My memory tells me the DQ-10's sounded excellent with a Phase Linear
700B.  Mine are very pleasing with VTL Compact 100's.
D





--- In Dahlquist@yahoogroups.com, "drheshamgamal" <drheshamgamal@...>
wrote:
>
> I just bought a used DQ-10 They sound good  but i think they lack some
> bass any suggestion about that.
> Is there a way to modify them to be biamped as i have 3 power amp a
> carver PM-1200 (its 450W) and a Quad 520F and a phase linear 300 series
> 2. would like to make they buwired so i can use one for the high
> frequencies and 1 for the low frequencies and if used a subwoofer do i
> need a n active or passive one . I know too much questions but I am a
> good listner and not good in electronics and setup sytems thank you
>

like to know how to modify the DQ-10 to be biwired
please explain exactly how to do it as I am not so good in electronics
thank you for your help

Please don't do this to your speakers if you are not experienced in
electronics or speaker modification.
If you really want it done get someone who's done it before.
Just replacing the wire with high quality litz type speaker wire will
make a pretty big difference.
If you live near Pittsburgh I could help you with it.

Otherwise please don't mess up a really good speaker.

Anders


--- In Dahlquist@yahoogroups.com, "drheshamgamal" <drheshamgamal@...>
wrote:
>
> like to know how to modify the DQ-10 to be biwired
> please explain exactly how to do it as I am not so good in electronics
> thank you for your help
>

I second Anders' comments, modifying the DQ-10s for biamping or biwiring if you believe in that requires modification of the crossover that would be best done by someone who's familiar with XO design and circuits.

For furutre reference, though, I described how I thought the easiest way to make a pair of DQ-10s biampable/biwireable sometime back here: http://www.sound-thinking.org/index.php?showtopic=1902

- JP
--- In Dahlquist@yahoogroups.com, "drheshamgamal" <drheshamgamal@...> wrote:
>
> like to know how to modify the DQ-10 to be biwired
> please explain exactly how to do it as I am not so good in electronics
> thank you for your help
>

Hello,

This email message is a notification to let you know that
a file has been uploaded to the Files area of the Dahlquist
group.

   File        : /DQ-20_Owner's Manual and Warranty Card.pdf
   Uploaded by : dpt1092002 <dpt1092002@...>
   Description : DQ-20 Owner's Manual and Warranty Card

You can access this file at the URL:
http://groups.yahoo.com/group/Dahlquist/files/DQ-20_Owner%27s%20Manual%20and%20W\
arranty%20Card.pdf

To learn more about file sharing for your group, please visit:
http://help.yahoo.com/help/us/groups/files

Regards,

dpt1092002 <dpt1092002@...>

Hi everybody ,

I am going to finally deal with the woofers now . I would like to know wether it
is best
to totally rebuild them and send them out , in which case where? is Regnar the
best ?
they are very expensive, but are they better then simply speaker , speaker
supply or
Lyne Audio ? The other question is, my surrounds are broken but the paper cone
is ok
so should i just get new surrounds?, and put them in .

Thank you all
Alex

-----Original Message-----
From: Dahlquist@yahoogroups.com [mailto:Dahlquist@yahoogroups.com] On Behalf Of alexbel7
Sent: Tuesday, July 24, 2007 3:31 PM
To: Dahlquist@yahoogroups.com
Subject: [Dahlquist] To rebiuld my woofers (DQ10) send out or build in .

Hi everybody ,

I am going to finally deal with the woofers now . I would like to know wether it is best
to totally rebuild them and send them out , in which case where? is Regnar the best ?
they are very expensive, but are they better then simply speaker , speaker supply or
Lyne Audio ? The other question is, my surrounds are broken but the paper cone is ok
so should i just get new surrounds?, and put them in .

Thank you all
Alex

Thanks Durs, I will take that rout . where do I order the surrounds from please
?
-Alex

-- In Dahlquist@yahoogroups.com, "Durs Koenig" <durs@...> wrote:
>
> Hi Alex,
>
> My answer is that since the paper cones are okay and most all of us
> have replaced the surrounds on our woofers that you should taken the'
> proven path of just replacing the inexpensive surrounds.  If it sounds great
> then
> you are done.  If it needs more help then you can take that step.
> High probability you will be happily enjoying music once the surrounds are
> replaced.
> You can do it yourself.
>
> Rock ON!
> Durs
>
> -----Original Message-----
> From: Dahlquist@yahoogroups.com [mailto:Dahlquist@yahoogroups.com] On
Behalf
> Of alexbel7
> Sent: Tuesday, July 24, 2007 3:31 PM
> To: Dahlquist@yahoogroups.com
> Subject: [Dahlquist] To rebiuld my woofers (DQ10) send out or build in .
>
>
>
> Hi everybody ,
>
> I am going to finally deal with the woofers now . I would like to know
> wether it is best
> to totally rebuild them and send them out , in which case where? is Regnar
> the best ?
> they are very expensive, but are they better then simply speaker , speaker
> supply or
> Lyne Audio ? The other question is, my surrounds are broken but the paper
> cone is ok
> so should i just get new surrounds?, and put them in .
>
> Thank you all
> Alex
>

-----Original Message-----
From: Dahlquist@yahoogroups.com [mailto:Dahlquist@yahoogroups.com] On Behalf Of alexbel7
Sent: Tuesday, July 24, 2007 7:30 PM
To: Dahlquist@yahoogroups.com
Subject: [Dahlquist] Re: To rebiuld my woofers (DQ10) send out or build in .

Thanks Durs, I will take that rout . where do I order the surrounds from please ?
-Alex

-- In Dahlquist@yahoogroups.com, "Durs Koenig" <durs@...> wrote:
>
> Hi Alex,
>
> My answer is that since the paper cones are okay and most all of us
> have replaced the surrounds on our woofers that you should taken the'
> proven path of just replacing the inexpensive surrounds. If it sounds great
> then
> you are done. If it needs more help then you can take that step.
> High probability you will be happily enjoying music once the surrounds are
> replaced.
> You can do it yourself.
>
> Rock ON!
> Durs
>
> -----Original Message-----
> From: Dahlquist@yahoogroups.com [mailto:Dahlquist@yahoogroups.com] On
Behalf
> Of alexbel7
> Sent: Tuesday, July 24, 2007 3:31 PM
> To: Dahlquist@yahoogroups.com
> Subject: [Dahlquist] To rebiuld my woofers (DQ10) send out or build in .
>
>
>
> Hi everybody ,
>
> I am going to finally deal with the woofers now . I would like to know
> wether it is best
> to totally rebuild them and send them out , in which case where? is Regnar
> the best ?
> they are very expensive, but are they better then simply speaker , speaker
> supply or
> Lyne Audio ? The other question is, my surrounds are broken but the paper
> cone is ok
> so should i just get new surrounds?, and put them in .
>
> Thank you all
> Alex
>

Hi Alex, you can do the refoam yourself, as Durs points out. There's no question about that, but it's not as easy as you'd think. When done correctly, you need to remove the dust cap and shim the voice coil before gluing the foam. If the voice coil isn't centered when the glue dries, it can scrape the magnet when it moves back and forth. 

The dust cap isn't easy to get off. It's glued with epoxy. I had to use an exacto knife on mine. It was tough to stay on the glue line and somehow I sliced through the cone, which meant I needed at a recone job. doh! 

That's when I found Bill LeGall at Millersound. He's widely considered the best speaker repairman in the world. I kid you not. Here's a write up about him at Six Moons: 

http://www.sixmoons.com/industryfeatures/forbidden/forbidden_9.html

Bill's prices are reasonable and his work is outstanding. Your woofer will come back better than it was new. Along with refoaming and reconing, he offers frame damping ($15) which kills the resonance in the frame and improves the quality of bass. He also offers cone damping ($5) which controls resonance in the cone itself. I don't think any other speaker repair place offers this kind of work. Bill is a one of kind and a true master. The results are phenomenal. My bass is deeper, tighter and more controlled than ever before. I highly recommend checking him out:

Bill LeGall at Millersound

http://www.millersound.net/about.htm

millerspkr@aol.com

215.412.7700

On Jul 24, 2007, at 8:26 PM, Durs Koenig wrote:

That's easy.  EPay.  http://cgi.ebay.com/Speaker-Foam-Dahlquist-DQ-10-DQ-20-Speakers-FS-10F_W0QQitemZ5851052584QQihZ008QQcategoryZ3276QQrdZ1QQssPageNameZWD1VQQcmdZViewItem

 

If the link doesn't work you can go to SimplySpeakers.com

 

 

-----Original Message-----
From: Dahlquist@yahoogroups.com [mailto:Dahlquist@yahoogroups.com] On Behalf Of alexbel7
Sent: Tuesday, July 24, 2007 7:30 PM
To: Dahlquist@yahoogroups.com
Subject: [Dahlquist] Re: To rebiuld my woofers (DQ10) send out or build in .

Thanks Durs, I will take that rout . where do I order the surrounds from please ?
-Alex

-- In Dahlquist@yahoogroups.com, "Durs Koenig" <durs@...> wrote:
>
> Hi Alex,
>
> My answer is that since the paper cones are okay and most all of us
> have replaced the surrounds on our woofers that you should taken the'
> proven path of just replacing the inexpensive surrounds. If it sounds great
> then
> you are done. If it needs more help then you can take that step.
> High probability you will be happily enjoying music once the surrounds are
> replaced.
> You can do it yourself.
>
> Rock ON!
> Durs
>
> -----Original Message-----
> From: Dahlquist@yahoogroups.com [mailto:Dahlquist@yahoogroups.com] On
Behalf
> Of alexbel7
> Sent: Tuesday, July 24, 2007 3:31 PM
> To: Dahlquist@yahoogroups.com
> Subject: [Dahlquist] To rebiuld my woofers (DQ10) send out or build in .
>
>
>
> Hi everybody ,
>
> I am going to finally deal with the woofers now . I would like to know
> wether it is best
> to totally rebuild them and send them out , in which case where? is Regnar
> the best ?
> they are very expensive, but are they better then simply speaker , speaker
> supply or
> Lyne Audio ? The other question is, my surrounds are broken but the paper
> cone is ok
> so should i just get new surrounds?, and put them in .
>
> Thank you all
> Alex
>

.....I just got off the phone with Bill ,and I am sending him the woofer's, and
he has a
tweeter for me too . He is a very, very nice guy, and cordial too. Now since I
am de-
soldering my woofers off the wires, i might as well disconnect the supper
tweeters . I
have put my ear to them and don't hear any thing , but I'll do it any way . How
can I
best do this, and will I have to change polarity some where ?

  Alex B


  --- In Dahlquist@yahoogroups.com, j bush
<jeremiahdbush@...> wrote:
>
> I had Bill rebuild the 8" drivers from my DQ-12s.  He does a fantastic job at
a very
reasonable price.  Call him first.  Added bonus: he used to be a factory service
center
for Dahlquist.  No affiliation, etc.
>
> Mark Ingles <markingles@...> wrote:            Hi Alex, you can do the refoam
yourself, as Durs points out. There's no question about that, but it's not as
easy as
you'd think. When done correctly, you need to remove the dust cap and shim the
voice coil before gluing the foam. If the voice coil isn't centered when the
glue dries,
it can scrape the magnet when it moves back and forth.
>
>
>   The dust cap isn't easy to get off. It's glued with epoxy. I had to use an
exacto
knife on mine. It was tough to stay on the glue line and somehow I sliced
through the
cone, which meant I needed at a recone job. doh!
>
>
>   That's when I found Bill LeGall at Millersound. He's widely considered the
best
speaker repairman in the world. I kid you not. Here's a write up about him at
Six
Moons:
>
>
>   http://www.sixmoons.com/industryfeatures/forbidden/forbidden_9.html
>
>
>   Bill's prices are reasonable and his work is outstanding. Your woofer will
come
back better than it was new. Along with refoaming and reconing, he offers frame
damping ($15) which kills the resonance in the frame and improves the quality of
bass. He also offers cone damping ($5) which controls resonance in the cone
itself. I
don't think any other speaker repair place offers this kind of work. Bill is a
one of kind
and a true master. The results are phenomenal. My bass is deeper, tighter and
more
controlled than ever before. I highly recommend checking him out:
>
>
>   Bill LeGall at Millersound
>   http://www.millersound.net/about.htm
>   millerspkr@...
>   215.412.7700
>
>
>
>
>
>
>
>
>     On Jul 24, 2007, at 8:26 PM, Durs Koenig wrote:
>
>
>
>   That's easy.  EPay.  http://cgi.ebay.com/Speaker-Foam-Dahlquist-DQ-10-DQ-
20-Speakers-FS-
10F_W0QQitemZ5851052584QQihZ008QQcategoryZ3276QQrdZ1QQssPageNameZW
D1VQQcmdZViewItem
>
>   If the link doesn't work you can go to SimplySpeakers.com
>
>
>
>   -----Original Message-----
> From: Dahlquist@yahoogroups.com [mailto:Dahlquist@yahoogroups.com] On
Behalf Of alexbel7
> Sent: Tuesday, July 24, 2007 7:30 PM
> To: Dahlquist@yahoogroups.com
> Subject: [Dahlquist] Re: To rebiuld my woofers (DQ10) send out or build in .
>
>
>     Thanks Durs, I will take that rout . where do I order the surrounds from
please ?
> -Alex
>
> -- In Dahlquist@yahoogroups.com, "Durs Koenig" <durs@> wrote:
> >
> > Hi Alex,
> >
> > My answer is that since the paper cones are okay and most all of us
> > have replaced the surrounds on our woofers that you should taken the'
> > proven path of just replacing the inexpensive surrounds. If it sounds great
> > then
> > you are done. If it needs more help then you can take that step.
> > High probability you will be happily enjoying music once the surrounds are
> > replaced.
> > You can do it yourself.
> >
> > Rock ON!
> > Durs
> >
> > -----Original Message-----
> > From: Dahlquist@yahoogroups.com [mailto:Dahlquist@yahoogroups.com] On
> Behalf
> > Of alexbel7
> > Sent: Tuesday, July 24, 2007 3:31 PM
> > To: Dahlquist@yahoogroups.com
> > Subject: [Dahlquist] To rebiuld my woofers (DQ10) send out or build in .
> >
> >
> >
> > Hi everybody ,
> >
> > I am going to finally deal with the woofers now . I would like to know
> > wether it is best
> > to totally rebuild them and send them out , in which case where? is Regnar
> > the best ?
> > they are very expensive, but are they better then simply speaker , speaker
> > supply or
> > Lyne Audio ? The other question is, my surrounds are broken but the paper
> > cone is ok
> > so should i just get new surrounds?, and put them in .
> >
> > Thank you all
> > Alex
> >
>
>
>
>
>
>
>
>
>
>
>
>
>
>
>
> ---------------------------------
> Moody friends. Drama queens. Your life? Nope! - their life, your story.
>  Play Sims Stories at Yahoo! Games.
>

I have read in a post on this sight , that dissing the supper tweeter can create
a need
to make an adjustment to polarity " reverse the polarity on the tweeter " by,
"old fat
boy " . " clip the lead at the 35 ohm resister " . I have de-soldered the S
tweeter and
removed them , is this all I have to do, or is there more ? John says " change
the
phase
of the tweeter ,{ IF } top end sounds '' edgy '' is this always the case ? How
do you
change the phase ? and switch the wires to the tweeter ??

Thanks
Alex B

-----Original Message-----
From: Dahlquist@yahoogroups.com [mailto:Dahlquist@yahoogroups.com] On Behalf Of Mark Ingles
Sent: Thursday, July 26, 2007 10:27 PM
To: Dahlquist@yahoogroups.com
Subject: Re: [Dahlquist] disconnecting the supper tweeter ....

Hi Alex, 

There are two camps of thought on disconnecting the super tweeter. I'm in the camp that says don't do it 

I discussed this mod with Jeff Glowacki at Sonic Craft. I have a lot of respect for him. He's been designing crossovers and building speakers for more than 20 years. He said that removing the super tweeter (and capacitor) without modifying the rest of the crossover will result in rolling off the top end. The dome tweeter uses a bandpass filter that slopes frequencies on both sides, so frequencies above 12.5 kHz are rolled off regardless of whether the piezo is present. Not everyone can hear all the way up to 20 kHz, so removing the piezo can easily go unnoticed. Do the test for yourself. Disconnect the leads and evaluate it over a couple of days or weeks. Then decide what you like best. 

I agree the piezo is ridiculous. No respectable speaker company these days would use it. But the crossover in the DQ-10 is the genius of this speaker. To mess with it, is to mess with the heart of this gem. Crossovers are not as simple as they look and bandpass filters are difficult to modify. What many people don't realize is that capacitors, inductors and resistors share all three properties (i.e., capacitors not only have capacitance, but they have resistance and inductance too). When you start taking out components, you mess with the impedance correction designed in the circuit to help the drivers perform best. Here's a good overview on the subject:  

http://www.lalena.com/Audio/Electronics/RCL/

In any case, I'd rather live with piezo than mess with a good thing. Just my two cents. 

All the best, 

Mark

On Jul 26, 2007, at 12:39 PM, alexbel7 wrote:

I have read in a post on this sight , that dissing the supper tweeter can create a need
to make an adjustment to polarity " reverse the polarity on the tweeter " by, "old fat
boy " . " clip the lead at the 35 ohm resister " . I have de-soldered the S tweeter and
removed them , is this all I have to do, or is there more ? John says " change the
phase
of the tweeter ,{ IF } top end sounds '' edgy '' is this always the case ? How do you
change the phase ? and switch the wires to the tweeter ??

Thanks
Alex B

--- In Dahlquist@yahoogroups.com, "Durs Koenig" <durs@...> wrote:
>
> Mark,
>
> Outstanding response.
>  Hi, Mark
Thanks for the post . I was told " less is more " but once again , in this case
DOING
less, is more .  I already took the S-tweeter's out but only from the wire's
connected
to the tweeter so I'll just solder them back on but forgot which wire goes to
what side
. One is a violet color and the other is a light brown . looking at the back of
the S-
tweeter I think the violet wire is to the left . Is this correct ? Oh the violet
wire leads to
the cap's and the L-brown one to the  board

Alex B
>
>
> -----Original Message-----
> From: Dahlquist@yahoogroups.com [mailto:Dahlquist@yahoogroups.com] On
Behalf
> Of Mark Ingles
> Sent: Thursday, July 26, 2007 10:27 PM
> To: Dahlquist@yahoogroups.com
> Subject: Re: [Dahlquist] disconnecting the supper tweeter ....
>
>
>
> Hi Alex,
>
>
>
> There are two camps of thought on disconnecting the super tweeter. I'm in
> the camp that says don't do it
>
>
> I discussed this mod with Jeff Glowacki at Sonic Craft. I have a lot of
> respect for him. He's been designing crossovers and building speakers for
> more than 20 years. He said that removing the super tweeter (and capacitor)
> without modifying the rest of the crossover will result in rolling off the
> top end. The dome tweeter uses a bandpass filter that slopes frequencies on
> both sides, so frequencies above 12.5 kHz are rolled off regardless of
> whether the piezo is present. Not everyone can hear all the way up to 20
> kHz, so removing the piezo can easily go unnoticed. Do the test for
> yourself. Disconnect the leads and evaluate it over a couple of days or
> weeks. Then decide what you like best.
>
> I agree the piezo is ridiculous. No respectable speaker company these days
> would use it. But the crossover in the DQ-10 is the genius of this speaker.
> To mess with it, is to mess with the heart of this gem. Crossovers are not
> as simple as they look and bandpass filters are difficult to modify. What
> many people don't realize is that capacitors, inductors and resistors share
> all three properties (i.e., capacitors not only have capacitance, but they
> have resistance and inductance too). When you start taking out components,
> you mess with the impedance correction designed in the circuit to help the
> drivers perform best. Here's a good overview on the subject:
>
> http://www.lalena. <http://www.lalena.com/Audio/Electronics/RCL/>
> com/Audio/Electronics/RCL/
>
> In any case, I'd rather live with piezo than mess with a good thing. Just my
> two cents.
>
> All the best,
> Mark
>
>
>
>
>
> On Jul 26, 2007, at 12:39 PM, alexbel7 wrote:
>
>
>
>
> I have read in a post on this sight , that dissing the supper tweeter can
> create a need
> to make an adjustment to polarity " reverse the polarity on the tweeter "
> by, "old fat
> boy " . " clip the lead at the 35 ohm resister " . I have de-soldered the S
> tweeter and
> removed them , is this all I have to do, or is there more ? John says "
> change the
> phase
> of the tweeter ,{ IF } top end sounds '' edgy '' is this always the case ?
> How do you
> change the phase ? and switch the wires to the tweeter ??
>
> Thanks
> Alex B
>

Hi all,

I was wondering if you had any recommendations on best setup of the
DQ1W sub using 2 amps that are identical:  My pre has one OUT, and I
have split this using Y-wires, with one out running to the main amp,
and the other set running to the sub amp and through an MX1
crossover.  I've basically got the amps running parallel, but I'm
wondering if it makes sense to try to bridge them.

Also, I've run both sub outs (L and R) in stereo configuration to the
sub amp, and then maintained the stereo configuration in the
crossover all the way through to my DQ1W.  Does it make any more
sense to just use mono for the sub, and forget the stereo
configuration?

Further question:  If I were to get a second DQ1W, how would I
negotiate this through the MX1, which has just one pair of outs for a
sub?  Would it be best to run the L signal to one sub, and the R
signal to the other?

BTW, the DQ1W replaces an M&K VX-7 active sub I was running prior.  I
must say that, while I thought the M&K was a nice supplement to my DQ-
10s, the DQ1W definitely takes things to a new sonic level.  The bass
fits in nicer with the main speakers, and the timbres coming from the
DQ1W are far more distinguishable as different bass instruments in
relation to the M&K--i.e., it's not just "bass sounds" anymore, but
bass with lots more color.

Thanks for any additional advice and perspective!

Michael

Thanks, as always, Durs!  I see the subs now in the second pic, in
front of the fireplace.

Further question:  How do you split the signal through the LP1 to run
it to both subs?  That's a critical issue I hope to resolve.  I
believe both the LP1 and MX1 have just a single L/R sub output.

Michael

--- In Dahlquist@yahoogroups.com, "Durs Koenig" <durs@...> wrote:
>
> Hi Michael,
>
> Just for an option, kind of where you are heading, I use a DQ LP-1
active
> crossover that I had
> Sonic Perfectionists in Seattle upgrade specifically for my amp.  I
use it
> to split the audio frequency.
> A solid state amp powers my two  DQ 1W subwoofers and a tube amp
handles the
> audio frequency
> above 100 hz.  The subwoofer(s) really do help.
> The DQ LP-1 will let you run two DQ1W's.  Just an idea for you.
>
> Durs
>

I'm in need of a Scan-Speak D2008-8517 tweeter for one of my DQ-20s
but all that I can find is the D2008-8512.  Anyone know what the
difference is, if any?

Thanks,
Devin

if you had a chance to buy a DQ-10 or  B&W 801 which choice would you
prefere

Be well,

   Do good work,

      Stay in touch,

                 Mr. Jaime A. Faux

While it is true that alot of higher-end speaker companies try to
keep a certain family of sound among all their models the DQ10 is
different.

The DQ10 is unique in that it was designed to sound similiar to the
Quad electrostatic speaker.
All the other Dahlquist speakers were designed for a certain set of
people.
The DQ20's sound completely different and the DQM series were made
for rockers who wanted a louder speaker.
Personally I only like the DQ10's.
I almost bought them but I bought electrostatic speakers instead.
If I ever come across a pair at a good deal I will take them.

Anders



--- In Dahlquist@yahoogroups.com, "Mr. Jaime FAUX" <daddy8083@...>
wrote:
>
> Hello there:
>     Firstly, most (esp. high end units) have a family sound.
Dahlquists sound pretty much the same, KEF's, Dynaco's, A/D/S, Bose,
Maggies, etc. all have a similar sound within their manufacturer's
line.  An analogy might be that an Ford compares pretty much to a
Mercury, but don't compare them to a Hummer.
>      Secondly, location, location, location... How it sounds in my
room will certainly be different than the sound in your room.  You
might even move the speakers around in your room and realize
different results.  If you are looking to buy these used speakers,
see if you can borrow them and hook them up with your equipment.
>       Thirdly, the human ear (and memory) are very forgiving and
adaptive.  Using any good speaker in a given environment should
provide more than enough satisfaction.  Unless it is important for
you to tell your friends that a $1000 loudspeaker sounds better that
a $400 one, which we all know is not the case, the best thing to do
is audition your candidates.
>       Now, here is MY question.  Will an ABC moving coil sound
better than an XWZ moving magnet?  I'll be using either a 234 t'table
or a 567 (Mk 2) - I haven't decided which arms to use.  My amplifiers
will be by Soundesign or Yorx.
>
>      Bottom line, both speakers are good.  The bass on the B&W's is
a bit punchier, while the DQ-10's are more musical... I would take
the DQ's to listen to over the long term, and maybe the others if I
listened to nothing but rock all the time. But, I would ba happy with
either. (Boy, did I open up a can of worms)
>       Hey everyone, Hava gr8 weekend!!
>
>
>
> Be well,
>
>    Do good work,
>
>       Stay in touch,
>
>                  Mr. Jaime A. Faux
>
>
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hi Mr. Jaime A. Faux
thanks for your guide you are defenitly right I have listen to both i
loved the DQ-10 for its lack of colouration and good sound
distribution of sound but in the same time i love punshier bass which
was found in The B& W so thats why its difficult for me to choose
maybe if i connect the DQ-10 to subwoofer it will be better what do
you think about that
thanks