Doug,
Still looking for a ina103 modded DI/O?  I built 3 of them when I
first did the mod and lent them out to various friends.  I just
learned that one of them had been sitting on a shelf for the last year
or so and thus I asked them to send it back.  If you're interested, I
could send it your way once I get it back and make sure it's still
working.  Besides the INA103 output stage, it's got my standard list
of mods - schottky diodes, upgraded electrolytics, high voltage power
supply (for tube) removed, upgraded regulators, A/D circuitry stripped
out, BNC input with 75ohm resistor, digital input transformer, good
output RCA jacks, upgraded power transformer, and probably some other
stuff I don't remember.  Note, it has no output filtering at all, so
it works best with a tube line stage or a transformer volume control.
  Some solid state line stages don't like dealing with the ultrasonic
stuff that's not been filtered out.

---Gary
--- In DIOmods@yahoogroups.com, "sedond" <sedond@...> wrote:
>
> i am considering trying a di/o based upon the ina103 mod, but i no
> longer am sure i wanna diy. anyone willing to do a full-monty mod for
> me, based upon the ina103, if i supply a stock (or awreddy
> conwentionally modded) di/o? :>) i am willing to consider trading one
> of my two conwentionally modded di/o's in exchange, or cash... or
> buy/trade for an awreddy-modded ina103 di/o?
>
> thanks,
>
> doug s.
>

I Have a Benchmark Dac1 here that I rented for the week.. I thought
I'd try it my self as I want to upgrade from the dio. I've been
running my dio lately off my pc's external SoundBlaster live card,
directly feeding my Dynaudio (BM6A) powered monitors. (I'm in need of
a proper volume control:P ) anywayz  the point is That review pretty
much says it all with: " hoping for more from the DAC1. Maybe an ease
that is more analogue in nature "    dissappointingly flat and dry
sounding.  What the dio is good at the Dac1 sucks at..
With my Dio slightly Eq'd to calm the bright top end.. I prefer it to
the Dac1.(much more organic) . oh-well.... no volume control for me
yet.. :(






--- In DIOmods@yahoogroups.com, Michael Amster <mamster@...> wrote:
>
> I have to agree with Bob.  I tried the INA103 output and the
transformer
> output and for me the dynamics of the INA103 just feel more like
what I
> want to hear - they do dynamics really well.
>
> Bob McNeice wrote:
>
> >It seems that most of the Chinese DAC's are some type of NOS chip.
They do sound nice on simple music, but once things start getting
complicated or big and dynamic I've found that my DI/O keeps things
in perspective and uncongested. Now obviously I haven't tried them
all, so please correct me if someone knows of one that keeps that
ease in place. I've also found that cap coupled outputs, although
smooth sounding, doesn't have the dynamic of op amp based output
stages, like the DI/O.
> >
> >Enjoy,
> >Bob
> >Sent via BlackBerry from Cingular Wireless
> >
> >-----Original Message-----
> >From: "sedond" <dsedon@...>
> >Date: Mon, 28 Aug 2006 15:55:59
> >To:DIOmods@yahoogroups.com
> >Subject: [DIOmods] Re: DI/O versus DAC1(Benchmark)
> >
> >recently, a buddy of mine purchased a bolder cables modded di/o on
my
> > recommendation. he also compared it to the benchmark, & he's kept
the
> > di/o. he also sold an eastern electric minimax cdp after getting
the
> > di/o. i am still wondering about the mytrek dac, as well as a few
> > reasonably priced chinese dacs f/s on ebay...
> >
> > doug s.
> > --- In DIOmods@yahoogroups: <mailto:DIOmods%
40yahoogroups.com> .com, "PeAK" <peakrchau@> wrote:
> > >
> > >
> > > Seems like the DI/O still stands up to the current "status
quo"...
> > > using it archive LPs is a project that is still on the shelf.
> > >
> > > http://db.audioasyl: <http://db.audioasylum.com/cgi/m.mpl?
forum=digital&amp;n=121443> um.com/cgi/m.mpl?forum=digital&n=121443
> > >
> > > PeAK
> > >
> >
> >
> >
> >
> >
> >Yahoo! Groups Links
> >
> >
> >
> >
> >
> >
> >
> >
>

hi chris,

do a google search on: "cheater plug" uk

you should find enough links there to more thoroughly explain... they
basically eliminate the grounding pin, which actually should be done
only as a last resort, as the component won't be grounded. but the
system should still be grounded, as the ground is being made by
another component plugged into the one that's "cheating", which is why
you are getting hum, thru a ground loop, when everything is grounded...

hope this helps...

doug s.
--- In DIOmods@yahoogroups.com, "jtaytay2000" <jtaytay2000@...> wrote:
>
>
> Thanks for the reply Doug. The mensa modded DI/O works fine in other
> systems where integrated amps are used. No hum/noise. I tried it in
> two different setups with the Trends Audio TA10's biamped (ie just
> the cd transport and speakers changed. In both cases, there was the
> same loud hum.
>
> I'm interested in the 'cheater' plug suggestion. I'm based in the Uk
> and have never heard of a cheater plug? I'm also don't know what
> constitutes 'lifting a ground'. Can I make my own 'cheater' plug or
> anyone know if they can be bought in the UK? Also, any other easy
> ways to 'lift a ground' worth trying.
>
> Chris
>
> --- In DIOmods@yahoogroups.com, "sedond" <dsedon@> wrote:
> >
> > hi,
> >
> > have you tried the mensa di/o in another system to see if it hums
> > there, as well? also, in the trends system, have you tried using
> > "cheater" plugs on any of your three-pronged power cords? sometimes
> > lifting a ground on a component will eliminate a ground-loop hum,
> > which it seems you have got, w/the mensa di/o.
> >
> > doug s.
> > --- In DIOmods@yahoogroups.com, "jtaytay2000" <jtaytay2000@> wrote:
> > >
> > > I've got two ART Dios, one unmodded and the other full mensa mods
> by
> > > Boulder Cables. I've been setting up a biamped setup in two
> systems.
> > > The setup with the unmodded one works fine. The setup with the
> modded
> > > one has a loud hum.I've eliminated other things and swapped the
> DACs
> > > and the hum disappears when the unmodded one is inserted.
> > >
> > > Any ideas why this happens with the modded one and how I can get
> rid
> > > of the hum with the biamped setup? I'd really like to hear the
> sound
> > > quality with the modded DAC when biamped.
> > >
> > > The way I've biamped is a bit unusual. I'm using a couple of
> trends
> > > audio TA10 amps, no pre-amp. I use phono adapters to split/double
> the
> > > analogue out from the DACs. The two 'rights out' go to the left
> and
> > > right inputs on one TA10, then I biwire that amp to my right
> speaker.
> > > Likewise the left signal out (as split). So the right and left
> > > channel of one amp is providing separate power to the higher or
> lower
> > > frequencies of one speaker.
> > >
> > > I'm hoping there's an easy work around to the hum problem. I also
> > > wonder if its at all connnected to the problem where the DAC
> drops
> > > the signal sometimes when changing CD - (this only happens with
> my
> > > modded DAC). I can turn the CD transport off and on, and hear a
> pop
> > > when the modded DAC has regained the signal. Is it the hum earth
> > > related?
> > >
> > > Any help would be appreciated.
> > >
> > > thanks
> > >
> > > Chris
> > >
> >
>

hi chris,

do a google search on: "cheater plug" uk

you should find enough links there to more thoroughly explain...  they
basically eliminate the grounding pin, which actually should be done
only as a last resort, as the component won't be grounded.  but the
system should still be grounded, as the ground is being made by
another component plugged into the one that's "cheating", which is why
  you are getting hum, thru a ground loop, when everything is grounded...

hope this helps...

doug s.
--- In DIOmods@yahoogroups.com, "jtaytay2000" <jtaytay2000@...> wrote:
>
>
> Thanks for the reply Doug. The mensa modded DI/O works fine in other
> systems where integrated amps are used. No hum/noise. I tried it in
> two different setups with the Trends Audio TA10's biamped (ie just
> the cd transport and speakers changed. In both cases, there was the
> same loud hum.
>
> I'm interested in the 'cheater' plug suggestion. I'm based in the Uk
> and have never heard of a cheater plug? I'm also don't know what
> constitutes 'lifting a ground'. Can I make my own 'cheater' plug or
> anyone know if they can be bought in the UK? Also, any other easy
> ways to 'lift a ground' worth trying.
>
> Chris
>
> --- In DIOmods@yahoogroups.com, "sedond" <dsedon@> wrote:
> >
> > hi,
> >
> > have you tried the mensa di/o in another system to see if it hums
> > there, as well?  also, in the trends system, have you tried using
> > "cheater" plugs on any of your three-pronged power cords?  sometimes
> > lifting a ground on a component will eliminate a ground-loop hum,
> > which it seems you have got, w/the mensa di/o.
> >
> > doug s.
> > --- In DIOmods@yahoogroups.com, "jtaytay2000" <jtaytay2000@> wrote:
> > >
> > > I've got two ART Dios, one unmodded and the other full mensa mods
> by
> > > Boulder Cables. I've been setting up a biamped setup in two
> systems.
> > > The setup with the unmodded one works fine. The setup with the
> modded
> > > one has a loud hum.I've eliminated other things and swapped the
> DACs
> > > and the hum disappears when the unmodded one is inserted.
> > >
> > > Any ideas why this happens with the modded one and how I can get
> rid
> > > of the hum with the biamped setup? I'd really like to hear the
> sound
> > > quality with the modded DAC when biamped.
> > >
> > > The way I've biamped is a bit unusual. I'm using a couple of
> trends
> > > audio TA10 amps, no pre-amp. I use phono adapters to split/double
> the
> > > analogue out from the DACs. The two 'rights out' go to the left
> and
> > > right inputs on one TA10, then I biwire that amp to my right
> speaker.
> > > Likewise the left signal out (as split). So the right and left
> > > channel of one amp is providing separate power to the higher or
> lower
> > > frequencies of one speaker.
> > >
> > > I'm hoping there's an easy work around to the hum problem. I also
> > > wonder if its at all connnected to the problem where the DAC
> drops
> > > the signal sometimes when changing CD - (this only happens with
> my
> > > modded DAC). I can turn the CD transport off and on, and hear a
> pop
> > > when the modded DAC has regained the signal. Is it the hum earth
> > > related?
> > >
> > > Any help would be appreciated.
> > >
> > > thanks
> > >
> > > Chris
> > >
> >
>

Thanks for the reply Doug. The mensa modded DI/O works fine in other
systems where integrated amps are used. No hum/noise. I tried it in
two different setups with the Trends Audio TA10's biamped (ie just
the cd transport and speakers changed. In both cases, there was the
same loud hum.

I'm interested in the 'cheater' plug suggestion. I'm based in the Uk
and have never heard of a cheater plug? I'm also don't know what
constitutes 'lifting a ground'. Can I make my own 'cheater' plug or
anyone know if they can be bought in the UK? Also, any other easy
ways to 'lift a ground' worth trying.

Chris

--- In DIOmods@yahoogroups.com, "sedond" <dsedon@...> wrote:
>
> hi,
>
> have you tried the mensa di/o in another system to see if it hums
> there, as well?  also, in the trends system, have you tried using
> "cheater" plugs on any of your three-pronged power cords?  sometimes
> lifting a ground on a component will eliminate a ground-loop hum,
> which it seems you have got, w/the mensa di/o.
>
> doug s.
> --- In DIOmods@yahoogroups.com, "jtaytay2000" <jtaytay2000@> wrote:
> >
> > I've got two ART Dios, one unmodded and the other full mensa mods
by
> > Boulder Cables. I've been setting up a biamped setup in two
systems.
> > The setup with the unmodded one works fine. The setup with the
modded
> > one has a loud hum.I've eliminated other things and swapped the
DACs
> > and the hum disappears when the unmodded one is inserted.
> >
> > Any ideas why this happens with the modded one and how I can get
rid
> > of the hum with the biamped setup? I'd really like to hear the
sound
> > quality with the modded DAC when biamped.
> >
> > The way I've biamped is a bit unusual. I'm using a couple of
trends
> > audio TA10 amps, no pre-amp. I use phono adapters to split/double
the
> > analogue out from the DACs. The two 'rights out' go to the left
and
> > right inputs on one TA10, then I biwire that amp to my right
speaker.
> > Likewise the left signal out (as split). So the right and left
> > channel of one amp is providing separate power to the higher or
lower
> > frequencies of one speaker.
> >
> > I'm hoping there's an easy work around to the hum problem. I also
> > wonder if its at all connnected to the problem where the DAC
drops
> > the signal sometimes when changing CD - (this only happens with
my
> > modded DAC). I can turn the CD transport off and on, and hear a
pop
> > when the modded DAC has regained the signal. Is it the hum earth
> > related?
> >
> > Any help would be appreciated.
> >
> > thanks
> >
> > Chris
> >
>

i am considering trying a di/o based upon the ina103 mod, but i no
longer am sure i wanna diy. anyone willing to do a full-monty mod for
me, based upon the ina103, if i supply a stock (or awreddy
conwentionally modded) di/o? :>) i am willing to consider trading one
of my two conwentionally modded di/o's in exchange, or cash... or
buy/trade for an awreddy-modded ina103 di/o?

thanks,

doug s.

interesting, i have emailed them for info.  do you think yours would
improve w/rakk's active tubed output stage?  i have also considered
the musiland md-10 dac, & the mytek stereo 96 dac, but i am still
using a modded art di/o.

i would also consider using a di/o based upon the ina103 mod, but i no
longer am sure i wanna diy.  anyone willing to do a full-monty mod for
me, based upon the ina103, if i supply a stock di/o?  :>)  i am
willing to consider trading one of my two conwentionally modded di/o's
in exchange, or cash...  or buy/trade for an awreddy-modded ina103 di/o?

doug s.

--- In DIOmods@yahoogroups.com, "kstagger88" <k_stagger@...> wrote:
>
> I'm using the RAKK DAC - transformer coupled PCM1794 available from
> K&K Audio. Best digital I've ever heard...
> http://kevinsgarage.50megs.com/pages/rakk.html
>
> Before that I used the Monica DAC ... which was a little
> softer/undynamic compared to the DI/O.
>

hi,

have you tried the mensa di/o in another system to see if it hums
there, as well?  also, in the trends system, have you tried using
"cheater" plugs on any of your three-pronged power cords?  sometimes
lifting a ground on a component will eliminate a ground-loop hum,
which it seems you have got, w/the mensa di/o.

doug s.
--- In DIOmods@yahoogroups.com, "jtaytay2000" <jtaytay2000@...> wrote:
>
> I've got two ART Dios, one unmodded and the other full mensa mods by
> Boulder Cables. I've been setting up a biamped setup in two systems.
> The setup with the unmodded one works fine. The setup with the modded
> one has a loud hum.I've eliminated other things and swapped the DACs
> and the hum disappears when the unmodded one is inserted.
>
> Any ideas why this happens with the modded one and how I can get rid
> of the hum with the biamped setup? I'd really like to hear the sound
> quality with the modded DAC when biamped.
>
> The way I've biamped is a bit unusual. I'm using a couple of trends
> audio TA10 amps, no pre-amp. I use phono adapters to split/double the
> analogue out from the DACs. The two 'rights out' go to the left and
> right inputs on one TA10, then I biwire that amp to my right speaker.
> Likewise the left signal out (as split). So the right and left
> channel of one amp is providing separate power to the higher or lower
> frequencies of one speaker.
>
> I'm hoping there's an easy work around to the hum problem. I also
> wonder if its at all connnected to the problem where the DAC drops
> the signal sometimes when changing CD - (this only happens with my
> modded DAC). I can turn the CD transport off and on, and hear a pop
> when the modded DAC has regained the signal. Is it the hum earth
> related?
>
> Any help would be appreciated.
>
> thanks
>
> Chris
>

I've got two ART Dios, one unmodded and the other full mensa mods by
Boulder Cables. I've been setting up a biamped setup in two systems.
The setup with the unmodded one works fine. The setup with the modded
one has a loud hum.I've eliminated other things and swapped the DACs
and the hum disappears when the unmodded one is inserted.

Any ideas why this happens with the modded one and how I can get rid
of the hum with the biamped setup? I'd really like to hear the sound
quality with the modded DAC when biamped.

The way I've biamped is a bit unusual. I'm using a couple of trends
audio TA10 amps, no pre-amp. I use phono adapters to split/double the
analogue out from the DACs. The two 'rights out' go to the left and
right inputs on one TA10, then I biwire that amp to my right speaker.
Likewise the left signal out (as split). So the right and left
channel of one amp is providing separate power to the higher or lower
frequencies of one speaker.

I'm hoping there's an easy work around to the hum problem. I also
wonder if its at all connnected to the problem where the DAC drops
the signal sometimes when changing CD - (this only happens with my
modded DAC). I can turn the CD transport off and on, and hear a pop
when the modded DAC has regained the signal. Is it the hum earth
related?

Any help would be appreciated.

thanks

Chris

Thanks for the reply R. I did wonder if I'd misunderstood this.
Before posting, I checked as I'd thought that perhaps the tube was
only relevant to A-D conversion. I thought I'd confirmed, as I
understood, that you can feed a digital signal in and out of the ART
Dio and add warmth to the resulting analogue signal out, but I think
I misunderstood a 'loop though'.

However, this does open a can of worms for me and my 'hifi' hearing.
When I first got the Art Dio, I tried it as a D-A converter, with the
tube in, and adjusted the tube warmth and, to my hearing, I heard the
sound change and become 'warmer'/bloated as I adjusted it. It seemed
pretty evident to my ears and those of someone else listening. So
either I heard some real change or (oh no) my hifi hearing is as
psycho-acoustically biased as the next person.


JT



--- In DIOmods@yahoogroups.com, Robin Bowes <robin-lists@...> wrote:
>
> jtaytay2000 wrote:
> >
> >
> > I'm interested in trying a different tube in my ART Dio. I've been
> > using it for a long time, without the supplied tube, as everyone
> > advises, but, I'm wondering if anyone has gone for a different
approach
> > and tried changing the tube for a different and perhaps better
suited
> > one. I'm prompted by re-reading an article in Hifi World (back in
Feb
> > 2006)where they tried different tubes on a Shanling CD T80 and
found
> > the tube type could have a dramatic impact on the sound. This set
me
> > wondering whether the ART Dio was just better without a tube per
se, or
> > was it more down to the type of tube chosen. Some of the
descriptions
> > of ill suited tubes, given in the HFW article, could equally
apply to
> > the ART Dio with its stock tube, so a different tube, just might
do the
> > trick.
> >
> > If you have tried different tubes, could you let me know.
>
> The tube is only used for AD conversion, not for DA. So, you'd only
see
> (hear?) any difference if using the DIO as an AD convertor.
>
> R.
>

jtaytay2000 wrote:
>
>
> I'm interested in trying a different tube in my ART Dio. I've been
> using it for a long time, without the supplied tube, as everyone
> advises, but, I'm wondering if anyone has gone for a different approach
> and tried changing the tube for a different and perhaps better suited
> one. I'm prompted by re-reading an article in Hifi World (back in Feb
> 2006)where they tried different tubes on a Shanling CD T80 and found
> the tube type could have a dramatic impact on the sound. This set me
> wondering whether the ART Dio was just better without a tube per se, or
> was it more down to the type of tube chosen. Some of the descriptions
> of ill suited tubes, given in the HFW article, could equally apply to
> the ART Dio with its stock tube, so a different tube, just might do the
> trick.
>
> If you have tried different tubes, could you let me know.

The tube is only used for AD conversion, not for DA. So, you'd only see
(hear?) any difference if using the DIO as an AD convertor.

R.

I'm interested in trying a different tube in my ART Dio. I've been
using it for a long time, without the supplied tube, as everyone
advises, but, I'm wondering if anyone has gone for a different approach
and tried changing the tube for a different and perhaps better suited
one. I'm prompted by re-reading an article in Hifi World (back in Feb
2006)where they tried different tubes on a Shanling CD T80 and found
the tube type could have a dramatic impact on the sound. This set me
wondering whether the ART Dio was just better without a tube per se, or
was it more down to the type of tube chosen. Some of the descriptions
of ill suited tubes, given in the HFW article, could equally apply to
the ART Dio with its stock tube, so a different tube, just might do the
trick.

If you have tried different tubes, could you let me know.

Thanks

I'm using the RAKK DAC - transformer coupled PCM1794 available from
K&K Audio. Best digital I've ever heard...
http://kevinsgarage.50megs.com/pages/rakk.html

Before that I used the Monica DAC ... which was a little
softer/undynamic compared to the DI/O.

I know it's been a long, long, long time. So is anyone still alive in
this group?

Just curious ... what, if anything, have you replaced your DI/O with?

I'm still using mine with an Empirical Audio modded Sony 7700 DVD
player as transport. I've tried a few NOS DAC's (non-oversampling) that
I've borrowed or built/modded but that sound just doesn't do it for me.
Too soft, with a lack of dynamics, and a congestion on any music that
begins getting complicated. They were beautiful on simple music and
vocals though. I guess I just like the op-amp punchiness that the DI/O
has.

Enjoy,
Bob

I modified my DI/O using the Volks platform, then Craig's amazing
encyclopedia of refinements.  It's now a dedicated DAC and doesn't support
any analog-to-digital functions.  My nickname in high school was 'llama' and
my last name is pronounced "Lamadoo".  I named this DAC the 'Lama-DIO' which
sounds very simliar to "Lamadoo".

A friend found a dead power amp in a dumpster.  The case is nice so I gutted
it for the dedicated power supply.  I installed Jon Risch'es isolated power
circuit, based on two 25v Radio Shack transformers.  It's output is enough
to power the DVD player and the dedicated power supply.

I only need 3 rails: +5 for the digital board, +15 and -15 for the new
op-amps.  Each rail has a dedicated transformer & 4 Schottky diodes.  I
attached a metal box (for a ceiling fan) inside the case to hold the
regulators and caps.  The theory is that the inner box will shield the
output rail from the transformers' fields.  (The inside of a Wadia is
divided up into metal boxes.)

Each rail has a Panasonic FC cap before the voltage regulator, Panasonic FC
caps after the reg, and Black Gate caps provide bypasses.  I used simple
perf board from Radio Shack and probably should have used double layer
copper plated boards instead.

Teflon insulated 24 gauge solid core (another feebie- 8 pounds of
Plenum-grade CAT5e cabling!) is the chassis wire throughout.

The case has a CAT5e socket, housing three rail voltages and three grounds.
All 3 grounds are carried out of the power supply on the umbilical.  The 3
grounds are connected ONLY inside the DI/O at a single ground lug.  I
learned this from a discussion about a mod to an outboard power supply for a
Naim preamp.  I found a pdf, written by Nelson Pass, describing the order in
which various grounds should be attached to a lug.

Gary Bronn's INA103 op-amp recommendation sounded like the way to go.  I
decided to provide plenty of room for a new audio board.  I found an all
metal case from a printer-switcher.  The audio board is mounted separately
from the DI/O lower/upper board sandwich.

I used stand offs from my personal computer parts to hold the boards in the
new case.

Gary didn't mention that the INA-103 chips are made by Burr-Brown!  That was
another clue that all of the advice was top grade.  I built a voltage
divider from RIKEN-OHM  resistors from Parts Connexion.  The output RCA
jacks are isolated Vampires with external nuts from Percy Audio.  If I need
to remove the board, I can pull the RCAs into the case without de-soldering.

I found an isolated, true 75 ohm RCA jack for digital-in.  I went with a
100ohm load resistor instead of the 75 ohm you'd normally expect.  It was
pretty easy to figure out where the dig-in-signal and dig-in-ground should
go on the lower board.


For ease of resetting the DAC, I wired the +5 rail through a front-mounted
miniature switch.  Curiously, I haven't needed it.  No more bursts of
static.  No more locking up, without sound.  After a month of use, I have
had *no *need *to *reset but I do it once per week, on general principal.  I
keep the whole system on, 24/7.

I haven't altered the Digital board at all.  What should I do and why?

Next time, I'd probably duplicate the voltage regulators and smoothing caps
for the +/- 15 supply.  That would give an independent supply to each
channel.  Corey Greenburg said it made a worthwhile difference in his
buffered, passive preamp.

Also, there must be a neat way to do point-to-point wiring but I haven't
found it yet.

The sound?
--------------
The sound stomps all over the $125 Sony DVD player.  The bass is much
improved, even including the left hand of the piano, and the trombone range.
This range has weight that the Sony never gave it.  The piano now has a
realistic attack and decay.  After I fitted ferrite cores to the integrated
amp's power cord and sigma drive cables, the spitty silibants are gone.

It still sounds congested when more than 2 instruments are playing but that
could be the very old preamp section of the Kenwood integrated amp.  Still,
it's easy to hear that the Lama-DIO sounds better than 90% of my CD
collection.  The difference in clarity between Joni Mitchell's "Court and
Spark" and Patricia Barber's "LIVE: A Fortnight In France" is sobering.

Now it's time to stop spending money on digital playback.

I have to agree with Bob.  I tried the INA103 output and the transformer
output and for me the dynamics of the INA103 just feel more like what I
want to hear - they do dynamics really well.

Bob McNeice wrote:

>It seems that most of the Chinese DAC's are some type of NOS chip. They do
sound nice on simple music, but once things start getting complicated or big and
dynamic I've found that my DI/O keeps things in perspective and uncongested. Now
obviously I haven't tried them all, so please correct me if someone knows of one
that keeps that ease in place. I've also found that cap coupled outputs,
although smooth sounding, doesn't have the dynamic of op amp based output
stages, like the DI/O.
>
>Enjoy,
>Bob
>Sent via BlackBerry from Cingular Wireless
>
>-----Original Message-----
>From: "sedond" <dsedon@...>
>Date: Mon, 28 Aug 2006 15:55:59
>To:DIOmods@yahoogroups.com
>Subject: [DIOmods] Re: DI/O versus DAC1(Benchmark)
>
>recently, a buddy of mine purchased a bolder cables modded di/o on my
> recommendation. he also compared it to the benchmark, & he's kept the
> di/o. he also sold an eastern electric minimax cdp after getting the
> di/o. i am still wondering about the mytrek dac, as well as a few
> reasonably priced chinese dacs f/s on ebay...
>
> doug s.
> --- In DIOmods@yahoogroups: <mailto:DIOmods%40yahoogroups.com> .com, "PeAK"
<peakrchau@...> wrote:
> >
> >
> > Seems like the DI/O still stands up to the current "status quo"...
> > using it archive LPs is a project that is still on the shelf.
> >
> > http://db.audioasyl:
<http://db.audioasylum.com/cgi/m.mpl?forum=digital&amp;n=121443>
um.com/cgi/m.mpl?forum=digital&n=121443
> >
> > PeAK
> >
>
>
>
>
>
>Yahoo! Groups Links
>
>
>
>
>
>
>
>

It seems that most of the Chinese DAC's are some type of NOS chip. They do sound
nice on simple music, but once things start getting complicated or big and
dynamic I've found that my DI/O keeps things in perspective and uncongested. Now
obviously I haven't tried them all, so please correct me if someone knows of one
that keeps that ease in place. I've also found that cap coupled outputs,
although smooth sounding, doesn't have the dynamic of op amp based output
stages, like the DI/O.

Enjoy,
Bob
Sent via BlackBerry from Cingular Wireless

-----Original Message-----
From: "sedond" <dsedon@...>
Date: Mon, 28 Aug 2006 15:55:59
To:DIOmods@yahoogroups.com
Subject: [DIOmods] Re: DI/O versus DAC1(Benchmark)

recently, a buddy of mine purchased a bolder cables modded di/o on my
  recommendation. he also compared it to the benchmark, & he's kept the
  di/o. he also sold an eastern electric minimax cdp after getting the
  di/o. i am still wondering about the mytrek dac, as well as a few
  reasonably priced chinese dacs f/s on ebay...

  doug s.
  --- In DIOmods@yahoogroups: <mailto:DIOmods%40yahoogroups.com> .com, "PeAK"
<peakrchau@...> wrote:
  >
  >
  > Seems like the DI/O still stands up to the current "status quo"...
  > using it archive LPs is a project that is still on the shelf.
  >
  > http://db.audioasyl:
<http://db.audioasylum.com/cgi/m.mpl?forum=digital&amp;n=121443>
um.com/cgi/m.mpl?forum=digital&n=121443
  >
  > PeAK
  >

recently, a buddy of mine purchased a bolder cables modded di/o on my
recommendation.  he also compared it to the benchmark, & he's kept the
di/o.  he also sold an eastern electric minimax cdp after getting the
di/o.  i am still wondering about the mytrek dac, as well as a few
reasonably priced chinese dacs f/s on ebay...

doug s.
--- In DIOmods@yahoogroups.com, "PeAK" <peakrchau@...> wrote:
>
>
> Seems like the DI/O still stands up to the current "status quo"...
> using it archive LPs is a project that is still on the shelf.
>
> http://db.audioasylum.com/cgi/m.mpl?forum=digital&n=121443
>
> PeAK
>

Seems like the DI/O still stands up to the current "status quo"...
using it archive LPs is a project that is still on the shelf.

http://db.audioasylum.com/cgi/m.mpl?forum=digital&n=121443

PeAK

Most of the time  just cycling through the settings restores the lock. Funny,
but with my current transport (EA modded Sony 7700 DVD player) the lock light
stays on, but no sound comes out of the DI/O. Doesn't lose lock all the time,
but often enough.

When I have to unplug it and plug it back in I often have to do it again, after
waiting a minute or two for the unit to discharge completely. That's a pain when
necessary.

Funny enough though, I still keep coming back to it after hearing and trying
other players. I guess I'm just too cheap to spring for a player that DOES
better it, for perhaps $3000 or more though.

Enjoy,
Bob

Sent via BlackBerry from Cingular Wireless

-----Original Message-----
From: "Jim L'Hommedieu, Lama" <jlamadoo@...>
Date: Mon, 24 Jul 2006 17:29:01
To:<DIOmods@yahoogroups.com>
Subject: RE: [DIOmods] Re: could my ART Dio be responsible for my cd player
  developing a problem.

Some people have added a power switch to the D I/O.  I've read that if you turn
it off, then on again each time you change CDs, the lock loss is reduced.
 
Jim L'Hommedieu

Just to say, problem with cd player solved: opened it up and turned
out to be loose connection inside. So much for my complicated view of
things!

If you have any views on other points made re: use of the ART Dio in
my setup, feel free to say.

Thanks guys.



--- In DIOmods@yahoogroups.com, "jtaytay2000" <jtaytay2000@...> wrote:
>
> Hi
>
> I've got a problem with my Cambridge Audio 640C cd player which I
use
> to serve as transport for my unmodded ART Dio. Amp is sugden a21a
and
> speakers Monitor Audio R852MD.
>
> Like others, I've always had some problem with signal locking
between
> DAC and transport. This problem increased when I started using the
640C
> (a nuisance I put up with since the sound was significantly
improved).
> However, when I added the Sugden amp recently, the loss of signal
when
> changing CDs became even more frequent. It seemed to be that one or
two
> cd changes would sync, but then I had to unplug and replug the DAC.
> Before that, turning the cd player off and on, sometimes helped to
> resync the signal.
>
> When I unplug the DAC, you can hear the sound of, I guess, static
elec
> discharging. I've also noticed the dAC seems to run hotter than
before
> since adding the sugden amp (and no, I haven't been daft enough to
put
> it on or too close to the amp). Also, since adding the Sugden my
640C
> occasionally would not turn on, or would shut turned off in the
middle
> of playing (not into standby, but no power apparently coming
through).
> Then it refused to come on when I turned on at the wall switch, not
> even into standby. Once, it 'tried' to go into standby as shown
when
> the blue power LED flickered on, then went out again.
>
> I've checked the power cable which seems ok. The digital cable I
use is
> actually one of a pair of audio interconnects which sounds very
good
> with the system, though I appreciate that it may not be 75ohms.
When I
> used this cable with another cd player and amp, I rarely lost the
> signal and there seemed no problems (but the sound with the other
> transport was inferior)
>
> So, I'm wondering if anyone has suggestions why my cd player might
not
> now be turning on, even into standby. I bought it second hand and
it's
> an amazing player, especially as a transport, but it doesn't
warrant
> spending much to sort the problem, so I'd rather have a go myself.
>
> I appreciate this is an ART DIO forum and my question seems to be
about
> my player, but I keep wondering if my particular setup has led to
the
> problem. In particular:
>
> 1. Why would my DAC be running hotter (I know the weather might
affect
> this :-) )
> 2. Is there any way the high gain of the DAC in connection with my
amp
> could be doing something untoward
> 3. Is there any way the static in the DAC could be affecting the cd
> player - through the digital link for example.
>
> Bottom line is I want to fix the player, reduce the number of lost
> syncs and continue to enjoy the sound the system is capable of
making.
> The sync issue I'll put up with if I can get an otherwise stable
system
> back up and running.
>
> Thanks for your thoughts
>
> Chris
>

Hi

I've got a problem with my Cambridge Audio 640C cd player which I use
to serve as transport for my unmodded ART Dio. Amp is sugden a21a and
speakers Monitor Audio R852MD.

Like others, I've always had some problem with signal locking between
DAC and transport. This problem increased when I started using the 640C
(a nuisance I put up with since the sound was significantly improved).
However, when I added the Sugden amp recently, the loss of signal when
changing CDs became even more frequent. It seemed to be that one or two
cd changes would sync, but then I had to unplug and replug the DAC.
Before that, turning the cd player off and on, sometimes helped to
resync the signal.

When I unplug the DAC, you can hear the sound of, I guess, static elec
discharging. I've also noticed the dAC seems to run hotter than before
since adding the sugden amp (and no, I haven't been daft enough to put
it on or too close to the amp). Also, since adding the Sugden my 640C
occasionally would not turn on, or would shut turned off in the middle
of playing (not into standby, but no power apparently coming through).
Then it refused to come on when I turned on at the wall switch, not
even into standby. Once, it 'tried' to go into standby as shown when
the blue power LED flickered on, then went out again.

I've checked the power cable which seems ok. The digital cable I use is
actually one of a pair of audio interconnects which sounds very good
with the system, though I appreciate that it may not be 75ohms. When I
used this cable with another cd player and amp, I rarely lost the
signal and there seemed no problems (but the sound with the other
transport was inferior)

So, I'm wondering if anyone has suggestions why my cd player might not
now be turning on, even into standby. I bought it second hand and it's
an amazing player, especially as a transport, but it doesn't warrant
spending much to sort the problem, so I'd rather have a go myself.

I appreciate this is an ART DIO forum and my question seems to be about
my player, but I keep wondering if my particular setup has led to the
problem. In particular:

1. Why would my DAC be running hotter (I know the weather might affect
this :-) )
2. Is there any way the high gain of the DAC in connection with my amp
could be doing something untoward
3. Is there any way the static in the DAC could be affecting the cd
player - through the digital link for example.

Bottom line is I want to fix the player, reduce the number of lost
syncs and continue to enjoy the sound the system is capable of making.
The sync issue I'll put up with if I can get an otherwise stable system
back up and running.

Thanks for your thoughts

Chris

Hello all!

I get DIO 4 days ago for listening with my Marantz 63SE.
After tube removing the sound became even more dynamic and clear.
All was OK and I decided to buy it.
But today the terrible thing happened: one channel became totally
silent, while another with strong distortions.
I checked the supply - they are OK.
Simply checked output opamp with "screwdriver-50hz-generator" :) -
seems its alive too.
Now I'm thinking that AK4524 is dead. :(

My questions are:
1. Had anyone similar problem? Advices?
2. How to check AK4524? There is a pin called "test". Is it possible to
use it?

Thank you!

Nick.

Sorry, that is "promitheus", not with an e.

--- In DIOmods@yahoogroups.com, "Matthew Moscardini" <poolorpond12@...> wrote:
>
> I had been teasing around with an idea of balanced outputs on a DAC to use
with my
Pass
> DIY aleph 30.  I really love the sound of this amp and wanted to maximize its
potential
by
> using the balanced inputs.  I was going to build a dac that used differential
outs for each
> channel but then found the DIO and saw the jensen mods and thought that I had
an
easy
> solution.  However, there was a guy, Prometheus, on DIYAUDIO.com, who was
selling
> output boards (I think that his were single ended though) based on Pass' D1
dac.  A
search
> for the D1 should come up with something.  I will try to post the service
manual on this
> forum ASAP.
>
> The reason for this mod over the transformers is that there is some concern
with the
DAC
> driving the transformer directly.  I know that people are doing it but it does
not seem
> optimal (although simple).  There really should be a buffer/ driver.
>
> It would also be easier to add a balanced network that reflects the output
caps and
> resistors referenced from ground to the (-) pin on the balanced connector. 
But, you
would
> need to use the opamps, which I hate.
>
> Additionally, this mod uses discrete transistors.  The stock output circuit
with the
opamps
> is a mess.  There is no substitute for discrete components.  The ONLY
detraction IMHO
is
> that you need to add another +30v source.  With this and the additional
circuitry, you
will
> most likely need a new enclosure.  Take a look, let me know what people think.
>

I had been teasing around with an idea of balanced outputs on a DAC to use with
my Pass
DIY aleph 30.  I really love the sound of this amp and wanted to maximize its
potential by
using the balanced inputs.  I was going to build a dac that used differential
outs for each
channel but then found the DIO and saw the jensen mods and thought that I had an
easy
solution.  However, there was a guy, Prometheus, on DIYAUDIO.com, who was
selling
output boards (I think that his were single ended though) based on Pass' D1 dac.
A search
for the D1 should come up with something.  I will try to post the service manual
on this
forum ASAP.

The reason for this mod over the transformers is that there is some concern with
the DAC
driving the transformer directly.  I know that people are doing it but it does
not seem
optimal (although simple).  There really should be a buffer/ driver.

It would also be easier to add a balanced network that reflects the output caps
and
resistors referenced from ground to the (-) pin on the balanced connector.  But,
you would
need to use the opamps, which I hate.

Additionally, this mod uses discrete transistors.  The stock output circuit with
the opamps
is a mess.  There is no substitute for discrete components.  The ONLY detraction
IMHO is
that you need to add another +30v source.  With this and the additional
circuitry, you will
most likely need a new enclosure.  Take a look, let me know what people think.