Mike, It's very common for a medium power objective to
become "contaminated" with (usually) oil. When it's there inside,
it's very hard to see. The displaced iris image also tell me that
there is an oil problem. Usually, those objectives are not sealed
like the oil objectives. Glad to hear that the seller is being so
responsible, That's good news! Now, how about those diatoms! Arthur


--- In Microscope@yahoogroups.com, Mike <hml@...> wrote:
>
> Thanks for your wisdom, Arthur, and thanks to the others who have
> responded. The issue is now moot, as the seller informed me that he
has
> already mailed me two replacements to examine and return the two
that I
> don't want to keep. I don't think I've had better response than
that.
>
> But, based on your detailed description of possible stumbling
blocks, I
> was already having misgivings about the thought of attempting
repair
> myself. I have always liked taking things apart to see what made
them
> tick, but in this instance I was more interested in a working 40x
lens.
> Not having detailed drawings, instructions, and jigs, etc. made me
even
> more wary.
>
> I'm still curious, though, about what might be the problem with
this
> lens. I've cleaned both the front and the back lens surfaces, and
both
> look the same as the good 1023 I already had. But, the view through
this
> one never gives a satisfactory focus. The image looks "smeary," and
the
> centering of the field iris is way different from the good lens.
Does
> that describe a lens where the internal interfaces have broken or
slipped?
>
> I apologize to everyone for not having a question about diatoms,
but I'm
> not to that point, yet. :-\
>
> -Mike Lafleur
>
> Arthur wrote:
> >
> > Objective repair is tedious work. Normally, an experienced worker
> > would have a jig for a particular objective. This jig would allow
> > holding the lens mounts and glass so that each lens can be rotated
> > and shimmed for optimum resolution, thus being able to build up
the
> > objective. A novice in this work would not have access to the jigs
> > and equipment involved, so we have to rely on the original factory
> > build. Meaning that when you remove the lens stack from the
objective
> > barrel you need to scribe a fine line down the stack so that you
can
> > put each lens back in the proper orientation. Some lens stacks are
> > accessed by removing the outer objective cover and others by
removing
> > the retaining ring in the rear and sliding the stack out. BE
CAREFUL.
> > Make sure each lens with it's scribed line lines up with all the
> > other lines. Take notes!!! The order and shims must be written
down
> > or you chance losing everything. I wouldn't try this on an
objective
> > unless your willing to write off the whole exercise (and
objective)
> > as a learning experience. Don't get frustrated, take a break if
you
> > need to. In my experience, you have a 40/60 chance of rebuilding
your
> > objective and retaining at least decent resolution. If not....
well,
> > you tried! Arthur
> >
> > --- In Microscope@yahoogroups.com
> > <mailto:Microscope%40yahoogroups.com>, "Steve Neeley" <psneeley@>
> > wrote:
> > >
> > > I agree. I didn't mean to say that you shouldn't try if they
have
> > > the desire to do so.
> > >
> > > On the other hand, where would one start? Guidelines on how to
do
> > > these things are very rare. What people like me (Yes, I'm a
> > Klutz :-
> > > ) ) need is a walk-through on how to approach these sorts
> > > of 'repairs'
> > >
> > >
> > > --- In Microscope@yahoogroups.com
> > <mailto:Microscope%40yahoogroups.com>, gcouger@ wrote:
> > > >
> > > > Steve,
> > > >
> > > > Everyone should try something like rebuilding a oil immersion
> > > objective. It make us appreciate those that do. And if we have
the
> > > patents to get the job done we learn a lot good about
ourselves. I
> > > expect we learn a lot about ourselves either way but it may not
be
> > > good.
> > > >
> > > > If you will take
> > >
> >
tiiiiiiiiiiiiiiiiiiiiiiiiiiiiiiiimmmmmmmmmmmmmmmmmmmeeeeeeeeeeeeeeeeee
> > > e to understand what you want to do, tiiiiiiiiiiime to take it
> > apart,
> > > Tiiiiiiiiiiiiiiiiime to clean it and time to put it together you
> > may
> > > be surprised what you can do.
> > > >
> > > > Many of us think we never have time to do some difficult jobs.
> > The
> > > fellow that does them may not be any better at than you hi is
just
> > > willig to spend the time to do the work.
> > > >
> > > > On afternoon at the lab were I worked something broke at 5:00
> > p.m.
> > > that would take 12 hours to fix that they needed for a meeting
at
> > > 8:00 am. for a meeting. They were all in twitter on what to do.
I
> > > sent them home and went to work and had ready to go 20 minutes
> > > before show time. Every one there could have done the same thing
> > but
> > > they were 9 to 5 ers and never even thought of working all
night.
> > > >
> > > > Everyone of you can learn to make things the way I did take it
> > > apart and put it back together. I suggest you start with
> > inexpensive
> > > stuff as you will have mistakes. But you sure lean form those
> > > mistakes.
> > > >
> > > > Gordon
> > > >
> > > > ----- Original Message ----
> > > > From: Steve Neeley <psneeley@>
> > > > To: Microscope@yahoogroups.com <mailto:Microscope%
40yahoogroups.com>
> > > > Sent: Tuesday, November 20, 2007 11:26:14 PM
> > > > Subject: [Microscope] Re: AO 1023 40X Plan-Achro Problem
> > > >
> > > > very likely, it is dried immersion oil. But if it is not on
the
> > > > lens, then I can only assume it invaded the internals. Eldred
> > > Spell,
> > > > a member of this group, actually has repaired AO objectives (I
> > > don't
> > > > know if the 1023 was one of them though). Eldred is a super
> > > > machinist and craftsman, so the fact that he can do it does
not
> > > mean
> > > > someone like me, for instance, can.
> > > >
> > > > --- In Microscope@yahoogroups.com
> > <mailto:Microscope%40yahoogroups.com>, Mike <hml@> wrote:
> > > > >
> > > > > Thanks, Steve. That's the same information that is in my 110
> > > > manual,
> > > > > which I followed (Thanks for the manual, btw.), and the lens
> > > looks
> > > > clean
> > > > > and problem free using my AO40 stereoscope, as does the back
> > > lens.
> > > > Their
> > > > > clean appearance but non-focus-ability is what makes me
wonder
> > if
> > > a
> > > > more
> > > > > adventuresome cleaning would be warranted, and whether a
novice
> > > > should
> > > > > attempt it.
> > > > >
> > > > > Do you think that crystalline material might be Canada
Balsam,
> > > and
> > > > that
> > > > > Xylene would dissolve it? Even if it did, the gunk is not on
> > the
> > > > small
> > > > > concave surface.
> > > > >
> > > > > -Mike
> > > > >
> > > > > Steve Neeley wrote:
> > > > > >
> > > > > > Instructions for cleaning the Cat# 1023 Plan-Achro
(it "has a
> > > > concave
> > > > > > front lens with a short radius of curvature") are found in
> > the
> > > > 1974
> > > > > > Series 10 manual, page 18. See here:
> > > > > > http://xmission.com/~psneeley/Personal/Series10%206-
74.zip
> > <http://xmission.com/%7Epsneeley/Personal/Series10%206-74.zip>
> > > > > > <http://xmission.com/%7Epsneeley/Personal/Series10%206-
74.zip
> > <http://xmission.com/%7Epsneeley/Personal/Series10%206-74.zip>>
> > > > > >
> > > > > > Yes, try Xylene (again following the directions above).
> > > > > >
> > > > > > Hope this helps,
> > > > > >
> > > > > > Steve
> > > > > >
> > > > > > --- In Microscope@yahoogroups.com
> > <mailto:Microscope%40yahoogroups.com>
> > > > > > <mailto:Microscope%40yahoogroups.com>, "mikeyl039" <hml@>
> > wrote:
> > > > > > >
> > > > > > > Hi-
> > > > > > >
> > > > > > > I recently got the 1023 lens from eBay and found that I
> > > > couldn't get
> > > > > > > it to focus. I examined it under my stereo scope and see
> > that
> > > > it had
> > > > > > > gunk all over the front lens, so I cleaned it with Q-
tips
> > and
> > > > lens
> > > > > > > cleaning solution followed by alcohol. That got it
cleaned
> > as
> > > > far
> > > > > > as I
> > > > > > > can tell through my stereoscope, but it still won't
focus.
> > > > > > >
> > > > > > > I have another 1023 lens to compare it with that seems
to
> > be
> > > in
> > > > > > great
> > > > > > > condition (it _will_ focus!). Both lenses have a gap
> > between
> > > the
> > > > > > > front lens glass and its protective brass shroud, but
the
> > one
> > > > on the
> > > > > > > defective lens contains amber-colored crumbly
crystalline
> > > > material
> > > > > > > that I assume is hardened Canada Balsam. The gap around
the
> > > good
> > > > > > lens
> > > > > > > is clear.
> > > > > > >
> > > > > > > I just sent an email to the seller with the above
> > information,
> > > > > > hoping
> > > > > > > to get a full refund, but wanted to ask the group before
> > > > > > proceeding. I
> > > > > > > haven't yet tried Xylene on the lens, but I have some,
and
> > am
> > > > > > > wondering if it might be worth trying. Or, is lens
repair
> > > > something
> > > > > > a
> > > > > > > novice should stay away from. I'm not aware of any do-
it-
> > > > yourself
> > > > > > > instructions, although I haven't done an exhaustive
search.
> > > > > > >
> > > > > > > Any comments will be welcome. Thanks.
> > > > > > >
> > > > > > > Mike Lafleur
> > > > > > >
> > > > > >
> > > > > > _,_._,___
> > > > >
> > > >
> > > >
> > > >
> > > >
> > > >
> > > > Yahoo! Groups Links
> > > >
> > > >
> > > >
> > > >
> > > >
> > > >
> > > >
> > > >
> > > > [Non-text portions of this message have been removed]
> > > >
> > >
> >
> >
>