RG,

A few things... heating soil up with heat cables is not like the sun shining
upon moistened soils and could very well reduce soil life activity and kick
into play a fair amount of cationic activity in the soil by stimulating a
fair amount of ammonia production during times when you will want to have
nitrate for plant growth. To me, that's a high risk item. It takes a while
for the sun to warm soils and so we will have a natural anionic growth stage
occurring. After that growth stage and the soils warm up, there is a switch
to ammonia production which is cationic in the soils. You might get better
use out of your heat cables by using them only with plants you want
switching to cationic and keeping the cables turned off until you have
gotten into the anionic growth stages.

What's the ergs of your foliar spray? If they are too low, you have a high
risk of not getting the action you are looking for. Also, are you adjusting
your foliar spray to be anionic during plant growth and cationic during
blossom development and fruit set and development? Keep in mind that some
plants need to have foliar sprays stay at anionic like leaf lettuce or they
will bolt fast and go to seed. Depending upon what you are growing, you may
have a need to do anionic or cationic sprays on different plants at the same
time. Isn't that ducky? Farmers won't have a problem doing this because
they have larger stands of crops that would require anionic sprays or
cationic sprays. But a backyard gardener may have some plants he will want
to keep anionic and the rest he will want to switch from anionic to cationic
after growth is in place.

There needs to be a significant difference in ergs in a foliar spray going
onto plants than what is in the soil around those plants so a large
potential difference is created between the leaves and the soil around the
roots. By setting the potential difference at around 1,000 ergs, the effect
will draw nutrients out of the soil and up into the plants. But, if soil
nitrogen levels are too high (nitrogen is an electrolyte) and pH is too low,
you will get a rapid movement of energy that could clobber your plants.

We are working on a product we are calling "Microbe food" which will be
anionic or cationic and can be added to our microbe tea after the tea is
brewed. When the tea is diluted properly, we want the ergs to be right
around 1200. If we want to support good plant growth, then we want to have
anionic conditions in the soil and in the foliar spray. If we want to
support buds, flower, seed, and fruit development, then we will want to have
cationic conditions in the soil and in the foliar spray.

What are you using as food for bacteria and fungi in the soils? If the food
is not there to occupy the bacteria applications you are making, then
nutrients will get tied up by the bacteria. With your soil ergs at 540, it's
obvious that nutrients are not being tied up.

Hopefully, this discussion above will help and not lead you astray.

Nature works kind of like this: cool soils, anionic plant growth with
nitrate nitrogen supporting that growth; as the soils warm up, ammonia is
produced by bacteria if the organic materials are there and the right kind
of bacteria are there and a switch is made to cationic soils and bud,
flower, seed, and fruit development. Foliar sprays work best during the
nitrate anionic plant growth stage if they are also anionic and 1,000 ergs
difference exists between the leaves and the soil around the roots.

Where nature falls apart in this is when the weather remains cool and the
soils don't warm up. The plants and soils can stay anionic. We can change
this by developing cationic foliar sprays and soil drenches, but we are
working against nature which is trying to hang onto being anionic because
the weather is staying cool. So, we may have to increase the frequency of
our foliar sprays to compensate because the soils are not warming up so
ammonia production came be done by the bacteria working on organic materials
in the soil. Even when we are able to make the anionic to cationic switch,
if we don't get enough direct sun on the plants some of them may not ripen
very well. This switch is best coordinated when nature makes the switch
rather than trying to force the issue too early.

Best Regards,
Thomas Giannou
http://www.tandjenterprises.com


-----Original Message-----
From: BrixTalk@yahoogroups.com [mailto:BrixTalk@yahoogroups.com] On Behalf
Of ohhomagoo@...
Sent: Monday, July 13, 2009 10:49 AM
To: brixtalk@yahoogroups.com
Subject: RE: [BrixTalk] Ocean Trace


thomas, you misunderstand, i did do everything exactly as you have suggested
in the lower part of this email exactly as described in nourishment home
grown and mainline farming. the ocean trace is only a foliar spray at 1 oz
per qt. of spray once a week. all ca. srp gypsum planters 2 were followed
exactly. the ergs have come down a lot since we last talked. today i just
checked them, 590, down from 2540 on 5-12-09. the soil life should be
terrific. i've been adding the microbe tea since december. i had heat cables
turned on to keep it warm.none of this is "high risk". rg



To: BrixTalk@yahoogroups.com
From: thomas@...
Date: Mon, 13 Jul 2009 00:41:30 -0700
Subject: RE: [BrixTalk] Ocean Trace







RG,

You have purchased only our soil life products and yucca. That doesn't
represent our system. After looking at some of your recent messages to the
list, I am wondering how you have gotten on a course of using high risk
products on your soils? For example, putting sea minerals (those are salts
by the way) onto your soils may significantly decrease the soil life present
in the soils. People have been talking for a long time about the need to
add minerals back into the soils. I agree, but not at levels that will
reduce the soil life. Today, an even bigger problem is starting to surface.
the presence of soil life in our agricultural soils is dropping fast. You
can put all the minerals you want into the soil, but if there's little to no
soil life present, most of those minerals are not getting into your plants.

One thing I feel fortunate to have avoided with our method of growing plants
into excellent brix levels the first year, is to not try a bunch of
different kinds of products that don't work and were never utilized by Dr
Reams. I have avoided those dead ends by studying through the works of Dr
Reams and his students who have produced literature. Keep working with
Lime, SRP, Gypsum, and learn more about developing the hyperactive bacteria
system that needs to be in place so the SRP and other minerals can be
processed into the plants. Maintain the ratios of calcium, phosphate,
potassium, sulfur, iron, and nitrate and ammonia nitrogen's and the other
trace minerals. at least, make sure they are present at reasonable levels.
Build the organic material content up in the soils so the gel formed from
the reaction of lime and soft rock phosphate well stay up near the surface
and will help keep the minerals from dropping down in the soils.

The past three years I have used Beddoes / Reams Lime, SRP, and Gypsum
recipe with our other products and fresh potting soil or compost that had
never been treated previously and obtained excellent brix levels the first
year on broccoli, peas, green beans, tomatoes, red cabbage, celery, green
cabbage, cantaloupe and a few others. Our Pears, Blackberries, and
Raspberries growing in the ground have been held at excellent brix levels
for several years. The Raspberries have been excellent brix for the past 12
years (14-19 brix). Last year, two other locations in my area also had high
brix results using our methods. Dr Beddoes Lime, SRP, and Gypsum recipe
follows Dr. Reams ratio's and when I increase the nutrient density I have
seen the brix levels climb even higher along with faster plant growth and
higher yields. Those things go right along with what Dr Reams stated we
should expect to achieve in the rules he formulated and are written in the
front of the book, "Mainline Farming for Century 21, Lessons in Reams Method
Agronomy by Charles Walters" and both of Dr. Beddoe's books.

Best Regards,

Thomas Giannou

http://www.tandjenterprises.com

_____

From: BrixTalk@yahoogroups.com [mailto:BrixTalk@yahoogroups.com] On Behalf
Of ohhomagoo@...
Sent: Sunday, July 12, 2009 4:02 PM
To: brixtalk@yahoogroups.com
Subject: RE: [BrixTalk] Ocean Trace

my 3rd response today. last year i tried a very similar product called sea
solution p and f[ planting and foliar amendment]. when i was researching
ocean trace minerals i crossed paths with rex's page here. this page is by
far the most useful source i've found yet. any way the sea solution didn't
raise my brix any really[ mayby 1 or 2 points]. when i talked with the sales
rep about their product he wouldn't say anything about raising brix, saying
only there's a lot more to hi brix that trace minerals. i bought a quart of
each and am playing with it again this year. i'm convinced that nothing is
going to significantly raise brix levels if the soil is not ballanced. i've
tried thomas's system which is a modified beddoe formula and got absolutely
no where in the first year. i think all the sites listed here in the past
month will only give a good start to high brix ag at best and i would like
to try each one of them but no space. i've tried to ballance using a dilute
acid soil test and a book linked to this site to calculate the necessary
additions and got no where. i think what is left is to try jon at i ag lab,
bite the bullet and pay whatever the cost, and get it done asap. i hope to
send this fall's soil sample tomorrow instead of later. there's something
missing in my program and mayby he can find it.
i tried to eliminate his fees and the 3 year lag time to high brix and got
no where. sherlock holmes said that whenever you've tried everything and not
found the solution, what's left is the obvious. rg

To: BrixTalk@yahoogroup <mailto:BrixTalk%40yahoogroups.com> s.com
From: cjohnson143@ <mailto:cjohnson143%40woh.rr.com> woh.rr.com
Date: Sun, 12 Jul 2009 14:56:22 -0400
Subject: [BrixTalk] Ocean Trace

Anyone familiar with these products
http://www.ag- <http://www.ag-usa.net/SeaPro.htm> usa.net/SeaPro.htm - High
brix mentioned in the newsletter.

Derived From: Magnesium Chloride, Soybean Oil, Lauric Acid, Myristic Acid,
Palm Oil

I think it needs to go with something like this, Ocean Trace, which is ocean
minerals, minus most of the NaCl.
http://www.ag- <http://www.ag-usa.net/OT.htm> usa.net/OT.htm

There's a link to High Brix info on the home page http://www.ag-
<http://www.ag-usa.net/index.html> usa.net/index.html

There's a link on that page to this water treatment that also mentions high
brix
http://www.ag- <http://www.ag-usa.hexahedron999.com/> usa.hexahedron999.com/

Peace,
Kris

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