Hi All,

Happy New Decade
Happy New Year
Happy New Century
Happy New Millennium
--


Mr Ed




**********************

MR ED Is a Horse of Course

Hal Taylor wrote:
>
> Hi All,
>
> Hope you're all having a great holiday.  I am longtime collector of
> broken stuff and will attempt to repair almost anything.  Generally,
> I am smart enough to leave my cameras alone, but occasionally I will
> attempt repairs if they don't seem too complicated.
>
> I have an F3 with a broken on/off switch that I would like to
> replace, if I can get some sage advice from this group.  The on/off
> switch ring which is situated under the film advance lever, has a
> piece cracked off, so I wonder if a home repair is feasible.  First
> of all, how would I remove the film advance lever?  Second, does
> anyone have a part number for it?  Can I just call Nikon parts and
> describe what I want, or do I need a part number?  Finally, any hints
> on what is required to replace the ring?  Any tips or pointers would
> be extremely appreciated.  Thanks.
>
> Hal
>
> ________________________________________________________________________
> ________________________________________________________________________

I had a similar problem with an F3. The cover over the film
advance lever just screws off. I used pipe grips padded with
rubber from an old inner tube - I'm sure there's a more
elegant way, but it worked. The advance lever just lifted
off. There may have been another retaining ring to remove -
can't remember now, but there were no parts ready to spring
out! I just filed the broken off bit to give purchase for a
fingernail & put it all back. Worked fine until the camera
was stolen....
--
Peter Hardman
Breeder of Shetland sheep and Shetland cattle.

Hi Ira!
I will check wheter there is any difference in the backs for chrome and
black (don't think so) and get you the part number. You should be able to
get a new one (meant for FM2).

Best regards,
--
Lars Holst Hansen - LHHansen@...
http://www.zi.ku.dk/personal/lhhansen
http://www.egroups.com/subscribe/NikonRepair

> Ira Stewart wrote:
> I need a back for the Nikon FE-2 camera. Prefer like new condition
> but will consider anything.
>
> Ira
>
> P.S. My understanding is that the backs for the FE, FM, FE-2, FM-2
> and FA are all the same. Also, all backs for the above cameras will
> match a chrome body or a black body. Anybody know for sure?
>
>

We already have an MF-16. The original back is definitely slimmer.

Plus we have a Polaroid using NPC MF-9 (no longer available) for an
FE-2. The FE-2 back on the NPC MF-9 is bent rather badly, so maybe we
really need TWO backs for an FE-2?

I have always wondered what ever happens to all the original camera
backs that get replaced with data backs. Do people throw them
away?????

--- In NikonRepair@egroups.com, ben smith <sdnk@n...> wrote:
> why just buy a MF-16 data back?
>
>
> "Ira Stewart" <irastewart@b...> wrote:
>
> > ---------------------------------------------
> > Attachment: 
> > MIME Type: multipart/alternative
> > ---------------------------------------------
> I need a back for the Nikon FE-2 camera. Prefer like new condition
> but will consider anything.
>
> Ira
>
> P.S. My understanding is that the backs for the FE, FM, FE-2, FM-2
> and FA are all the same. Also, all backs for the above cameras will
> match a chrome body or a black body. Anybody know for sure?
>
>
>
> ____________________________________________________________________
> Get your own FREE, personal Netscape WebMail account today at
http://home.netscape.com/webmail

> I have always wondered what ever happens to all the
> original camera
> backs that get replaced with data backs. Do people throw them
> away?????

I usually include the original back as well as the data back
whenever I do a trade or sell a camera but my question is about
where the camera straps and (n)everready cases go here in the
U.S. when I know very well that Nikon includes them in the kit
all at the same price.  Stores here seem to love to generate
extra cash by splitting the items up and selling them
separately.  And where do all of the lens hoods go that came
with the lens when it was purchased?  Every time I buy a used
lens I have to search high and low for the correct hood.  :-)

Happy new millennium to all!

Len
---

Hi, all!

Happy New Year!

For Christmas I received a rotary tool as a gift.  I had intended to use it
to "AI" my first pre-AI lens, a 50mm f/1.4, in somewhat less than perfect
condition, as I think it would not be a great loss if I bungled it, and
could just write it off as practice if it didn't work out.

However, try as I may, I can't disassemble the lens.  Someone must have put
epoxy on the screw threads at some point in time.  I have tried heating
them and everything else I can think of, to no avail.

Do you think it would be possible to grind the notch in the aperture ring
while it was still attached to the lens if I were very careful, and sealed
everything as best I could, or is there just too great a danger of
particles making their way into the lens mechanism?

- Rick Housh -

Some solutions:
1. Use modeling clay or play-dough to cover the back lens elements.
and then notch the lens without removing the AI ring. I've done this
before, not problems with metal debris getting inside the lens. But
you will have to clean the back element with some lens cleaner.

2. Buy some dremel cut off disks and notch those pesky phillips screw
heads with a standard stright slot. (You will probably use the cut
off wheels to make the AI notch any way!) Nikon uses some kind of
thread lock which makes it almost impossible to remove some of their
screws. I've busted around 10 phillips screw drivers over the course
of my repair life. The 200mm f/4 micro nikkor is the worse. Everyone
has tons of white thread lock on it.

3. Maybe your screw driver just needs a little more leverage? Drill a
hole through it's handle and stick another screw driver at a right
angle to it for a lever.

4. Make sure you remove those side set screws. They are often paited
over or had to see and if you don't get them, you won't be able to
remove the AI ring.

Peace, Rolland

> Do you think it would be possible to grind the notch in the
aperture ring
> while it was still attached to the lens if I were very careful, and
sealed
> everything as best I could, or is there just too great a danger of
> particles making their way into the lens mechanism?
>
> - Rick Housh -

Please do get me the part number! Also, is the bottom plate for an
FE-2 the same as for an FM-2? I need a bottom plate for a black FE-2.

I noticed you are in Germany. Can you buy a Nikon AS-17 there? My
understanding is that presently, Nikon dealers in the USA can NOT get
the AS-17 because Nikon won't allow it. Anybody know more about this?

If you have a Nikon F3, then you NEED an AS-17 as it enables you to
body mount and use Nikon's "standard" TTL flashes.

Thanking you in advance,

Ira

--- In NikonRepair@egroups.com, "Hansen, Lars Holst" <LHHansen@z...>
wrote:
> Hi Ira!
> I will check wheter there is any difference in the backs for chrome
and
> black (don't think so) and get you the part number. You should be
able to
> get a new one (meant for FM2).
>
> Best regards,
> --
> Lars Holst Hansen - LHHansen@z...
> http://www.zi.ku.dk/personal/lhhansen
> http://www.egroups.com/subscribe/NikonRepair
>
> > Ira Stewart wrote:
> > I need a back for the Nikon FE-2 camera. Prefer like new condition
> > but will consider anything.
> >
> > Ira
> >
> > P.S. My understanding is that the backs for the FE, FM, FE-2, FM-2
> > and FA are all the same. Also, all backs for the above cameras
will
> > match a chrome body or a black body. Anybody know for sure?
> >
> >

Some comments:

Rolland writes:
<<Use modeling clay or play-dough to cover the back lens elements.
and then notch the lens without removing the AI ring.>>

This will certainly work. Even masking tape or drafting tape can work.
However, you can do a much better job by removing the aperture ring. Also, if
you intend to keep and properly relocate the indexing prong, you'll need to
drill and tap two new holes for the screws. That will most certainly put
debris inside the lens if you don't remove the aperture ring first.

<<Nikon uses some kind of thread lock which makes it almost impossible to
remove some of their screws.>>

Tell me about it! I use a soldering iron to first heat the screws. This helps
in about 85% of the cases. Personally, I find the slotted screws on the
mirror box in Nikkormat cameras to be the worst. At least with the
cross-point screws it's easier to accurately drill them out when necessary.

<<Drill a hole through it's handle and stick another screw driver at a right
angle to it for a lever.>>

Good tip, but it's often not so much a problem of leverage as angle and down
pressure. I've had some good luck mounting precision screwdriver bits in
electric screwdrivers and drill-drivers. That way you can apply consistent
down force and let the tool provide the torque. Be careful, though, most
drill-drivers produce enough torque to take a screw head off if it's really
frozen.

Incidentally, I'll be soon adding some new pictures to my web site of unusual
AI modifications I've done. I'll post when they are ready.

William Sampson
http://hometown.aol.com/wdshpbiz/AImod.html

--- In NikonRepair@egroups.com, "James M" <jm_5@n...> wrote:
> Somewhere in cyberspace I came upon a gentleman that aids people in
> repairing/replacing the dead meters in Nikon F finders.
> Unfortunately, I didn't bookmark him and can't remember his URL.
> Do any of you know who I'm talking about?  I'll keep searching the
> net, but it's a needle-in-a-haystack situation!
> Thanks in advance for any info.

-----------------------
Subject:
          Re: Nikon Meter Repair
    Date:
          Tue, 2 Jan 2001 13:09:31 EST
    From:
          Drwyn@...
      To:
          gherndon@...




Greg,
I would be happy to repair and calibrate your Nikon F meter for you.
I have
all the spare parts to ensure a proper and complete repair.
Afterwards, the
meter should work for a long time.  I ask for a flat rate of $75 plus
$4 for
return shipping.  This includes any meter parts that may be needed to
repair
the meter.
It takes about one week turnaround time.

If you would like me to repair your Nikon F meter, send the prism (not
the
body) and a $79 check to me at:
Robert Decker
767 East 100 North
Pleasant Grove, Utah
84062

Please tell me what you would like to do.
Regards,
Robert

---------

I am just getting ready to send my Tn finder for repair. This
gentelman also has a web site.
http://members.aol.com/_ht_a/drwyn/myhomepage/index.html

I hope this helps....

Hi friends:
I have troubles with the focusung ring (stuck) of my micro nikor 55mm f:2.8 ,
and i cant open the lens , can some one help my?, How can i take it appart?Wich
is the best way to clean fungus in a lens?
Tanks and Happy 2.001
Luis Guillemo Martinez memoinc@...
Santa Marta Colombia


[Non-text portions of this message have been removed]

Hi Ira!

I did not get round to checking the part numbers. In my FM2 rep. manual
there are many references to part sharing with FE2. I am confident that the
bottom and back are shared, but I sure will check.

I am not in Germany but Denmark! I thought to remember that Camera Direct
(http://www.camera-direct.com) in the UK had the AS-17 but now I can't find
it there. On the NikonMF the economy of getting an AS-17 as compared to an
original F3-style TTL flash was recently discussed. It seems to make
economically sense to leave the AS-17 alone (but for the SB-29 it would be
needed).

Best regards,
--
Lars Holst Hansen - LHHansen@...
http://www.zi.ku.dk/personal/lhhansen
http://www.egroups.com/subscribe/NikonRepair

Ira Stewart wrote:

> Please do get me the part number! Also, is the bottom plate for an
> FE-2 the same as for an FM-2? I need a bottom plate for a black FE-2.
>
> I noticed you are in Germany. Can you buy a Nikon AS-17 there? My
> understanding is that presently, Nikon dealers in the USA can NOT get
> the AS-17 because Nikon won't allow it. Anybody know more about this?
>
> If you have a Nikon F3, then you NEED an AS-17 as it enables you to
> body mount and use Nikon's "standard" TTL flashes.
...

Hi Len!

The MF lenses I have bought new have not been accompanied by hoods!

Best,
--
Lars Holst Hansen - LHHansen@...
http://www.zi.ku.dk/personal/lhhansen
http://www.egroups.com/subscribe/NikonRepair

> ... And where do all of the lens hoods go that came
> with the lens when it was purchased?  Every time I buy a used
> lens I have to search high and low for the correct hood.  :-) ...
>

The book below sounds good. I have the author's other two books and
they are well written.
Copied from Amazon.com's web site:

Nikon Camera Repair Handbook
by Thomas Tomosy
List Price: $39.95
Our Price: $31.96
This item will be published in January 2001. You may order it now and
we will ship it to you when it arrives.
Paperback - 144 pages (January 2001)
Amherst Media; ISBN: 1584280417

Nikon cameras demonstrate some of the highest quality optical and
machine work in the world. In this step-by-step manual, Nikon owners
will discover how to disassemble, maintain, clean, repair, and
restore camera bodies, including rangefinders, mechanical SLRs,
electronic SLRs, and underwater cameras. Also included is information
needed to clean, repair, and restore lenses and photographic
accessories. Each model is discussed individually and accompanied by
illustrative photos and detailed instructions. Lists of basic skills,
precautions, and tools necessary to complete repairs are also
provided.
About the Author
Thomas Tomosy is a master camera technician. He is the author of
Camera Maintenance & Repair, Restoring Classic and Collectible
Cameras, Restoring the Great Collectible Cameras, and Leica Camera
Repair Handbook. He lives in Vancouver, British Columbia, Canada.

They have been available at Adorama in NY. (At least that's where I found
mine!)

Hi,
In the FM2 manual the Back is listed as subassembly B2016 / part 1B620-014-2
It includes Anything but the pressure plate (B017/1B001-086). There is no
mentioning of a chrome and black version.

Th Bottom plate is listed as subassembly B019A / part 1B620-008-2 for the
chrome and subassembly B019B / part 1B620-010 for the
black version.

There was NO mentioning of a part sharing with FE 2 for either part!


There recently was a post on Maxwell, Australia, still servicing the FE2.
The might be willing to help with info.

Best regards,
Lars.
--
Lars Holst Hansen - LHHansen@...
http://www.zi.ku.dk/personal/lhhansen
http://www.egroups.com/subscribe/NikonRepair

> Ira Stewart wrote:
> Please do get me the part number! Also, is the bottom plate for an
> FE-2 the same as for an FM-2? I need a bottom plate for a black FE-2.
>

on 1/4/01 7:32 AM, Hansen, Lars Holst wrote:

> There was NO mentioning of a part sharing with FE 2 for either part!
>
I have both an FM and FE2, and the backs should be completely
interchangeable, as they  both (almost) take the same databack. The almost
is the MF-16, which uses internal contacts not present on the FM. I have
chrome models, and all my backs are black. I think there's another in the
line which also can take the same backs, but it doesn't come to mind, just
now. I may be mistaken.
  --
William Gartin <william_gartin@...>

Hi,
That would be the FA.
Best,
--
Lars Holst Hansen - LHHansen@...
http://www.zi.ku.dk/personal/lhhansen
http://www.egroups.com/subscribe/NikonRepair


> William Gartin wrote:
> I have both an FM and FE2, and the backs should be completely
> interchangeable ... I think there's another in the
> line which also can take the same backs, but it doesn't come to mind, just
> now. I may be mistaken.
>

on 1/4/01 8:40 AM, Hansen, Lars Holst wrote:

> Hi,
> That would be the FA.
> Best,
> --
Thanks, Lars. I haven't had quite enough coffee, yet. My brain's running a
bit slow.   :-)
  --
William Gartin <william_gartin@...>

Hi

Would anyone on this list know if there is someone in Scandinavia
(preferrably Sweden) that fixes old Nikons? This would ideally
include servicing bodies as well as modifying lenses.

Thanks in advance,

/Dimitris

Hi Dimitris!
It seems that Nikon Svenska AB (http://www.nikon.se/) has a repair section
(http://www.nikon.se/serviceindex.htm), but wether they will cater for old
Nikons, I don't know. They might even have some AI modification kits
available as DFA in Denmark had (see
http://www.zi.ku.dk/personal/lhhansen/photo/repair/aimod/aimod.htm).

Best regards,
--
Lars Holst Hansen - LHHansen@...
http://www.zi.ku.dk/personal/lhhansen
http://www.egroups.com/subscribe/NikonRepair

> dimitris.dimitriadis wrote:
>
>Would anyone on this list know if there is someone in Scandinavia
> (preferrably Sweden) that fixes old Nikons? This would ideally
> include servicing bodies as well as modifying lenses.
>

Dear All:

My Nikon FE2 Repair manual lists the back as Auxilliary Number B2016, Part
Number 1B620-014-5 and as mentioned, excludes the pressure plate.  This part
is common to both the chrome and black bodies.


Alan Hazlett
Cameraworks
alanwhaz@...

I have seen a lot of inquiries on this site as to where to obtain
certain items, and thought that I'd plug a local uesd camera retailer
that i have done a great deal of business with and have always been
satisfied. He has a website(currently still a lot to be added) at
www.chuckrubin.com there is a section for e-mail requests of items
there.He has anestensive supply of used Nikon gear on hand. And if you
go, tell him i sent ya!

Hello Lars,

The lenses I bought in the far east all came with hoods in the
box, and most with a case, some bubble and some leather.
According to Nikon in Japan, when I asked, they said that they
ship the same package to the U.S., as they do to anywhere else,
even in Japan.  Interesting, isn't it?

Regards,

Len
---

> Hi Len!
>
> The MF lenses I have bought new have not been
> accompanied by hoods!
>
> Best,
> --
> Lars Holst Hansen - LHHansen@...
> http://www.zi.ku.dk/personal/lhhansen
> http://www.egroups.com/subscribe/NikonRepair

Lars, your posted:
[snip]

>it consists of four fields:
>"Page no.", "Paragraph exerpt ", "Comment or suggestion", "Contributor"

I have some comments on the Silver Pixel edition of Peter Braczko's
book.
How exactly do I enter the info into the database?

Thanks,

Ricky Livers
Chesapeake, Virginia  USA

Hi Ricky!
As I posted to the NikonMF the uploads of the bases to NikonRepair was
merely meant as a test of the layout. It is my intension to upload final
bases to the larger and morer general NikonMF group. But perhaps a data
adding might even by useful!
You will actually find an answer to your question @
http://www.egroups.com/help/database.html#2
The help function of Egroups is quite handilly made. Where ever you are on
the pag4es if you need help a push on the help "button" will get you a,
little FAQ related to the page you were on. There is no long list of
incomprehensible terms like in an MS help function.

The fields themselves should be rather self-explanatory (at least I intended
them to be so).
In "Page no." one simply types the page number the comment of correction
refers to.
In "Paragraph exerpt" the place is precised.
The "Comment or suggestion" field is where to put the information.
In ""Contributor" one can put ones name, or email, or both.

Best regards,
Lars

> -----Original Message-----
> From: Ricky Livers [SMTP:rlivers@...]
> Sent: Friday, January 05, 2001 3:59 AM
> To: NikonRepair@egroups.com
> Subject: [NikonRepair] RE: Nikon litterature correction data base
>
> Lars, your posted:
> [snip]
>
> >it consists of four fields:
> >"Page no.", "Paragraph exerpt ", "Comment or suggestion", "Contributor"
>
> I have some comments on the Silver Pixel edition of Peter Braczko's
> book.
> How exactly do I enter the info into the database?
>
> Thanks,
>
> Ricky Livers
> Chesapeake, Virginia  USA
>
> To unsubscribe simply mailto:NikonRepair-unsubscribe@egroups.com
> To edit profile go to http://www.egroups.com/myprofile?edit

At 08:40 2001-01-05 +0000, dimitris.dimitriadis@... wrote:

>Would anyone on this list know if there is someone in Scandinavia
>(preferrably Sweden) that fixes old Nikons? This would ideally
>include servicing bodies as well as modifying lenses.
>Dimitris

Hi Dimitris, you can ask LP Foto in Stockholm.
http://www.lpfoto.se

Their start page has a link to _reparation_.

You can also find a few authorised repair services on page 76 in the last
issue of Swedish _FOTO_

Regards/
Jan

Thanks a ton, Tony!!
I found your old posting of Aug while searching for this topic.
I just completed modifying my F3, and the modification works
perfectly. It took about half an hour to do it, oh man - some of the
parts are SMALL!
Cheers!
Anil
1/05/01

--- In NikonRepair@egroups.com, "Anthony Schreck" <absphoto@a...>
wrote:
> Grant:
>  Hi, I also have an F3 T and a beater F3 Which I modified to
> illuminate constantly upon depressing the shutter release.
>
> "I have heard that it is straight-forward to gain access to the
> button....... Any other caveats (like springs that will fly out
when
> the plate is removed)?"
>
> Yes it is pretty straight foreward and yes there are things that
can
> come out. the red button actually presses a small foam grey pad

<SNIP>

Best of luck.
>
> Tony

Where can I get the F3 repair/service manual?
Thanks!
Anil.

From NIKON USA in Torrance, CA. I is available on CDs.

Tsun Tam

Anil Advani wrote:

> Where can I get the F3 repair/service manual?
> Thanks!
> Anil.
>
>
>
>                       eGroups Sponsor
   [Wireless web technology from Motorola]
>
> To unsubscribe simply mailto:NikonRepair-unsubscribe@egroups.com
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[Non-text portions of this message have been removed]