johntunley wrote:
> Hi everyone,
>
> I want to create a series of high resolution (about 24,000 x 12,000 pixels)
images for large prints (about 2m x 1m) of hand tools, initially a hammer. The
hammer is laid flat on a white background and I am using a Sony NEX7 supported
on an RRS pano head and a Gitzo tripod. Importing the resulting TIFFs from
Photoshop into PTGui gives me an well stitched rectilinear image.
>
> My problem is with depth of field. Using a Minolta 100mm Macro lens on an
adaptor, the camera sensor is about 1.1m above the hammer. There is not enough
depth of field at f8 to give sharp detail over the extremities of the handle and
hammer head. The lens is also covering too wide a field of view such that I am
only stitching from 4 images and achieving about half the desired resolution. 
If I were to use a lens of longer focal length to reduce the angle of view, and
then take more images to increase the resolution, the depth of field would also
reduce further.
>
> I can reduce the aperture further, perhaps down to f22, but this will lead to
loss of sharpness due to diffraction. Maybe I need to consider a longer lens and
focus stacking? Any other ideas? This is self-funded and I'm not looking to buy
a very high resolution camera!

You will want to select your camera-object distance to control
perspective effects - extreme close ups (allowed
by wide angle lenses) can look very odd.

And - yes - you need focus stacking. But I'm not clear about the maths
of combining focus stacking (using a macro-slide) and a pano head,
since I suspect the movement of the slide will move the NP point.

I have done a hi-res non-mosaic (in Hugin terms) scan/photograph of a map
in this way (no focus stacking)

(around 12000 x 8000 pixels)

http://www.panotools.org/mailarchive/msg/61023

http://www.panotools.org/mailarchive/msg/70805


   BugBear

As the beta of Tom's Pannini perspective correction software has timed out,
and while I am waiting to hear from him, I have been trying the latest CS6
Wide-Angle Perspective filter.

I've been able to make presentable images, suitable for printing and free
  from curves that "should" be straight, of some of my equirectangular 2:1
images, with aspect ratios of 16:9 and higher (in one case 2.5:1). The
angular coverage actually reached 360 degrees in one case! I don't think
that even Pannini can achieve that...

My wife was quite impressed that something looking so "like a normal
photograph" could be printed rather than having to be viewed on a computer.

Try it, you may like it. Not all panos are equally suitable for this tool
(or maybe, as is more than likely, I haven't mastered its use yet) but
when it works it works amazingly well.

Roger W.

--

Peter,
Always a pleasure to view your 3D work.

I am glad I spend an extra dollar or two and added a pair of #D glasses to some
online purchase I made more than two years ago.

On 2013-01-21 6:21 PM, panovrx wrote:
> http://www.stereopanoramas.com/sydneyharbour2013/sydneyharbour2013.htm
> --   30cm separation
>
> and a post about it here
>
http://www.stereopanoramas.com/blog/interaxial-separation-and-setting-the-screen\
-plane-with-stereo-panoramas/
>
> this shot caused me some serious anxiety when I hadnt clamped my pole base
tripod securely and had two heavy cameras swinging wildly around 5m over my head
at the end of the sequence -- I think I will need to take a second tripod along
as a support if I get brave enough to try this sort of thing again :-)
>
> PeterM

--
Jim Watters
http://photocreations.ca

http://www.ifixit.com/Teardown/GoPro+HD+Hero3+Teardown/12457/1

a most excellent article! There are a couple of interesting differences here
from previous Gopros -- which have implications for those wanting to mod Gopro
3s -- with wider circular fisheye lenses etc

Here the M12 lens barrel mount looks different from before and maybe not so easy
to remove the lens. And now the whole camera sensor is on a special removeable
board. So maybe the only difference between the different models of Hero3s is
that sensor board. Another implication is that if you could find an extender for
that connecting cable you could make a very small remote camera head for micro
panoramas etc with very high quality.

Ragecam are offering mods of Hero3s eg.
http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=72t7XHvP5DE and they mention the need for a
special ring mod. "the hero2 and hero3 need a special ring installed on them by
us to work correctly.
the hero3 mod is very difficult and should only be preformed by
professionals. We offer the service if needed to achieve this modification
correctly."

One thing that makes the Hero3 more interesting for panoramas I think is that
they are 30% thinner than before. So you could mount two back to back (with
circular fisheye lenses)  with less parallax than before  -- so you could have a
360 video solution (if the sync could be worked out) that could be used in more
closeup situations than anything hitherto.

PeterM

You didn't specify how "deep" you want to get and what the ground is made of.
Given the right circumstances something like this can easily be achieved
http://s3.bavaria360.de.s3.amazonaws.com/mushroom/pilz.html




--- In PanoToolsNG@yahoogroups.com, Gerhard Killesreiter  wrote:
>
> -----BEGIN PGP SIGNED MESSAGE-----
> Hash: SHA1
>
> Hi there,
>
> I hope I a not off topic.
>
> I would like to create a pano that is close to the ground. The minimal
> distance my fisheye can do is about 20cm, so about that close.
>
> The idea is to invert the middle column of the tripod and turn the
> camera on its head. I can take three images around, but then I'll have
> the legs of the tripod (and their shadow) in all of them.  I think I
> would need a 2nd set of images with the tripod rotated by 60°.
>
> Now my problem: How to I ensure that the camera is at exactly the same
> place after rotating? I would think that this matters a lot since the
> camera is close to the ground.
>
> Cheers,
> Gerhard
> -----BEGIN PGP SIGNATURE-----
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>

Thanks very much for all your responses. I was a little reluctant to go in
closer to the subject as suggested by Erik because of the odd perspective that
may result, as pointed out by Bugbear. However, before purchasing yet another
lens, I decided to give it a try by reducing the sensor to subject distance to
about 0.7m. My first attempt was a disaster, the images would not join, then I
found that the tripod ball head had slipped…

My second attempt went very well with a near perfect stitch of 21 frames. The
perspective effect was apparent (looking slightly at the underside of the hammer
head, rather than square on), but I did not find it objectionable. I don't at
present have a focus slider so decided to give lens focus adjustment a try and
produced two more stitched images at different focus planes.

There was some differences in magnification between the individual images, as
mentioned by Erik. However this was compensated when I imported them into
Photoshop (CS6) as a stack and aligned that stack, resulting in 3 equi-sized
images in layers. I then blended the layer stack and was very happy with the
stitched and focus blended image which resulted, only requiring a minor bit of
tweaking. By good guess work, or more likely pure chance, the resultant image
was virtually at my target size (12k x 24k) at 11,800 x 23,600 pixels.

Thanks again for your support!

John T

--- In PanoToolsNG@yahoogroups.com, "johntunley"  wrote:
>
> Hi everyone,
>
> I want to create a series of high resolution (about 24,000 x 12,000 pixels)
images for large prints (about 2m x 1m) of hand tools, initially a hammer. The
hammer is laid flat on a white background and I am using a Sony NEX7 supported
on an RRS pano head and a Gitzo tripod. Importing the resulting TIFFs from
Photoshop into PTGui gives me an well stitched rectilinear image.
>
> My problem is with depth of field. Using a Minolta 100mm Macro lens on an
adaptor, the camera sensor is about 1.1m above the hammer. There is not enough
depth of field at f8 to give sharp detail over the extremities of the handle and
hammer head. The lens is also covering too wide a field of view such that I am
only stitching from 4 images and achieving about half the desired resolution. 
If I were to use a lens of longer focal length to reduce the angle of view, and
then take more images to increase the resolution, the depth of field would also
reduce further.
>
> I can reduce the aperture further, perhaps down to f22, but this will lead to
loss of sharpness due to diffraction. Maybe I need to consider a longer lens and
focus stacking? Any other ideas? This is self-funded and I'm not looking to buy
a very high resolution camera!
>
> Thanks in anticipation,
>
> John T
>

-----BEGIN PGP SIGNED MESSAGE-----
Hash: SHA1

Am 23.01.2013 11:06, schrieb jrgen_schrader:
> You didn't specify how "deep" you want to get and what the ground
> is made of. Given the right circumstances something like this can
> easily be achieved
> http://s3.bavaria360.de.s3.amazonaws.com/mushroom/pilz.html

Great picture!

That's about the distance I was thinking of, yes.

Is there a "making of"?

I also wish to thank the other contributors.

The device used for creating the snake pano looks very interesting. It
appears it is custom made, though.

Regarding the comments a la "if you do not mind a litte photoshop
work". I do mind, I don't have talent or patience for this. :(

So I would prefer a method where I can feed the images into Hugin and
then get a pano out.

I was also thinking about methods that involve a mirror ball, but the
balls that are available are mostly not of good optical quality and
also, the camera would be in all the images unless I don't fotograph
towards the center of the ball.

Cheers,
Gerhard

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The "trick" is to have a "panohead" that can be stuck into the earth.
As you can see from the nadir the footprint of my construction is also extremely
small.

The principle is similar to other solutions. In this case a ring mount for
camera and lens and an individual construction to mount it to the ground. Here I
used a simple metal cylinder with a thread on top. Hard ground would need a
different approach though.

Only limit is the height of the camerabody and/or lens to allow free rotation.

Cheers
Jürgen

--- In PanoToolsNG@yahoogroups.com, Gerhard Killesreiter  wrote:
>
> -----BEGIN PGP SIGNED MESSAGE-----
> Hash: SHA1
>
> Am 23.01.2013 11:06, schrieb jrgen_schrader:
> > You didn't specify how "deep" you want to get and what the ground
> > is made of. Given the right circumstances something like this can
> > easily be achieved
> > http://s3.bavaria360.de.s3.amazonaws.com/mushroom/pilz.html
>
> Great picture!
>
> That's about the distance I was thinking of, yes.
>
> Is there a "making of"?
>
> I also wish to thank the other contributors.
>
> The device used for creating the snake pano looks very interesting. It
> appears it is custom made, though.
>
> Regarding the comments a la "if you do not mind a litte photoshop
> work". I do mind, I don't have talent or patience for this. :(
>
> So I would prefer a method where I can feed the images into Hugin and
> then get a pano out.
>
> I was also thinking about methods that involve a mirror ball, but the
> balls that are available are mostly not of good optical quality and
> also, the camera would be in all the images unless I don't fotograph
> towards the center of the ball.
>
> Cheers,
> Gerhard
>
> -----BEGIN PGP SIGNATURE-----
> Version: GnuPG v1.4.11 (GNU/Linux)
>
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> =jpte
> -----END PGP SIGNATURE-----
>

I will be using pano cocoon to handle encryption for the flash based tour, but I
have been unable to find out what software I should use to encrypt the xml and
images in the html5 tour.

Can someone give me a recommendation?

Thanks-Stephani

-----BEGIN PGP SIGNED MESSAGE-----
Hash: SHA1

Am 23.01.2013 12:44, schrieb jrgen_schrader:
> The "trick" is to have a "panohead" that can be stuck into the
> earth. As you can see from the nadir the footprint of my
> construction is also extremely small.
>
> The principle is similar to other solutions. In this case a ring
> mount for camera and lens and an individual construction to mount
> it to the ground. Here I used a simple metal cylinder with a thread
> on top. Hard ground would need a different approach though.
>
> Only limit is the height of the camerabody and/or lens to allow
> free rotation.

What was the orientation of the axis of rotation in this case? I
assume vertical?



Cheers,
Gerhard

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Exactly.
Just like a standard tripod setup.
Only difference is that the tripod mount is close to ground level and the
"tripod" (in this case the metal tube) below surface level.

--- In PanoToolsNG@yahoogroups.com, Gerhard Killesreiter  wrote:
>
> -----BEGIN PGP SIGNED MESSAGE-----
> Hash: SHA1
>
> Am 23.01.2013 12:44, schrieb jrgen_schrader:
> > The "trick" is to have a "panohead" that can be stuck into the
> > earth. As you can see from the nadir the footprint of my
> > construction is also extremely small.
> >
> > The principle is similar to other solutions. In this case a ring
> > mount for camera and lens and an individual construction to mount
> > it to the ground. Here I used a simple metal cylinder with a thread
> > on top. Hard ground would need a different approach though.
> >
> > Only limit is the height of the camerabody and/or lens to allow
> > free rotation.
>
> What was the orientation of the axis of rotation in this case? I
> assume vertical?
>
>
>
> Cheers,
> Gerhard
>
> -----BEGIN PGP SIGNATURE-----
> Version: GnuPG v1.4.11 (GNU/Linux)
>
> iEYEARECAAYFAlEAM+cACgkQfg6TFvELooQAwQCeK4zs6dvcsmaKE5pV7oWJGg4w
> j0QAmwa1OwxXh1O9IP0oA/S1WKYqG6mT
> =OMBc
> -----END PGP SIGNATURE-----
>

Am 23.01.2013 11:44, schrieb johntunley:
> I don't at present have a focus slider so decided to give lens focus
> adjustment a try and produced two more stitched images at different
> focus planes..

Inspired by your question I searched a bit and found Zerene Stacker, a
program made by a (former) member of this group, Rik Littlefield. There
is a lot of information at http://zerenesystems.com/ and interestingly
he favors the focus ring method.

He is also administrator at http://www.photomacrography.net/forum/ where
you can find a real wealth of information, including how to create and
use a telecentric lens system, which allows for perspective-less focus
stacking and stitching.

--
Erik Krause
http://www.erik-krause.de

Unless I misunderstand, if you use a telecentric lens, you can more effectively
stitch images by shifting the camera left-right and up-down, rather than
rotating it around a point.

Maybe you could mount a camera (with telecentric lens) on a kind of 2d plotter
assembly, and shoot an object by pretending the camera sensor is a scanner?

Or am I mistaken? :)


--- In PanoToolsNG@yahoogroups.com, paul womack  wrote:
>
> johntunley wrote:
> > Hi everyone,
> >
> > I want to create a series of high resolution (about 24,000 x 12,000 pixels)
images for large prints (about 2m x 1m) of hand tools, initially a hammer. The
hammer is laid flat on a white background and I am using a Sony NEX7 supported
on an RRS pano head and a Gitzo tripod. Importing the resulting TIFFs from
Photoshop into PTGui gives me an well stitched rectilinear image.
> >
> > My problem is with depth of field. Using a Minolta 100mm Macro lens on an
adaptor, the camera sensor is about 1.1m above the hammer. There is not enough
depth of field at f8 to give sharp detail over the extremities of the handle and
hammer head. The lens is also covering too wide a field of view such that I am
only stitching from 4 images and achieving about half the desired resolution. 
If I were to use a lens of longer focal length to reduce the angle of view, and
then take more images to increase the resolution, the depth of field would also
reduce further.
> >
> > I can reduce the aperture further, perhaps down to f22, but this will lead
to loss of sharpness due to diffraction. Maybe I need to consider a longer lens
and focus stacking? Any other ideas? This is self-funded and I'm not looking to
buy a very high resolution camera!
>
> You will want to select your camera-object distance to control
> perspective effects - extreme close ups (allowed
> by wide angle lenses) can look very odd.
>
> And - yes - you need focus stacking. But I'm not clear about the maths
> of combining focus stacking (using a macro-slide) and a pano head,
> since I suspect the movement of the slide will move the NP point.
>
> I have done a hi-res non-mosaic (in Hugin terms) scan/photograph of a map
> in this way (no focus stacking)
>
> (around 12000 x 8000 pixels)
>
> http://www.panotools.org/mailarchive/msg/61023
>
> http://www.panotools.org/mailarchive/msg/70805
>
>
>   BugBear
>

Tried this comment failed to register so I am writing this again.

We attacted our Nodal Ninja R1 bracket and Canon camera/fisheye to a 30 x 30cm
(12x12 inch) flat board that sat on the ground.  We used adjacent ground
dirt/wood chips to cover the board.  Camera was tilted up 7.5° for the zenith
convergance.

Imaging taken June 2011.  Opposite to ground imaging would be to take elevated
pole panoramas.  Here are our "Ground" elevation pano's.

http://worldwidepanorama.org/worldwidepanorama/wwp2011/html/DaveAlbright-6892.ht\
ml

http://worldwidepanorama.org/worldwidepanorama/wwp611/html/DaveAlbright-6899.htm\
l

http://worldwidepanorama.org/worldwidepanorama/wwp2011/html/PatAlbright-6814.htm\
l


--- In PanoToolsNG@yahoogroups.com, "jrgen_schrader"  wrote:
>
> Exactly.
> Just like a standard tripod setup.
> Only difference is that the tripod mount is close to ground level and the
"tripod" (in this case the metal tube) below surface level.
>
> --- In PanoToolsNG@yahoogroups.com, Gerhard Killesreiter  wrote:
> >
> > -----BEGIN PGP SIGNED MESSAGE-----
> > Hash: SHA1
> >
> > Am 23.01.2013 12:44, schrieb jrgen_schrader:
> > > The "trick" is to have a "panohead" that can be stuck into the
> > > earth. As you can see from the nadir the footprint of my
> > > construction is also extremely small.
> > >
> > > The principle is similar to other solutions. In this case a ring
> > > mount for camera and lens and an individual construction to mount
> > > it to the ground. Here I used a simple metal cylinder with a thread
> > > on top. Hard ground would need a different approach though.
> > >
> > > Only limit is the height of the camerabody and/or lens to allow
> > > free rotation.
> >
> > What was the orientation of the axis of rotation in this case? I
> > assume vertical?
> >
> >
> >
> > Cheers,
> > Gerhard
> >
> > -----BEGIN PGP SIGNATURE-----
> > Version: GnuPG v1.4.11 (GNU/Linux)
> >
> > iEYEARECAAYFAlEAM+cACgkQfg6TFvELooQAwQCeK4zs6dvcsmaKE5pV7oWJGg4w
> > j0QAmwa1OwxXh1O9IP0oA/S1WKYqG6mT
> > =OMBc
> > -----END PGP SIGNATURE-----
> >
>

5 cameras -- for World Heritage sites
http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=l2I7kHOqD4U#!

Peter M

 

To be sure that you have covered the 360, shoot some more than the required minimum e.g. 4 shots around.
The pole has not to be vertical or the cam horizontal.. But you have simply to maintain the axis of rotation at any angle. Alignment will be done in your stitching program like ptgui.

Sent from my iPad

Willy Kaemena

 

Wifi card

Sent from my iPad

 

I will be using pano cocoon to handle encryption for the flash based tour, but I have been unable to find out what software I should use to encrypt the xml and images in the html5 tour.

Can someone give me a recommendation?

Thanks-Stephani

 

Il 21/01/2013 10:33, Andy Anderson ha scritto:

 

Wifi card

Sent from my iPad

What do you mean with that?

Thanks Erik,

I looked at Zerene Stacker too but I found that Photoshop did a good job, at
least in this instance, so I stayed with the software I had available. If time
permits, I'll compare the Photoshop results with Zerene and Helicon.

The final images will be shown in the UK at Format:

http://formatfestival.com

Thanks for the link to the telecentric lens articles which are worth a more
detailed look, unfortunately timescales prevent that just now.

Regards,

John T



--- In PanoToolsNG@yahoogroups.com, Erik Krause  wrote:
>
> Am 23.01.2013 11:44, schrieb johntunley:
> > I don't at present have a focus slider so decided to give lens focus
> > adjustment a try and produced two more stitched images at different
> > focus planes..
>
> Inspired by your question I searched a bit and found Zerene Stacker, a
> program made by a (former) member of this group, Rik Littlefield. There
> is a lot of information at http://zerenesystems.com/ and interestingly
> he favors the focus ring method.
>
> He is also administrator at http://www.photomacrography.net/forum/ where
> you can find a real wealth of information, including how to create and
> use a telecentric lens system, which allows for perspective-less focus
> stacking and stitching.
>
> --
> Erik Krause
> http://www.erik-krause.de
>

 

Google Eye-fi. ...it is a storage card that will wifi images from ur camera to a tablet or laptop

The pole does not need to be level. The camera lens needs to rotate around the
No Parallax Point.

In a crowd scene where the pictures need to be taken quickly to avoid people
moving use a motorized that rotates the camera for you. Don't give the pole time
to tilt.

When the sun is out look at the shadow of the camera cast by the sun. Stand on
the side of the pole where you can see the pole and the shadow. As you rotate
the pole make sure the camera stays in the same relative position. If you are
going to fill in the nadir after you also want the camera in the same spot. To
do the nadir I walk away several feet. Raise the  pole from the ground to my
waist and hold it out at an angle.

Instead of a shadow, can also use reflections or a third person.

Easiest is to have split level on the pole keep the pole vertical. Don't over
extend the pole.

Even a bending pole like this.
https://dl.dropbox.com/u/3915874/jimwithpole.jpg

Give me this.
http://photocreations.ca/camp/index.html?thanksgiving_2012_2#thanksgiving_2012_2

The pole and camera out over the edge becomes very heavy. The fear of the water
does not help. rotating the pole on the edge would cause it to roll and come
loose where it is tucked into the edge of two boards.


--
Jim Watters
http://photocreations.ca