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#56069 From: Matthew Rogers <matthew@...>
Date: Fri Jan 18, 2013 8:44 am
Subject: Re: Re: First sneak peak at the Flashificator H5 (HTML5) panorama player
threesixtypr...
Send Email Send Email
 
Hi Trausti,

If that were the case then ti would happen with other HTML5 players but it doesn't. I know in this instance it's easy to blame Apple but if other solutions don't exhibit the problem then it's on your end.

Matt

On 18 Jan 2013, at 00:08, Trausti Hraunfjord <trausti.hraunfjord@...> wrote:

 

White lines do appear on certain image sizes.  If one doesn't like that, talk to Apple and have them to improve their browser and affected hardware :)
Some of their hardware handles things properly, other hardware doesn't.  That is inconsistency on their end and not ours.

Of course we will research which cubeface sizes will be ok and recommend use of the line-less sizes.

Trausti



On Thu, Jan 17, 2013 at 3:53 AM, Matthew Rogers <matthew@...> wrote:
 

I've not read back through all the comments so this might have been discussed. On Safari 6.0.2 on OS X 10.8.2 I can see a one pixel white line between all the cube faces. For me this is a no go for using the player.


Matt

On 16 Jan 2013, at 18:21, Trausti Hraunfjord <trausti.hraunfjord@...> wrote:

 

I guess we will find out if things are really that bad for Firefox+Hotspots when we get to that mountain in a couple of days or so.  It wouldn't surprise me at all if that would be the case.  

Trausti

On Wed, Jan 16, 2013 at 3:43 AM, Hans <hans@...> wrote:
also some server cache issu









#56070 From: Trausti Hraunfjord <trausti.hraunfjord@...>
Date: Fri Jan 18, 2013 8:56 am
Subject: Re: Re: First sneak peak at the Flashificator H5 (HTML5) panorama player
blueslander
Send Email Send Email
 
Do you have an example with another HTML5 player where 1448x1448 cubefaces are used, for me to see and confirm, or know of such an example somewhere?

Trausti




On Fri, Jan 18, 2013 at 3:44 AM, Matthew Rogers <matthew@...> wrote:
 

Hi Trausti,


If that were the case then ti would happen with other HTML5 players but it doesn't. I know in this instance it's easy to blame Apple but if other solutions don't exhibit the problem then it's on your end.

Matt

On 18 Jan 2013, at 00:08, Trausti Hraunfjord <trausti.hraunfjord@...> wrote:

 

White lines do appear on certain image sizes.  If one doesn't like that, talk to Apple and have them to improve their browser and affected hardware :)
Some of their hardware handles things properly, other hardware doesn't.  That is inconsistency on their end and not ours.

Of course we will research which cubeface sizes will be ok and recommend use of the line-less sizes.

Trausti



On Thu, Jan 17, 2013 at 3:53 AM, Matthew Rogers <matthew@...> wrote:
 

I've not read back through all the comments so this might have been discussed. On Safari 6.0.2 on OS X 10.8.2 I can see a one pixel white line between all the cube faces. For me this is a no go for using the player.


Matt

On 16 Jan 2013, at 18:21, Trausti Hraunfjord <trausti.hraunfjord@...> wrote:

 

I guess we will find out if things are really that bad for Firefox+Hotspots when we get to that mountain in a couple of days or so.  It wouldn't surprise me at all if that would be the case.  

Trausti

On Wed, Jan 16, 2013 at 3:43 AM, Hans <hans@...> wrote:
also some server cache issu










#56071 From: "Ormar" <rmrtmm@...>
Date: Fri Jan 18, 2013 8:58 am
Subject: Re: Good Japanese Newspaper Panorama Site
rmrtmm
Send Email Send Email
 
Is it this, the correct link you meant?
http://photo.sankei.jp.msn.com/panorama/

--- In PanoToolsNG@yahoogroups.com, Roger D Williams  wrote:
>
> Visit http://sankei.jp.msn.com/images/sankei/panorama/2012/1210doitsu001/
>
> to see some professional panoramas of Japan. The Sankei started hosting
panoramas after the Great East Japan Earthquake and Tsunami, and frankly these
were so heart-rending to me as a long-term resident and lover of Japan that I
couldn't bear to look at them. Now the site has moved on to more mundane
things... There are some excellent pole panoramas of the Japanese Olympic
medalists as their cavalcade wended its way through a crowded Ginza. You'll also
see monkeys enjoying the warmth of hot springs amid the winter snows... I
believe these are the world's northernmost packs of monkeys. The site is well
worth a visit. All in Japanese, of course--you'll have rely on Bing or Google
translation to find your way around if you don't read Japanese.
>
> The site is Flash based but iDevice-friendly links are provided if you click
on the thumbnail and then on the special link under the blank image space.
>
> Roger W
>
> Sent from my iPad
>

#56072 From: Thomas Bredenfeld <mailinglist@...>
Date: Fri Jan 18, 2013 9:22 am
Subject: Re: Panos down to earth...
tom6bred
Send Email Send Email
 
i think it's not off topic at all :-)

needed to think about the same subject some time ago for a project
planning and made some tests.

inverting the center column and taking two panos with 60 deg rotation
offset in itself isn't a bad idea, but practically not achievable with a
sufficient precision, especially when the floor isn't a flat surface.

best what i found out is a tripod and a horizontal or downwards tilted
monopod mounted on it. so the tripod is farer away and easier to
retouch, depending on the background behind the tripod. capturing one
panorama is enough.

some tipps/remarks:
- if you shoot outdoor be sure to have a 90 deg alignment of the monopod
related to the sun and the shadows.
- with a fisheye this method needs 4 shots and the down shot covers the
nadir in the important image area with best quality.
- the longer the monopod, the better.
- dependent on the length you may need a counterweight (which is hardly
visible in the panorama because it's behind the tripod).

maybe this helps a little bit ;-)

best
thomas

Am 18.01.13 01:16, schrieb Gerhard Killesreiter:
> -----BEGIN PGP SIGNED MESSAGE-----
> Hash: SHA1
>
> Hi there,
>
> I hope I a not off topic.
>
> I would like to create a pano that is close to the ground. The minimal
> distance my fisheye can do is about 20cm, so about that close.
>
> The idea is to invert the middle column of the tripod and turn the
> camera on its head. I can take three images around, but then I'll have
> the legs of the tripod (and their shadow) in all of them. I think I
> would need a 2nd set of images with the tripod rotated by 60°.
>
> Now my problem: How to I ensure that the camera is at exactly the same
> place after rotating? I would think that this matters a lot since the
> camera is close to the ground.
>
> Cheers,
> Gerhard
> -----BEGIN PGP SIGNATURE-----
> Version: GnuPG v1.4.11 (GNU/Linux)
>
> iEYEARECAAYFAlD4lHYACgkQfg6TFvELooSadgCcDgBzV5/In5LT/5B3M6/yXM/P
> k9kAnR5f1F96BLKUXIXgHV/QtDOTgS/5
> =KKMc
> -----END PGP SIGNATURE-----
>
>

#56073 From: Michel Thoby <thobymichel@...>
Date: Fri Jan 18, 2013 11:12 am
Subject: Re: Panos down to earth...
enbilaman
Send Email Send Email
 
Thomas' shooting principle (that proposes to use a horizontal monopod) is sound and works. At least, a variant of it did work fine for me (I think):
I have paradoxically used the huge Manfrotto 269HDBU 7.5 m long pole! 
The legs were kept folded and the mast was partially extended (about 4 or 5 meters of the bigger tubes only). The whole thing was lying sideways on the ground. The camera was mounted on a NN 5L at the tip of the pole (as usual). The fisheye lens NNP was thus maintained fixed in 3D space, yet kept at about 15-20 cm above the ground just high enough to allow the camera to rotate around the horizontal pole axis: a small block of wood supported the upper part of the pole at about one meter from the camera.
Lot of room is needed when doing that way. Other means have to be devised and deployed if available space is scarce. An example: http://michel.thoby.free.fr/Scholtes/Making-of.html

Michel

Le 18 janv. 2013 à 10:22, Thomas Bredenfeld a écrit :

 

i think it's not off topic at all :-)

needed to think about the same subject some time ago for a project
planning and made some tests.

inverting the center column and taking two panos with 60 deg rotation
offset in itself isn't a bad idea, but practically not achievable with a
sufficient precision, especially when the floor isn't a flat surface.

best what i found out is a tripod and a horizontal or downwards tilted
monopod mounted on it. so the tripod is farer away and easier to
retouch, depending on the background behind the tripod. capturing one
panorama is enough.

some tipps/remarks:
- if you shoot outdoor be sure to have a 90 deg alignment of the monopod
related to the sun and the shadows.
- with a fisheye this method needs 4 shots and the down shot covers the
nadir in the important image area with best quality.
- the longer the monopod, the better.
- dependent on the length you may need a counterweight (which is hardly
visible in the panorama because it's behind the tripod).

maybe this helps a little bit ;-)

best
thomas

Am 18.01.13 01:16, schrieb Gerhard Killesreiter:
> -----BEGIN PGP SIGNED MESSAGE-----
> Hash: SHA1
>
> Hi there,
>
> I hope I a not off topic.
>
> I would like to create a pano that is close to the ground. The minimal
> distance my fisheye can do is about 20cm, so about that close.
>
> The idea is to invert the middle column of the tripod and turn the
> camera on its head. I can take three images around, but then I'll have
> the legs of the tripod (and their shadow) in all of them. I think I
> would need a 2nd set of images with the tripod rotated by 60°.
>
> Now my problem: How to I ensure that the camera is at exactly the same
> place after rotating? I would think that this matters a lot since the
> camera is close to the ground.
>
> Cheers,
> Gerhard



#56074 From: panokaemena@...
Date: Fri Jan 18, 2013 11:45 am
Subject: Re: Panos down to earth...
panokaemena
Send Email Send Email
 
This here http://www.worldwidepanorama.org/worldwidepanorama/wwp309/html/WillyKaemena-5368.html  was done freehand with a monopod shortly above ground

Willy

On Jan 18, 2013, at 1:16, Gerhard Killesreiter <gerhard@...> wrote:

 

-----BEGIN PGP SIGNED MESSAGE-----
Hash: SHA1

Hi there,

I hope I a not off topic.

I would like to create a pano that is close to the ground. The minimal
distance my fisheye can do is about 20cm, so about that close.

The idea is to invert the middle column of the tripod and turn the
camera on its head. I can take three images around, but then I'll have
the legs of the tripod (and their shadow) in all of them. I think I
would need a 2nd set of images with the tripod rotated by 60°.

Now my problem: How to I ensure that the camera is at exactly the same
place after rotating? I would think that this matters a lot since the
camera is close to the ground.

Cheers,
Gerhard
-----BEGIN PGP SIGNATURE-----
Version: GnuPG v1.4.11 (GNU/Linux)

iEYEARECAAYFAlD4lHYACgkQfg6TFvELooSadgCcDgBzV5/In5LT/5B3M6/yXM/P
k9kAnR5f1F96BLKUXIXgHV/QtDOTgS/5
=KKMc
-----END PGP SIGNATURE-----



#56075 From: Gerhard Killesreiter <gerhard@...>
Date: Fri Jan 18, 2013 11:53 am
Subject: Re: Panos down to earth...
gerhard@...
Send Email Send Email
 
-----BEGIN PGP SIGNED MESSAGE-----
Hash: SHA1

Am 18.01.2013 12:12, schrieb Michel Thoby:

> Thomas' shooting principle (that proposes to use a horizontal
> monopod) is sound and works.

Thank you, Thomas!

> At least, a variant of it did work fine for me (I think):
>
http://worldwidepanorama.org/worldwidepanorama/wwp309/html/MichelThoby-5350.html
>
>
I have paradoxically used the huge Manfrotto 269HDBU 7.5 m long pole!

I was looking for something more portable. 8)

I have one of the shorter Manfrotto monopods, I'll see if that works
and how big the tripod will appear in the image.

> The legs were kept folded and the mast was partially extended
> (about 4 or 5 meters of the bigger tubes only). The whole thing was
> lying sideways on the ground. The camera was mounted on a NN 5L at
> the tip of the pole (as usual). The fisheye lens NNP was thus
> maintained fixed in 3D space, yet kept at about 15-20 cm above the
> ground just high enough to allow the camera to rotate around the
> horizontal pole axis: a small block of wood supported the upper
> part of the pole at about one meter from the camera.


how did you get rid of the block in the picture?

> Lot of room is needed when doing that way. Other means have to be
> devised and deployed if available space is scarce. An example:
> http://michel.thoby.free.fr/Scholtes/Making-of.html


Now I am hungry...

Cheers,
Gerhard
-----BEGIN PGP SIGNATURE-----
Version: GnuPG v1.4.11 (GNU/Linux)

iEYEARECAAYFAlD5N6oACgkQfg6TFvELooSFvwCeLP5NSZ0aE8Rb80zI5zG4pb7Z
UNYAn3js9BJ0d7s1h/838vYpF5LnMwbO
=fxK+
-----END PGP SIGNATURE-----

#56076 From: Roger D Williams <roger@...>
Date: Fri Jan 18, 2013 12:38 pm
Subject: Re: Re: Good Japanese Newspaper Panorama Site
roger_d_will...
Send Email Send Email
 
It is an alternative, yes.

Roger W.

Sent from my iPad

On Jan 18, 2013, at 5:58 PM, "Ormar" <rmrtmm@...> wrote:

> Is it this, the correct link you meant?
> http://photo.sankei.jp.msn.com/panorama/
>
> --- In PanoToolsNG@yahoogroups.com, Roger D Williams  wrote:
>>
>> Visit http://sankei.jp.msn.com/images/sankei/panorama/2012/1210doitsu001/
>>
>> to see some professional panoramas of Japan. The Sankei started hosting
panoramas after the Great East Japan Earthquake and Tsunami, and frankly these
were so heart-rending to me as a long-term resident and lover of Japan that I
couldn't bear to look at them. Now the site has moved on to more mundane
things... There are some excellent pole panoramas of the Japanese Olympic
medalists as their cavalcade wended its way through a crowded Ginza. You'll also
see monkeys enjoying the warmth of hot springs amid the winter snows... I
believe these are the world's northernmost packs of monkeys. The site is well
worth a visit. All in Japanese, of course--you'll have rely on Bing or Google
translation to find your way around if you don't read Japanese.
>>
>> The site is Flash based but iDevice-friendly links are provided if you click
on the thumbnail and then on the special link under the blank image space.
>>
>> Roger W
>>
>> Sent from my iPad
>
>
>
>
> ------------------------------------
>
> --
>
>
>

#56077 From: Thomas Bredenfeld <mailinglist@...>
Date: Fri Jan 18, 2013 12:43 pm
Subject: Re: Panos down to earth...
tom6bred
Send Email Send Email
 
something else came in my mind. succeeded in finding it here on the list :-)

http://tech.groups.yahoo.com/group/PanoToolsNG/message/52419

http://indiavrtours.com/pic/low_shot.jpg

maybe it's interesting for you...

keep us posted about your experiments :-)

best
thomas


Am 18.01.13 12:53, schrieb Gerhard Killesreiter:
> -----BEGIN PGP SIGNED MESSAGE-----
> Hash: SHA1
>
> Am 18.01.2013 12:12, schrieb Michel Thoby:
>
>  > Thomas' shooting principle (that proposes to use a horizontal
>  > monopod) is sound and works.
>
> Thank you, Thomas!
>
>  > At least, a variant of it did work fine for me (I think):
>  >
>
http://worldwidepanorama.org/worldwidepanorama/wwp309/html/MichelThoby-5350.html
>  >
>  >
> I have paradoxically used the huge Manfrotto 269HDBU 7.5 m long pole!
>
> I was looking for something more portable. 8)
>
> I have one of the shorter Manfrotto monopods, I'll see if that works
> and how big the tripod will appear in the image.
>
>  > The legs were kept folded and the mast was partially extended
>  > (about 4 or 5 meters of the bigger tubes only). The whole thing was
>  > lying sideways on the ground. The camera was mounted on a NN 5L at
>  > the tip of the pole (as usual). The fisheye lens NNP was thus
>  > maintained fixed in 3D space, yet kept at about 15-20 cm above the
>  > ground just high enough to allow the camera to rotate around the
>  > horizontal pole axis: a small block of wood supported the upper
>  > part of the pole at about one meter from the camera.
>
> how did you get rid of the block in the picture?
>
>  > Lot of room is needed when doing that way. Other means have to be
>  > devised and deployed if available space is scarce. An example:
>  > http://michel.thoby.free.fr/Scholtes/Making-of.html
>
> Now I am hungry...
>
> Cheers,
> Gerhard
> -----BEGIN PGP SIGNATURE-----
> Version: GnuPG v1.4.11 (GNU/Linux)
>
> iEYEARECAAYFAlD5N6oACgkQfg6TFvELooSFvwCeLP5NSZ0aE8Rb80zI5zG4pb7Z
> UNYAn3js9BJ0d7s1h/838vYpF5LnMwbO
> =fxK+
> -----END PGP SIGNATURE-----
>
>

#56078 From: "Mark D. Fink" <markdfink@...>
Date: Fri Jan 18, 2013 1:04 pm
Subject: RE: Panos down to earth...
markdfink
Send Email Send Email
 
I can't remember if it was Yuval Levy or Andras Frenyo who had a weighted
disc that they put beneath their camera with a short bolt to attach to the
camera, but I do remember seeing it several years ago in NYC. That got them
just a few inches off the ground, or tabletop if that is the location you
are looking for. There was just the nadir to patch then, and that could be
shot handheld.

Mark

-----Original Message-----
From: PanoToolsNG@yahoogroups.com [mailto:PanoToolsNG@yahoogroups.com] On
Behalf Of Gerhard Killesreiter
Sent: Thursday, January 17, 2013 7:17 PM
To: PanoToolsNG@yahoogroups.com
Subject: [PanoToolsNG] Panos down to earth...

-----BEGIN PGP SIGNED MESSAGE-----
Hash: SHA1

Hi there,

I hope I a not off topic.

I would like to create a pano that is close to the ground. The minimal
distance my fisheye can do is about 20cm, so about that close.

The idea is to invert the middle column of the tripod and turn the
camera on its head. I can take three images around, but then I'll have
the legs of the tripod (and their shadow) in all of them.  I think I
would need a 2nd set of images with the tripod rotated by 60°.

Now my problem: How to I ensure that the camera is at exactly the same
place after rotating? I would think that this matters a lot since the
camera is close to the ground.

Cheers,
Gerhard
-----BEGIN PGP SIGNATURE-----
Version: GnuPG v1.4.11 (GNU/Linux)

iEYEARECAAYFAlD4lHYACgkQfg6TFvELooSadgCcDgBzV5/In5LT/5B3M6/yXM/P
k9kAnR5f1F96BLKUXIXgHV/QtDOTgS/5
=KKMc
-----END PGP SIGNATURE-----


------------------------------------

--

#56079 From: "Sacha Griffin" <sachagriffin@...>
Date: Fri Jan 18, 2013 4:08 pm
Subject: RE: Panos down to earth...
sachagriffin
Send Email Send Email
 

If you don’t mind the extra photoshop work or room for errors.. you system should be ok.

I use a plumb from the edge of the lens to place a dime. Then you can re-match position easily. You’ll also need to notate the height on the line.

 

Better would be add an extension the center column and heavy weight the tripod to extend back over. This will put the areas to retouch much farther away and reduce the parallax error you introduced by repositioning, and reduce the number of edges to worry about.

 

Best Regards,

 

Sacha Griffin

Southern Digital Solutions LLC  - Atlanta, Georgia

http://www.seeit360.com

http://twitter.com/SeeIt360

http://www.facebook.com/SeeIt360

IM: sachagriffin007@...

Office: 404-551-4275

 

 

From: PanoToolsNG@yahoogroups.com [mailto:PanoToolsNG@yahoogroups.com] On Behalf Of Gerhard Killesreiter
Sent: Thursday, January 17, 2013 7:17 PM
To: PanoToolsNG@yahoogroups.com
Subject: [PanoToolsNG] Panos down to earth...

 

 

-----BEGIN PGP SIGNED MESSAGE-----
Hash: SHA1

Hi there,

I hope I a not off topic.

I would like to create a pano that is close to the ground. The minimal
distance my fisheye can do is about 20cm, so about that close.

The idea is to invert the middle column of the tripod and turn the
camera on its head. I can take three images around, but then I'll have
the legs of the tripod (and their shadow) in all of them. I think I
would need a 2nd set of images with the tripod rotated by 60°.

Now my problem: How to I ensure that the camera is at exactly the same
place after rotating? I would think that this matters a lot since the
camera is close to the ground.

Cheers,
Gerhard
-----BEGIN PGP SIGNATURE-----
Version: GnuPG v1.4.11 (GNU/Linux)

iEYEARECAAYFAlD4lHYACgkQfg6TFvELooSadgCcDgBzV5/In5LT/5B3M6/yXM/P
k9kAnR5f1F96BLKUXIXgHV/QtDOTgS/5
=KKMc
-----END PGP SIGNATURE-----


#56080 From: "erik_leeman" <erik.leeman@...>
Date: Fri Jan 18, 2013 4:27 pm
Subject: Re: Panos down to earth...
erik_leeman
Send Email Send Email
 
The business end of that horizontal pole could also look something like this:

<http://www.flickr.com/photos/erik-nl/6059502647/in/photostream>

This way you get your zenith and nadir where they usually are, something I
prefer in most cases. Downside might be that you have to get close enough to the
camera to turn it after each shot.

I use the strongest Gitzo monopod I could get, and made an adapter to mount it
horizontally on my tripod (with a counterweight). Do NOT use a Manfrotto monopod
with a plastic camera plate (all of them I guess), it will flex and simply is
not strong enough.

Cheers!

Erik Leeman

<http://www.erikleeman.com>


--- In PanoToolsNG@yahoogroups.com, Michel Thoby  wrote:
>
> Thomas' shooting principle (that proposes to use a horizontal monopod) is
sound and works. At least, a variant of it did work fine for me (I think):
>
http://worldwidepanorama.org/worldwidepanorama/wwp309/html/MichelThoby-5350.html
> I have paradoxically used the huge Manfrotto 269HDBU 7.5 m long pole!
> The legs were kept folded and the mast was partially extended (about 4 or 5
meters of the bigger tubes only). The whole thing was lying sideways on the
ground. The camera was mounted on a NN 5L at the tip of the pole (as usual). The
fisheye lens NNP was thus maintained fixed in 3D space, yet kept at about 15-20
cm above the ground just high enough to allow the camera to rotate around the
horizontal pole axis: a small block of wood supported the upper part of the pole
at about one meter from the camera.
> Lot of room is needed when doing that way. Other means have to be devised and
deployed if available space is scarce. An example:
http://michel.thoby.free.fr/Scholtes/Making-of.html
>
> Michel

#56081 From: Jan Martin <janmartin@...>
Date: Fri Jan 18, 2013 4:52 pm
Subject: Tour software for tour on DVD?
diystreetview
Send Email Send Email
 
Hi all,

there is a folder with 300 geotagged equirectangular panoramas.

What is the most easy way to generate a tour that can be saved to a DVD and works on Windows without the need to previous install any software?

Links should be generated automatically from EXIF metadata.
Tour should provide a map.

DVD needs to work without Internet access.

Thanks,
Jan

#56082 From: "Uri" <uri@...>
Date: Fri Jan 18, 2013 5:26 pm
Subject: Re: Panos down to earth...
uricogan
Send Email Send Email
 
--- In PanoToolsNG@yahoogroups.com, Gerhard Killesreiter  wrote:

> I would like to create a pano that is close to the ground. The minimal
> distance my fisheye can do is about 20cm, so about that close.
>
> The idea is to invert the middle column of the tripod and turn the
> camera on its head. I can take three images around, but then I'll have
> the legs of the tripod (and their shadow) in all of them.  I think I
> would need a 2nd set of images with the tripod rotated by 60°.
>
> Now my problem: How to I ensure that the camera is at exactly the same
> place after rotating? I would think that this matters a lot since the
> camera is close to the ground.

I would build a simple, short philopod - tie a short piece of string around the
no-parallax point of the lens and dangle some pointy weight from it. mount the
camera so that the pointy weight is very close the ground. Mark that spot. Now
you can shoot, reposition the camera around that spot at whatever angle you want
to use, repeat until done.

Another idea is to stick a central column of an old tripod and into the ground
and mount your pano head on it.

#56083 From: "Sacha Griffin" <sachagriffin@...>
Date: Fri Jan 18, 2013 5:42 pm
Subject: RE: Tour software for tour on DVD?
sachagriffin
Send Email Send Email
 

Krpano has tools to use the flash projector. No install necessary.

It’s pretty simple. Just double click the exe.

 

A less nice way is just to prepare your html files. But then you have to open a browser, deal with installed plugins, security issues, toolbars and the like.

 

I don’t understand.. this at all.

// Links should be generated automatically from EXIF metadata.

 

Best Regards,

 

Sacha Griffin

Southern Digital Solutions LLC  - Atlanta, Georgia

http://www.seeit360.com

http://twitter.com/SeeIt360

http://www.facebook.com/SeeIt360

IM: sachagriffin007@...

Office: 404-551-4275

 

 

From: PanoToolsNG@yahoogroups.com [mailto:PanoToolsNG@yahoogroups.com] On Behalf Of Jan Martin
Sent: Friday, January 18, 2013 11:53 AM
To: panotoolsng
Subject: [PanoToolsNG] Tour software for tour on DVD?

 

 

Hi all,

there is a folder with 300 geotagged equirectangular panoramas.

What is the most easy way to generate a tour that can be saved to a DVD and works on Windows without the need to previous install any software?

Links should be generated automatically from EXIF metadata.
Tour should provide a map.

DVD needs to work without Internet access.

Thanks,
Jan


#56084 From: L.D.I. Felipe B. González <felipe@...>
Date: Fri Jan 18, 2013 6:14 pm
Subject: Re: Re: Panos down to earth...
pollokiller
Send Email Send Email
 
I´ve done that height with a custom lens ring and a mini tripod: http://flic.kr/p/6pEgyB


2013/1/18 Uri <uri@...>
 



--- In PanoToolsNG@yahoogroups.com, Gerhard Killesreiter wrote:

> I would like to create a pano that is close to the ground. The minimal
> distance my fisheye can do is about 20cm, so about that close.
>
> The idea is to invert the middle column of the tripod and turn the
> camera on its head. I can take three images around, but then I'll have
> the legs of the tripod (and their shadow) in all of them. I think I
> would need a 2nd set of images with the tripod rotated by 60°.
>
> Now my problem: How to I ensure that the camera is at exactly the same
> place after rotating? I would think that this matters a lot since the
> camera is close to the ground.

I would build a simple, short philopod - tie a short piece of string around the no-parallax point of the lens and dangle some pointy weight from it. mount the camera so that the pointy weight is very close the ground. Mark that spot. Now you can shoot, reposition the camera around that spot at whatever angle you want to use, repeat until done.

Another idea is to stick a central column of an old tripod and into the ground and mount your pano head on it.




--
L.D.I. Felipe B. González C.
felipe@...
1998-5246
www.fpk.com.mx
http://recorridosvirtuales.wordpress.com/

Socio Director Recorridos Virtuales www.recorridosvirtuales.com

#56085 From: Erik Krause <erik.krause@...>
Date: Fri Jan 18, 2013 7:28 pm
Subject: Re: Panos down to earth...
ekrause2003
Send Email Send Email
 
Am 18.01.2013 01:16, schrieb Gerhard Killesreiter:
> I would like to create a pano that is close to the ground. The minimal
> distance my fisheye can do is about 20cm, so about that close.

This one was done with my standard panorama head and a modified slik
mini tripod: http://pano.erik-krause.de/beginning/spring_qt.flash

I replaced the center column of the tripod with one with a simple 3/4"
screw mount instead of the original head. Then I mounted my panorama
head <http://erik-krause.de/panohead/dscn3507_en.htm> directly on the
center column instead of the reversed ball head. The nadir shot was done
hand held. Some photoshop work was needed...

--
Erik Krause
http://www.erik-krause.de

#56086 From: "panovrx" <mediavr@...>
Date: Fri Jan 18, 2013 10:44 pm
Subject: Ancient large format fisheye lenses
panovrx
Send Email Send Email
 
If you like looking at old fisheye lenses this article is a treat:
http://www.marcocavina.com/articoli_fotografici/CZJ_Perimetar_Sphaerogon_Pleon/0\
0_pag.htm  (Google Translate does a good job) -- the pictures of the fisheye
models are in the bottom 20% of the article. Interesting they were used in low
level aerial photography and the same lens was used in the enlarger for
printing. I always tended to think of the dewarping of fisheye lens images as a
modern invention.

PeterM

#56087 From: Ian Wood <panolists@...>
Date: Sat Jan 19, 2013 10:38 am
Subject: Re: Ancient large format fisheye lenses
azurevision2003
Send Email Send Email
 
On 18 Jan 2013, at 22:44, panovrx wrote:

> Interesting they were used in low level aerial photography and the same lens
was used in the enlarger for printing. I always tended to think of the dewarping
of fisheye lens images as a modern invention.

It was a bit unusual by then, but in the early days of enlarging it was pretty
standard stuff to use the same lens for shooting and printing - partly for cost
and partly because it 'automatically' corrects some distortion. There's still a
few people who use large-format cameras as their enlarger!

Ian

#56088 From: Yazan Sboul <yazansboul@...>
Date: Sat Jan 19, 2013 7:14 pm
Subject: RE: Re: Panos down to earth...
jatse1980
Send Email Send Email
 

Not sure if a better solution has already been offered or not, but I simply attached my atome panhead to a heavy base made from a jam jar filled with plaster. The atome fits snugly and can be detached (it just fits into the hole - no screws required), the weight of the plaster keeps the camera from tipping over and allows for turning the panohead without moving camera position. The small base can fit almost anywhere, I usually use it to take shots on restaurant tables but its been in the fridge, on shelves, and on car seats. 

Y.S


> To: PanoToolsNG@yahoogroups.com
> From: erik.krause@...
> Date: Fri, 18 Jan 2013 20:28:59 +0100
> Subject: [PanoToolsNG] Re: Panos down to earth...
>
> Am 18.01.2013 01:16, schrieb Gerhard Killesreiter:
> > I would like to create a pano that is close to the ground. The minimal
> > distance my fisheye can do is about 20cm, so about that close.
>
> This one was done with my standard panorama head and a modified slik
> mini tripod: http://pano.erik-krause.de/beginning/spring_qt.flash
>
> I replaced the center column of the tripod with one with a simple 3/4"
> screw mount instead of the original head. Then I mounted my panorama
> head <http://erik-krause.de/panohead/dscn3507_en.htm> directly on the
> center column instead of the reversed ball head. The nadir shot was done
> hand held. Some photoshop work was needed...
>
> --
> Erik Krause
> http://www.erik-krause.de
>
>
> ------------------------------------
>
> --
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#56089 From: "johntunley" <john.tunley@...>
Date: Sun Jan 20, 2013 6:04 pm
Subject: How to create a high resolution image of a hammer
johntunley
Send Email Send Email
 
Hi everyone,

I want to create a series of high resolution (about 24,000 x 12,000 pixels)
images for large prints (about 2m x 1m) of hand tools, initially a hammer. The
hammer is laid flat on a white background and I am using a Sony NEX7 supported
on an RRS pano head and a Gitzo tripod. Importing the resulting TIFFs from
Photoshop into PTGui gives me an well stitched rectilinear image.

My problem is with depth of field. Using a Minolta 100mm Macro lens on an
adaptor, the camera sensor is about 1.1m above the hammer. There is not enough
depth of field at f8 to give sharp detail over the extremities of the handle and
hammer head. The lens is also covering too wide a field of view such that I am
only stitching from 4 images and achieving about half the desired resolution. 
If I were to use a lens of longer focal length to reduce the angle of view, and
then take more images to increase the resolution, the depth of field would also
reduce further.

I can reduce the aperture further, perhaps down to f22, but this will lead to
loss of sharpness due to diffraction. Maybe I need to consider a longer lens and
focus stacking? Any other ideas? This is self-funded and I'm not looking to buy
a very high resolution camera!

Thanks in anticipation,

John T

#56090 From: Erik Krause <erik.krause@...>
Date: Sun Jan 20, 2013 9:15 pm
Subject: Re: How to create a high resolution image of a hammer
ekrause2003
Send Email Send Email
 
Am 20.01.2013 19:04, schrieb johntunley:

> There is not enough depth of field at f8 to give sharp detail over
> the extremities of the handle and hammer head.

What you need is focus stacking. There are several solutions to stack
images taken at different focus settings such that only the sharpest
parts are combined. See http://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/Focus_stacking

  > The lens is also
  > covering too wide a field of view such that I am only stitching from
  > 4 images and achieving about half the desired resolution.  If I were
  > to use a lens of longer focal length to reduce the angle of view, and
  > then take more images to increase the resolution, the depth of field
  > would also reduce further.

True. But you don't need a larger focal length, since the macro lens
should be able to go up to 1:1 scale. However, depth of field problem
increases anyway since in macro regions DoF depends largely on the
magnification scale and less on focal length.

If you do focus stacking, use a macro slide, not the focus ring of the
lens. This way the background magnification stays the same, which
simplifies the stacking process.

Good luck!

--
Erik Krause
http://www.erik-krause.de

#56091 From: SKAL <sir_kalot@...>
Date: Mon Jan 21, 2013 8:20 am
Subject: How to level the pole
sir_kalot
Send Email Send Email
 
Hi all,

      First of all thank you all for all the good sugestion I read every
day on this group :)

      After some time of lurking, I've decided to ask you my first question.

      Some of you use long poles/monopod to take the pictures from a high
point of view. (e.g. http://www.indiavrtours.com/pic/Ktek_camel.jpg)
      How you know you are shooting the right thing? how you know that
you shoot all the panorama without missing something? and how you are
"sure" that the camera is horizontal (I think you cannot)?

      thank to all

SKAL

#56092 From: Willy Kaemena <panokaemena@...>
Date: Mon Jan 21, 2013 8:58 am
Subject: Re: How to level the pole
panokaemena
Send Email Send Email
 
To be sure that you have covered the 360, shoot some more than the required
minimum e.g. 4 shots around.
The pole has not to be vertical or the cam horizontal.. But you have simply to
maintain the axis of rotation at any angle. Alignment will be done in your
stitching program like ptgui.

Sent from my iPad

Willy Kaemena

On 21.01.2013, at 09:20, SKAL <sir_kalot@...> wrote:

> Hi all,
>
>     First of all thank you all for all the good sugestion I read every
> day on this group :)
>
>     After some time of lurking, I've decided to ask you my first question.
>
>     Some of you use long poles/monopod to take the pictures from a high
> point of view. (e.g. http://www.indiavrtours.com/pic/Ktek_camel.jpg)
>     How you know you are shooting the right thing? how you know that
> you shoot all the panorama without missing something? and how you are
> "sure" that the camera is horizontal (I think you cannot)?
>
>     thank to all
>
> SKAL
>
>
> ------------------------------------
>
> --
>
>
>

#56093 From: percept-studio <contact@...>
Date: Mon Jan 21, 2013 8:59 am
Subject: Try to compile hugin on mac lion mountain
davjo_percept
Send Email Send Email
 

After typing cmake ../hugin-2012.0.0 on my Terminal, I get : 

[...]

-- WARNING: you are using the obsolete 'PKGCONFIG' macro, use FindPkgConfig

[...]

-- libpano13 version: 2.9.18 major 2 minor 9 patch 18

[...]

-- ZThread library not found. falling back to included copy

-- flann library not found. falling back to included copy

-- Found Lensfun: /opt/local/include

*** Will install application bundles in /usr/local/Applications, set INSTALL_OSX_BUNDLE_DIR to change the location

-- Using shared internal libraries

-- Python libs version: 2.7.2

-- Install Python libs into /Library/Python/2.7/site-packages

-- Current source dir = /Users/[username]/hugin

-- Configuring done

-- Generating done

-- Build files have been written to: /Users/[username]/hugin-2012.0.0


I don't know how to set INSTALL_OSX_BUNDLE_DIR, how to install flann-1.8.3 and how to install Python libs into /Library/Python/2.7/site-packages (what package with easy_install ?). When I compile ZThread-2.3.2, after the make command, I get :


[…]

make[3]: *** [AtomicCount.lo] Error 1

make[2]: *** [all-recursive] Error 1

make[1]: *** [all] Error 2

make: *** [all-recursive] Error 1


After the make command, in hugin-2012.0.0, I get an error concerning hugin-2012.0.0/src/foreign/zthread/include/zthread/Guard.h. I solved the problem by defining the function createScope as a static bool instead of a static void function. Nonetheless I still have errors after the make command and I actually get :

[…]


make[2]: *** [src/tools/CMakeFiles/hugin_hdrmerge.dir/hugin_hdrmerge.cpp.o] Error 1

make[1]: *** [src/tools/CMakeFiles/hugin_hdrmerge.dir/all] Error 2

make: *** [all] Error 2


Thanks a lot for your help.



#56094 From: "giant_klobasa_monster" <panoramas@...>
Date: Mon Jan 21, 2013 10:58 am
Subject: Re: How to create a high resolution image of a hammer
giant_klobas...
Send Email Send Email
 
You might want to read about what Dani did - same as what you're trying but with
faces :)

He got himself a $15,000 robot to move the camera around.

He also built himself a telecentric lens.


http://www.kolor.com/forum/t11720-creating-an-xml-file-for-import-with-autopano

--- In PanoToolsNG@yahoogroups.com, "johntunley"  wrote:
>
> Hi everyone,
>
> I want to create a series of high resolution (about 24,000 x 12,000 pixels)
images for large prints (about 2m x 1m) of hand tools, initially a hammer. The
hammer is laid flat on a white background and I am using a Sony NEX7 supported
on an RRS pano head and a Gitzo tripod. Importing the resulting TIFFs from
Photoshop into PTGui gives me an well stitched rectilinear image.
>
> My problem is with depth of field. Using a Minolta 100mm Macro lens on an
adaptor, the camera sensor is about 1.1m above the hammer. There is not enough
depth of field at f8 to give sharp detail over the extremities of the handle and
hammer head. The lens is also covering too wide a field of view such that I am
only stitching from 4 images and achieving about half the desired resolution. 
If I were to use a lens of longer focal length to reduce the angle of view, and
then take more images to increase the resolution, the depth of field would also
reduce further.
>
> I can reduce the aperture further, perhaps down to f22, but this will lead to
loss of sharpness due to diffraction. Maybe I need to consider a longer lens and
focus stacking? Any other ideas? This is self-funded and I'm not looking to buy
a very high resolution camera!
>
> Thanks in anticipation,
>
> John T
>

#56095 From: "giant_klobasa_monster" <panoramas@...>
Date: Mon Jan 21, 2013 10:59 am
Subject: Re: a couple of panos I made some time ago
giant_klobas...
Send Email Send Email
 
uh, the tokyo pano *is* level. the LA one isn't.




--- In PanoToolsNG@yahoogroups.com, Roger D Williams  wrote:
>
> The panorama, not Tokyo.
>
> Roger W
>
> Sent from my iPad
>
> On Jan 18, 2013, at 11:06 AM, Roger D Williams  wrote:
>
> >
> >
> > That's a splendid panorama, and exceptionally so considering the conditions
under which you took it. You caught Tokyo under one of our more interesting
skies. It's probably worth leveling it...
> >
> > Roger W
> >
> > Sent from my iPad
> >
> > On Jan 18, 2013, at 9:41 AM, Jeffrey Martin  wrote:
> >
> >>
> >>
> >>
www.360cities.net/image/flying-over-tokyo-in-a-golden-sunset#349.80,-10.50,63.8
> >> this was shot through the windows of a skyscraper. I shot about 80 images
and ended up using only 4 :) no bracketing here
> >>
> >>
> >> www.360cities.net/image/los-angeles oops it's not level! silly me.
> >>
> >>
> >>
> >
> >
> >
>

#56096 From: Harry van der Wolf <hvdwolf@...>
Date: Mon Jan 21, 2013 11:29 am
Subject: Re: Try to compile hugin on mac lion mountain
hvdwolf
Send Email Send Email
 
Hi,
 
 
2013/1/21 percept-studio <contact@...>
 

After typing cmake ../hugin-2012.0.0 on my Terminal, I get : 

[...]

-- WARNING: you are using the obsolete 'PKGCONFIG' macro, use FindPkgConfig

[...]

-- libpano13 version: 2.9.18 major 2 minor 9 patch 18

[...]

-- ZThread library not found. falling back to included copy

-- flann library not found. falling back to included copy

-- Found Lensfun: /opt/local/include

*** Will install application bundles in /usr/local/Applications, set INSTALL_OSX_BUNDLE_DIR to change the location

-- Using shared internal libraries

-- Python libs version: 2.7.2

-- Install Python libs into /Library/Python/2.7/site-packages

-- Current source dir = /Users/[username]/hugin

-- Configuring done

-- Generating done

-- Build files have been written to: /Users/[username]/hugin-2012.0.0

 
 
W.r.t. the "errors":
- If cmake finds python 2.7.2 in /Library/Python/2.7, it means that you don't have to install anything. Python 2.7 is avaliable on your system and 2.7.2 is sufficient. This is however the OS X system version. Try a "port installed | grep -i python" to see which version MacPorts has installed (if it did and I think it did).
- zthread is not needed. Hugin comes with it's own (slightly outdated but fully functional) included zthread. That's also what the cmake message mentions: "ZThread library not found. falling back to included copy"
- an external flann isn't neccessary either. Same as for zthread: "flann library not found. falling back to included copy".
- Don't worry about the "Will install application bundles in /usr/local/Applications, set INSTALL_OSX_BUNDLE_DIR to change the location". If you do want to change it it use something like:  cmake -DINSTALL_OSX_BUNDLE_DIR="/Users/[username]" or any folder you like.
 
I have been very long on OS X, but I'm now back on Linux. My (old) macbook is still on Snow Leopard.
Currently for me on Snow Leopard the cmake build on OS X is broken, not because of hugin but due to a conflict between boost and Mac OS X. boost >= 1.47 uses a set of macros which are equal (in name) to macros OS X is using. As long as this is the situation you can never build Hugin via cmake. Currently the boost level is 1.51 (I think) in MacPorts (which you also obviously use) and you can't use a lower version.
The OS X macro set has been deprecated since 10.4 but is still around, at least on my 10.6.8 and I can't find anything else on the web for newer OS X versions.
Please try for your Mountain Lion version. Maybe you are lucky.
 
Building with python functionality leads to another level of struggles on OS X, so my suggestion is to start building without the python functionality (cmake .. -DHSI=OFF), and if you are succesful and make it to the end, you can try the same with python enabled. As mentioned above: the python versions of OS X and the MacPorts version might (read: will) clash.
 
This weekend I just learned how to specify the python setup, as I got similar issues on Linux with mixed python versions. I did not try these yet on OS X because of lack of time (and motivation).
 
So try to use:
-DPYTHON_INCLUDE_DIR="path/to/python/include/dir"  -DPYTHON_LIBRARY="/path/to/library/or/to/framework" -DPYTHON_EXECUTABLE="/path/to/binary"
The include dir points to a directory. The library parameter points to the library or framework and the executable parameter to the binary.
 
Harry

#56097 From: "Richard" <rcgvt@...>
Date: Mon Jan 21, 2013 5:21 pm
Subject: Android App
rcg_53
Send Email Send Email
 
Anyone use, PhotolRemote app on their android phone to shoot HDR's.
I have a Sony A55 and am looking for a HRD trigger.
Richard

https://play.google.com/store/apps/details?id=com.wegroo.ircamshooter#?t=W251bGw\
sMSwyLDIxMiwiY29tLndlZ3Jvby5pcmNhbXNob290ZXIiXQ..

#56098 From: Isaac Garcia <coletassoft@...>
Date: Mon Jan 21, 2013 9:05 pm
Subject: Re: Android App
coletas_soft
Send Email Send Email
 

Well, they claim android from 2.1 but the Play Store says that it's not compatible with my 4.1.2 :/

On Jan 21, 2013 6:22 PM, "Richard" <rcgvt@...> wrote:
Anyone use, PhotolRemote app on their android phone to shoot HDR's.
I have a Sony A55 and am looking for a HRD trigger.
Richard

https://play.google.com/store/apps/details?id=com.wegroo.ircamshooter#?t=W251bGwsMSwyLDIxMiwiY29tLndlZ3Jvby5pcmNhbXNob290ZXIiXQ..



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