Is it this, the correct link you meant?
http://photo.sankei.jp.msn.com/panorama/

--- In PanoToolsNG@yahoogroups.com, Roger D Williams  wrote:
>
> Visit http://sankei.jp.msn.com/images/sankei/panorama/2012/1210doitsu001/
>
> to see some professional panoramas of Japan. The Sankei started hosting
panoramas after the Great East Japan Earthquake and Tsunami, and frankly these
were so heart-rending to me as a long-term resident and lover of Japan that I
couldn't bear to look at them. Now the site has moved on to more mundane
things... There are some excellent pole panoramas of the Japanese Olympic
medalists as their cavalcade wended its way through a crowded Ginza. You'll also
see monkeys enjoying the warmth of hot springs amid the winter snows... I
believe these are the world's northernmost packs of monkeys. The site is well
worth a visit. All in Japanese, of course--you'll have rely on Bing or Google
translation to find your way around if you don't read Japanese.
>
> The site is Flash based but iDevice-friendly links are provided if you click
on the thumbnail and then on the special link under the blank image space.
>
> Roger W
>
> Sent from my iPad
>

i think it's not off topic at all :-)

needed to think about the same subject some time ago for a project
planning and made some tests.

inverting the center column and taking two panos with 60 deg rotation
offset in itself isn't a bad idea, but practically not achievable with a
sufficient precision, especially when the floor isn't a flat surface.

best what i found out is a tripod and a horizontal or downwards tilted
monopod mounted on it. so the tripod is farer away and easier to
retouch, depending on the background behind the tripod. capturing one
panorama is enough.

some tipps/remarks:
- if you shoot outdoor be sure to have a 90 deg alignment of the monopod
related to the sun and the shadows.
- with a fisheye this method needs 4 shots and the down shot covers the
nadir in the important image area with best quality.
- the longer the monopod, the better.
- dependent on the length you may need a counterweight (which is hardly
visible in the panorama because it's behind the tripod).

maybe this helps a little bit ;-)

best
thomas

Am 18.01.13 01:16, schrieb Gerhard Killesreiter:
> -----BEGIN PGP SIGNED MESSAGE-----
> Hash: SHA1
>
> Hi there,
>
> I hope I a not off topic.
>
> I would like to create a pano that is close to the ground. The minimal
> distance my fisheye can do is about 20cm, so about that close.
>
> The idea is to invert the middle column of the tripod and turn the
> camera on its head. I can take three images around, but then I'll have
> the legs of the tripod (and their shadow) in all of them. I think I
> would need a 2nd set of images with the tripod rotated by 60°.
>
> Now my problem: How to I ensure that the camera is at exactly the same
> place after rotating? I would think that this matters a lot since the
> camera is close to the ground.
>
> Cheers,
> Gerhard
> -----BEGIN PGP SIGNATURE-----
> Version: GnuPG v1.4.11 (GNU/Linux)
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Hash: SHA1

Am 18.01.2013 12:12, schrieb Michel Thoby:

> Thomas' shooting principle (that proposes to use a horizontal
> monopod) is sound and works.

Thank you, Thomas!

> At least, a variant of it did work fine for me (I think):
>
http://worldwidepanorama.org/worldwidepanorama/wwp309/html/MichelThoby-5350.html
>
>
I have paradoxically used the huge Manfrotto 269HDBU 7.5 m long pole!

I was looking for something more portable. 8)

I have one of the shorter Manfrotto monopods, I'll see if that works
and how big the tripod will appear in the image.

> The legs were kept folded and the mast was partially extended
> (about 4 or 5 meters of the bigger tubes only). The whole thing was
> lying sideways on the ground. The camera was mounted on a NN 5L at
> the tip of the pole (as usual). The fisheye lens NNP was thus
> maintained fixed in 3D space, yet kept at about 15-20 cm above the
> ground just high enough to allow the camera to rotate around the
> horizontal pole axis: a small block of wood supported the upper
> part of the pole at about one meter from the camera.


how did you get rid of the block in the picture?

> Lot of room is needed when doing that way. Other means have to be
> devised and deployed if available space is scarce. An example:
> http://michel.thoby.free.fr/Scholtes/Making-of.html


Now I am hungry...

Cheers,
Gerhard
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It is an alternative, yes.

Roger W.

Sent from my iPad

On Jan 18, 2013, at 5:58 PM, "Ormar" <rmrtmm@...> wrote:

> Is it this, the correct link you meant?
> http://photo.sankei.jp.msn.com/panorama/
>
> --- In PanoToolsNG@yahoogroups.com, Roger D Williams  wrote:
>>
>> Visit http://sankei.jp.msn.com/images/sankei/panorama/2012/1210doitsu001/
>>
>> to see some professional panoramas of Japan. The Sankei started hosting
panoramas after the Great East Japan Earthquake and Tsunami, and frankly these
were so heart-rending to me as a long-term resident and lover of Japan that I
couldn't bear to look at them. Now the site has moved on to more mundane
things... There are some excellent pole panoramas of the Japanese Olympic
medalists as their cavalcade wended its way through a crowded Ginza. You'll also
see monkeys enjoying the warmth of hot springs amid the winter snows... I
believe these are the world's northernmost packs of monkeys. The site is well
worth a visit. All in Japanese, of course--you'll have rely on Bing or Google
translation to find your way around if you don't read Japanese.
>>
>> The site is Flash based but iDevice-friendly links are provided if you click
on the thumbnail and then on the special link under the blank image space.
>>
>> Roger W
>>
>> Sent from my iPad
>
>
>
>
> ------------------------------------
>
> --
>
>
>

something else came in my mind. succeeded in finding it here on the list :-)

http://tech.groups.yahoo.com/group/PanoToolsNG/message/52419

http://indiavrtours.com/pic/low_shot.jpg

maybe it's interesting for you...

keep us posted about your experiments :-)

best
thomas


Am 18.01.13 12:53, schrieb Gerhard Killesreiter:
> -----BEGIN PGP SIGNED MESSAGE-----
> Hash: SHA1
>
> Am 18.01.2013 12:12, schrieb Michel Thoby:
>
>  > Thomas' shooting principle (that proposes to use a horizontal
>  > monopod) is sound and works.
>
> Thank you, Thomas!
>
>  > At least, a variant of it did work fine for me (I think):
>  >
>
http://worldwidepanorama.org/worldwidepanorama/wwp309/html/MichelThoby-5350.html
>  >
>  >
> I have paradoxically used the huge Manfrotto 269HDBU 7.5 m long pole!
>
> I was looking for something more portable. 8)
>
> I have one of the shorter Manfrotto monopods, I'll see if that works
> and how big the tripod will appear in the image.
>
>  > The legs were kept folded and the mast was partially extended
>  > (about 4 or 5 meters of the bigger tubes only). The whole thing was
>  > lying sideways on the ground. The camera was mounted on a NN 5L at
>  > the tip of the pole (as usual). The fisheye lens NNP was thus
>  > maintained fixed in 3D space, yet kept at about 15-20 cm above the
>  > ground just high enough to allow the camera to rotate around the
>  > horizontal pole axis: a small block of wood supported the upper
>  > part of the pole at about one meter from the camera.
>
> how did you get rid of the block in the picture?
>
>  > Lot of room is needed when doing that way. Other means have to be
>  > devised and deployed if available space is scarce. An example:
>  > http://michel.thoby.free.fr/Scholtes/Making-of.html
>
> Now I am hungry...
>
> Cheers,
> Gerhard
> -----BEGIN PGP SIGNATURE-----
> Version: GnuPG v1.4.11 (GNU/Linux)
>
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> =fxK+
> -----END PGP SIGNATURE-----
>
>

I can't remember if it was Yuval Levy or Andras Frenyo who had a weighted
disc that they put beneath their camera with a short bolt to attach to the
camera, but I do remember seeing it several years ago in NYC. That got them
just a few inches off the ground, or tabletop if that is the location you
are looking for. There was just the nadir to patch then, and that could be
shot handheld.

Mark

-----Original Message-----
From: PanoToolsNG@yahoogroups.com [mailto:PanoToolsNG@yahoogroups.com] On
Behalf Of Gerhard Killesreiter
Sent: Thursday, January 17, 2013 7:17 PM
To: PanoToolsNG@yahoogroups.com
Subject: [PanoToolsNG] Panos down to earth...

-----BEGIN PGP SIGNED MESSAGE-----
Hash: SHA1

Hi there,

I hope I a not off topic.

I would like to create a pano that is close to the ground. The minimal
distance my fisheye can do is about 20cm, so about that close.

The idea is to invert the middle column of the tripod and turn the
camera on its head. I can take three images around, but then I'll have
the legs of the tripod (and their shadow) in all of them.  I think I
would need a 2nd set of images with the tripod rotated by 60°.

Now my problem: How to I ensure that the camera is at exactly the same
place after rotating? I would think that this matters a lot since the
camera is close to the ground.

Cheers,
Gerhard
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------------------------------------

--

The business end of that horizontal pole could also look something like this:

<http://www.flickr.com/photos/erik-nl/6059502647/in/photostream>

This way you get your zenith and nadir where they usually are, something I
prefer in most cases. Downside might be that you have to get close enough to the
camera to turn it after each shot.

I use the strongest Gitzo monopod I could get, and made an adapter to mount it
horizontally on my tripod (with a counterweight). Do NOT use a Manfrotto monopod
with a plastic camera plate (all of them I guess), it will flex and simply is
not strong enough.

Cheers!

Erik Leeman

<http://www.erikleeman.com>


--- In PanoToolsNG@yahoogroups.com, Michel Thoby  wrote:
>
> Thomas' shooting principle (that proposes to use a horizontal monopod) is
sound and works. At least, a variant of it did work fine for me (I think):
>
http://worldwidepanorama.org/worldwidepanorama/wwp309/html/MichelThoby-5350.html
> I have paradoxically used the huge Manfrotto 269HDBU 7.5 m long pole!
> The legs were kept folded and the mast was partially extended (about 4 or 5
meters of the bigger tubes only). The whole thing was lying sideways on the
ground. The camera was mounted on a NN 5L at the tip of the pole (as usual). The
fisheye lens NNP was thus maintained fixed in 3D space, yet kept at about 15-20
cm above the ground just high enough to allow the camera to rotate around the
horizontal pole axis: a small block of wood supported the upper part of the pole
at about one meter from the camera.
> Lot of room is needed when doing that way. Other means have to be devised and
deployed if available space is scarce. An example:
http://michel.thoby.free.fr/Scholtes/Making-of.html
>
> Michel

--- In PanoToolsNG@yahoogroups.com, Gerhard Killesreiter  wrote:

> I would like to create a pano that is close to the ground. The minimal
> distance my fisheye can do is about 20cm, so about that close.
>
> The idea is to invert the middle column of the tripod and turn the
> camera on its head. I can take three images around, but then I'll have
> the legs of the tripod (and their shadow) in all of them.  I think I
> would need a 2nd set of images with the tripod rotated by 60°.
>
> Now my problem: How to I ensure that the camera is at exactly the same
> place after rotating? I would think that this matters a lot since the
> camera is close to the ground.

I would build a simple, short philopod - tie a short piece of string around the
no-parallax point of the lens and dangle some pointy weight from it. mount the
camera so that the pointy weight is very close the ground. Mark that spot. Now
you can shoot, reposition the camera around that spot at whatever angle you want
to use, repeat until done.

Another idea is to stick a central column of an old tripod and into the ground
and mount your pano head on it.

Am 18.01.2013 01:16, schrieb Gerhard Killesreiter:
> I would like to create a pano that is close to the ground. The minimal
> distance my fisheye can do is about 20cm, so about that close.

This one was done with my standard panorama head and a modified slik
mini tripod: http://pano.erik-krause.de/beginning/spring_qt.flash

I replaced the center column of the tripod with one with a simple 3/4"
screw mount instead of the original head. Then I mounted my panorama
head <http://erik-krause.de/panohead/dscn3507_en.htm> directly on the
center column instead of the reversed ball head. The nadir shot was done
hand held. Some photoshop work was needed...

--
Erik Krause
http://www.erik-krause.de

If you like looking at old fisheye lenses this article is a treat:
http://www.marcocavina.com/articoli_fotografici/CZJ_Perimetar_Sphaerogon_Pleon/0\
0_pag.htm  (Google Translate does a good job) -- the pictures of the fisheye
models are in the bottom 20% of the article. Interesting they were used in low
level aerial photography and the same lens was used in the enlarger for
printing. I always tended to think of the dewarping of fisheye lens images as a
modern invention.

PeterM

On 18 Jan 2013, at 22:44, panovrx wrote:

> Interesting they were used in low level aerial photography and the same lens
was used in the enlarger for printing. I always tended to think of the dewarping
of fisheye lens images as a modern invention.

It was a bit unusual by then, but in the early days of enlarging it was pretty
standard stuff to use the same lens for shooting and printing - partly for cost
and partly because it 'automatically' corrects some distortion. There's still a
few people who use large-format cameras as their enlarger!

Ian

Hi everyone,

I want to create a series of high resolution (about 24,000 x 12,000 pixels)
images for large prints (about 2m x 1m) of hand tools, initially a hammer. The
hammer is laid flat on a white background and I am using a Sony NEX7 supported
on an RRS pano head and a Gitzo tripod. Importing the resulting TIFFs from
Photoshop into PTGui gives me an well stitched rectilinear image.

My problem is with depth of field. Using a Minolta 100mm Macro lens on an
adaptor, the camera sensor is about 1.1m above the hammer. There is not enough
depth of field at f8 to give sharp detail over the extremities of the handle and
hammer head. The lens is also covering too wide a field of view such that I am
only stitching from 4 images and achieving about half the desired resolution. 
If I were to use a lens of longer focal length to reduce the angle of view, and
then take more images to increase the resolution, the depth of field would also
reduce further.

I can reduce the aperture further, perhaps down to f22, but this will lead to
loss of sharpness due to diffraction. Maybe I need to consider a longer lens and
focus stacking? Any other ideas? This is self-funded and I'm not looking to buy
a very high resolution camera!

Thanks in anticipation,

John T

Am 20.01.2013 19:04, schrieb johntunley:

> There is not enough depth of field at f8 to give sharp detail over
> the extremities of the handle and hammer head.

What you need is focus stacking. There are several solutions to stack
images taken at different focus settings such that only the sharpest
parts are combined. See http://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/Focus_stacking

  > The lens is also
  > covering too wide a field of view such that I am only stitching from
  > 4 images and achieving about half the desired resolution.  If I were
  > to use a lens of longer focal length to reduce the angle of view, and
  > then take more images to increase the resolution, the depth of field
  > would also reduce further.

True. But you don't need a larger focal length, since the macro lens
should be able to go up to 1:1 scale. However, depth of field problem
increases anyway since in macro regions DoF depends largely on the
magnification scale and less on focal length.

If you do focus stacking, use a macro slide, not the focus ring of the
lens. This way the background magnification stays the same, which
simplifies the stacking process.

Good luck!

--
Erik Krause
http://www.erik-krause.de

Hi all,

      First of all thank you all for all the good sugestion I read every
day on this group :)

      After some time of lurking, I've decided to ask you my first question.

      Some of you use long poles/monopod to take the pictures from a high
point of view. (e.g. http://www.indiavrtours.com/pic/Ktek_camel.jpg)
      How you know you are shooting the right thing? how you know that
you shoot all the panorama without missing something? and how you are
"sure" that the camera is horizontal (I think you cannot)?

      thank to all

SKAL

To be sure that you have covered the 360, shoot some more than the required
minimum e.g. 4 shots around.
The pole has not to be vertical or the cam horizontal.. But you have simply to
maintain the axis of rotation at any angle. Alignment will be done in your
stitching program like ptgui.

Sent from my iPad

Willy Kaemena

On 21.01.2013, at 09:20, SKAL <sir_kalot@...> wrote:

> Hi all,
>
>     First of all thank you all for all the good sugestion I read every
> day on this group :)
>
>     After some time of lurking, I've decided to ask you my first question.
>
>     Some of you use long poles/monopod to take the pictures from a high
> point of view. (e.g. http://www.indiavrtours.com/pic/Ktek_camel.jpg)
>     How you know you are shooting the right thing? how you know that
> you shoot all the panorama without missing something? and how you are
> "sure" that the camera is horizontal (I think you cannot)?
>
>     thank to all
>
> SKAL
>
>
> ------------------------------------
>
> --
>
>
>

After typing cmake ../hugin-2012.0.0 on my Terminal, I get : 

[...]

-- WARNING: you are using the obsolete 'PKGCONFIG' macro, use FindPkgConfig

[...]

-- libpano13 version: 2.9.18 major 2 minor 9 patch 18

[...]

-- ZThread library not found. falling back to included copy

-- flann library not found. falling back to included copy

-- Found Lensfun: /opt/local/include

*** Will install application bundles in /usr/local/Applications, set INSTALL_OSX_BUNDLE_DIR to change the location

-- Using shared internal libraries

-- Python libs version: 2.7.2

-- Install Python libs into /Library/Python/2.7/site-packages

-- Current source dir = /Users/[username]/hugin

-- Configuring done

-- Generating done

-- Build files have been written to: /Users/[username]/hugin-2012.0.0

I don't know how to set INSTALL_OSX_BUNDLE_DIR, how to install flann-1.8.3 and how to install Python libs into /Library/Python/2.7/site-packages (what package with easy_install ?). When I compile ZThread-2.3.2, after the make command, I get :

[…]

make[3]: *** [AtomicCount.lo] Error 1

make[2]: *** [all-recursive] Error 1

make[1]: *** [all] Error 2

make: *** [all-recursive] Error 1

After the make command, in hugin-2012.0.0, I get an error concerning hugin-2012.0.0/src/foreign/zthread/include/zthread/Guard.h. I solved the problem by defining the function createScope as a static bool instead of a static void function. Nonetheless I still have errors after the make command and I actually get :

[…]

make[2]: *** [src/tools/CMakeFiles/hugin_hdrmerge.dir/hugin_hdrmerge.cpp.o] Error 1

make[1]: *** [src/tools/CMakeFiles/hugin_hdrmerge.dir/all] Error 2

make: *** [all] Error 2

Thanks a lot for your help.

You might want to read about what Dani did - same as what you're trying but with
faces :)

He got himself a $15,000 robot to move the camera around.

He also built himself a telecentric lens.


http://www.kolor.com/forum/t11720-creating-an-xml-file-for-import-with-autopano

--- In PanoToolsNG@yahoogroups.com, "johntunley"  wrote:
>
> Hi everyone,
>
> I want to create a series of high resolution (about 24,000 x 12,000 pixels)
images for large prints (about 2m x 1m) of hand tools, initially a hammer. The
hammer is laid flat on a white background and I am using a Sony NEX7 supported
on an RRS pano head and a Gitzo tripod. Importing the resulting TIFFs from
Photoshop into PTGui gives me an well stitched rectilinear image.
>
> My problem is with depth of field. Using a Minolta 100mm Macro lens on an
adaptor, the camera sensor is about 1.1m above the hammer. There is not enough
depth of field at f8 to give sharp detail over the extremities of the handle and
hammer head. The lens is also covering too wide a field of view such that I am
only stitching from 4 images and achieving about half the desired resolution. 
If I were to use a lens of longer focal length to reduce the angle of view, and
then take more images to increase the resolution, the depth of field would also
reduce further.
>
> I can reduce the aperture further, perhaps down to f22, but this will lead to
loss of sharpness due to diffraction. Maybe I need to consider a longer lens and
focus stacking? Any other ideas? This is self-funded and I'm not looking to buy
a very high resolution camera!
>
> Thanks in anticipation,
>
> John T
>

uh, the tokyo pano *is* level. the LA one isn't.




--- In PanoToolsNG@yahoogroups.com, Roger D Williams  wrote:
>
> The panorama, not Tokyo.
>
> Roger W
>
> Sent from my iPad
>
> On Jan 18, 2013, at 11:06 AM, Roger D Williams  wrote:
>
> >
> >
> > That's a splendid panorama, and exceptionally so considering the conditions
under which you took it. You caught Tokyo under one of our more interesting
skies. It's probably worth leveling it...
> >
> > Roger W
> >
> > Sent from my iPad
> >
> > On Jan 18, 2013, at 9:41 AM, Jeffrey Martin  wrote:
> >
> >>
> >>
> >>
www.360cities.net/image/flying-over-tokyo-in-a-golden-sunset#349.80,-10.50,63.8
> >> this was shot through the windows of a skyscraper. I shot about 80 images
and ended up using only 4 :) no bracketing here
> >>
> >>
> >> www.360cities.net/image/los-angeles oops it's not level! silly me.
> >>
> >>
> >>
> >
> >
> >
>

Anyone use, PhotolRemote app on their android phone to shoot HDR's.
I have a Sony A55 and am looking for a HRD trigger.
Richard

https://play.google.com/store/apps/details?id=com.wegroo.ircamshooter#?t=W251bGw\
sMSwyLDIxMiwiY29tLndlZ3Jvby5pcmNhbXNob290ZXIiXQ..

Well, they claim android from 2.1 but the Play Store says that it's not compatible with my 4.1.2 :/