Cumplo en informales, por si a alguien le interesa,
que terminé de hacer mi sitio propio nuevo, y que aproveché para actualizar
el manual que ofrezco en el blog y para aumentar la información brindada,
con nuevos artículos, diagramas, fotografías y videos, y las reformas que me
parecieron pertinentes en los artículos que ya estaban desde antes.
Creo que esta es una versión nueva y aumentada del manual que ofrezco
y que si son gustosos, pueden visitarlo en
http://www.oscarperone.com.ar
En especial les recomiendo que vean:
http://www.oscarperone.com.ar/docs/paradigma.html
Espero que quieran visitarlo, los espero.
Gracias por todo.
Oscar Perone
Buenos Aires
Argentina
00 54 11 1532837346
oscarperone@...
sitio: http://www.oscarperone.com.ar
blog en portugues: http://oscarperonenportugues.blogspot.com/
foro: http://apiculturanatural.foroactivo.net
skype: oscarperone
My ne
Hi all,
I always think the beekeeping management recommended in the
Natural Extensive Beekeeping handbook could be a solution for
people with scarce resources who live all over the world: they
are thousands of millions and are living with different lack
conditions.
This technique allow to practice beekeeping without knowing the theory, without
purchasing hives – only acquiring bees from catching swarms.
This will partially or on the whole depend on people.
I think as many others do that it´s good to gift a fish to
poor people, but it´s better to teach them to fish it.
The limitant resource is the beekeeping material necesary for
practising this natural extensive beekeeping.
Because of poverty – resources or capital lack – it would not
be worth for you to read information of this free handbook if
you hadn´t any place where to put swarms and transform them in
productive colonies.
That´s the reason why we have imagined a hive disign which
could be constructed easily with cheap, available materials
and without sophisticated machines – only a simple saw, a
hammer and some nails.
The result is the hive showed in the following video you can
see in:
http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=j2Gx9ewmrmo
Thanks to Alvaro Ferrés de Montevideo, Uruguay, for your translation.
Thanks to all
God bless you and yours familys
Oscar Perone
Buenos Aires
Argentina
oscarperone@...
skype: oscarperone
blog: http://oscarperone.blogspot.com/
en portugues: http://oscarperonenportugues.blogspot.com/
foro: http://apiculturanatural.foroactivo.net
Question I have here is... would this be an acceptable practice here in the US??
The inspectors might have a field day with this because of the inability to
check for diseases & infestations & such.
Anyone in the US try this yet?? It does indeed sound intriguing (as well as
easier & less arguments with the girls on a bad day...)
Just curious...
Karen D.
--- In KEEPINGBEES@yahoogroups.com, "oscarperone@..." <oscarperone@...> wrote:
>
> Hi all,
>
> Steps for assembling a hive using the natural extensive beekeeping technique.
> We only use shallow supers (3/4), although a combination of supers of any
other
>
> sizes can be used.
> This way of assembling a hive is the best way to use the traditional
beekeeping
>
> equipment to give the bees what they dream; a huge hole where they can build
>
> an immense hive.
> VERY IMPORTANT:
> It is recommended that this hive is not touch until the bees collect the
>
> necessary reserves to complete the fourth super.
> Then each year, need only be open to harvest.
> Is automatic, no need beekeeper.
>
> You can see it on this site
>
> http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=PqVVIIP_PQk
>
> Thanks,
>
> Good bless you, and yours familys
>
> Oscar Perone
>
> Buenos Aires
> Argentina
> oscarperone@...
> skype: oscarperone
> blog: http://oscarperone.blogspot.com
> forum: http://apiculturanatural.foroactivo.net/
>
Hi all,
Steps for assembling a hive using the natural extensive beekeeping technique.
We only use shallow supers (3/4), although a combination of supers of any other
sizes can be used.
This way of assembling a hive is the best way to use the traditional beekeeping
equipment to give the bees what they dream; a huge hole where they can build
an immense hive.
VERY IMPORTANT:
It is recommended that this hive is not touch until the bees collect the
necessary reserves to complete the fourth super.
Then each year, need only be open to harvest.
Is automatic, no need beekeeper.
You can see it on this site
http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=PqVVIIP_PQk
Thanks,
Good bless you, and yours familys
Oscar Perone
Buenos Aires
Argentina
oscarperone@...
skype: oscarperone
blog: http://oscarperone.blogspot.com
forum: http://apiculturanatural.foroactivo.net/
Thanks to Silvana Castillo - Nova Scotia - Canada
NaturalBeekeepers@yahoogroups.com
for translating the text below
Hi all
Some of us believe that the bees will only build a big nest in a large hole
(and that that large area needs to be available year round). A large nest will
result in a large population of healthy bees and thus an abundant harvest of
honey. If we keep our hives small throughout the year, the bees will build a
small nest accordingly. For the bees to build a large nest in a small area
would not be logical, necessary nor economical.(Bees never do this)
It is only our expectation as beekeepers that a small nesting area will expand
when necessary.
This is the beekeeper's plan, not the bees' plan.
Bees are unaware of the beekeeper's plans and perform according to where they
are: a small hole. And from a small hole, one can only expect small results.
Please see this link
http://www.4shared.com/file/105385127/bd0ccfbf/beehive.html
For more information, please visit my blog
http://oscarperone.blogspot.com
God bless you and yours familys
Oscar Perone
Buenos Aires
Argentina
oscarperone@...
Includes approx. 550 hives, 2200 supers, 2 one ton trucks (1984 Dodge &
1987 Toyota),Bobcat 643 w/trailer, uncapper, slinger, plus other mis.
equipment.
Also, 54 barrels of Gallberry honey available.
OWNER WILL NOT FINANCE!
Contact Clyde Hannah at (912) 283-3086 for more information.
Hi Randy,
WHAT YOU ARE MOST LIKLY SEEING IS DAMAGE FROM A VIRUS THAT IS VECTORED BY
THE VARROA MITE.
YOU CAN HELP THE HIVE TO OVER COME IT BY FEEDING A ANTIBIOTIC AND TREAT FOR
THE MITES IF YOU HAVE THEM . YOU CAN HAVE THE VIRUS WITH VERY LOW MITE
POPULATION.IN THAT CASE YOU ARE BETTER NOTE TO TREAT BUT LIKE US BEES NEED TO
BE
HEALTHY TO FIGHT OFF A VIRUS....
THANKS
DAVID
[Non-text portions of this message have been removed]
I did a two frame split from of one my hives that made it through
another Michigan winter on Friday, April 21, and introduced a new
queen on Tuesday, April 25. I checked the hive today and the queen
has been released but I couldn't finder her. I went through each
frame a couple of times but still didn't finder her. Not uncommon for
me though. While looking through the hive I noticed a couple of bees
with deformed wings. I have to assume they came from the hive I split
from. I remember reading about deformed bees about three years ago
and for the life me I can't remember what was identified as the
cause. Can someone refresh my memory and recommend other things to
look for and/or treatment of the hive?
Randy Coleman
Southern Michigan
I'm in the same situation as you with eight hives and ten queens coming in
about four weeks. The thing I have on my side is a little bit of time. I'm
hoping within four weeks my hives will be strong enough to split creating a
total of 16 hives. The other two queens I will either replace two of my
weaker existing queens or contact a couple of local beekeepers to see if
they can use them. I'm not sure how long a queen will last but my guess
would be 3-7 days since she relies on the worker bees to feed and take care
of her.
Good Luck
Randy Coleman
Southern Michigan
-----Original Message-----
From: KEEPINGBEES@yahoogroups.com [mailto:KEEPINGBEES@yahoogroups.com] On
Behalf Of olopmac
Sent: Tuesday, March 28, 2006 3:08 PM
To: KEEPINGBEES@yahoogroups.com
Subject: [KEEPINGBEES] Queen Bee Question
OK, I need advice...
I was just told that the queens I ordered months ago are ready to
ship. Thing is, I've lost some hives since then. I'm going to have
two extra queens when all is said and done. Is there a way to keep
them alive for a few weeks, until I can provide hives for them?
So grateful for any suggestions--
--Chris
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Quoting olopmac <olopmac@...>:
> OK, I need advice...
>
> I was just told that the queens I ordered months ago are ready to
> ship. Thing is, I've lost some hives since then. I'm going to have
> two extra queens when all is said and done. Is there a way to keep
> them alive for a few weeks, until I can provide hives for them?
Your queens will survive simply by placing them in a colony so the bees
can feed
them but not get at them. If the cage has candy then you must block this off
with tap or something so as she and her attendants eat it out they are still
confined to the cage. JZBZ are an example of this type of cage.
Best though to get them on comb as quickly as possible. If you have the
bees you
can create small nucs to accommodate them. With two extra queen you can
make two
4 frame nuc for them. Take one or two frames of bee and brood from the active
hives you have for each nuc. give them a frame of honey. This will lower the
population of your main hives so you will get a better acceptance and get the
girls making more brood for you. Make sure you have enough bees to look after
the brood you put in. Leave most of the brood in the main hives.
If you have to do this in one yard screen the nuc so your bees don't go
back to
the hive you took them from. After 3 day you can let them go they will
have for
the most part forgotten the old location. As these will be small they
will need
watching. you may need to Boost them from the larger colonies as they expand.
Select a frame of capped brood, Shake the bees back into the hive and add them
to the smaller nucs. Replace with comb. This process will not set back
the main
hive much but will allow the smaller one to expand rapidly. Make sure you have
enough bees though in the nuc to keep the brood alive. As they are capped they
will just need to be kept warm. You may need to add bees if they are shy.
If you are not moving bee the shaking process makes sure you don't
transfer the
queen and keeps the bees in the main hive so not to weaken it. If you are
moving bees with the frame. Find the queen before you transfer bees and brood.
Spray the bees with a mist of light sugar water. This removes the smell of the
bee you are transferring and taking their means of smelling away. By the time
they lick of the spray they will have gotten to know each other and the smell
of the new queen will be transfered to them.
If you do this you will not loose any egg time waiting for equipment. Only a
small number of bees will be required to keep the queen alive. The more bees
you can spare the faster she will be able to lay. Saving you time in getting
your losses back on line.
Shanta McBain
Bee breeder
http://beemaster.ca
Online mentoring system Avaible
Host your site with us and save.
OK, I need advice...
I was just told that the queens I ordered months ago are ready to
ship. Thing is, I've lost some hives since then. I'm going to have
two extra queens when all is said and done. Is there a way to keep
them alive for a few weeks, until I can provide hives for them?
So grateful for any suggestions--
--Chris
My thoughts on some bee books (follow the link below), and some links
to buy them through Amazon (with the proceeds going to our club).
Also in libraries near you! If you have comments on the page (which
is still in its initial phases), I'd love to hear them. Likewise, if
you have comments about any of the books, let me know--it might be
cool to have several sets of comments for each book! --Chris
http://homes.hendrix.edu/campolo/book_reviews.htm
Thanks Roni.
Just so everyone knows, I'm not a professional beekeeper, not with only 6
hives. It's not something I've been doing for a long time either so this
list is a good teaching tool. We live in northern Wisconsin and alot of the
information is aimed at more southern beekeepers where I couldn't help
anyway.
This year was hot and dry, not much nectar so the bees didn't have much
surplus honey. How did everyone elses hives do?
Lisa
> Hi everyone. Lisa will now be a group owner. I will still remain a
> owner also but only from the background. Thank you Lisa. My son will
> keep 5 of our hives and the rest of the equipment and stuff will be
> sold. I just can't keep up with the business and 4 kids. I can still
> answer questions and such though. Thanks all
> Roni
Roni,
So sorry for your loss.
Chris Waters
----- Original Message -----
From: honeydeer1
To: KEEPINGBEES@yahoogroups.com
Sent: Monday, September 19, 2005 11:13 PM
Subject: [KEEPINGBEES] New list owner
Hi everyone. Lisa will now be a group owner. I will still remain a
owner also but only from the background. Thank you Lisa. My son will
keep 5 of our hives and the rest of the equipment and stuff will be
sold. I just can't keep up with the business and 4 kids. I can still
answer questions and such though. Thanks all
Roni
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[Non-text portions of this message have been removed]
Please do not open any attachments from me today, the network has a virus and it
has made its way onto my computer.
[Non-text portions of this message have been removed]
Hi everyone. Lisa will now be a group owner. I will still remain a
owner also but only from the background. Thank you Lisa. My son will
keep 5 of our hives and the rest of the equipment and stuff will be
sold. I just can't keep up with the business and 4 kids. I can still
answer questions and such though. Thanks all
Roni
Anyone have experience with sucrocide against varroa destructor? I've
only got a few hives, so I'm not worried about the extra time it will
take. But I'd like to know if there's anything I should know about or
watch out for. Thanks--
--Chris
Roni, please know you are in our thoughts and prayers. My heartfelt
sympathies to you and the kids.
I'll take over the list if you'll make me an owner/moderator. Just send me
an email and I'll do what needs to be done.
Take care and know you're thought of.
Lisa
> Hi all,
> I am the owner of this list. My husband Bruce Pasted away on
> September 3rd from stomach cancer. Would anyone on this list be
> interested in taking over the running of this list. It is really easy
> all you have to do is approve of people who want to join. Please
> email back if you want to
> Roni
Hi all,
I am the owner of this list. My husband Bruce Pasted away on
September 3rd from stomach cancer. Would anyone on this list be
interested in taking over the running of this list. It is really easy
all you have to do is approve of people who want to join. Please
email back if you want to
Roni
On May 3, 2005 09:03 am, dstahleker wrote:
> I found a single bee in my basement yesterday. Although it is May, I
> live in Ohio, and our temperatures the last few days have not risen
> above 45 degrees. While looking online, I read that carpenter bees
> will often burrow into homes.
This is to lay their young.
> The bee that I found was alone... no
> other bees have been found. I also read that during these cold weather
> months, many bees are in hibernation.
Honey bees do not hibernate.
> This particular bee did not move
> very much, so I am assuming that it is still hibernating? I took him
> outside and put him on one of my flowers outside.
This may be due to the fact that it is cold in the basement and needs to warm
to move.
> He still was not
She. worker honey bees are she. The male is keeparound only for mating in
case the queen goes bad and they need to replace her.
> moving (although I am positive that he was alive, because he was
> buzzing at me.) but eventually left my front porch. I am concerned
> only because my husband is severely allergic to bee stings. With
> springtime upon us, we planned to fix foundation problems, and he will
> spend quite a bit of time down there. Should I be concerned about
> finding a hive? Any information would greatly be appreciated.
For a single honey be to warm up to fly may take sometime. Other bee such as
bumble bees take much colder temps.
As for what bee you had in your basement?
We would need to have a better description. We firest need to determin if it
was a honey bee, bubble or wasp.
Wasps are not bees. Yet most including meds think they are one in the same.
Wasp allergies are the most common allergy. Apis (honeybees) very few are
allergic. honey bee venom is actually vary good for the immune system and
auto immune disorders.
--
Thanks
Shanta McBain
Bee Breeder
http://shanta.org/Apis a general view of beekeeping. This is a user
contributed site. Hosting for your site also can be provided.
http://shanta.org/ecf The site Eagle Creek Farms: Apis
Queens, Swarms (Queen and all her bee in your box). Pollination services for
the Okanagan Corridor BC Canada. Organic operations preferred.
On June 6, 2005 09:12 am, olopmac wrote:
> I'm very new and inexperienced--I've got two hives, and one of them
> looks like every picture in every book of how a hive should look. The
> other one is...different. It has changed queens a few times, been at
> times very cross, at time very gentle, has been sometimes full of
> capped brood and sometimes not so much, and in weird patterns...
There are several things that can effect a queens temperament. Some are
genetic and others are environmental.
If the temperament of the hive is due to genetics it will with exceptions be
due to the queens genetics and age. It may have come from stock that is
aggressive if. This would manifest itself as the general overall temperament.
As the queen mated with many drones the temperament of individual bees will
vary to the genetic temperament of both queen in the colony and the queen
that sired the drone.
Randon temperament change is more likely due to environmental influences. Such
as your actions and temperament in the hive. A pest bothering the hive. The
weather. Is there something wrong in the hive. Disease, a failing queen, no
space for the queen to lay????
Which drones eggs are being laid.
Generally though we can assume that is some combination of all of the above.
Some you can change like your actions in the to other like the weather you
have no choice as to what can be done other than buttoning up and forging on.
Others like a bad or failing queen just replace her. Get a queen from a good
breeder for this.
> OK, so weird hive has two deep bodies, then one super (full) of
> over-wintered honey, then a queen excluder, and then a sorrowfully
> empty super on top. The hive is full of bees. The current queen has
> been in for about a month.
Dose she have any brood? If so what dose it look like? Dose She have a place
to lay?
> When I opened the upper of the two hive deeps, I found several frames
> of new capped honey--both sides, every square centimeter. In fact,
> the cells the honey is in, newly drawn, extend out so far that very
> little comb can be drawn on adjacent frames--there just isn't room!
> It just seems odd--they have an entire super of their own honey that
> they're not touching.
So what is the honey like in the brood chamber?
Please describe the condition of the brood portion of the nest?
Are there eggs?
Is the pattern spotty?
What is the drone cell level? Those bulbous ones not the standard comb ones.
Is there close resources? Pollen? Honey?
How many combs of brood?
How many combs of bees?
Have you disease such as AFB?
What are the mite levels?
--
Thanks
Shanta McBain
Bee Breeder
http://shanta.org/Apis a general view of beekeeping. This is a user
contributed site. Hosting for your site also can be provided.
http://shanta.org/ecf The site Eagle Creek Farms: Apis
Queens, Swarms (Queen and all her bee in your box). Pollination services for
the Okanagan Corridor BC Canada. Organic operations preferred.
Chris,
First of all, where do you live? Your physical lcation goes a long way
towards answering questions you have.
What do you mean about several queens? Did you re-queen, or was there
a swarm(s) with a new queen hatching out in the hive? Often, a noisy hive
indicates a quenless condition, as well as some cranky behavior. Also, the
excess honey can be a sign of queenless conditions, or internal disease, like
foulbrood? Do both hives smell the same?
Some bees just don't like queen excluders and will not go up if there
is room for storage below. YOu could pull the excluder to see what happens.
WJPowers
Waxhaw, NC
[Non-text portions of this message have been removed]
Chris,
I am a little confused but what is new. So you have double deep brood
supers??!! Only one queen at present??!!
If you choose to have double deep brood chambers then your queen extruder should
go on top of the deeps and the shallow with honey on top of that, though why you
haven't taken it off and extracted it I don't know,but if you decide to leave it
with the bees then do that but take that deep that is on the top and move it
down and the shallow up. They are looking for somewhere to store honey. They eat
stored honey during the winter. I don't know where you live but hopefully you
want what they are finding in way of necter now. How many frames do you have in
the deep that has a few over drawn frames in it? Is it all drawn out comb or is
it new?? If you are worried that you are going to have a wax mess as in creative
wax making take those two frames out and extract them. I don't know if you run 9
or 10 frame boxes for honey, but if the frames are all new and not drawn out
then push them all together in the center of the box and they will pull them out
and fill them.
Hope that helped?
Chris Waters
----- Original Message -----
From: olopmac
To: KEEPINGBEES@yahoogroups.com
Sent: Monday, June 06, 2005 12:12 PM
Subject: [KEEPINGBEES] Is this weird?
I'm very new and inexperienced--I've got two hives, and one of them
looks like every picture in every book of how a hive should look. The
other one is...different. It has changed queens a few times, been at
times very cross, at time very gentle, has been sometimes full of
capped brood and sometimes not so much, and in weird patterns...
OK, so weird hive has two deep bodies, then one super (full) of
over-wintered honey, then a queen excluder, and then a sorrowfully
empty super on top. The hive is full of bees. The current queen has
been in for about a month.
When I opened the upper of the two hive deeps, I found several frames
of new capped honey--both sides, every square centimeter. In fact,
the cells the honey is in, newly drawn, extend out so far that very
little comb can be drawn on adjacent frames--there just isn't room!
It just seems odd--they have an entire super of their own honey that
they're not touching.
There are no pictures of this sort of thing in books. Am I just
seeing a normal variation here, or is there something to diagnose...?
Many thanks for thoughts, ideas, reflections, etc.
--Chris
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