007 to the
positive terminal input supply, it measures about 1.3 volts.. i run
the motor for 10 hrs. but it disharged so fast..I have no scope to
measure the output pulses of 200 volts. So no charging so far,,,is my
setup wrong? or did i missed something, why it doesnt charge? is my
battery not applicable, only lead acid? or my magnet doesnt match,
but it runs.. please help me on this id really like to know whats
wrong?...

my setup-

input battery-12 volts power supply 500ma..
output battery- 11 volts of Ni-mh rechargeable
coil- 900 turns of 23# and 20# gauge magnet wire
spool - 3 in. dia., 3 in. length and 3/4 core diameter with welding
rods cut into length of the spool.
magnets- north face 5 pieces of 20mmx13mmx5mm
rotor,- aluminum at 4 in. dia from a hardrive
2n3055 transistor,1n4007,1n4001,variable resistor at 1k.. and wires
at gauge 10# to 12# with aligator clips..


very much thankful,
francis


--- In Bedini_Monopole3@yahoogroups.com, Luther Goodman
<goodman_luther@...> wrote:
>
> Hello alfrancis,
>
>   What have you done so far in the way of diagnosis? Have you
walked through the circuit with your voltmeter to verify that you are
getting voltage out to the battery? If so, do you have a lead acid
battery you could hook up to your replication? Your car battery could
be used for temporary testing. Have you been seeing any charge prior
to this problem?
>
>   Thanks and best regards,
>
>   Luther
>
>
>
>
> alfrancis_f <alfrancis_f@...> wrote:
>           hi to all again,the setup ive made has a problem, it does
not charge
> the 2nd battery, i dont know why, is it wrong to use a power supply
in
> this setup and the 2nd battery that is charged was Ni-Mh or lithium
> ion....can someone advice me on this... thanks
>
>
>
>
>
>
> ---------------------------------
> Yahoo! Messenger with Voice. Make PC-to-Phone Calls to the US (and
30+ countries) for 2¢/min or less.
>

hi to all again,the setup ive made has a problem, it does not charge
the 2nd battery, i dont know why, is it wrong to use a power supply in
this setup and the 2nd battery that is charged was Ni-Mh or lithium
ion....can someone advice me on this... thanks

hi to all again,the setup ive made has a problem, it does not charge
the 2nd battery, i dont know why, is it wrong to use a power supply in
this setup and the 2nd battery that is charged was Ni-Mh or lithium
ion....can someone advice me on this... thanks

hi,, i finally got the rotor going, i used power supply adaptor first,
but no battery for charging.. i used my small magnet, since it took a
fast push spin to activate the transistor... i uploaded the picture
showing the coil and the rotor spinning... at last it gone through ,
but i need to buy a second multimeter and others to make it effecient
and for testing purposes... im not through yet for the overunity
effect,...i hope i can pursue this without any disapointment...
thanks..........ill update if theres anything new.....

Al,

The magnets are very common. They are sold at Radio Shack in the USA
or are known as domino size magnets. I get them cheep from AZ
Industries with a minimum order of $50 (then they cost $0.44 each--
otherwise $1.29 at Radio Shack for orders under 10 and $.99 over 10).

You can use other magnets that are smaller. But then you probably
want to double stack them--again depending on what transistor you
use. If you use the little MPS8099 transistor you can use smaller
magnets without double stacking them. But if you use the 2N3055 or
others you will want to double or tripple stack smaller ceramic
magnets.

Keep the coil the same, or else use the original School Girl
schematic (which is found on keelynet.com (someone can put it in the
files section here) if you go with the smaller transistor and
magnets.

Rick

--- In Bedini_Monopole3@yahoogroups.com, "alfrancis_f"
<alfrancis_f@...> wrote:
>
> hi, good day... i cant wait to get it done,im a bit
confused, ...this
> is what i have in mind,,, i have the magnet but not as big as the
> required magnet, so does that mean i cant perform the steps
given ???
> im sourcing out every electronic shop that has a magnet this
> size...but it turns unsuccessful, but i will try and try to find
> some...,so  i want to build now even if the setup is half of its
> original specs...if i build this on a rotor at 4 inches in diameter
> and used this little magnet and the coil is also 450 turns half the
> said requirement will ill be able to get the result in the same
setup
> that as that of the sg motor setup...please, i need your advice for
> this matter...thank you very much again.....
>
>
>
>
>
>
> --- In Bedini_Monopole3@yahoogroups.com, "rickfriedrich"
> <rickfriedrich@> wrote:
> >
> > You can use about any size rotor over about 2 inches, but when
you
> go
> > really small it can get difficult. The best to use is the biggest
> > aluminum rimmed wheel you can find. It is very easy to setup and
> work
> > with.
> >
> > I don't know where you find the statement where you say, "it
says".
> >
> > You can use other ceramic 5 or 8 magnets, but just don't use ones
> with
> > holes in the middle. If you use small ones they probably will not
> work
> > well enough on the coil mentioned on the front page and in the
> > particular plans given. You can make however a very small SSG
setup
> > with a small coil as the original school girl did, and thus use
> smaller
> > magnets on your rotor. Also then you would use the smaller
> transistor
> > as mentioned. You just need to be able to have the transistor
turn
> on,
> > and if the magnets are too small they will not turn on a larger
> > transistor, etc.
> >
> > Rick
> >
> > --- In Bedini_Monopole3@yahoogroups.com, "alfrancis_f"
> > <alfrancis_f@> wrote:
> > >
> > > hi,im starting to build the rotor,it says that aluminum disk at
> > > diameter 4 inches can also be used..,and about the magnet, do i
> have
> > to
> > > get the 1x2x3/8 ceramic magnet, cause i only have small
> > > magnets...please advice me if im doing the right
thing,,,...thank
> you.
> > >
> >
>

You can use about any size rotor over about 2 inches, but when you go
really small it can get difficult. The best to use is the biggest
aluminum rimmed wheel you can find. It is very easy to setup and work
with.

I don't know where you find the statement where you say, "it says".

You can use other ceramic 5 or 8 magnets, but just don't use ones with
holes in the middle. If you use small ones they probably will not work
well enough on the coil mentioned on the front page and in the
particular plans given. You can make however a very small SSG setup
with a small coil as the original school girl did, and thus use smaller
magnets on your rotor. Also then you would use the smaller transistor
as mentioned. You just need to be able to have the transistor turn on,
and if the magnets are too small they will not turn on a larger
transistor, etc.

Rick

--- In Bedini_Monopole3@yahoogroups.com, "alfrancis_f"
<alfrancis_f@...> wrote:
>
> hi,im starting to build the rotor,it says that aluminum disk at
> diameter 4 inches can also be used..,and about the magnet, do i have
to
> get the 1x2x3/8 ceramic magnet, cause i only have small
> magnets...please advice me if im doing the right thing,,,...thank you.
>

Ken,

Good to hear.
Do not remove the charging battery while running as this puts tension
on the transistor and can burn it out if done for long enough. There is
protection with the neon bulb, but with a medium or large setup even
the neon does not protect the transistor from burning out if the
charging bank is removed. It should be the first thing you check to see
is connected securely before you start your wheel rotating, or before
you hook up the powering battery.

Rick

--- In Bedini_Monopole3@yahoogroups.com, "lerameur" <lerameur@...>
wrote:
>
> Hey,
>
> I dont have the discharge problem anymore. Although I am hearing
> click click noise from the transistor. That is happening only when
> the charge battery is NOT connected ..!
>
>
> Ken

Hey,

I dont have the discharge problem anymore. Although I am hearing
click click noise from the transistor. That is happening only when
the charge battery is NOT connected ..!


Ken

--- In Bedini_Monopole3@yahoogroups.com, "rickfriedrich"
<rickfriedrich@...> wrote:
>
> Ken,
>
> You can burn out these pots easily if you turn them too fast under
> operation. The long safe way is to turn them only when the machine
is
> not moving, or else slowly. And if you go too low with them they
can
> heat up and burn out and smoke and smell, etc. Later on you can go
up
> in wattage as you experiment, but 1/2w should be fine.
>
> Not sure why your charge battery is discharging unless you have the
> IN4007 diode backwards. The line on the diode should be as the
> diagram on the battery side and the flow goes to that positive
> battery terminal.
> When you ran your setup with the pot blown did you notice any
heating
> of the coil or transistor? I have seen coils melt and have blow
> transistors many times from a big pop to having them just not work
as
> they should. Hopefully you have not blown a transistor. Usually
when
> that happens you can see at least some flickering on the neon bulb.
>
> Anyway, check your diode, and try another battery and see what
> happens.
>
> Rick
>
> --- In Bedini_Monopole3@yahoogroups.com, "lerameur" <lerameur@>
> wrote:
> >
> > Hi
> >
> > I bought another potentiometer. I think mine was not good.
> > Now the motor is turning much faster then before and the source
> > battery is discharging at a normal rate. Just one think, the
charge
> > battery is actually slowly discharging, i dont get that. !
> >
> > ken
> >
> > --- In Bedini_Monopole3@yahoogroups.com, "rickfriedrich"
> > <rickfriedrich@> wrote:
> > >
> > > Ken,
> > >
> > > I said all I did because you shared that the other battery did
> not
> > > discharge very fast, but behaved normal and discharged slowly.
If
> > > that is the case then the other batteries have the same sort of
> > > problem. You can test them, as you should, with a simple load
> test
> > as
> > > outlined. If they discharge very fast, faster then they should,
> > then
> > > you know you have a problem with them.
> > >
> > > On the other hand, if every battery, good or bad, discharge too
> > fast,
> > > then you either need bigger batteries on the front or you need
to
> > > turn the pot up to a higher resistance. One should start at 1k
> ohms
> > > on the pot and work back slowly. If you try and run the setup
> with
> > 0
> > > ohms on the pot and only the 10 ohms resistor then that will be
> too
> > > low resistance and will over heat the resistor, transistor, and
> > > wires. There is an ideal resistance for every different setup,
> > > depending on the gap, wire size and length, magnets, etc., and
> that
> > > is why we have a variable resistor on the trigger wire along
with
> a
> > > base resistor.
> > >
> > > Now, if you go too low on the resistance then you will push too
> > much
> > > current from the primary battery and you will not get ideal
> > charging.
> > > If you go too high on the resistance then the wheel will stop
and
> > or
> > > you will not get good charging (I have run a wheel at as low as
I
> > > could go until it almost stopped--my meter showed no amp draw,
> but
> > I
> > > also did not charge any battery, I just had free wheel
rotation).
> > So
> > > you want to find that ideal middle sweet spot. So you go from
the
> > > high point slowly lower. It is a learning process, nothing to
be
> > > worried about as some have elsewhere. All we want to do on this
> > list
> > > is try and get that spot aproximately and do some basic load
> tests
> > > and then move on.
> > >
> > > So if all your batteries, including the one that did not go
down
> > > fast, go down fast, then your resistance is too high and needs
to
> > be
> > > turned up till you are drawing very little and yet still
charging
> > > your back end battery (where the ratio is approximately best--
> > lowest
> > > amp draw to highest charging and/or highest rpm). If turning
the
> > pot
> > > makes no difference then your pot is blown out and needs
> replacing.
> > > Again, one should check the pot before adding it to the circuit
> > that
> > > it is set for 1k ohms with your ohms meter, then slowly turn it
> > > backwards bit by bit until you get what you are after (which
> takes
> > a
> > > little time).
> > >
> > >
> > > This list is only about building the starting circuit as shown
on
> > the
> > > front page. The other lists deal all the other related
technology-
> -
> > > which can be joined after successful replication of this basic
> > setup.
> > >
> > > The patent you can find on the US patent online website under
the
> > > following name and number:
> > > United States Patent  6,677,730
> > > John C. Bedini  January 13, 2004
> > >
> > > Device and method for pulse charging a battery and for driving
> > other
> > > devices with a pulse
> > >
> > > Rick
> > >
> > >
> > > --- In Bedini_Monopole3@yahoogroups.com, "lerameur" <lerameur@>
> > > wrote:
> > > >
> > > > Hi,
> > > >
> > > > can you upload the plans for the Bedini's solid state
> > > > pulse charger.
> > > > Also, I tried other 12v batteries ( 3 in all ) and they all
do
> > > that ,
> > > > they discharge in a crazy time, even with an almost full
> battery
> > at
> > > > the charging cycle. I find this very weird.
> > > >
> > > > ken
> > > >
> > >
> >
>

Ken,

You can burn out these pots easily if you turn them too fast under
operation. The long safe way is to turn them only when the machine is
not moving, or else slowly. And if you go too low with them they can
heat up and burn out and smoke and smell, etc. Later on you can go up
in wattage as you experiment, but 1/2w should be fine.

Not sure why your charge battery is discharging unless you have the
IN4007 diode backwards. The line on the diode should be as the
diagram on the battery side and the flow goes to that positive
battery terminal.
When you ran your setup with the pot blown did you notice any heating
of the coil or transistor? I have seen coils melt and have blow
transistors many times from a big pop to having them just not work as
they should. Hopefully you have not blown a transistor. Usually when
that happens you can see at least some flickering on the neon bulb.

Anyway, check your diode, and try another battery and see what
happens.

Rick

--- In Bedini_Monopole3@yahoogroups.com, "lerameur" <lerameur@...>
wrote:
>
> Hi
>
> I bought another potentiometer. I think mine was not good.
> Now the motor is turning much faster then before and the source
> battery is discharging at a normal rate. Just one think, the charge
> battery is actually slowly discharging, i dont get that. !
>
> ken
>
> --- In Bedini_Monopole3@yahoogroups.com, "rickfriedrich"
> <rickfriedrich@> wrote:
> >
> > Ken,
> >
> > I said all I did because you shared that the other battery did
not
> > discharge very fast, but behaved normal and discharged slowly. If
> > that is the case then the other batteries have the same sort of
> > problem. You can test them, as you should, with a simple load
test
> as
> > outlined. If they discharge very fast, faster then they should,
> then
> > you know you have a problem with them.
> >
> > On the other hand, if every battery, good or bad, discharge too
> fast,
> > then you either need bigger batteries on the front or you need to
> > turn the pot up to a higher resistance. One should start at 1k
ohms
> > on the pot and work back slowly. If you try and run the setup
with
> 0
> > ohms on the pot and only the 10 ohms resistor then that will be
too
> > low resistance and will over heat the resistor, transistor, and
> > wires. There is an ideal resistance for every different setup,
> > depending on the gap, wire size and length, magnets, etc., and
that
> > is why we have a variable resistor on the trigger wire along with
a
> > base resistor.
> >
> > Now, if you go too low on the resistance then you will push too
> much
> > current from the primary battery and you will not get ideal
> charging.
> > If you go too high on the resistance then the wheel will stop and
> or
> > you will not get good charging (I have run a wheel at as low as I
> > could go until it almost stopped--my meter showed no amp draw,
but
> I
> > also did not charge any battery, I just had free wheel rotation).
> So
> > you want to find that ideal middle sweet spot. So you go from the
> > high point slowly lower. It is a learning process, nothing to be
> > worried about as some have elsewhere. All we want to do on this
> list
> > is try and get that spot aproximately and do some basic load
tests
> > and then move on.
> >
> > So if all your batteries, including the one that did not go down
> > fast, go down fast, then your resistance is too high and needs to
> be
> > turned up till you are drawing very little and yet still charging
> > your back end battery (where the ratio is approximately best--
> lowest
> > amp draw to highest charging and/or highest rpm). If turning the
> pot
> > makes no difference then your pot is blown out and needs
replacing.
> > Again, one should check the pot before adding it to the circuit
> that
> > it is set for 1k ohms with your ohms meter, then slowly turn it
> > backwards bit by bit until you get what you are after (which
takes
> a
> > little time).
> >
> >
> > This list is only about building the starting circuit as shown on
> the
> > front page. The other lists deal all the other related technology-
-
> > which can be joined after successful replication of this basic
> setup.
> >
> > The patent you can find on the US patent online website under the
> > following name and number:
> > United States Patent  6,677,730
> > John C. Bedini  January 13, 2004
> >
> > Device and method for pulse charging a battery and for driving
> other
> > devices with a pulse
> >
> > Rick
> >
> >
> > --- In Bedini_Monopole3@yahoogroups.com, "lerameur" <lerameur@>
> > wrote:
> > >
> > > Hi,
> > >
> > > can you upload the plans for the Bedini's solid state
> > > pulse charger.
> > > Also, I tried other 12v batteries ( 3 in all ) and they all do
> > that ,
> > > they discharge in a crazy time, even with an almost full
battery
> at
> > > the charging cycle. I find this very weird.
> > >
> > > ken
> > >
> >
>

Hi

I bought another potentiometer. I think mine was not good.
Now the motor is turning much faster then before and the source
battery is discharging at a normal rate. Just one think, the charge
battery is actually slowly discharging, i dont get that. !

ken

--- In Bedini_Monopole3@yahoogroups.com, "rickfriedrich"
<rickfriedrich@...> wrote:
>
> Ken,
>
> I said all I did because you shared that the other battery did not
> discharge very fast, but behaved normal and discharged slowly. If
> that is the case then the other batteries have the same sort of
> problem. You can test them, as you should, with a simple load test
as
> outlined. If they discharge very fast, faster then they should,
then
> you know you have a problem with them.
>
> On the other hand, if every battery, good or bad, discharge too
fast,
> then you either need bigger batteries on the front or you need to
> turn the pot up to a higher resistance. One should start at 1k ohms
> on the pot and work back slowly. If you try and run the setup with
0
> ohms on the pot and only the 10 ohms resistor then that will be too
> low resistance and will over heat the resistor, transistor, and
> wires. There is an ideal resistance for every different setup,
> depending on the gap, wire size and length, magnets, etc., and that
> is why we have a variable resistor on the trigger wire along with a
> base resistor.
>
> Now, if you go too low on the resistance then you will push too
much
> current from the primary battery and you will not get ideal
charging.
> If you go too high on the resistance then the wheel will stop and
or
> you will not get good charging (I have run a wheel at as low as I
> could go until it almost stopped--my meter showed no amp draw, but
I
> also did not charge any battery, I just had free wheel rotation).
So
> you want to find that ideal middle sweet spot. So you go from the
> high point slowly lower. It is a learning process, nothing to be
> worried about as some have elsewhere. All we want to do on this
list
> is try and get that spot aproximately and do some basic load tests
> and then move on.
>
> So if all your batteries, including the one that did not go down
> fast, go down fast, then your resistance is too high and needs to
be
> turned up till you are drawing very little and yet still charging
> your back end battery (where the ratio is approximately best--
lowest
> amp draw to highest charging and/or highest rpm). If turning the
pot
> makes no difference then your pot is blown out and needs replacing.
> Again, one should check the pot before adding it to the circuit
that
> it is set for 1k ohms with your ohms meter, then slowly turn it
> backwards bit by bit until you get what you are after (which takes
a
> little time).
>
>
> This list is only about building the starting circuit as shown on
the
> front page. The other lists deal all the other related technology--
> which can be joined after successful replication of this basic
setup.
>
> The patent you can find on the US patent online website under the
> following name and number:
> United States Patent  6,677,730
> John C. Bedini  January 13, 2004
>
> Device and method for pulse charging a battery and for driving
other
> devices with a pulse
>
> Rick
>
>
> --- In Bedini_Monopole3@yahoogroups.com, "lerameur" <lerameur@>
> wrote:
> >
> > Hi,
> >
> > can you upload the plans for the Bedini's solid state
> > pulse charger.
> > Also, I tried other 12v batteries ( 3 in all ) and they all do
> that ,
> > they discharge in a crazy time, even with an almost full battery
at
> > the charging cycle. I find this very weird.
> >
> > ken
> >
>

Ken,

I said all I did because you shared that the other battery did not
discharge very fast, but behaved normal and discharged slowly. If
that is the case then the other batteries have the same sort of
problem. You can test them, as you should, with a simple load test as
outlined. If they discharge very fast, faster then they should, then
you know you have a problem with them.

On the other hand, if every battery, good or bad, discharge too fast,
then you either need bigger batteries on the front or you need to
turn the pot up to a higher resistance. One should start at 1k ohms
on the pot and work back slowly. If you try and run the setup with 0
ohms on the pot and only the 10 ohms resistor then that will be too
low resistance and will over heat the resistor, transistor, and
wires. There is an ideal resistance for every different setup,
depending on the gap, wire size and length, magnets, etc., and that
is why we have a variable resistor on the trigger wire along with a
base resistor.

Now, if you go too low on the resistance then you will push too much
current from the primary battery and you will not get ideal charging.
If you go too high on the resistance then the wheel will stop and or
you will not get good charging (I have run a wheel at as low as I
could go until it almost stopped--my meter showed no amp draw, but I
also did not charge any battery, I just had free wheel rotation). So
you want to find that ideal middle sweet spot. So you go from the
high point slowly lower. It is a learning process, nothing to be
worried about as some have elsewhere. All we want to do on this list
is try and get that spot aproximately and do some basic load tests
and then move on.

So if all your batteries, including the one that did not go down
fast, go down fast, then your resistance is too high and needs to be
turned up till you are drawing very little and yet still charging
your back end battery (where the ratio is approximately best--lowest
amp draw to highest charging and/or highest rpm). If turning the pot
makes no difference then your pot is blown out and needs replacing.
Again, one should check the pot before adding it to the circuit that
it is set for 1k ohms with your ohms meter, then slowly turn it
backwards bit by bit until you get what you are after (which takes a
little time).


This list is only about building the starting circuit as shown on the
front page. The other lists deal all the other related technology--
which can be joined after successful replication of this basic setup.

The patent you can find on the US patent online website under the
following name and number:
United States Patent  6,677,730
John C. Bedini  January 13, 2004

Device and method for pulse charging a battery and for driving other
devices with a pulse

Rick


--- In Bedini_Monopole3@yahoogroups.com, "lerameur" <lerameur@...>
wrote:
>
> Hi,
>
> can you upload the plans for the Bedini's solid state
> pulse charger.
> Also, I tried other 12v batteries ( 3 in all ) and they all do
that ,
> they discharge in a crazy time, even with an almost full battery at
> the charging cycle. I find this very weird.
>
> ken
>

Hi,

can you upload the plans for the Bedini's solid state
pulse charger.
Also, I tried other 12v batteries ( 3 in all ) and they all do that ,
they discharge in a crazy time, even with an almost full battery at
the charging cycle. I find this very weird.

ken

--- In Bedini_Monopole3@yahoogroups.com, "rickfriedrich"
<rickfriedrich@...> wrote:
>
> Looks like your one battery is warn out by the looks of it. This
can
> happen by abuse, long life sitting on a shelf, long use with
> conventional systems, or by manufacturing errors. I used to be a
> mechanic and we would sometimes get bad batteries right from the
> factory. Probably just sulfated inside. You could put a desulfator
on
> it to rapidly desulfate it, or even bettery make Bedini's solid
state
> pulse charger as some of us have and desulfate it and condition it
> raptidly, or you could put it on the back charging end of this
setup
> for some time until it cold boils up around 15 volts. Cold boiling
is
> where the battery is about room temperature and you see that the
> battery is bubling a good bit while being charged. But if a battery
> is sulfated it can take a long time to even get the battery up to
> that kind of voltage and boiling--depending on how sulfated it is,
> and how warn the plate material.
>
> In this beginning stage it is strongly recommended that you get
brand
> new batteries that have not even sit on the shelf at some store (as
> they sometimes can sit there for years and sulfate and have much
less
> life in them then they are rated for). You can do this by ordering
> batteries from a store that does not have them in stock.
>
> As I said, you can desulfate and condition batteries with this
> circuit, but this is not our primary or first goal. I have done
that
> many times with batteries that could no longer take a charge with
any
> other charger normally sold in stores.
>
> It will not be good to evaluate your setup and learn this circuitry
> with an old battery. Your results will not be very impressive as
most
> have found. The lower the resistance in your charging bank the more
> it will receive this kind of energy into it. Thus the more sulfated
a
> battery is the higher its resistance and less it can receive this
> kind of energy. And thus, a brand new battery can even be more
> conditioned over time, and charge faster and faster with the same
> front end draw, as well as put out more power--because the
resistance
> may go down as the molecules break up even more inside.
>
> It is great to use what you can get and make what you can. I have
> done that many times. But I just want to stress that a Bedini
> replication is one where all parts that are used are in proper
> working new condition. This goes for not only batteries, but
> transistors, wire, diodes, and resistors and pots.
>
> Rick
>
> --- In Bedini_Monopole3@yahoogroups.com, "lerameur" <lerameur@>
> wrote:
> >
> > HI,
> >
> > got my Rod yesterday: RG60, same as R60.
> > I think I am getting better repulsion with this, but not as much
> as I
> > thought. Anyway  I have two 12v battery now. one is 7 amp/hour
and
> the
> > other 5amp/hour. When I use the 5 amp as the source, it goes from
> 12.6v
> > to 6.6 volt in about an hour. but when I inverse the battery,
using
> the
> > 7 amp/hour as the source, then it decreases very slowly as it
> should,
> > any idea ? do I have to use the same strenght batteries ?, it
wont
> make
> > sens cuse what is the popint of putting many batteries in
parallel
> in
> > the charging ciruit ?!
> >
> > ken
> >
>

Looks like your one battery is warn out by the looks of it. This can
happen by abuse, long life sitting on a shelf, long use with
conventional systems, or by manufacturing errors. I used to be a
mechanic and we would sometimes get bad batteries right from the
factory. Probably just sulfated inside. You could put a desulfator on
it to rapidly desulfate it, or even bettery make Bedini's solid state
pulse charger as some of us have and desulfate it and condition it
raptidly, or you could put it on the back charging end of this setup
for some time until it cold boils up around 15 volts. Cold boiling is
where the battery is about room temperature and you see that the
battery is bubling a good bit while being charged. But if a battery
is sulfated it can take a long time to even get the battery up to
that kind of voltage and boiling--depending on how sulfated it is,
and how warn the plate material.

In this beginning stage it is strongly recommended that you get brand
new batteries that have not even sit on the shelf at some store (as
they sometimes can sit there for years and sulfate and have much less
life in them then they are rated for). You can do this by ordering
batteries from a store that does not have them in stock.

As I said, you can desulfate and condition batteries with this
circuit, but this is not our primary or first goal. I have done that
many times with batteries that could no longer take a charge with any
other charger normally sold in stores.

It will not be good to evaluate your setup and learn this circuitry
with an old battery. Your results will not be very impressive as most
have found. The lower the resistance in your charging bank the more
it will receive this kind of energy into it. Thus the more sulfated a
battery is the higher its resistance and less it can receive this
kind of energy. And thus, a brand new battery can even be more
conditioned over time, and charge faster and faster with the same
front end draw, as well as put out more power--because the resistance
may go down as the molecules break up even more inside.

It is great to use what you can get and make what you can. I have
done that many times. But I just want to stress that a Bedini
replication is one where all parts that are used are in proper
working new condition. This goes for not only batteries, but
transistors, wire, diodes, and resistors and pots.

Rick

--- In Bedini_Monopole3@yahoogroups.com, "lerameur" <lerameur@...>
wrote:
>
> HI,
>
> got my Rod yesterday: RG60, same as R60.
> I think I am getting better repulsion with this, but not as much
as I
> thought. Anyway  I have two 12v battery now. one is 7 amp/hour and
the
> other 5amp/hour. When I use the 5 amp as the source, it goes from
12.6v
> to 6.6 volt in about an hour. but when I inverse the battery, using
the
> 7 amp/hour as the source, then it decreases very slowly as it
should,
> any idea ? do I have to use the same strenght batteries ?, it wont
make
> sens cuse what is the popint of putting many batteries in parallel
in
> the charging ciruit ?!
>
> ken
>

HI,

got my Rod yesterday: RG60, same as R60.
I think I am getting better repulsion with this, but not as much  as I
thought. Anyway  I have two 12v battery now. one is 7 amp/hour and the
other 5amp/hour. When I use the 5 amp as the source, it goes from 12.6v
to 6.6 volt in about an hour. but when I inverse the battery, using the
7 amp/hour as the source, then it decreases very slowly as it should,
any idea ? do I have to use the same strenght batteries ?, it wont make
sens cuse what is the popint of putting many batteries in parallel in
the charging ciruit ?!

ken

Hey,

I had order some R60 rod like I told you guys. Man i was suppsee to get
it last friday. Called them today, now they are back order for another
week,, so not this friday , but maybe the next one... Thats not how to
run a business. anyway , called another place, they had some RG60, the
spec sheet says its 99% the same thing. I am going to get those in two
days.

ken

Hi,

I put up two pictures of my circuit.¸
Also , I am still waiting for my order of R60 weldind rod. I am using
coat hangers now. I think I should wait for that to run more test.
For the rest, my setup is pretty much exactly from what you are
describing. I'll let you know once I received he rods.

ken


--- In Bedini_Monopole3@yahoogroups.com, "rickfriedrich"
<rickfriedrich@...> wrote:
>
> Gene,
>
> I'm not sure if I can state it clearer than what I have. The only
> thing in addition is that when you wind the coil as I have said,
you
> end up with the wires at around the top which go to the positive of
> the primary and the other going to the resistor as shown on the
front
> page.
>
> Ken,
>
> You need to upload your pictures to this list as that is what I
> created it for. Put it in a new folder with your name in the photos
> section.
>
> Sounds like your resistor was too low for your setup. Did you add
the
> variable resistor (Pot) in series with the 10 ohm resistor or leave
> it out? Sounds like you left it out and pushed it way too hard. If
> you go too low in the resistance you drain the battery down very
fast
> and will get the wheel spinning slow. So what you need to do is put
> that 1k ohms pot in series with the 10 ohm resistor and start it at
> 1k and slowly turn it down until you get what you are looking for
(as
> directed). At first you may not see the wheel move but only here a
> high pitch noise. It all depends on the size of your coil, gap
> between the coil and rotor, voltages in the batteries and magnet
and
> wheel size as to what will be the best resistance to set the pot to.
>
> The resistor being hot means that the ohms were too low. Also if
you
> go bigger with these setups you need to go up to 1, 2 or more watts
> on the trigger resistor. But 1/2W is fine for smaller ones to start
> out with.
>
> It does sound like this is the problem as you started off charging
> and then the charging stopped. The battery probably did not
discharge
> as much as level off after the charging stopped. Running the
circuit
> so that the resistor gets hot very easily results in blowing the
> transistor or even partially blowing it. This is why we need to put
> the transistors on heat sinks and start off by working down from a
> high resistance resistor setting to a lower one.
>
> See if this helps.
>
> Rick
>
> --- In Bedini_Monopole3@yahoogroups.com, bellerian1@ wrote:
> >
> > Hi,
> >
> > Just cuz the coil repels the magnet does not mean it is wound the
> right way.  It can be wound incorrectly and still be wired to the
> transistor to repel the rotor.
> >
> > From the way Rick explained it below it sounds like the stator
> should be wound from the Bottom of the coil form, in a counter
> clockwise fashion, Which when flipped over we end up with the top
> being wound clockwise but with the winding having started at the
> bottom of the coil.   Is that correct Rick?
> >
> > Gene
> >
> > -------------- Original message --------------
> > From: "lerameur" <lerameur@>
> > Hi,
> > Can I send a jpg of my circuit.
> > Anyway I did not solder he wire to the transistor. I used a
> > breadboard, and for the collector I used a clip to hold the
> contact,
> > therefore no soldering,
> > Also soldering on that type of metal is quit hard, the flux do
not
> > stick on the transistor. The batteries are relatively new.
> > 1st test:
> > using a small 12v battery, the voltage quickly drop to 8v , 30
min,
> > then very slowly decreased.
> > 2nd test:
> > using two 6v batteries, the charging battery increased for a
while,
> > then start decreasing very slowly. Initially both batteries where
> at
> > 6.1v. The charging battery ended up to be at 5.45v and the source
> > battery at 4.3v after 6 hours. The motor still spinning though,
but
> > pretty sure it will stop just like with the 12v battery test.
> >
> > The only thing that was hot was the resistor.
> >
> > The coil is wound in the right direction , otherwise it would be
> > attractive to the magnet and not repulsive.
> >
> > ken
> >
>

Gene,

I'm not sure if I can state it clearer than what I have. The only
thing in addition is that when you wind the coil as I have said, you
end up with the wires at around the top which go to the positive of
the primary and the other going to the resistor as shown on the front
page.

Ken,

You need to upload your pictures to this list as that is what I
created it for. Put it in a new folder with your name in the photos
section.

Sounds like your resistor was too low for your setup. Did you add the
variable resistor (Pot) in series with the 10 ohm resistor or leave
it out? Sounds like you left it out and pushed it way too hard. If
you go too low in the resistance you drain the battery down very fast
and will get the wheel spinning slow. So what you need to do is put
that 1k ohms pot in series with the 10 ohm resistor and start it at
1k and slowly turn it down until you get what you are looking for (as
directed). At first you may not see the wheel move but only here a
high pitch noise. It all depends on the size of your coil, gap
between the coil and rotor, voltages in the batteries and magnet and
wheel size as to what will be the best resistance to set the pot to.

The resistor being hot means that the ohms were too low. Also if you
go bigger with these setups you need to go up to 1, 2 or more watts
on the trigger resistor. But 1/2W is fine for smaller ones to start
out with.

It does sound like this is the problem as you started off charging
and then the charging stopped. The battery probably did not discharge
as much as level off after the charging stopped. Running the circuit
so that the resistor gets hot very easily results in blowing the
transistor or even partially blowing it. This is why we need to put
the transistors on heat sinks and start off by working down from a
high resistance resistor setting to a lower one.

See if this helps.

Rick

--- In Bedini_Monopole3@yahoogroups.com, bellerian1@... wrote:
>
> Hi,
>
> Just cuz the coil repels the magnet does not mean it is wound the
right way.  It can be wound incorrectly and still be wired to the
transistor to repel the rotor.
>
> From the way Rick explained it below it sounds like the stator
should be wound from the Bottom of the coil form, in a counter
clockwise fashion, Which when flipped over we end up with the top
being wound clockwise but with the winding having started at the
bottom of the coil.   Is that correct Rick?
>
> Gene
>
> -------------- Original message --------------
> From: "lerameur" <lerameur@...>
> Hi,
> Can I send a jpg of my circuit.
> Anyway I did not solder he wire to the transistor. I used a
> breadboard, and for the collector I used a clip to hold the
contact,
> therefore no soldering,
> Also soldering on that type of metal is quit hard, the flux do not
> stick on the transistor. The batteries are relatively new.
> 1st test:
> using a small 12v battery, the voltage quickly drop to 8v , 30 min,
> then very slowly decreased.
> 2nd test:
> using two 6v batteries, the charging battery increased for a while,
> then start decreasing very slowly. Initially both batteries where
at
> 6.1v. The charging battery ended up to be at 5.45v and the source
> battery at 4.3v after 6 hours. The motor still spinning though, but
> pretty sure it will stop just like with the 12v battery test.
>
> The only thing that was hot was the resistor.
>
> The coil is wound in the right direction , otherwise it would be
> attractive to the magnet and not repulsive.
>
> ken
>

hello,
I just check the winding like you explain and luckily it is wound
correctly. From what you are saying the source battery always
decreases in potential. Therefore we are not getting the Bedini
effect . If I may refer to the girl school project, the wheel kept
spinning for a whole week, and kept it charge, therefor continuoulsy
discharging and charging. Should the source battery do the same ? I
gess I am missing something here...
can someone shed some light on this?

ken

--- In Bedini_Monopole3@yahoogroups.com, bellerian1@... wrote:
>
> Hi,
>
> Just cuz the coil repels the magnet does not mean it is wound the
right way.  It can be wound incorrectly and still be wired to the
transistor to repel the rotor.
>
> From the way Rick explained it below it sounds like the stator
should be wound from the Bottom of the coil form, in a counter
clockwise fashion, Which when flipped over we end up with the top
being wound clockwise but with the winding having started at the
bottom of the coil.   Is that correct Rick?
>
> Gene
>
> -------------- Original message --------------
> From: "lerameur" <lerameur@...>
> Hi,
> Can I send a jpg of my circuit.
> Anyway I did not solder he wire to the transistor. I used a
> breadboard, and for the collector I used a clip to hold the
contact,
> therefore no soldering,
> Also soldering on that type of metal is quit hard, the flux do not
> stick on the transistor. The batteries are relatively new.
> 1st test:
> using a small 12v battery, the voltage quickly drop to 8v , 30 min,
> then very slowly decreased.
> 2nd test:
> using two 6v batteries, the charging battery increased for a while,
> then start decreasing very slowly. Initially both batteries where
at
> 6.1v. The charging battery ended up to be at 5.45v and the source
> battery at 4.3v after 6 hours. The motor still spinning though, but
> pretty sure it will stop just like with the 12v battery test.
>
> The only thing that was hot was the resistor.
>
> The coil is wound in the right direction , otherwise it would be
> attractive to the magnet and not repulsive.
>
> ken
>
> --- In Bedini_Monopole3@yahoogroups.com, "rickfriedrich"
> <rickfriedrich@> wrote:
> >
> > Ken,
> >
> > Good to see you finally got it going. You must have something not
> > hooked up correctly or have really bad batteries or have blown a
> part
> > (like a transistor) for the charging battery to decrease. It can
> only
> > increase with this setup. I could not see all your connections in
> your
> > pictures to know how it was hooked up. If you have cooked your
> > transistor in assembly it would be because you got it too hot in
> > soldering it as can happen if you hold it too long on the
contacts.
> > Otherwise, all it takes is to cross some wires or contacts and
you
> can
> > blow the transistor. If you have a $50 or more multimeter it
should
> > have a transistor testor with instructions to show you if your
> > transistor is still working.
> >
> > Make sure you check the temperature of the coil when running. If
> you
> > have no temp gauge then feel with your hand. It should not be hot.
> >
> > Make sure your coil is wound in the right direction and wires are
> > connected to the right places. Start winding at the side that
will
> be
> > on the other side of the coil away from the magnets. Wind COUNTER-
> > CLOCKWISE. That first end (bottom if the coil is under the wheel)
> > connects as follows: the smaller trigger wire goes to the ground
> > (negative) of the primary battery, the bigger wire goes to the
> > transistors Case or Collector. The other end of those wires
should
> end
> > up around the top where the magnets on the rotor are. The big
wire
> goes
> > to the positive of the primary and the negative of the charging
> > battery. The smaller trigger wire goes to the resistor or pot or
> bulb
> > depending on which is last in the series. Make sure your coil is
> wound
> > in this way and don't worry about what others may have said.
> >
> > Hope this helps.
> >
> > Rick
> >
> > >
> > > Hi,
> > >
> > > I finished the setup. I am using coat hanger wire instead of
the
> > > welding rods, (they are their way ) The wheel is rotain, but i
am
> not
> > > gating much energy out, both batteries are slowly decreasing in
> > > voltage, and after a few hours stops.
> > > any idea?
> > > ken
> > >
> >
>
>
>
>
>
>
>
>
>
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>

-------------- Original message --------------
From: "lerameur" <lerameur@...>
Hi,
Can I send a jpg of my circuit.
Anyway I did not solder he wire to the transistor. I used a
breadboard, and for the collector I used a clip to hold the contact,
therefore no soldering,
Also soldering on that type of metal is quit hard, the flux do not
stick on the transistor. The batteries are relatively new.
1st test:
using a small 12v battery, the voltage quickly drop to 8v , 30 min,
then very slowly decreased.
2nd test:
using two 6v batteries, the charging battery increased for a while,
then start decreasing very slowly. Initially both batteries where at
6.1v. The charging battery ended up to be at 5.45v and the source
battery at 4.3v after 6 hours. The motor still spinning though, but
pretty sure it will stop just like with the 12v batt ery test.

The only thing that was hot was the resistor.

The coil is wound in the right direction , otherwise it would be
attractive to the magnet and not repulsive.

ken

--- In Bedini_Monopole3@yahoogroups.com, "rickfriedrich"
<rickfriedrich@...> wrote:
>
> Ken,
>
> Good to see you finally got it going. You must have something not
> hooked up correctly or have really bad batteries or have blown a
part
> (like a transistor) for the charging battery to decrease. It can
only
> increase with this setup. I could not see all your connections in
your
> pictures to know how it was hooked up. If you have cooked your
> transistor in assembly it would be because you got it too hot in
> soldering it as can happen if you hold it too long on the contacts.
> Otherwise, all it takes is to cross some wires or contacts and you
can
> blow the transistor. If you hav e a $50 or more multimeter it should
> have a transistor testor with instructions to show you if your
> transistor is still working.
>
> Make sure you check the temperature of the coil when running. If
you
> have no temp gauge then feel with your hand. It should not be hot.
>
> Make sure your coil is wound in the right direction and wires are
> connected to the right places. Start winding at the side that will
be
> on the other side of the coil away from the magnets. Wind COUNTER-
> CLOCKWISE. That first end (bottom if the coil is under the wheel)
> connects as follows: the smaller trigger wire goes to the ground
> (negative) of the primary battery, the bigger wire goes to the
> transistors Case or Collector. The other end of those wires should
end
> up around the top where the magnets on the rotor are. The big wire
goes
> to the positive of the primary and the nega tive of the charging
> battery. The smaller trigger wire goes to the resistor or pot or
bulb
> depending on which is last in the series. Make sure your coil is
wound
> in this way and don't worry about what others may have said.
>
> Hope this helps.
>
> Rick
>
> >
> > Hi,
> >
> > I finished the setup. I am using coat hanger wire instead of the
> > welding rods, (they are their way ) The wheel is rotain, but i am
not
> > gating much energy out, both batteries are slowly decreasing in
> > voltage, and after a few hours stops.
> > any idea?
> > ken
> >
>

Hi,
Can I send a jpg of my circuit.
Anyway I did not solder he wire to the transistor. I used a
breadboard, and for the collector I used a clip to hold the contact,
therefore no soldering,
Also soldering on that type of metal is quit hard, the flux do not
stick on the transistor. The batteries are relatively new.
1st test:
using a small 12v battery, the voltage quickly drop to 8v , 30 min,
then very slowly decreased.
2nd test:
using two 6v batteries, the charging battery increased for a while,
then start decreasing very slowly. Initially both batteries where at
6.1v. The charging battery ended up to be at 5.45v and the source
battery at 4.3v after 6 hours. The motor still spinning though, but
pretty sure it will stop just like with the 12v battery test.

The only thing that was hot was the resistor.

The coil is wound in the right direction , otherwise it would be
attractive to the magnet and not repulsive.

ken

--- In Bedini_Monopole3@yahoogroups.com, "rickfriedrich"
<rickfriedrich@...> wrote:
>
> Ken,
>
> Good to see you finally got it going. You must have something not
> hooked up correctly or have really bad batteries or have blown a
part
> (like a transistor) for the charging battery to decrease. It can
only
> increase with this setup. I could not see all your connections in
your
> pictures to know how it was hooked up. If you have cooked your
> transistor in assembly it would be because you got it too hot in
> soldering it as can happen if you hold it too long on the contacts.
> Otherwise, all it takes is to cross some wires or contacts and you
can
> blow the transistor. If you have a $50 or more multimeter it should
> have a transistor testor with instructions to show you if your
> transistor is still working.
>
> Make sure you check the temperature of the coil when running. If
you
> have no temp gauge then feel with your hand. It should not be hot.
>
> Make sure your coil is wound in the right direction and wires are
> connected to the right places. Start winding at the side that will
be
> on the other side of the coil away from the magnets. Wind COUNTER-
> CLOCKWISE. That first end (bottom if the coil is under the wheel)
> connects as follows: the smaller trigger wire goes to the ground
> (negative) of the primary battery, the bigger wire goes to the
> transistors Case or Collector. The other end of those wires should
end
> up around the top where the magnets on the rotor are. The big wire
goes
> to the positive of the primary and the negative of the charging
> battery. The smaller trigger wire goes to the resistor or pot or
bulb
> depending on which is last in the series. Make sure your coil is
wound
> in this way and don't worry about what others may have said.
>
> Hope this helps.
>
> Rick
>
> >
> > Hi,
> >
> > I finished the setup. I am using coat hanger wire instead of the
> > welding rods, (they are their way ) The wheel is rotain, but i am
not
> > gating much energy out, both batteries are slowly decreasing in
> > voltage, and after a few hours stops.
> > any idea?
> > ken
> >
>

Ken,

Good to see you finally got it going. You must have something not
hooked up correctly or have really bad batteries or have blown a part
(like a transistor) for the charging battery to decrease. It can only
increase with this setup. I could not see all your connections in your
pictures to know how it was hooked up. If you have cooked your
transistor in assembly it would be because you got it too hot in
soldering it as can happen if you hold it too long on the contacts.
Otherwise, all it takes is to cross some wires or contacts and you can
blow the transistor. If you have a $50 or more multimeter it should
have a transistor testor with instructions to show you if your
transistor is still working.

Make sure you check the temperature of the coil when running. If you
have no temp gauge then feel with your hand. It should not be hot.

Make sure your coil is wound in the right direction and wires are
connected to the right places. Start winding at the side that will be
on the other side of the coil away from the magnets. Wind COUNTER-
CLOCKWISE. That first end (bottom if the coil is under the wheel)
connects as follows: the smaller trigger wire goes to the ground
(negative) of the primary battery, the bigger wire goes to the
transistors Case or Collector. The other end of those wires should end
up around the top where the magnets on the rotor are. The big wire goes
to the positive of the primary and the negative of the charging
battery. The smaller trigger wire goes to the resistor or pot or bulb
depending on which is last in the series. Make sure your coil is wound
in this way and don't worry about what others may have said.

Hope this helps.

Rick

>
> Hi,
>
> I finished the setup. I am using coat hanger wire instead of the
> welding rods, (they are their way ) The wheel is rotain, but i am not
> gating much energy out, both batteries are slowly decreasing in
> voltage, and after a few hours stops.
> any idea?
> ken
>

Hi,

I finished the setup. I am using coat hanger wire instead of the
welding rods, (they are their way ) The wheel is rotain, but i am not
gating much energy out, both batteries are slowly decreasing in
voltage, and after a few hours stops.
any idea?
ken

Sometimes people send emails to the moderator instead of the list.
Please post your questions to the list. Here was one:

"Can the rotor (wheel) be horizontal instead of vertical?"

See the following picture on the front of the second list:

http://groups.yahoo.com/group/Bedini_Monopole2

I find it easier to work with a vertical wheel setup but I have had
several horizontal ones as above shown. The thing is that if you don't
have supports on both sides then it can wabble or put too much strain
on one bearing. In my above setup it is a ceiling fan so that is how I
have it. I'll post a picture of it in the photos section.

Rick

Hello,

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Hello,

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Hello,

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Hello,

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