http://pano2movie.com/

On 2011-12-24 8:53 AM, Steve Townsend wrote:
> Hi
>
> How is the best way to import part of a virtual tour into a video. Say I have
x 1920x1080 video and I want part of a 360 VT with a pan or rotation movement.
>
> I could screen grab with iShowU or similar but there must be something more
sophisticated and much better.
>
> Happy Xmas to all.
>
> Steve Townsend
>
>
>
> ------------------------------------
>


--
Jim Watters
http://photocreations.ca

--- In PanoToolsNG@yahoogroups.com, "Steve Townsend" <steve@...> wrote:
>
> Hi
>
> How is the best way to import part of a virtual tour into a video. Say I have
x 1920x1080 video and I want part of a 360 VT with a pan or rotation movement.
>
> I could screen grab with iShowU or similar but there must be something more
sophisticated and much better.
>


I have a page about the different ways to do it here
http://panoramas.dk/panorama/video/

Hans

--- In PanoToolsNG@yahoogroups.com, Christian Bloch <Blochi@...> wrote:
>
> I recommend Trapcode Horizon for After Effects:
> www.redgiantsoftware.com/products/all/trapcode-horizon/
>
> Here's a quick test I made: http://vimeo.com/21316143
>
>

Hi Christian

Had a look at your Vimeo example and would like to try Horizon

But realistically, whilst I do have After Effects CS5, I have no working
knowledge of the program.

I know it is a difficult question to answer but just concerned about the
learning curve with AE combined with Horizon to achieve a result.

Your thoughts would be appreciated.

I don't think checking out your email domain edenfx.com helped me because all of
that looks very serious stuff!!!!

Hi ! do you know if there's a plugin for viewwing panoramas with javascript
only? (without flash, css3, webgl, etc)
Something like Google Street View:
http://code.google.com/intl/es-AR/apis/maps/documentation/javascript/services.ht\
ml#StreetView

I know is not the same, but it's a good fallback if anything else fails don't
you think (for example old androids, or smartphones with symbian, etc)?

John,
Thanks for the reply. I have found Panoweaver very simple to use.

I have downloaded the images of D300 and D3. Found that all though D300 has more
pixels, D3 is better in image quality.

Now still confused if to go for D700 or D7000.
Which camera will give me better image quality? Sorry to say but I don't
understand cameras and image parameters. I need to have excellent image quality
which will produce highest quality panorama.

Thanks.
Regards,
Sachin Pate

--- In PanoToolsNG@yahoogroups.com, "John Houghton" <j.houghton@...> wrote:
>
> --- In PanoToolsNG@yahoogroups.com, "sachinpate007" <sachinpate007@> wrote:
> > I don't understand what would be the quality difference between
> > cylindrical and spherical panorama? Also diffrence in difficulty in
> > stiching 3 images vs 6 images.
>
> The D700 + Sigma 8mm would produce a maximum size 360x180 equirectangular
image of around 5400x2700 pixels.
>
> The D7000 + Samyang 8mm would produce a maximum size 360x180 equirectangular
image of around 11400x5700 pixels.
>
> Clearly, the D7000 combination will produce the higher resolution (i.e. the
most pixels), but there's rather more to image quality than mere numbers of
pixels; and how many pixels do you actually need?  Sharpness, flare & glare,
colour aberrations, vignetting, useable aperture range: all are factors to be
considered.  I don't myself use Nikon gear as I went the Canon way, so I can't
offer any informed comments on the cameras.  As far as panorama image size goes,
as a guide I would say 6000x3000 is needed for fullscreen viewing.  Others, with
larger screens in mind, might well suggest a higher figure.
>
> Ideally, you want to have access to sample images taken with this equipment in
the same location at the same time (or at least in similar lighting conditions).
You can then stitch them yourself and make your own judgement of quality, ease
of stitching etc.  360Precision made a good start in making such images
available for commonly used equipment, but alas soon ground to a halt.
Nevertheless, there are sets of images available there that would be useful for
test purposes that would help to answer some of your questions:  see
http://tinyurl.com/2f9sgh .  Whether there are 3 or 6 images to stitch hardly
matters as far as stitching difficulty goes, but it's hard to deny that fewer
images are easier to mange.
>
> John
>

Hello All,
Can you please explain me the difference in the image quality of D700 and D7000?
I am basically looking for a camera to shoot for 360*180 panorama creation.Also
will use cameras to shoot buildings and road junctions.

Can you please help me to choose between cameras?

Thanks a lot for your help.

Regards,
Sachin

If you go to this URL...

http://www.nikonusa.com/Nikon-Products/Digital-SLR-Cameras/index.page

You can select the 2 cameras and hit the compare button to see the difference
between them. You will get all the details.

Luc

--- In PanoToolsNG@yahoogroups.com, "sachinpate007" <sachinpate007@...> wrote:
>
> Hello All,
> Can you please explain me the difference in the image quality of D700 and
D7000?
> I am basically looking for a camera to shoot for 360*180 panorama
creation.Also will use cameras to shoot buildings and road junctions.
>
> Can you please help me to choose between cameras?
>
> Thanks a lot for your help.
>
> Regards,
> Sachin
>

Am 27.12.2011 11:47, schrieb sachinpate007:
> Which camera will give me better image quality? Sorry to say but I
> don't understand cameras and image parameters. I need to have
> excellent image quality which will produce highest quality panorama.

You should consider a few things for a decision. What exactly do you
mean by "image quality"? If you mean resolution the focal length of the
lens plays a higher role than the camera. You can always get higher
resolution from a given camera by using a longer lens and shoot more
images. So camera resolution is only relevant if you want to get a
higher panorama resolution with a given number of shots. For a table see
http://wiki.panotools.org/DSLR_spherical_resolution

Next thing to consider is dynamic range. If you shoot interiors or other
non-moving scenery you can always extend dynamic range by shooting
bracketed. If you go for crowd panoramas the dynamic range of the camera
might be an issue. You get nice diagrams to compare those features on
http://www.dxomark.com/index.php especially http://tinyurl.com/d6xt3ps

Color depth and low light abilities might be an issue as well...

--
Erik Krause

I manipulate my panoramic images as large TIFF files until I'm
eventually ready to send a final image to a printer, where it needs to
be a JPG file and greatly reduced in size.

Please share with me your favorite software/process/workflow for
converting large TIFFs to JPGs in reasonable sizes that printers like,
but that don't compromise too much detail.

BTW, I own Photomatix, PTGui, DxO Optics Pro, and Jasc Paint Shop Pro 8.

I DO NOT OWN Photoshop (too complicated), and while I DO OWN Lightroom
(also insanely complicated for someone of my limited mental capacity), I
hate it with a passion and never use it unless absolutely necessary, and
then it always inspires weeping, wailing and gnashing of teeth.

Your thoughts?  Thanks in advance for your generous response.


--
--Peter

Peter A. Schaible

Am 27.12.2011 16:44, schrieb Peter A. Schaible:
> Please share with me your favorite software/process/workflow for
> converting large TIFFs to JPGs in reasonable sizes that printers like,
> but that don't compromise too much detail.

What printes do you use? If you don't upload your file I doubt it needs
to be jpeg. Jpeg is limited to 30000 pixels each side, so you won't be
able to print larger panoramas at a good resolution.

If you print on your own local printer I recommend a dedicated printing
program which can read a lot of file formats, is color managed and knows
about the printer native resolution.

You can use a RIP for that but this is an expensive solution. I use
QImage to get the best results from my Epson printer. It uses very
sophisticated resizing algorithms and allows for roll paper printing
even beyond the maximum printable size by printing several chunks
without seams and much more... Even if you print online QImage might be
a god solution, since it optimizes and formats images for online print
services.

--
Erik Krause

Am 27.12.2011 19:49, schrieb Erik Krause:
> What printes do you use?

Should read: What printer do you use?

--
Erik Krause

Erik, with all due respect to you and Sacha, your replies are as clear as mud to
me.

All I am asking for is the name of a program or procedure (work flow) for
changing TIFFs to JPGs.  I don't do my own high-end printing. The people who do
that for me -- there is more than one -- want JPGs.  I finish making a blended
and stitched panoramic and I have a very large TIFF file.  How should I convert
it to JPEG and make it smaller and more manageable?



--- In PanoToolsNG@yahoogroups.com, Erik Krause <erik.krause@...> wrote:
>
> Am 27.12.2011 16:44, schrieb Peter A. Schaible:
> > Please share with me your favorite software/process/workflow for
> > converting large TIFFs to JPGs in reasonable sizes that printers like,
> > but that don't compromise too much detail.
>
> What printes do you use? If you don't upload your file I doubt it needs
> to be jpeg. Jpeg is limited to 30000 pixels each side, so you won't be
> able to print larger panoramas at a good resolution.
>
> If you print on your own local printer I recommend a dedicated printing
> program which can read a lot of file formats, is color managed and knows
> about the printer native resolution.
>
> You can use a RIP for that but this is an expensive solution. I use
> QImage to get the best results from my Epson printer. It uses very
> sophisticated resizing algorithms and allows for roll paper printing
> even beyond the maximum printable size by printing several chunks
> without seams and much more... Even if you print online QImage might be
> a god solution, since it optimizes and formats images for online print
> services.
>
> --
> Erik Krause
>

 

Erik, with all due respect to you and Sacha, your replies are as clear as mud to me.

All I am asking for is the name of a program or procedure (work flow) for changing TIFFs to JPGs. I don't do my own high-end printing. The people who do that for me -- there is more than one -- want JPGs. I finish making a blended and stitched panoramic and I have a very large TIFF file. How should I convert it to JPEG and make it smaller and more manageable?

--- In PanoToolsNG@yahoogroups.com, Erik Krause <erik.krause@...> wrote:
>
> Am 27.12.2011 16:44, schrieb Peter A. Schaible:
> > Please share with me your favorite software/process/workflow for
> > converting large TIFFs to JPGs in reasonable sizes that printers like,
> > but that don't compromise too much detail.
>
> What printes do you use? If you don't upload your file I doubt it needs
> to be jpeg. Jpeg is limited to 30000 pixels each side, so you won't be
> able to print larger panoramas at a good resolution.
>
> If you print on your own local printer I recommend a dedicated printing
> program which can read a lot of file formats, is color managed and knows
> about the printer native resolution.
>
> You can use a RIP for that but this is an expensive solution. I use
> QImage to get the best results from my Epson printer. It uses very
> sophisticated resizing algorithms and allows for roll paper printing
> even beyond the maximum printable size by printing several chunks
> without seams and much more... Even if you print online QImage might be
> a god solution, since it optimizes and formats images for online print
> services.
>
> --
> Erik Krause
>

You might try this -
Open the tif in Photomatrix.
Go to 'utilities' and 'resize' to the appropriate image size for printing.  (300
pixels per inch.  Less and you may start seeing dots at a 'normal' viewing
distance.)
Save file as jpg.  (Use high quality setting.  If your printer charges by the
file size, or sending larger files is a problem, try test prints at lower
quality settings for smaller file size, until the jpg compression induced
artifacts become objectionable.)
Send to printer service.



--- In PanoToolsNG@yahoogroups.com, "Peter A. Schaible" <peter@...> wrote:
>
> I manipulate my panoramic images as large TIFF files until I'm
> eventually ready to send a final image to a printer, where it needs to
> be a JPG file and greatly reduced in size.
>
> Please share with me your favorite software/process/workflow for
> converting large TIFFs to JPGs in reasonable sizes that printers like,
> but that don't compromise too much detail.
>
> BTW, I own Photomatix, PTGui, DxO Optics Pro, and Jasc Paint Shop Pro 8.
>
> I DO NOT OWN Photoshop (too complicated), and while I DO OWN Lightroom
> (also insanely complicated for someone of my limited mental capacity), I
> hate it with a passion and never use it unless absolutely necessary, and
> then it always inspires weeping, wailing and gnashing of teeth.
>
> Your thoughts?  Thanks in advance for your generous response.
>
>
> --
> --Peter
>
> Peter A. Schaible
>

Sacha,

Try opening up Lightroom and in the Library module (the one you are in when you
open it up) choose IMPORT. Find your file and import it. Then with the thumbnail
of your file still highlighted/selected, choose EXPORT. In the dialogue box for
format choose JPG, in the finder choose a place in your files to export it or
choose desktop - shoot it down the tube
and you're done with this.

Lane
--- In PanoToolsNG@yahoogroups.com, Sacha Griffin <sachagriffin@...> wrote:
>
> Lol! Pretty sure your lightroom will do that. If its not available in your
> save as dialog, ensure you've changed its mode to 8 bits, then jpg should
> show up. Or google "how to save jpg lightroom". You did say you have
> lightroom right?
>
> Sent from my iPad
>
> On Dec 27, 2011, at 8:32 PM, Peter <peter@...> wrote:
>
>
>
> Erik, with all due respect to you and Sacha, your replies are as clear as
> mud to me.
>
> All I am asking for is the name of a program or procedure (work flow) for
> changing TIFFs to JPGs. I don't do my own high-end printing. The people who
> do that for me -- there is more than one -- want JPGs. I finish making a
> blended and stitched panoramic and I have a very large TIFF file. How
> should I convert it to JPEG and make it smaller and more manageable?
>
> --- In PanoToolsNG@yahoogroups.com, Erik Krause <erik.krause@> wrote:
> >
> > Am 27.12.2011 16:44, schrieb Peter A. Schaible:
> > > Please share with me your favorite software/process/workflow for
> > > converting large TIFFs to JPGs in reasonable sizes that printers like,
> > > but that don't compromise too much detail.
> >
> > What printes do you use? If you don't upload your file I doubt it needs
> > to be jpeg. Jpeg is limited to 30000 pixels each side, so you won't be
> > able to print larger panoramas at a good resolution.
> >
> > If you print on your own local printer I recommend a dedicated printing
> > program which can read a lot of file formats, is color managed and knows
> > about the printer native resolution.
> >
> > You can use a RIP for that but this is an expensive solution. I use
> > QImage to get the best results from my Epson printer. It uses very
> > sophisticated resizing algorithms and allows for roll paper printing
> > even beyond the maximum printable size by printing several chunks
> > without seams and much more... Even if you print online QImage might be
> > a god solution, since it optimizes and formats images for online print
> > services.
> >
> > --
> > Erik Krause
> >
>

I finally got Lightroom and it's the best raw converter I've used.  I will do
everything you need and it's really simple to use once you figure out it's
catalog model.

One thing, I like NeatImage noise removal better than Lightroom's but NeatImage
can be used with Lightroom.

Take some time to learn it.  Well worth the effort.

Christian Bloch wrote:
> Your problem is right there. Lightroom is not something you'd use every once
in a while, it is the center of the digital image management. Get a book on
Lightroom if you can't figure it out on your own.
>
>
> On Dec 27, 2011, at 7:44 AM, Peter A. Schaible wrote:
>
>> I DO OWN Lightroom …., I hate it with a passion and never use it unless
absolutely necessary,
>
>

Has anyone tried this service?

http://www.cameratrace.com/

What has your experience been?

Please share.  Thanks.

   -- Peter

An aurora pano would be something interesting and hard to do.

http://spaceweather.com/

Lately I have been shooting stereo videos with twin Gopro Hero2 cameras -- which
have a fisheye lens with about 140 degrees HFOV at the widest video settings.
PTGui or other stitching software is good for leveling, aligning and dewarping
these videos once you have converted them to image sequences. Cylindrical or
rectilinear usually looks better than the default fisheye view.

  My workflow is to load the first frame of the L sequence, level that by eye in
the Editor, load the first frame of the R sequence, mask so only distant areas
are visible in both shots, find points, set the calibration for individual h and
v (shift), and solve for the r, p, y for the r shot, and h and v for l and r.

Now to process all the L shots say the obvious thing to do would be to delete
the R shot, add the rest of the L shots, set all the parameters to be the same
as the first shot and process them setting output to individual images.

But with more than say 800 HD frames on my hardware PTGui crashes after a while.
Thinks. So what I do now is this. Save the L settings say as a template. Use the
Batch Builder to make projects for each of the individual frames, ie. thousands
of individual projects. Use the L template as input of course. Feed the projects
to the Batch Stitcher. This way it never crashes. Only it is slower than the
usual way but not too bad -- say 5000 frames in 50 minutes. If one could run
multiple instances of the Batch Stitcher that would be cool but I dont think one
can.

Here is a fisheye to cylindrical stereo movie done this way with my Gopros
(hacked slightly to have more than the usual interaxial separation -- 8cm here)
http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=DZHVe0j_GjU
This is cylindrical perspective cropped to about 110 degrees

PeterM

Am 28.12.2011 02:31, schrieb Peter:
> I finish making a blended and stitched panoramic and I have a very
> large TIFF file.  How should I convert it to JPEG and make it smaller
> and more manageable?

For best printing results don't convert. If you need to convert use the
highest possible quality setting. If you have a file size limitation
first reduce pixel size to a tolerable value. This depends on how large
the image will be and how it will be shown: 300 ppi for high quality
prints, 150 ppi for medium quality, 75 ppi for posters that will be
viewed from a distance. Then reduce quality until below file size limit.
This should be possible with any image editor or viewer.

--
Erik Krause
http://www.erik-krause.de

Pat and I wish y'all a very Happy New Year 2012