I am currently using 1/16 board.I made a carrier from a for sale sign and a
sheet of the colored plastic card that is kept right next to the for sale signs
at home depot. The 2 together add up to 1/16 inch. They are plastic and are
therefor durable and can be taped to, and the tape removed without damage. I
printed on to paper first, then taped the 2 plastic cards together with the
paper print on top. Then I cut out the card to the dimensions of the paper and
cut the board hole out. Then I pulled of the paper print and taped all 8 edges
together, then a piece of paper to the bottom of the card. I am able to drop the
board into the hole and it indexes perfectly every time. I use a small piece of
tape to hold the top and bottom edge of the board, The carrier fits through the
printer with room to spare. My guess is I could go another 1/32 thicker.

Last night I printed in black at only 25% density. Dried the board at 275
degrees for 10 mins then re printed at the same density. Flipped the board and
did the same for the other side then oven dried the complete board for 30 mins
at 275, It is necessary to let the board cool before re printing as at 275 the
ink is like a soft plastic. I then etched with acid and had a fantastic result.
I have used toner transfer with an iron, tt with a laminater, tt with foil, and
positive resist boards. I have even built a cnc mill for boards. Last nights
results was by far the best quality board I have ever made. I can not see any
difference between it and some board house boards I have had produced.
BAZZA

--- In Inkjet_PCB_Construction@yahoogroups.com, "handy2209" <handy2209@...>
wrote:
>
> Sorry I can not comment on the ink problem but other aspects of the email
caught my attention.
>
> I became very interested when I saw the mention of the printer can be used
without mechanical modifications to the paper path.
>
> I have done quick net search for for some good specifications to see if I
could determine the max vertical feed gap. The best I could find was 1.2 mm. I
use 1/16" = 1.56 mm boards.
>
> This seems to be uncomfortably close, add a cardboard carrier and it seems to
me that I may be out of luck?
>
> What board thicknesses have you tried?
>
> handy
>
>
>
> --- In Inkjet_PCB_Construction@yahoogroups.com, "barry" <bazza@> wrote:
> >
> > Hi guys. I am new to this forum and I have a couple of questions.
> > I have an Epsom r2400 printer that I am going to use. It will take boards up
to 13 inches wide and unlimited length without any modifications what so ever.
This printer uses the Epsom ultra chrome k3 ink.They are an ink base in an
aqueous solution.
> > As far as I know it was the only printer to use this ink. As a professional
series photo printer the software with it is extensive.
> > I have found that If I use black ink, then I need to cut the ink density way
back to stop smudging. I have set the printer to max pause time between head
passes (5 seconds)I and am able to build up as many layers as needed.The board
re indexes perfectly. Yellow can go on at 100% without smudging. The ink takes
forever to dry. Even in a 200 degree oven for 10 mins does not completely dry
it. I have only tried etching with yellow ink with limited success. I think the
ink was not dry enough. Has anyone used the ultra chrome ink with success? Any
ideas on how long and at what temp I should bake the ink at before etching? I
used yellow because I have read that it uses more pigments? This is an 8 color
set up so should I try a different color.Should I pursue the inks or should I
just try to get a cartridge filled with misspro? I etched with ferric chloride
as I thought it may be more gentle than murriatic. I usually etch with acid and
are more comfortable with it. I use acid/h2o2 mixed in a ziplock bag. Drop the
bag in a sink of hot water to let the acid warm up. open the bag and drop in the
board. Then you can regulate the acid temp with the water temp. Its easy to
agitate and you can flip the bag to see both sides. All the fumes stay in the
bag.When its done just unzip the bag and pop the board out. You can do this with
no mess, no fumes, heat regulated, and with a minimum of acid in the bag. What
has been your experience with acid verses ferric chloride on ink stability.
> > For any one who wants an absolutely no fuss option for a printer. This model
works straight out of the box. Its just a matter of making a cardboard carrier
for each board size you want to print. Ebay is your friend!
> > Bazza.
> >
>