--- In Lister_CSOG@yahoogroups.com, "Mike Hill" <mandahill@...> wrote:
>
> The way Lister promulgated their preferred method in the manual
which they
> issued to their service engineers, assuming that the head was off,
was as
> follows....
>
> Place two tubular spacers on diagonal studs, and nip the block down
lightly.
>
> Place straightedge across top of block and measure clearance
between piston
> crown and straightedge at TDC.
>
> Clearance should be in the region of .005" measured with feeler
gauge.
>
> If not, add or subtract paper gaskets under block to suit.
>
> This method saves fitting and removing he head.
>
> Then I suggest you use the solder method as a check on final
assembly.
>
> Hope it helps.
>
> Mike.
>
Many thanks Mike for the advice, i will give it a go this weekend,
thanks to all who replied, regards Ian

--- In Lister_CSOG@yahoogroups.com, nick booth <nickbooth56@...> wrote:
  can any one  please advise on how to adjust cs6 startomatic ,governer ---

Is this the generator or the engine?

Could be anything from slipping belts, tight or worn IP linkage, IP been rebuilt
with rack in wrong(?)position, wrong rate governor spring or problems with
weights in the governor.

You just need to check through and make sure every thing is working as it should
and give a few more details, like does it run OK with the load, then plus a
little more, how many Hz does it drop to?  Does it 'black smoke' when pulling
back to normal speed?  What load will it carry with ease?

More details might ellicit more responses, which are a bit thin on the ground at
present.

Regards, RAB

Hi Lads, Can anyone give me some advise concerning a APS SmartUps 5000
inverter.This inverter/Ups has 2x16 amp and 8x10amp output sockets.
  I'm hoping to run my setup off a 48 volt forklift battery,which will be charged
with the CS6/1 Lister.
  The setup is in my workshop and I will need to install a change over switch in
the house to switch over.
  It obviously would be impracticable to run multiple feeds to the house.
  My question is:- can some of the inverter outputs be joined in parallel
to give me a single output up to the maximum inverter load (22 amps)?
  The lad that sold me the inverter says yes.The lad that sells them on eBay says
no!
  I've had a test run with an extension lead to the washing machine using a
temory connection to the 16 amp socket and the inverter works fine - I just
don't want to bust it!

ive not long had my cs6 startomatic,and have been looking at videos of them on u
tube,mine is set up on ex MOD small 4 wheeled bogy trailer,and it rocks like
hell compared to others,ive  dial guaged inner and outer faces there both out
by.75mm  circ is ok,crank dials up fine,has any one machined one in situ
,affixing lathe toolpost to engine and  start engine to proceed cutting, when
done i was going to ballence by putting 2 inch bar trough wheel and resting in 2
bearings either end,spinning and adding weight as required ,same as motor cycle
wheel,but 3 holes in fly wheel is bound to make it unbalanced because there is
solid cast opposite the smaller hole,am i rite in thinking that this hole is at
TDC to help  with power stroke,if it wants a weight opperset this will it 
cancell out any benifit of having it in the first place any assistance would be
appreacted

<<<<ive not long had my cs6 startomatic,and have been looking at videos of them
on u tube,mine is set up on ex MOD small 4 wheeled bogy trailer,and it rocks
like hell compared to others>>>>

First - balance.  You can perfectly balance out the vertical forces of the
piston-crank assembly.  However, that would cause a severe crankshaft imbalance
at 9 o'clock and 3 o'clock.  So it is impossible to balance out all forces at
the same time.  That said, Lister suggested bolting to a substantial frame on a
substantial concrete base.  A small trailer does not fit that description.

Regarding machining the flywheels.  Not sure what you expect from a casting but
I would consider very carefully any benefits of machining metal from a flywheel.

RAB

--- In Lister_CSOG@yahoogroups.com, "nickbooth56" <nickbooth56@...> wrote:
>
> ive not long had my cs6 startomatic,and have been looking at videos of them on
u tube,mine is set up on ex MOD small 4 wheeled bogy trailer,and it rocks like
hell compared to others,ive  dial guaged inner and outer faces there both out
by.75mm  circ is ok,crank dials up fine,has any one machined one in situ
,affixing lathe toolpost to engine and  start engine to proceed cutting, when
done i was going to ballence by putting 2 inch bar trough wheel and resting in 2
bearings either end,spinning and adding weight as required ,same as motor cycle
wheel,but 3 holes in fly wheel is bound to make it unbalanced because there is
solid cast opposite the smaller hole,am i rite in thinking that this hole is at
TDC to help  with power stroke,if it wants a weight opperset this will it 
cancell out any benifit of having it in the first place any assistance would be
appreacted
>
The flywheels are not balanced in themselves, they have additional weight to
counterbalance the piston and conrod as the crankshaft does not have
counterbalance. Any machining you do to the flywheels will likely worsen the
balance.

  Steve

   Steve

It's a 5 digit number so it'll be pre 1951

working out dates and spec from nameplates is notoriously difficult for engines
built before 1951, David Edgington wrote a book that gives info on how to date
early CS engines
http://www.stationaryenginebooks.co.uk/lister.htm

and there is also some info on Peter and Rita forbes website for pre '51 engines
http://www.oldengine.org/members/diesel/EngineDating/Dating.htm

Also if you look on the flywheel and on the side opposite to the injection pump,
and just above the crankshaft bearing housing you should find a foundry casting
mark.

It will be something like 9-A-53

This is the month and year that the flywheel/crankcase was cast.
Where:-
9 is the batch number (or maybe build day)
A is the month, where A=Jan, B=Feb C= Mar etc
53 is the year.

junk and disorderly
Chug

--- In Lister_CSOG@yahoogroups.com, "snoozycs" <snoozycs@...> wrote:
>
> Hello, could anyone tell me what the numbers on the Ident plate means,
> especially the spec?
>

Has anyone had new flywheels made up so as to do away with the cast
factory wheels, i've been thinking of having a friend turn out some new wheel
out of solid steel or cast new ones and clean them up and balance them to the
engine,the flywheels seem to be a point of problems

--- In Lister_CSOG@yahoogroups.com, "stevedewin" <stevedewin@...> wrote:
>
> --- In Lister_CSOG@yahoogroups.com, "nickbooth56" <nickbooth56@> wrote:
> >
> > ive not long had my cs6 startomatic,and have been looking at videos of them
on u tube,mine is set up on ex MOD small 4 wheeled bogy trailer,and it rocks
like hell compared to others,ive  dial guaged inner and outer faces there both
out by.75mm  circ is ok,crank dials up fine,has any one machined one in situ
,affixing lathe toolpost to engine and  start engine to proceed cutting, when
done i was going to ballence by putting 2 inch bar trough wheel and resting in 2
bearings either end,spinning and adding weight as required ,same as motor cycle
wheel,but 3 holes in fly wheel is bound to make it unbalanced because there is
solid cast opposite the smaller hole,am i rite in thinking that this hole is at
TDC to help  with power stroke,if it wants a weight opperset this will it 
cancell out any benifit of having it in the first place any assistance would be
appreacted
> >
> The flywheels are not balanced in themselves, they have additional weight to
counterbalance the piston and conrod as the crankshaft does not have
counterbalance. Any machining you do to the flywheels will likely worsen the
balance.
>
>  Steve
>
>   Steve
>

--- In Lister_CSOG@yahoogroups.com, "tattyvest" <eddiewinter@...> wrote:
>
> Hi Lads, Can anyone give me some advise concerning a APS SmartUps 5000
> inverter.This inverter/Ups has 2x16 amp and 8x10amp output sockets.
>  I'm hoping to run my setup off a 48 volt forklift battery,which will be
charged with the CS6/1 Lister.
>  The setup is in my workshop and I will need to install a change over switch
in the house to switch over.
>  It obviously would be impracticable to run multiple feeds to the house.
>  My question is:- can some of the inverter outputs be joined in parallel
> to give me a single output up to the maximum inverter load (22 amps)?
>  The lad that sold me the inverter says yes.The lad that sells them on eBay
says no!
>  I've had a test run with an extension lead to the washing machine using a
temory connection to the 16 amp socket and the inverter works fine - I just
don't want to bust it!
>

You will need to contact the APS about their UPS wiring.  There may be a sketch
inside the covers of the UPS.  If you parallel the wrong outlet, you can smoke
the whole thing.

tattyvest wrote:
> Hi Lads, Can anyone give me some advise concerning a APS SmartUps 5000
> inverter.This inverter/Ups has 2x16 amp and 8x10amp output sockets.
>  I'm hoping to run my setup off a 48 volt forklift battery,which will be
charged with the CS6/1 Lister.
>  The setup is in my workshop and I will need to install a change over switch
in the house to switch over.
>  It obviously would be impracticable to run multiple feeds to the house.
>  My question is:- can some of the inverter outputs be joined in parallel
> to give me a single output up to the maximum inverter load (22 amps)?
>  The lad that sold me the inverter says yes.The lad that sells them on eBay
says no!
>  I've had a test run with an extension lead to the washing machine using a
temory connection to the 16 amp socket and the inverter works fine - I just
don't want to bust it!


Just for a silly suggestion, APC has a web site, there is technical
support there.  Ask them!

--
David G. LeVine
Nashua, NH  03060

mastertech1995 wrote:
> Has anyone had new flywheels made up so as to do away with the cast
> factory wheels, i've been thinking of having a friend turn out some new wheel
out of solid steel or cast new ones and clean them up and balance them to the
engine,the flywheels seem to be a point of problems

Be careful, flywheel failures are very bad!  Unless your friend has NDT
tools, you will need to x-ray or ultrasound (or other means) to verify
there are no internal points for failure.  A blown flywheel can (and
has) killed people.  The loads can get surprisingly high!

--
David G. LeVine
Nashua, NH  03060

Fully aware of the dangers but thanks for the reminder, my buddy is in
aerospace engineering so the equipment is available to saftey check
and balance them just did'nt know if someone already traveled down
this road thanks !

--- In Lister_CSOG@yahoogroups.com, David LeVine <dlevine144@...> wrote:

>
> mastertech1995 wrote:
> > Has anyone had new flywheels made up so as to do away with the cast
> > factory wheels, i've been thinking of having a friend turn out some new
wheel out of solid steel or cast new ones and clean them up and balance them to
the engine,the flywheels seem to be a point of problems
>
> Be careful, flywheel failures are very bad!  Unless your friend has NDT
> tools, you will need to x-ray or ultrasound (or other means) to verify
> there are no internal points for failure.  A blown flywheel can (and
> has) killed people.  The loads can get surprisingly high!
>
> --
> David G. LeVine
> Nashua, NH  03060
>

Hi all,

I like the sound of strobe balancing but know nothing about it.
Any pointers or links to further info would be much appreciated.

I am currently rebuilding my CS 5Hp, I am at the cylinder head
currently and have been chiseling 70 years of calcification out
of the cooling ports!! Now they are open what would be the best
way to flush/chemically remove the rest?

Dave in 1066 country



> If your bud is in Aerospace Engineering  then have him put a Strobe
> on it and dynamically balance it. We do it to recip and turbine
> engines all the time. That way the whole engine is balanced.

Can anyone please help? i have recently bought a 6hp lister startomatic. i have
just had the alternator rebuilt new wiring etc i have installed it and have
wired it back to what i thought were the correct places.even after taking
photo`s and drawings it seems i am doing something wrong .i am no electrician
and am totally confused. Is there anyone who understands the electrical layout
that can come and fix this problem. i have the means to transport the unit to
your place and will pay whatever to get this system going. i live in the
Aylesbury area. i have 4 lister cs`s this is the only startomatic and its a
lovely 1`st class machine and would dearly love to put it back to
order.01296770102 07745594690. thanks

--- In Lister_CSOG@yahoogroups.com, "Mike Burgess" <mike_burgess@...> wrote:
>
> --- In Lister_CSOG@yahoogroups.com, "tattyvest" <eddiewinter@> wrote:
> >
> > Hi Lads, Can anyone give me some advise concerning a APS SmartUps 5000
> > inverter.This inverter/Ups has 2x16 amp and 8x10amp output sockets.
> >  I'm hoping to run my setup off a 48 volt forklift battery,which will be
charged with the CS6/1 Lister.
> >  The setup is in my workshop and I will need to install a change over switch
in the house to switch over.
> >  It obviously would be impracticable to run multiple feeds to the house.
> >  My question is:- can some of the inverter outputs be joined in parallel
> > to give me a single output up to the maximum inverter load (22 amps)?
> >  The lad that sold me the inverter says yes.The lad that sells them on eBay
says no!
> >  I've had a test run with an extension lead to the washing machine using a
temory connection to the 16 amp socket and the inverter works fine - I just
don't want to bust it!
> >
>
> You will need to contact the APS about their UPS wiring.  There may be a
sketch inside the covers of the UPS.  If you parallel the wrong outlet, you can
smoke the whole thing.

Thanks for that.I've found that a 16 amp single feed to the house will run all
the light load stuff.I just need to be selective with the
washer,immersion etc.
>

--- In Lister_CSOG@yahoogroups.com, David LeVine <dlevine144@...> wrote:
>
> tattyvest wrote:
> > Hi Lads, Can anyone give me some advise concerning a APS SmartUps 5000
> > inverter.This inverter/Ups has 2x16 amp and 8x10amp output sockets.
> >  I'm hoping to run my setup off a 48 volt forklift battery,which will be
charged with the CS6/1 Lister.
> >  The setup is in my workshop and I will need to install a change over switch
in the house to switch over.
> >  It obviously would be impracticable to run multiple feeds to the house.
> >  My question is:- can some of the inverter outputs be joined in parallel
> > to give me a single output up to the maximum inverter load (22 amps)?
> >  The lad that sold me the inverter says yes.The lad that sells them on eBay
says no!
> >  I've had a test run with an extension lead to the washing machine using a
temory connection to the 16 amp socket and the inverter works fine - I just
don't want to bust it!
>
>
> Just for a silly suggestion, APC has a web site, there is technical
> support there.  Ask them!
>
> --
> David G. LeVine
> Nashua, NH  03060
>
  Hi David,Thanks for that.APC are not keen to offer advice on a non standard set
up,but I have found that a 16 amp supply to the house will run all the light
stuff and I just need to be selective with higher loads,washing machine etc.

Hello tattyvest

I got one of these units and you can put the outlets in parallel, but I
would open up the unit and replace the outlet sockets with a more
suitable connector like the 32 amp IEC connectors on a custom plate
where the old sockets were. When you open it up it will become quite
apparent what to do, they're good units and will serve you well...

Are you going to charge the battery from a PMG or a modified truck
alternator?


The UPS has a charger built in but I'm not sure powerful it is, and it
won't be able to fully charge a standard flooded lead acid battery
because the charge voltage is set to low to prevent boiling in the
normally used sealed lead acid batteries it is built for. The charging
current is likely to be to low for a fork lift battery as well...


I got mine of eBay and was intending connecting up a external fork lift
battery but never found one and then kind of forgot about it...


The UPS have a fast change-over switch built in, so you could feed some
of your house (lights, ventilation, central heating, alarm) directly
from the UPS via a secondary consumer unit, you should put a lockable
manual change over switch in between the output of the UPS and secondary
consumer unit and label it up properly so you don't fry someone because
they think the secondary panel is fed directly from the main panel and
not the UPS!




tattyvest wrote:
>
> Hi Lads, Can anyone give me some advise concerning a APS SmartUps 5000
> inverter.This inverter/Ups has 2x16 amp and 8x10amp output sockets.
> I'm hoping to run my setup off a 48 volt forklift battery,which will
> be charged with the CS6/1 Lister.
> The setup is in my workshop and I will need to install a change over
> switch in the house to switch over.
> It obviously would be impracticable to run multiple feeds to the house.
> My question is:- can some of the inverter outputs be joined in parallel
> to give me a single output up to the maximum inverter load (22 amps)?
> The lad that sold me the inverter says yes.The lad that sells them on
> eBay says no!
> I've had a test run with an extension lead to the washing machine
> using a temory connection to the 16 amp socket and the inverter works
> fine - I just don't want to bust it!
>
>

Hi Russell,

Thanks for the information, I have done a little web searching
and I see how it works. I had in mind the accelerometer chips
made by ANALOG DEVICES for a diy kit, they have 2 axis devices
quite cheap!! ( yet another project.......). I think that if the
engine is not that smooth then it would make sense to do a
dynamic balance. I fancy playing with the accelerometers any way !!

Thanks

Dave

Hi Michael,

Ok on the flushing solution for heating circuits, I happen to
have a container to hand, I had'nt thought of that, thanks.
It ought to work very well, but I do know that it can eat cast
iron very quickly if forgotten about.....PAST EXPERIENCE.
so will have to monitor closely!!!

cheers

Dave in Hastings.

I obtained a wiring diagram etc. from this site under files. Am also
interested to get full info (as an accountant) these diagrams are a
mission. Mine is also "barely" working.
--- In Lister_CSOG@yahoogroups.com, nick booth <nickbooth56@...> wrote:
>
> allen if in the course of getting your wireing sorted and manage to
find a drawing of all electrial components,and the ohms and resestances
of  the many parts  i would pay towards it with you,as mine is working
but most wires are only hanging on by a thread,broken insulation etc,i
dare not touch it  its all crumbling away--- On Sat, 14/3/09, allen
allengraves@... wrote:
>
> From: allen allengraves@...
> Subject: [Lister_CSOG] lister startomatic
> To: Lister_CSOG@yahoogroups.com
> Date: Saturday, 14 March, 2009, 12:06 PM
>
>
>
>
>
>
> Can anyone please help? i have recently bought a 6hp lister
startomatic. i have just had the alternator rebuilt new wiring etc i
have installed it and have wired it back to what i thought were the
correct places.even after taking photo`s and drawings it seems i am
doing something wrong .i am no electrician and am totally confused. Is
there anyone who understands the electrical layout that can come and fix
this problem. i have the means to transport the unit to your place and
will pay whatever to get this system going. i live in the Aylesbury
area. i have 4 lister cs`s this is the only startomatic and its a lovely
1`st class machine and would dearly love to put it back to
order.01296770102 07745594690. thanks
>

--- In Lister_CSOG@yahoogroups.com, Morten Mortensen <mormor@...> wrote:
>
> Hello tattyvest
>
> I got one of these units and you can put the outlets in parallel, but I
> would open up the unit and replace the outlet sockets with a more
> suitable connector like the 32 amp IEC connectors on a custom plate
> where the old sockets were. When you open it up it will become quite
> apparent what to do, they're good units and will serve you well...
>
> Are you going to charge the battery from a PMG or a modified truck
> alternator?
>
>
> The UPS has a charger built in but I'm not sure powerful it is, and it
> won't be able to fully charge a standard flooded lead acid battery
> because the charge voltage is set to low to prevent boiling in the
> normally used sealed lead acid batteries it is built for. The charging
> current is likely to be to low for a fork lift battery as well...
>
>
> I got mine of eBay and was intending connecting up a external fork lift
> battery but never found one and then kind of forgot about it...
>
>
> The UPS have a fast change-over switch built in, so you could feed some
> of your house (lights, ventilation, central heating, alarm) directly
> from the UPS via a secondary consumer unit, you should put a lockable
> manual change over switch in between the output of the UPS and secondary
> consumer unit and label it up properly so you don't fry someone because
> they think the secondary panel is fed directly from the main panel and
> not the UPS!

Hi,Thanks a lot for that.You can't beat getting info from someone who has been
down the same road!
  I have found that the single 16 amp UPS output will run the light loads (no pun
intended!)no problem.But following your comments, I can now wire the two 16 amp
sockets in parallel to give me a bit of extra capacity.The inverter has a 22 amp
maximum load so providing I'm selective with the heavier loads I should be OK.
I'm hoping to charge my battery bank with an ex forklift shunt wound hydraulic
pump motor run as a generator, (when I can find one!)with a field rheostat to
regulate the output.With the large battery capacity and regular charging I think
the Lister 6/1 will easily cope with say 45 amps of output.It would be nice to
use a 48 volt alternator with built in regulation, but they are very difficult
to find.
>
>
>
>
> tattyvest wrote:
> >
> > Hi Lads, Can anyone give me some advise concerning a APS SmartUps 5000
> > inverter.This inverter/Ups has 2x16 amp and 8x10amp output sockets.
> > I'm hoping to run my setup off a 48 volt forklift battery,which will
> > be charged with the CS6/1 Lister.
> > The setup is in my workshop and I will need to install a change over
> > switch in the house to switch over.
> > It obviously would be impracticable to run multiple feeds to the house.
> > My question is:- can some of the inverter outputs be joined in parallel
> > to give me a single output up to the maximum inverter load (22 amps)?
> > The lad that sold me the inverter says yes.The lad that sells them on
> > eBay says no!
> > I've had a test run with an extension lead to the washing machine
> > using a temory connection to the 16 amp socket and the inverter works
> > fine - I just don't want to bust it!
> >
> >
>

The fan probably takes about a third if it has a pump included or less if just a
plain fan.  No, a 6HP engine will never run a 7HP output (5kW)even if there were
no efficiency losses.
You can easily make 20A -just put the output through a step-down transformer to
110V.  That 2.5kW (3kVA) machine is sized correctly for the engine.
Use any thermostat and thermo switch from a car. 80 - 88 Celsius will do -
hotter the engine runs, without boiling, the better, really.

RAB