Hello Nikon repairers,

Here are extracts I sent to the Nikongigest/NikonMF some time ago :

Removing dust particles in the finder eye piece :

1) Gently peel off the eye piece leatherlette. It's quite tough, so don't
worry about breaking it (except at the narrow parts).
2) Unscrew the two screws holding the black plastic eye piece
3) Remove the plastic eye piece housing
4) Remove the lens element
5) Clean the lens element using a soft cloth/tissue
6) Use a flow brush/mini vacumn pump to remove dust particles in the lens
housing
7) Insert the lens element
8) Screw in the plastic eye piece housing
9) Glue the leatherlette back, using a non solvent glue (I use table tennis
rubber glue)


Removing screws with two tiny holes on their heads :

1) Get a paper clip and cut it in half
2) Make 'U' shapes of different sizes
3) Insert the two ends of the 'U' into the two tiny holes of the screw
4) Use a pair of pliers to clamp the 'U' and turn it anti-clockwise until
the screw is loose
5) Remove the screw using fingers

This method is much better than using a pair of pliers, as it does not
damage the screw head.


Removing the large flat head screw on the winder lever :

1) Get a pluming rubber gasket disc
2) Put it on the flat head screw
3) Press your thumb hard against the rubber and turn anti clockwise.
4) If this fails, then heat the screw with a soldering iron until it is very
hot and try again.



Get the slow shutter speeds right :

1) Peel back the front leatherlette on the winder side to expose the two
screws near the end and the access hole next to the depth of field preview.
Unscrew the two screw.

2) Peel back the front leatherlette on the rewind side to expose a screw
near the top of the lens mount. Unscrew the screw.

3) Remove the finder, and remove the foam that cushions the finder to review
the two screws underneath. Unscrew the two screws.

4) Unscrew the two screws just below the lens mount, and the screw near the
top left of the lens mount.

5) The front plate is lightly glued, so LIGHT force is need to make the
mirror box and front plate loose. But don't push the whole piece hard, as
you need to first unlatch the locking mechanism through the access hole next
to the depth of field lever.

6) Use a small screw driver, push it through the access hold and push the
lever down (towards the base plate)

7) Push the whole mirror and front plate off as one piece. Note that there
is no need to remove the self timer and depth of field knobs or anything
else.

8) Inspect the guts of the F2. Since the F2 is not sealed, the inside can be
rather dusty.

9) Use a fairly tough artist's brush to remove and blow all the dust off,
especially on the slow speed mechanism at the bottom of what used to be the
lens mount.

10) Wind the shutter. The shutter release won't work at this stage, but you
can release the shutter by pushing the small level near the bottom left of
what used to be the lens mount. Check that all slow shutter speeds work
properly.

11) VERY LIGHTLY lubricate some of the mechanisms on the mirror box and
front box IF necessary using a thin machine oil. Drip the lubricant using
the end of a small pin, screw driver or tweezers.

12) Push the whole mirror box and front plate back into the camera, but not
quite all the way in.

13) Use a small screw driver, push it through the access hold and push it
lever down (towards the base plate) whilst pushing the front plate
completely in. The front plate should snap in.

14) Check that the focusing screen release mechanism is working properly. If
it is locked, then push the mirror box out slightly, and push the screen
release several times whilst pushing the mirror box back in.

15) Screw all the screws back. Check the shutter release works. If not,
remove the whole mirrorbox and front plate and put it back again.

16) Glue the leatherletts back using a non solvent glue.

The whole procedure takes about 45 minutes, once you have learnt it.


Shutter curtain top and bottom misaligned :

1) Open the F2 as above
2) Inspect the nylon strips that pull the sync curtain. If one strip has
came off its roller, then help it to roll back properly. This is not easy to
do, but it can be done by guiding the strip back while advancing the
shutter.

Happy F2 servicing,

Sover

Dear Fellows,

Edward Andersen wrote:
> h.passman@... wrote:
>
> >   The only thing I noticed is in the MD-12 manual it says to look in the
MD-11 for disassembly, adjustment and reassembly instructions.  This may be
where the info you need is.  Darn, now I have to buy another manual.
>
> This may be an item in which we want to compile in  a FAQ for Nikon Repair.
Various manuals
> which are cumulative such as the MD-11 and MD-12.  This may hold true for the
FE and FE2, FM, FM2 etc.
> I have an FTN manual which references the photomic TN manual.

It seems like a good idea! Perhaps we could compile a Nikon
Repair Manual Catalog listing type off manual (binder, microfiche) and
the manuals they refer to (if any).

Perhaps Ed would like to be editor of such a catalog!?

Best regards,
--
Lars Holst Hansen - LHHansen@...
http://www.zi.ku.dk/animbehav/webbio/lhhansen.htm
http://www.onelist.com/subscribe/NikonRepair

h.passman@... wrote:

>   The only thing I noticed is in the MD-12 manual it says to look in the MD-11
for disassembly, adjustment and reassembly instructions.  This may be where the
info you need is.  Darn, now I have to buy another manual.

This may be an item in which we want to compile in  a FAQ for Nikon Repair.
Various manuals
which are cumulative such as the MD-11 and MD-12.  This may hold true for the FE
and FE2, FM, FM2 etc.
I have an FTN manual which references the photomic TN manual.

comments?
Ed

When I was an auto mechanic some years back my experience was that
backlash problems usually produced a whining noise but I suppose
anything is possible -

I will have to disassemble again to look again - the noise and vibration
remind me most of what I would expect if a bit of trash were between a
couple of teeth in one of the gears close to the motor, but what's most
frustrating is that everything appears to be absolutely normal.

Whatever is wrong, I don't think it could ever have passed factory
inspection this way - my other MD-12 is very smooth apart from the loud
snap at the end of the stroke.

I also need to find a way to test the motor by itself, which could be
harder to do than it sounds - the amount of circuitry in the MD-12 is
really surprising.

BTW, all the gears appear (to my eye) to be metal - none of the plastic
that I understand is a weakness in some other drives.

Howard wrote:

>>I have the repair manual for an MD-12 and a few other Nikon products.  I
looked in the manual to see if they listed torgue setting,
pre-tensioning
or backlash.  <<
>>  I'm around the automotive industry and most
of the time noisy gear trains can be traced to one of these type
tolerances.  Sometimes it's very hard to see the wear that is causing
the
noise on big metal gears much less little tiny plastic or delrin
gears.<<

Good Morning Bill,
I have the repair manual for an MD-12 and a few other Nikon products.  I looked
in the manual to see if they listed torgue setting, pre-tensioning or backlash.
  The only thing I noticed is in the MD-12 manual it says to look in the MD-11
for disassembly, adjustment and reassembly instructions.  This may be where the
info you need is.  Darn, now I have to buy another manual.  I'm assuming that
these things are in the manual because they are for the FA in the FA manual.
I'm around the automotive industry and most of the time noisy gear trains can be
traced to one of these type tolerances.  Sometimes it's very hard to see the
wear that is causing the noise on big metal gears much less little tiny plastic
or delrin gears.  I'll let you know if I find anything.  Anyone else out there
know about this one???????

Merry Christmas All

Howard

William Boyle wrote:

> I've joined the list mainly to learn from those who know more about
> repair of any Nikon gear - I've never regretted learning more about any
> useful subject. There might even be someone on the list with some
> helpful suggestions on what might cause the vibration and noise in my
> MD-12!

It seems that so far most of us are not highly experienced in repair,
(unless we haven't heard from you yet.) perhaps
just a propensity for tinkering,   I've got a few FTN finders waiting to be
brought back to life and a N4004 that needs a new brain.

Hopefully we can learn from each others trials.

Ed

h.passman@... wrote:

I disliked the way Nikon chose to turn the camera off an on with the film
advance lever.

It seems that what ever you get used to is what you like here.  I cut my teeth
on an FM
and happen to love the meter on off switch here.  I recently got an F3 an have
to smack myself to remember to turn off the switch.  The F3 even has the stand
off
position, why didn't they just continue.


Ed

Hello NikonRepair,

My name is Bill Boyle and I have owned a variety of Nikon bodies
including F, 8008s, N90s, N2000, FE2, and FM2 - none have needed repair
apart from adjustment of the mirror in the N2000 to correct a focusing
problem. I did have to fix a loose lens group in a Nikkor AF
28-70/3.5-4.5 and have learned a lot about disassembling an MD-12 as I
try to track down a vibration and noise that seems to be in the gear
train. The gears look fine and I haven't found any dirt between the
teeth. The drive works perfectly but the noise annoys ;-).

I have also done some repairs on Kiev 88's, especially of the film
cartidges, and have done some fairly extensive disassembly of my Leica
IIIf to fix the shutter - I've learned a lot about the camera, and one
of these days I'll get the roller tension adjuted to give an even
exposure all the way across at 1/1000.

I've joined the list mainly to learn from those who know more about
repair of any Nikon gear - I've never regretted learning more about any
useful subject. There might even be someone on the list with some
helpful suggestions on what might cause the vibration and noise in my
MD-12!

Bill

Hi all,

I saw a message to (NIKON)MF mentioning this group and thought I'd lurk over
here, too.  I've got a N90s, two F2's and an F which are all working pretty
well the last time I checked. I recently bought a lens from KEH, which was
rated a "Bargain." The price was not bad, but I am distressed by the known
and apparent flaws in it. Worse than that, I'm not sure what caused the flaws
and what can be done about them. They don't appear in views from the camera
side of the mount.  This group might be the one to say, "take two aspirins or
two beers and don't worry about it," or it might be "ship that piece of dreck
back."

At any rate, it's good to be on board and I'm sure there's plenty to learn.

Ben Harper
Lexington, KY

Hi Folks,
The subject has come up about replacement of the LCD in a FA.  I found the part
is $36.95 from Nikon and still available.  My repair shop estimated 165.00 in
labor which is probably 2 to 2.5 hours labor.  Has anyone out there done this
repair before?  Is it tough? I can open a tuna can so I figure how hard could an
FA be?  Just kidding.  Thanks in advance for your help.  Howard

Good Morning Group, I figure I'll step up and give my intro and maybe get some
dialog going.  My name is Howard Passman and live in a tiny town outside of
Washington D.C.. After a many year hiatus I'm getting back into photography as a
hobby.  In the old days I used Minolta cameras for 35mm.  Yes!! I confessed, now
I feel better!! Anyhow, I purchased an Nikon Fm2n because I yearned for an old
fashioned manual camera.  I guess I'm a republican when it comes to photography.
Even during the purchase I disliked the way Nikon chose to turn the camera off
an on with the film advance lever. I really liked the old button on the bottom
of the Minolta (I promise not to use the word again) I found that when I picked
up the camera I expected it to be on and it wasn't.  Then if I left the lever
out it was in my way.  Maybe it's because I use glasses and have to have the
camera crammed up against my face to even see 80% of the 93% that's there. My
solution to the problem was to have the film advance lever lock disabled.  I
went to the Nikon shop here in D.C. and for $60.00 the deed was done and I
haven't lived long enough to regret it.  I use a MD-12 most of the time now
which makes the lock a moot point but when the drive isn't hugging the bottom of
my Fm2n I still really appreciate the mod.

There you have it.  Anyone one else brave enough to bare your soul and mods?

Hello all,

Lars Holst Hansen wrote:

> Not many have taken the opportunity to introduce themselves and tell us
> about their repair interests and experiences.
>

I have been intersted in Nikon for about 22 years.  I started in 7th grade.I
had really wanted an F2A at the time but there was no way I was gonna come up
with that
kind of money.  I opted for the FM.  Over the years It has proven to be an
extremely fine choice,
and ironically a body chosen by many pros.  I do recall the metering system
being the subject of
some harsh words but I have found it to be very easy to use and now that I
have been aquiring some
other Nikon bodies I am convinced of this.

My dad had an FTN stolen a ways back which is how most of my interst in the
original F was spawned.
I have aquired several FTN finders to work on.  So most of my interest in
repair will be on F's and F2's.

I also aquired an N4004 that has what presumably is a common problem with one
of the circuit boards which
basically removes any control of the shutter.  supposedly this was a common
probelm, I haven't tracked any
other information about this down yet.  If anyone has any experience with
this please feel free to chime in.

A good way to become familiar with camera repair is to work on cheap
cameras.  It seems as though just about
everyone has a broken camera that they will give you.

>  I am awaiting the repair manual. I like to have it by the
> side when I start opening up the beast, as I am told it is quite packed
> in there!

I think the repair manuals are key, especially if you, (and me of course ),
are not that familiarwith disassembling cameras.  There a lot of little
springs and gears that can pop out and you'll never know
where they came from or how they go back together.  I just got several
different manuals.  If you have access to
a microfiche reader the cost of entry is minimal.

> I know someone who has a Nikkormat
> (model unknown) literally in pieces (he did not have the repair manual
> by the side!)
>

This will be quite the challenge, and maybe a permanent parts camera.  good
luck. I wouldenjoy a quest such as that.

Later
Ed

Dear Fellows!

Edward Andersen wrote:
> It appears as thought the link is successfully completed, disregard the
> request for instructions.

Yes it seems indeed OK.

Not many have taken the opportunity to introduce themselves and tell us
about their repair interests and experiences.

Well I'll tell a little more about me then. I started with Nikon about
ten years ago as I got an FA. In the beginning I used third party lenses
(Tamron) but now I almost entirely use Nikkors. The FA is still going
strong - well so and so. It is starting to show its age. I did not
realize that the LED signal for activated exp. compensation in the
finder did not work since I never had the manual until recently. I was
not aware of this LED's presence. It has cost me a few wrongly exposed
frames over the years as I have forgotten to set the exp. comp. dial
back after use. The ADR is also no longer working. The alignment of
mirror or prisms (whatever it is) is no longer good. This has happened
in my time with the body. Lately hot shoe has shown some bad
connections. I am awaiting the repair manual. I like to have it by the
side when I start opening up the beast, as I am told it is quite packed
in there! Some years ago I a got a FM2 (latest version, new series two)
to supplement the automatic FA. So far I have had no troubles with this,
and my few Nikkors is also working without trouble. When I get time I
might get myself a little challenge! I know someone who has a Nikkormat
(model unknown) literally in pieces (he did not have the repair manual
by the side!)

Best regards,
--
Lars Holst Hansen - LHHansen@...
http://www.zi.ku.dk/animbehav/webbio/lhhansen.htm
http://www.onelist.com/subscribe/NikonRepair

It appears as thought the link is successfully completed, disregard the
request for instructions.

Ed

I would be happy to uplaod a link, however you'll have to bear with me
for I am quite new to list postings etc.  I have lurked on them for a couple of
years
but never participated
until now.  Please provide me with a simple instruction and I will give it a
shot.  I'll
give it a shot now anyway,

we'll see if i am successful.

Ed

Dear Follows,

Edward Andersen wrote:
> I have also visited and conversed with Robert Decker who has a similar type
> site.  He also provides a link to Glen Walpert's site.

Perhaps you could upload a link to this Robert Decker at our links
section?

> >  Did you check the article on restoration @ NHS (also in links section)?
>
> Actually I have visited there, but in haste it seemed as if there were no
links
> associated withit and I passed right through.  I did return after reading this
and
> was astonished to find a lot of information there.  The flavor was certainly
> against anything I was thinking. Of course I am not into the hardcore
collector
> market.  I certainly wouldn't dream of misrepresenting a "restored"or
repainted
> camera body.  I would also hesitate to touch anything of deep collector value.
> Good info however.

You are refering to the article at
http://www.nikonhs.org/tech_articles/restore.html I presume. Yes it is
written in a peculiar tone. It is at times hard to see what intentions
this guy (Fred Krughoff) has with restoring.

Best regards
--
Lars Holst Hansen - LHHansen@...
http://www.zi.ku.dk/animbehav/webbio/lhhansen.htm
http://www.onelist.com/subscribe/NikonRepair

Hello,

I recently came across some information concerning the motor drive contacts on
FM's and FE's
that might be of interest.  I apologize if this is common knowledge.

I  obtained  a three part article in an old (1979) Camera Craftsman concerning
the FM.
The 4 motor drive contacts are number as follows:

Hold the body upside down with the lens mount in front and the motor drive
contacts
to your right.

the top left contact is #1
bottom left is #2
top right is #3
bottom right is #4.

The older FM's have the knurled locking collar around the shutter release.
when switched to to
the locked position this closes the connecting switch, which connects terminals
#1 and #2.  with the shutter in the released positon these contacts are closed
which can be verified with an ohmmeter.

With the shutter cocked the connecting switch opens and continuity is lost. you
should see infinite resistance.
Terminals #3 and #4 provide a remote switch for the exposure meter since the
wind lever must be in the storage
position for motor use.  The motor turns on the meter throught these
terminals.  This can be verified by
shorting the two terminals to see the led's light.

I don not have a MD-11 or 12 however I verified this information on 2 older
FM's and an FE without the
locking collar.  Of course on the FE you can't see meter functionality as with
the FM.

Hope this helps.
Ed Andersen

Rick Housh wrote:

> On 19 Nov 1999, Lars Holst Hansen <LHHansen@...> wrote:
> >
> >Three pins? I am not quite sure which pins you are referring to.
> >
> I was speaking of the MD-11, which has three pin contacts.  I have attached
> a scan of one.  I don't have an MD-12 on hand at the moment, but as I
> recall one of these three pins is replaced by the plastic contact for the
> microswitch on the MD-12.  I am sure the two remaining pins on the MD-12
> are the two switch contacts for the remote shutter release, but which two
> and what is the third on the MD-11 used for, if anything?
>
> I have uploaded a file, MD11Sock.jpg, to the common files area here which
> is a scan of the MD11 socket, showing the pin configuration.
>
> >@ http://www.maxwell.com.au/club/lr/product/lr12-3/remote.html
> >different Nikon remote accessories are briefly discussed. Please note
> >that it is (erroneously) stated that MD-11 also has the micro switch of
> >MD-12 in its socket, and that the role in connection with 250 expo.
> >backs of seven and ten pin sockets of MD-4 and F4 is left unmentioned.
> >There is likely to be other errors as well.
> >
> You are quite correct about this.
>
> [Attachments have been removed from this message]
>
>

> You did check out the useful web site of Glen Walpert (in the links
> section)?

Yes I have been there on more than one occassion.  It is quite an intersting
site,
which includes the
information on the DP-1 as well.  I have also visited and conversed with Robert
Decker who has a similar type
site.  He also provides a link to Glen Walpert's site.

>  Did you check the article on restoration @ NHS (also in links section)?

Actually I have visited there, but in haste it seemed as if there were no links
associated withit and I passed right through.  I did return after reading this
and
was astonished to find a lot of
information there.  The flavor was certainly against anything I was thinking. 
Of
course I am not
into the hardcore collector market.  I certainly wouldn't dream of
misrepresenting
a "restored"or repainted
camera body.  I would also hesitate to touch anything of deep collector value.
Good info however.

I am in the aquisition mode at the moment so I don't plan to be actively
tinkering
yet.  Probably not
till later this year.

Thanks for the links reference,
Ed Andersen

There are quite a few references I have seen to using
contact cement.  I suspect that this makes it quite difficult to remove.
Perhaps more difficult than this "Sigment"

Ed Andersen

Dear Fellows,

h.passman@... wrote:

> It might be just as hard to find but there is a plastic cement called
"Sigment" that model hobbyists use. It works very well on leather and the such. 
I used to use it on the leather wrap for violin bows and to put binding on
guitars.  It's like plastic cement but cures quickly and holds up very well. I
even used it to put a nikon filter back together and so far so good. And it is
still easy to remove the part when necessary!

The reason I want rubber cement is that I don't want it to stick too
much - in case I want to go back inside someday.
I guess this "Sigment" could be of the very sticking kind!

Best regards
--
Lars Holst Hansen - LHHansen@...
http://www.zi.ku.dk/animbehav/webbio/lhhansen.htm
http://www.onelist.com/subscribe/NikonRepair

Good Morning Lars,
>Not yet, I am still looking for rubber cement here in Denmark (its hard
>to find). I need this to glue back on the leatherettes of the MD-12. Did
>you check the article on restoration @ NHS (also in links section)?

It might be just as hard to find but there is a plastic cement called "Sigment"
that model hobbyists use. It works very well on leather and the such.  I used to
use it on the leather wrap for violin bows and to put binding on guitars.  It's
like plastic cement but cures quickly and holds up very well. I even used it to
put a nikon filter back together and so far so good. And it is still easy to
remove the part when necessary!

Best of luck,
Howard Passman
h.passman@...

Hi Ed!

eca1@... wrote:
> .. I have several FTN finders to keep me busy.  I have just
> ordered several repair manuals from Craigcamera so we will see what
> happens.

You did check out the useful web site of Glen Walpert (in the links
section)?

> The question I'll put out there is this has anyone ever done,
> or attempted any restorative work on Nikons such as dent repair, repaint etc?
> And if so what?

Not yet, I am still looking for rubber cement here in Denmark (its hard
to find). I need this to glue back on the leatherettes of the MD-12. Did
you check the article on restoration @ NHS (also in links section)?

Best,
--
Lars Holst Hansen - LHHansen@...
http://www.zi.ku.dk/animbehav/webbio/lhhansen.htm
http://www.onelist.com/subscribe/NikonRepair

Dear Fellows,
@
http://www.mir.com.my/rb/photography/hardwares/classics/michaeliu/camera.htm
are links to message boards of most classical MF Nikons. There is a lot
of questions on what to about malfunctioning cameras but not an
impressive amount of advise and hints! My hope is that this list will be
different some day! You might find some interesting info there however
and you might be able to to help some of those guys!
Best regards,
--
Lars Holst Hansen - LHHansen@...
http://www.zi.ku.dk/animbehav/webbio/lhhansen.htm
http://www.onelist.com/subscribe/NikonRepair

My name is Vasko, I live in Macedonia and I am a Nikon user. I have an old
  F3 which I like very much. The reason I joined this group is because few
  days ago while shooting a session I heard funny noise while manually
  winding to the next frame. It sounded as if the film was glued in the
  cartridge and the take up spool couldn't pull it out (that was at about
  30th frame, 36 exp. film). I looked at the
  rewind crank if it was turning, it did but not enough for a full frame I
  would say. I took the film out and put a resistance on the take up spool
  with my finger while winding. I could easily stop it. I tried the same
with
  the toothed wheel and it did not stop. I wonder is that normal or should
  the take up spool continue winding even with the resistance I put on it.

  I don't have another manual Nikon to compare, and I would appreciate any
  comments on this. I am not a repairman,  though I am quite handy with
  tools. This is just to help me find out if I should take my camera to be
  repaired.

Thanks

Hello,

Since I have been lurking on this and the manual focus list for a bit I figured
it is time to attempt to participate.  I just read the last post to this list
and Lars is right , we need to get some posts goin here.  I have been into
Nikons for a little over 20 years.  I recently felt the need and
desire to do some tinkering so to speak.  While you guys are opening
up MD-12's I have several FTN finders to keep me busy.  I have just
ordered several repair manuals from Craigcamera so we will see what
happens.  The question I'll put out there is this has anyone ever done,
or attempted any restorative work on Nikons such as dent repair, repaint etc?
And if so what?

Thanks
Ed

Dear Fellows,

I am still awaiting the pictures of the insides of MD-12s (old and new).
Last week I got the Nikkor*ED 400/3.5 IF. This is truely a nice lens even
though its lens shade seems awfully short. Have any of you got any
suggestions as how to make a lens shade extension. Materials, attachment,
where to get felt etc.?
I would also like to build a shoulder support for handheld shots. Perhaps
implementing the pistol grip 2 (have not got it yet). Does anyone
know whether this grip has a tripod thread underneath? I guess there will
be a problem similar to the one we discussed with the MD-12 used for
remote work. The MC-3A cord will keep the cameras meter on.. I will have
to think whether it is better than not having the meter on before you
actually trigger the shutter via the pistol grip.

Comments are wellcome as well as general presentations. Who are you - what
are your experiences with repair. Mine are very sparse up until now - I have
not got the repair manuals yet... I like to do more in future though as repair
is madingly expensive here in Denmark. The guy from which I bought the 400/3.5
had a bashed F90 (N90). He bent some of the shutter blades. Does anyone know
if this is the same shutter as the one in FM2 (new series 2) and whether spares
are readilly available?

Best regards,
Lars.

Dear Members,

Rick Housh wrote:

> On 19 Nov 1999, Lars wrote:
> >
> >Three pins? I am not quite sure which pins you are referring to.
> >
> I was speaking of the MD-11, which has three pin contacts.
...
> I don't have an MD-12 on hand at the moment, but as I
> recall one of these three pins is replaced by the plastic contact for the
> microswitch on the MD-12.  I am sure the two remaining pins on the MD-12
> are the two switch contacts for the remote shutter release, but which two
> and what is the third on the MD-11 used for, if anything?

The two remaining pins are the upper and the right one (as seen in your
uploaded picture), the left has been replaced in MD-12 with the plastic
pin switch plunger. From
http://www.maxwell.com.au/club/lr/product/lr12-3/remote.html it could
seem that the third contact pin in MD-11 is redundant;

"The Nikon two-pin electronic remote connection began life as a
three-pin version on the Motor Drives MD-1, MD-2 and MD-3 for
the F2 as in Figure 3. The third pin functioned as a power supply for
accessories like the AC/DC Converter MA-2 and MA-4. The socket
continued with the same dimensions and thread with the third pin
eliminated, .."

Has anyone had a look inside a n MD-11?

It is also interesting to note that

"Due to diodes inside
the grip [MC-12B], when the trigger is depressed halfway, the above
SLRs will activate exposure metering and (except for the
F-301) autofocus."

It is unclear whether this holds true for the MD-12 and MD-15. I suspect
not. It is not mentioned in the MD-12 manual. Does anyone have the MD-15
manual?

Best regards,
--
Lars Holst Hansen - LHHansen@...
http://www.zi.ku.dk/animbehav/webbio/lhhansen.htm
http://www.onelist.com/subscribe/NikonRepair

On 19 Nov 1999, Lars Holst Hansen <LHHansen@...> wrote:
>
>Three pins? I am not quite sure which pins you are referring to.
>
I was speaking of the MD-11, which has three pin contacts.  I have attached
a scan of one.  I don't have an MD-12 on hand at the moment, but as I
recall one of these three pins is replaced by the plastic contact for the
microswitch on the MD-12.  I am sure the two remaining pins on the MD-12
are the two switch contacts for the remote shutter release, but which two
and what is the third on the MD-11 used for, if anything?

I have uploaded a file, MD11Sock.jpg, to the common files area here which
is a scan of the MD11 socket, showing the pin configuration.

>@ http://www.maxwell.com.au/club/lr/product/lr12-3/remote.html
>different Nikon remote accessories are briefly discussed. Please note
>that it is (erroneously) stated that MD-11 also has the micro switch of
>MD-12 in its socket, and that the role in connection with 250 expo.
>backs of seven and ten pin sockets of MD-4 and F4 is left unmentioned.
>There is likely to be other errors as well.
>
You are quite correct about this.

Dear Members,
Rick Housh wrote:
>
> Hi, Lars.  As an alternative to modifying the MD-12 itself, how about
> modifying the plug to remove enough material so the microswitch is not
> activated?  Or perhaps a new plug could be fashioned with connectors made
> for plug-in connections on PC boards.
> ...
> As long as the male plug were shaped
> so as not to depress the micro-switch it should work properly to activate
> the shutter release without defeating the auto-off function, with no
> changes at all to camera or MD-12.

It seems like a very nice alternative, that would leave the MD
untouched.
You would have to sacrifice a remote plug made out of "secret formula
Nikon plastic"
(http://www.mit.edu:8001/people/andy_roo/photography/plastic.html) or
use a homemade plug which perhaps does not have a nice securing thread.

> All the accessory cords which plug into the MD12 seem to activate the micro
> switch which turns off the "auto-off" function of the MD-12, except the
> MR-2 and MR-3 "buttons."  Of course, these have a button with their own
> little switch inside to trip the shutter, but they do not inactivate the
> "auto-off" function.  Each takes a mechanical remote cable release.
> However, it looks fairly easy to dissect one to allow use of its plug to
> fashion an electrical remote release which would not defeat the "auto-off."

These TERMINAL RELEASES (MR-2 and MR-3) could be a source for the thread
if one can get ones hands on them.

> What I have not been able to find is a pin-out for the three pins on the
> motor.  It would be helpful to know what each of these does.

Three pins? I am not quite sure which pins you are referring to.

@ http://www.maxwell.com.au/club/lr/product/lr12-3/remote.html
different Nikon remote accessories are briefly discussed. Please note
that it is (erroneously) stated that MD-11 also has the micro switch of
MD-12 in its socket, and that the role in connection with 250 expo.
backs of seven and ten pin sockets of MD-4 and F4 is left unmentioned.
There is likely to be other errors as well.

Best regards,
--
Lars Holst Hansen - LHHansen@...
http://www.zi.ku.dk/animbehav/webbio/lhhansen.htm
http://www.onelist.com/subscribe/NikonRepair

On Thu, 18 Nov 1999 11:13:16 +0100 Lars Holst Hansen <LHHansen@xx.xx.xxx>
wrote:

>The MD-12 can be modified rather easy
>so the meter will only be switched on by the trigger button or
>instantaneously when the remote connectors are shorted. This is done by
>opening the top base plate (held by five black screws) and disconnecting
>one cable. In the old version the yellow cable coming up from a hole
>(together with two black, a blue and a red) is the one to disconnect. it
>is advisable to wrap a little piece of tape around the loose end after
>soldering it off to keep it form shorting stuff or connecting again. You
>can always solder it back in place if you regret the new power saving
>functioning. On the newer version there is a gray, a blue, two blacks ,
>an orange and a red cable coming up from this hole. In this case either the
>blue or the orange should be disconnected.

Hi, Lars.  As an alternative to modifying the MD-12 itself, how about
modifying the plug to remove enough material so the microswitch is not
activated?  Or perhaps a new plug could be fashioned with connectors made
for plug-in connections on PC boards.  I haven't checked with a parts
supplier such as Radio Shack, but I did try some standard connectors I had
lying around, and several seemed to make a fairly good press-on fit, and
the pin spacing was fine.  It probably wouldn't even be necessary to modify
the Nikon cable, as an adapter could be fashioned with a female socket on
one end and a male plug on the other.  As long as the male plug were shaped
so as not to depress the micro-switch it should work properly to activate
the shutter release without defeating the auto-off function, with no
changes at all to camera or MD-12.

All the accessory cords which plug into the MD12 seem to activate the micro
switch which turns off the "auto-off" function of the MD-12, except the
MR-2 and MR-3 "buttons."  Of course, these have a button with their own
little switch inside to trip the shutter, but they do not inactivate the
"auto-off" function.  Each takes a mechanical remote cable release.
However, it looks fairly easy to dissect one to allow use of its plug to
fashion an electrical remote release which would not defeat the "auto-off."

What I have not been able to find is a pin-out for the three pins on the
motor.  It would be helpful to know what each of these does.

- Rick Housh -