I 2nd the caution with respect to the spring and ball bearing. It's
used to insure no rattling around of the (tube?) lens on the bottom of
the unit, as that lens moves up and down to compensate for changes in
the interocular distance. Look on the drawings available on Steve
Neeley's site (get the AO Series 10 stuff, and in the back of the
manuals is a part's list/exploded drawing) to ensure you know where
the spring and ball are, and when you remove the sliding lens keep the
bottom of the head pointed into the baking pan you are working over.

I've always removed the eyetubes when I do this. They are held onto
the body of the head by brass dovetails. Regarding dried up grease,
on these dovetails and elsewhere, I used mineral spirits and a tooth
brush or a cotton swab to remove the crud.

Regarding the optics and mirrors (especially the mirrors) be very
gentle cleaning them. A light blow from a bulb-type air blower, and
then lightly drawing an acetone-moistened optical tissue across the
surface of the mirrors is about it.

Good luck,

Jim


--- In Microscope@yahoogroups.com, "Simon Bosworth"
<simon.bosworth@...> wrote:
>
> Thanks to Ted & Mattbrin....I will have a go at fixing it. Thanks
for the warnings re small parts :-)
>
> Simon
>
>
> ----- Original Message -----
> From: mattbrin
> To: Microscope@yahoogroups.com
> Sent: Friday, February 13, 2009 7:36 AM
> Subject: [Microscope] Re: AO Trinocular head
>
>
> That page does not cover the problem mentioned. The problem MIGHT be
> solved by loosening the two set screws on the lever that moves the
> prism and tightening them with the lever in a new position. If the
> problem is caused more by things being stuck than by their being out
> of line, then the unit will have to be opened. The page below covers
> how to open the unit.
>
> Once open, the head will be in two main parts. The page below covers
> the eyetube assembly more than the prism assembly. There is VERY
> little grease in the prism assembly. The mechanics there are easy to
> understand with a little thought. If you take out the intermediate
> lens, you will lose a tiny bearing and spring unless you are working
> over something like a baking pan. You will also have broken a seal
> locking an alignment shaft in place. I don't know how important that
> seal is, but hot glue very carefully applied has worked for me as a
> replacement.
>
> The silvered surfaces of the prism will be exposed. The silver is
> very easy to scratch. Be careful.
>
> --- In Microscope@yahoogroups.com, "Ted Coffey" <twcoffey@> wrote:
> >
> > This link should have the information:
> >
> > http://www.xmission.com/~psneeley/Personal/Microscope.htm
> >
> > The first list on this page has a link to AO repairs.
> >
> > Ted
> >
> >
> >
> > --- In Microscope@yahoogroups.com, "Simon Bosworth"
> > <simon.bosworth@> wrote:
> > >
> > > Hello all,
> > > I have an AO Trinocular head that I think has a problem. The
lever to
> > > move the prism? away from the vertical tube only moves about
> 45deg. The
> > > prism does not move completely clear of the light path. I presume
> this
> > > is a problem. Can I take the head apart and re-assemble it
without
> > > messing up the alignment?
> > >
> > > Also what solvent should I use to remove gummed up grease on the
> slides?
> > >
> > > Thanks,
> > > Simon
> > >
> > >
> > >
> > > [Non-text portions of this message have been removed]
> > >
> >
>
>
>
>
>
> [Non-text portions of this message have been removed]
>