Art

Thanks very much for your helpful advice. It took a few tries but I
now have my eyepieces dialed in perfectly. To be honest, it didn't
really bother me too much but my son simply can't align the images
when they are out of whack.
Part of the fun of these old AO scopes is how mechanically simple
they are. I've had almost as much fun taking them apart and putting
them back together as I've had using them! Thanks again for sharing
your experience, I really appreciate it.

Dennis

--- In Microscope@yahoogroups.com, "Arthur" <Roseoptics@...> wrote:
>
> Well,... I wouldn't usually respond to a question like this, but
I've
> learned that there are some that will do whatever they might to try
a
> repair themselves. I have used this technique while "in the field"
> and found that it works well enough. Much like evaluating a pair of
> binoculars, you will need to find a straight horizontal line, such
as
> a long window sill on a wall or other area some distance away. I
> would say about twelve feet or so. I have used the lines on a
cinder
> block wall. Then with the head held down, without the lower casing
> and sliding lens attached, loosen the three screws on the upper
> prism. Now, physically adjust the head so that when looking into
both
> eyepiece tubes from a foot or so away, you can see the horizontal
> (window sill) line in both tubes (at the same time). This image of
> the sill, or whatever you might be using, does not have to be
> precisely in the center of the field. Any misalignment should show
up
> as a broken line (window sill) between the tubes. What I mean is,
one
> line would be lower or higher than in the opposite tube. Rotate
that
> center prism until the line in each tube "appears" to be
continuous.
> In reality, the lines should show the same plane. Tighten screws
and
> re assemble the head and give it a try. This method will only
correct
> one side image being above or below the other side. It will not
> correct images that are crossed or too far apart from the other.
> There are always more factors to consider playing with the
alignment
> of a binocular head. Usually one adjustment will cause an error
> somewhere else, such as when adjusting the IPD. You might find that
> when the IPD is set at the narrowest position and the images are
> correct, this might all change when the IPD is widened. Hope at
least
> some of this helps! Arthur
>
>
> --- In Microscope@yahoogroups.com, "post_12" <dennis.benjamin@>
> wrote:
> >
> > Hi All
> > Hoping for some helpful tips from fellow AO owners here. My
series
> 10
> > scope had quite a bit of clouding on the mirrors/prisms in the
> > binocular head. I picked up a replacement on eBay, and happily it
> is
> > almost perfectly clear. Unhappily, however, the two images are
> slightly
> > offset when I look through the eyepieces. I have taken these
heads
> > apart before, and don't have much to lose here, so I was hoping
> someone
> > could give me some pointers on how to get the images aligned. Do
I
> move
> > the central, beam splitter assembly? The mirrors on each of the
> > eyetubes look pretty permanent.
> > One thing I should mention is that both eyetubes in the new head
> were a
> > bit loose when I received it. Specifically, the gray metal
> baseplate
> > was rocking in the dovetail join holding the baseplate on the
head.
> I
> > tightened up the removeable dovetail element; is it possible that
> the
> > sliding joint has worn to the point that when it is tightened the
> tubes
> > are out of alignment?
> > Thanks to all, I'm grateful to this forum for steering me into
this
> new
> > hobby. My 9 year old and I come back from every hike with new
> samples
> > to study, and we have a great scope thanks to the education I
> received
> > reading this forum.
> >
>