These power supplies seem to fit and on eBay.com there are plenty around for
around $ 10. I have beeen using the ones with the arrows for a while now and
they work fine. I paid 7.50 Euro's (about 9 US $) for second hand ones on the
Dutch equivalent of eBay. A few old cords with plugs that I had lying around I
connected by stripping the wires and inserting them in the original plug of the
power supply. A little bit of strategically placed duct tape keeps them well in
place and gives good isolation.


0957-2178, 0957-2094, 0957-2146, 0957-2166

HP 0957-2094  <-----
HP 0950-4466  <-----
HP 0950-2146
0957-2153
0957-2178
0957-2166

HP 0950-4466
HP 0957-2094
HP 0957-2144
HP 0957-2146
HP 0957-2166
HP  0957-2177
HP 0957-2178


=======================================================



--- In RoboMower@yahoogroups.com, Ben <benj@...> wrote:
>
> I just purchased a 32v DC regulated power supply on eBay for less than $20
> with shipping. It was originally for a HP printer. The plug is completely
> different so I'll have to replace that. If you have any soldering experience
> it's pretty easy the only trick is to get the polarity correct. You would
> need a voltage meter.
>
> For a current rating you want one equal or greater than the original. The
> original was around 950ma if I remember and the HP was around 1500ma. It's
> also regulated so the voltage is much more stable than a simple transformer
> power supply.
>
> I looked everywhere for an easier OR cheaper solution and 32v power supplies
> are not easy to find.
>
> If you are looking for the outdoor power supply you'll have to stick with
> what you can get from robomower dealers from what I found. I'd highly
> recommend trying to find an indoor location for an indoor supply instead. A
> wood shed, garage, etc..
>
> -ben
>
>
> On 9/15/08, Dan <bha@...> wrote:
> >
> >   It seems I'm starting to go through power supplies (transformers) on
> > my RL1000's this year. Though some (if not all) will be covered by
> > warranty, I'm thinking the next time one goes, I'll be stuck having to
> > buy.
> >
> > That said, I saw some discussions about specs and possible alternate
> > power supplies, but couldn't find any concrete examples.
> >
> > Has anyone found a valid alternate (off the shelf) power supply
> > replacement for the RL1000 docking station models? (model #'s, urls, etc.)
> >
> > I can keep the transformer inside, so it need not be water proof.
> >
> > I'm pretty sure one of my failing transformers lead to an early demise
> > of a battery pack (due to incomplete charging...not sure, but I think so).
> >
> > Thanks!
> >
> >
> >
>
>
> [Non-text portions of this message have been removed]
>

This site has all the 32v HP power adapters for $9.99+ $8.10 shipping.
http://www.valexonline.com/ProductDetails.asp?ProductCode=1002

--- In RoboMower@yahoogroups.com, "Frans" <voorde@...> wrote:
>
> These power supplies seem to fit and on eBay.com there are plenty around for
around $ 10. I have beeen using the ones with the arrows for a while now and
they work fine. I paid 7.50 Euro's (about 9 US $) for second hand ones on the
Dutch equivalent of eBay. A few old cords with plugs that I had lying around I
connected by stripping the wires and inserting them in the original plug of the
power supply. A little bit of strategically placed duct tape keeps them well in
place and gives good isolation.
>
>
> 0957-2178, 0957-2094, 0957-2146, 0957-2166
>
> HP 0957-2094  <-----
> HP 0950-4466  <-----
> HP 0950-2146
> 0957-2153
> 0957-2178
> 0957-2166
>
> HP 0950-4466
> HP 0957-2094
> HP 0957-2144
> HP 0957-2146
> HP 0957-2166
> HP  0957-2177
> HP 0957-2178
>
>
> =======================================================
>
>
>
> --- In RoboMower@yahoogroups.com, Ben <benj@> wrote:
> >
> > I just purchased a 32v DC regulated power supply on eBay for less than $20
> > with shipping. It was originally for a HP printer. The plug is completely
> > different so I'll have to replace that. If you have any soldering experience
> > it's pretty easy the only trick is to get the polarity correct. You would
> > need a voltage meter.
> >
> > For a current rating you want one equal or greater than the original. The
> > original was around 950ma if I remember and the HP was around 1500ma. It's
> > also regulated so the voltage is much more stable than a simple transformer
> > power supply.
> >
> > I looked everywhere for an easier OR cheaper solution and 32v power supplies
> > are not easy to find.
> >
> > If you are looking for the outdoor power supply you'll have to stick with
> > what you can get from robomower dealers from what I found. I'd highly
> > recommend trying to find an indoor location for an indoor supply instead. A
> > wood shed, garage, etc..
> >
> > -ben
> >
> >
> > On 9/15/08, Dan <bha@> wrote:
> > >
> > >   It seems I'm starting to go through power supplies (transformers) on
> > > my RL1000's this year. Though some (if not all) will be covered by
> > > warranty, I'm thinking the next time one goes, I'll be stuck having to
> > > buy.
> > >
> > > That said, I saw some discussions about specs and possible alternate
> > > power supplies, but couldn't find any concrete examples.
> > >
> > > Has anyone found a valid alternate (off the shelf) power supply
> > > replacement for the RL1000 docking station models? (model #'s, urls, etc.)
> > >
> > > I can keep the transformer inside, so it need not be water proof.
> > >
> > > I'm pretty sure one of my failing transformers lead to an early demise
> > > of a battery pack (due to incomplete charging...not sure, but I think so).
> > >
> > > Thanks!
> > >
> > >
> > >
> >
> >
> > [Non-text portions of this message have been removed]
> >
>

Bought on eBay HP 0950-4491 power adapter: 32 vdc 1100mA.  $14.02 includes tax,
pickup via Houston World-Net Supply Co., 7330 Rampart St # 106, 77081.  They may
have a website... I don't remember.  They ship but for me it was quicker just to
pick it up.

I have my charger located in my garage so weather is not an issue.

Vince

--- In RoboMower@yahoogroups.com, "Frans" <voorde@...> wrote:
>
> These power supplies seem to fit and on eBay.com there are plenty around for
around $ 10. I have beeen using the ones with the arrows for a while now and
they work fine. I paid 7.50 Euro's (about 9 US $) for second hand ones on the
Dutch equivalent of eBay. A few old cords with plugs that I had lying around I
connected by stripping the wires and inserting them in the original plug of the
power supply. A little bit of strategically placed duct tape keeps them well in
place and gives good isolation.
>
>
> 0957-2178, 0957-2094, 0957-2146, 0957-2166
>
> HP 0957-2094  <-----
> HP 0950-4466  <-----
> HP 0950-2146
> 0957-2153
> 0957-2178
> 0957-2166
>
> HP 0950-4466
> HP 0957-2094
> HP 0957-2144
> HP 0957-2146
> HP 0957-2166
> HP  0957-2177
> HP 0957-2178
>

I picked up a 24v scooter battery charger on Amazon. I've only been using it
a few weeks, the grass hasn't started growing much and my batteries are all
old. I just ordered a new set of batteries.

24V 2A Scooter battery Charger with XLR connector

It seems to work fine. I like the fact that it lowers the current output to
a trickle when the battery is charged.

Has anyone else had experience using a 24v charger on the robomower with
dock?

-ben


[Non-text portions of this message have been removed]

The the power supply for the RL 1000 dock needs at least 38v dc. You need 36v dc
at the contacts.
  I don't have an RL 1000 to play with, but does the RL 1000 work as it should if
the battery is fully charged and the horns (charging contacts) taped over when
in the docking station? If the 5a charging fuse is pulled and the battery is
fully charged will the RL 1000 work as it should? If the 5a charging fuse is
pulled and the battey hooked to the after market charger does the RL 1000 work
as it should? If you have a yes to any of these their should be a work round.
  Remember their is no more important safety rule than to let someone else do it
for you, you will have someone to blame when it fails.
  --- In RoboMower@yahoogroups.com, Ben <benj@...> wrote:
>
> I picked up a 24v scooter battery charger on Amazon. I've only been using it
> a few weeks, the grass hasn't started growing much and my batteries are all
> old. I just ordered a new set of batteries.
>
> 24V 2A Scooter battery Charger with XLR connector
>
> It seems to work fine. I like the fact that it lowers the current output to
> a trickle when the battery is charged.
>
> Has anyone else had experience using a 24v charger on the robomower with
> dock?
>
> -ben
>
>
> [Non-text portions of this message have been removed]
>

On the Battery Box there is a white male Nylon connector which can be used to
charge the batteries instead of the plastic box with gliders that connect to the
big metal contacts. Where can you buy the female counterpart of this connector
and what is its official name?

"The the power supply for the RL 1000 dock needs at least 38v dc"

Unfortunately I do not have a 36v power supply to compare. What is the
reason it requires 36 or 38 volts? With the 24v battery charger it it
charging the pack to 26.5v, 13.25/battery. Everything else regarding the
dock and signal wire works fine.



On Tue, May 4, 2010 at 10:54 AM, bkelley9401
<neverheardofhim@...>wrote:

>
>
>
>
> The the power supply for the RL 1000 dock needs at least 38v dc. You need
> 36v dc at the contacts.
> I don't have an RL 1000 to play with, but does the RL 1000 work as it
> should if the battery is fully charged and the horns (charging contacts)
> taped over when in the docking station? If the 5a charging fuse is pulled
> and the battery is fully charged will the RL 1000 work as it should? If the
> 5a charging fuse is pulled and the battey hooked to the after market charger
> does the RL 1000 work as it should? If you have a yes to any of these their
> should be a work round.
> Remember their is no more important safety rule than to let someone else do
> it for you, you will have someone to blame when it fails.
>
> --- In RoboMower@yahoogroups.com <RoboMower%40yahoogroups.com>, Ben <benj@...>
> wrote:
> >
> > I picked up a 24v scooter battery charger on Amazon. I've only been using
> it
> > a few weeks, the grass hasn't started growing much and my batteries are
> all
> > old. I just ordered a new set of batteries.
> >
> > 24V 2A Scooter battery Charger with XLR connector
> >
> > It seems to work fine. I like the fact that it lowers the current output
> to
> > a trickle when the battery is charged.
> >
> > Has anyone else had experience using a 24v charger on the robomower with
> > dock?
> >
> > -ben
> >
> >
> > [Non-text portions of this message have been removed]
> >
>
>
>


[Non-text portions of this message have been removed]

I doubt it requires 38v.  The supply may provide 38v, but I doubt it's
needed.  A charger will need some headroom, but the highest an SLA batt
should be is about 14.4v, or 28.8v total (and that's for a fast
charge).  A charger MIGHT need 2 or 3 volts of headroom.  In many cases
though it can be much less.

Your standard "wall wart" unregulated transformer is rated for a certain
voltage AT a certain load.  But open-circuit or lightly loaded, the
voltage is much higher.  It drops significantly by the time it gets to
full load.  So where did this number come from?  The unloaded voltage?

Danny

Ben wrote:
> "The the power supply for the RL 1000 dock needs at least 38v dc"
>
> Unfortunately I do not have a 36v power supply to compare. What is the
> reason it requires 36 or 38 volts? With the 24v battery charger it it
> charging the pack to 26.5v, 13.25/battery. Everything else regarding the
> dock and signal wire works fine.
>
>
>
> On Tue, May 4, 2010 at 10:54 AM, bkelley9401
> <neverheardofhim@...>wrote:
>
>
>>
>>
>> The the power supply for the RL 1000 dock needs at least 38v dc. You need
>> 36v dc at the contacts.
>> I don't have an RL 1000 to play with, but does the RL 1000 work as it
>> should if the battery is fully charged and the horns (charging contacts)
>> taped over when in the docking station? If the 5a charging fuse is pulled
>> and the battery is fully charged will the RL 1000 work as it should? If the
>> 5a charging fuse is pulled and the battey hooked to the after market charger
>> does the RL 1000 work as it should? If you have a yes to any of these their
>> should be a work round.
>> Remember their is no more important safety rule than to let someone else do
>> it for you, you will have someone to blame when it fails.
>>
>> --- In RoboMower@yahoogroups.com <RoboMower%40yahoogroups.com>, Ben
<benj@...>
>> wrote:
>>
>>> I picked up a 24v scooter battery charger on Amazon. I've only been using
>>>
>> it
>>
>>> a few weeks, the grass hasn't started growing much and my batteries are
>>>
>> all
>>
>>> old. I just ordered a new set of batteries.
>>>
>>> 24V 2A Scooter battery Charger with XLR connector
>>>
>>> It seems to work fine. I like the fact that it lowers the current output
>>>
>> to
>>
>>> a trickle when the battery is charged.
>>>
>>> Has anyone else had experience using a 24v charger on the robomower with
>>> dock?
>>>
>>> -ben
>>>
>>>
>>> [Non-text portions of this message have been removed]
>>>
>>>
>>
>>
>>
>
>
> [Non-text portions of this message have been removed]
>
>
>
> ------------------------------------
>
> Yahoo! Groups Links
>
>
>
>
>



[Non-text portions of this message have been removed]

Just stating what I saw printed. I doubt I miss read it.

--- In RoboMower@yahoogroups.com, Danny Miller <dannym@...> wrote:
>
> I doubt it requires 38v.  The supply may provide 38v, but I doubt it's
> needed.  A charger will need some headroom, but the highest an SLA batt
> should be is about 14.4v, or 28.8v total (and that's for a fast
> charge).  A charger MIGHT need 2 or 3 volts of headroom.  In many cases
> though it can be much less.
>
> Your standard "wall wart" unregulated transformer is rated for a certain
> voltage AT a certain load.  But open-circuit or lightly loaded, the
> voltage is much higher.  It drops significantly by the time it gets to
> full load.  So where did this number come from?  The unloaded voltage?
>
> Danny
>
> Ben wrote:
> > "The the power supply for the RL 1000 dock needs at least 38v dc"
> >
> > Unfortunately I do not have a 36v power supply to compare. What is the
> > reason it requires 36 or 38 volts? With the 24v battery charger it it
> > charging the pack to 26.5v, 13.25/battery. Everything else regarding the
> > dock and signal wire works fine.
> >
> >
> >
> > On Tue, May 4, 2010 at 10:54 AM, bkelley9401
> > <neverheardofhim@...>wrote:
> >
> >
> >>
> >>
> >> The the power supply for the RL 1000 dock needs at least 38v dc. You need
> >> 36v dc at the contacts.
> >> I don't have an RL 1000 to play with, but does the RL 1000 work as it
> >> should if the battery is fully charged and the horns (charging contacts)
> >> taped over when in the docking station? If the 5a charging fuse is pulled
> >> and the battery is fully charged will the RL 1000 work as it should? If the
> >> 5a charging fuse is pulled and the battey hooked to the after market
charger
> >> does the RL 1000 work as it should? If you have a yes to any of these their
> >> should be a work round.
> >> Remember their is no more important safety rule than to let someone else do
> >> it for you, you will have someone to blame when it fails.
> >>
> >> --- In RoboMower@yahoogroups.com <RoboMower%40yahoogroups.com>, Ben <benj@>
> >> wrote:
> >>
> >>> I picked up a 24v scooter battery charger on Amazon. I've only been using
> >>>
> >> it
> >>
> >>> a few weeks, the grass hasn't started growing much and my batteries are
> >>>
> >> all
> >>
> >>> old. I just ordered a new set of batteries.
> >>>
> >>> 24V 2A Scooter battery Charger with XLR connector
> >>>
> >>> It seems to work fine. I like the fact that it lowers the current output
> >>>
> >> to
> >>
> >>> a trickle when the battery is charged.
> >>>
> >>> Has anyone else had experience using a 24v charger on the robomower with
> >>> dock?
> >>>
> >>> -ben
> >>>
> >>>
> >>> [Non-text portions of this message have been removed]
> >>>
> >>>
> >>
> >>
> >>
> >
> >
> > [Non-text portions of this message have been removed]
> >
> >
> >
> > ------------------------------------
> >
> > Yahoo! Groups Links
> >
> >
> >
> >
> >
>
>
>
> [Non-text portions of this message have been removed]
>

Ben charging the battery directly with the 24v charger works.

The RL1000 with dock needs 38v power supply different than a battery charger. If
you don't use a dock the 32v power will work.
  As to why you need a 38v power supply and the contact points (horns) on the
mower need to be 36v you will have to ask Fiendly Robotics.
--- In RoboMower@yahoogroups.com, Ben <benj@...> wrote:
>
> "The the power supply for the RL 1000 dock needs at least 38v dc"
>
> Unfortunately I do not have a 36v power supply to compare. What is the
> reason it requires 36 or 38 volts? With the 24v battery charger it it
> charging the pack to 26.5v, 13.25/battery. Everything else regarding the
> dock and signal wire works fine.
>
>
>
> On Tue, May 4, 2010 at 10:54 AM, bkelley9401
> <neverheardofhim@...>wrote:
>
> >
> >
> >
> >
> > The the power supply for the RL 1000 dock needs at least 38v dc. You need
> > 36v dc at the contacts.
> > I don't have an RL 1000 to play with, but does the RL 1000 work as it
> > should if the battery is fully charged and the horns (charging contacts)
> > taped over when in the docking station? If the 5a charging fuse is pulled
> > and the battery is fully charged will the RL 1000 work as it should? If the
> > 5a charging fuse is pulled and the battey hooked to the after market charger
> > does the RL 1000 work as it should? If you have a yes to any of these their
> > should be a work round.
> > Remember their is no more important safety rule than to let someone else do
> > it for you, you will have someone to blame when it fails.
> >
> > --- In RoboMower@yahoogroups.com <RoboMower%40yahoogroups.com>, Ben <benj@>
> > wrote:
> > >
> > > I picked up a 24v scooter battery charger on Amazon. I've only been using
> > it
> > > a few weeks, the grass hasn't started growing much and my batteries are
> > all
> > > old. I just ordered a new set of batteries.
> > >
> > > 24V 2A Scooter battery Charger with XLR connector
> > >
> > > It seems to work fine. I like the fact that it lowers the current output
> > to
> > > a trickle when the battery is charged.
> > >
> > > Has anyone else had experience using a 24v charger on the robomower with
> > > dock?
> > >
> > > -ben
> > >
> > >
> > > [Non-text portions of this message have been removed]
> > >
> >
> >
> >
>
>
> [Non-text portions of this message have been removed]
>

http://cgi.ebay.com/Directions-Rebuild-Robomower-Battery-power-pack-/35034994200\
1?cmd=ViewItem&pt=LH_DefaultDomain_0&hash=item51927bdcf1

I wonder how many pdf files this guy has sold?

The information is for free on this forum.

I just got a new standard charger and a set of BB batteries for my robomower
RL800.  It took my robomower 2 days to charger these batteries.  This morning,
my robomower ran for almost 4 hours. However, when I plugged in power, I got a
“Check Power” message.  I run the following tests:
·         When I removed my battery pack case, plugged in my power, I
got 37V reading on my mower. 
·         When I put in my battery pack case back to the mower, I got a
“Check Power” message.  Then when I removed my battery pack case, I got
0.5V reading on my mower – for some reasons, the power was cut off.
 
I believe that something wrong with my manual controller cradle but I am not
sure. Any suggestions?
 
Thank you for your help.
Tyt
 




[Non-text portions of this message have been removed]

When I got the same message it was because the power jack was  corroded.  I
cleaned it up and the message went away.

In a message dated 5/5/2010 2:26:19 PM Eastern Daylight Time,
tyt92482002@... writes:

I just  got a new standard charger and a set of BB batteries for my
robomower  RL800.  It took my robomower 2 days to charger these batteries.  
This
morning, my robomower ran for almost 4 hours. However, when I plugged in
power, I got a “Check Power” message.  I run the following  tests:
·         When I removed my  battery pack case, plugged in my power, I got
37V reading on my mower.
·         When I put in my battery  pack case back to the mower, I got a “
Check Power” message.  Then when I  removed my battery pack case, I got 0.5V
reading on my mower – for some  reasons, the power was cut off.

I believe that something wrong  with my manual controller cradle but I am
not sure. Any  suggestions?

Thank you for your help.
Tyt





[Non-text portions of this message have been removed]

Where is power jack located at?

--- On Wed, 5/5/10, stuarth44@... <stuarth44@...> wrote:


From: stuarth44@... <stuarth44@...>
Subject: Re: [RoboMower] Robomower RL800 - "Check Power" Message
To: RoboMower@yahoogroups.com
Date: Wednesday, May 5, 2010, 1:27 PM


 




When I got the same message it was because the power jack was corroded. I
cleaned it up and the message went away.

In a message dated 5/5/2010 2:26:19 PM Eastern Daylight Time,
tyt92482002@ yahoo.com writes:

I just got a new standard charger and a set of BB batteries for my
robomower RL800. It took my robomower 2 days to charger these batteries. This
morning, my robomower ran for almost 4 hours. However, when I plugged in
power, I got a “Check Power” message. I run the following tests:
· When I removed my battery pack case, plugged in my power, I got
37V reading on my mower.
· When I put in my battery pack case back to the mower, I got a “
Check Power” message. Then when I removed my battery pack case, I got 0.5V
reading on my mower – for some reasons, the power was cut off.

I believe that something wrong with my manual controller cradle but I am
not sure. Any suggestions?

Thank you for your help.
Tyt

[Non-text portions of this message have been removed]











[Non-text portions of this message have been removed]

The jack in the manual controller cradle that you plug the wire from the
power supply into.

In a message dated 5/5/2010 2:45:31 PM Eastern Daylight Time,
tyt92482002@... writes:

Where is  power jack located at?

--- On Wed, 5/5/10, _stuarth44@..._ (mailto:stuarth44@...)
<_stuarth44@..._ (mailto:stuarth44@...) >  wrote:

From: _stuarth44@..._ (mailto:stuarth44@...)  <_stuarth44@..._
(mailto:stuarth44@...) >
Subject:  Re: [RoboMower] Robomower RL800 - "Check Power" Message
To: _RoboMower@yahoogrouRoboMo_ (mailto:RoboMower@yahoogroups.com)
Date:  Wednesday, May 5, 2010, 1:27 PM





[Non-text portions of this message have been removed]

Just replaced the drive train assembly (gear/motor se up) on my RL
500. The original was in and the left gears broke. Installed new,
worked great by the remote, but when I set it to mow by itself, when
it takes off, it will roll a foot or so, make the error sound, display
"drive problem", roll another couple of feet and stop.
Of note- it will only turn left or right when not already moving in
another direction.
Software issue/ideas?

Thanks
Robbie

May the Heartbeat of God thrive in you and bless you.

The best deal seems to be a pair of the EB20-12 from Digikey.com.
You'll pay more than $80, but they should last.
The Tempest TD22-12 deal was somewhat cheaper, but people who tried them
generally said the long-term performance didn't pan out.

Danny

That is what I am saying this guy is selling plans he says can rebuild a battery
pack for only $80.  The post started by saying all that same information is on
this site.  I say maybe he knows something, but probably a scam who will be the
first to spend $20 to find out.

Save your $$.



I can get replacement batteries locally for about $30-$35 ea. They won't last a
single season in a Robomower.



Tim

> To: RoboMower@yahoogroups.com
> From: peedeethepirate@...
> Date: Wed, 5 May 2010 20:20:11 +0000
> Subject: [RoboMower] Re: I have read this forum for a while where do you get 2
batteries for $80 total
>
>
> That is what I am saying this guy is selling plans he says can rebuild a
battery pack for only $80. The post started by saying all that same information
is on this site. I say maybe he knows something, but probably a scam who will be
the first to spend $20 to find out.
>
>
>
> ------------------------------------
>
> Yahoo! Groups Links
>
>
>

_________________________________________________________________
Hotmail has tools for the New Busy. Search, chat and e-mail from your inbox.
http://www.windowslive.com/campaign/thenewbusy?ocid=PID28326::T:WLMTAGL:ON:WL:en\
-US:WM_HMP:042010_1

[Non-text portions of this message have been removed]

He sells other stuff too.



  http://cgi.ebay.com/ws/eBayISAPI.dll?ViewItem
<http://cgi.ebay.com/ws/eBayISAPI.dll?ViewItem&item=120524463076>
&item=120524463076







From: RoboMower@yahoogroups.com [mailto:RoboMower@yahoogroups.com] On Behalf
Of Frans
Sent: Tuesday, May 04, 2010 11:49 PM
To: RoboMower@yahoogroups.com
Subject: [RoboMower] "Directions how to Rebuild Robomower Battery power
pack"





http://cgi.ebay.com/Directions-Rebuild-Robomower-Battery-power-pack-/3503499
42001?cmd=ViewItem
<http://cgi.ebay.com/Directions-Rebuild-Robomower-Battery-power-pack-/350349
942001?cmd=ViewItem&pt=LH_DefaultDomain_0&hash=item51927bdcf1>
&pt=LH_DefaultDomain_0&hash=item51927bdcf1

I wonder how many pdf files this guy has sold?

The information is for free on this forum.





[Non-text portions of this message have been removed]

Tim Wolff wrote:
> Save your $$.
>
>
>
> I can get replacement batteries locally for about $30-$35 ea. They won't last
a single season in a Robomower.

I will say that with the zener regulators on both Robomowers are
charging properly and going to "Charge complete" when finished. And the
bulbs do come on at slightly different times for the new batteries,
different times for the 10 year old Yusa and the 5 year old APC battery.

Cost of regulators: About $4.00 in parts for each Robomower.

Chris

The inexpensive batteries are not deep cycle cells. Hang all the diodes you want
on them. Charging is not what kills the cheap batteries, it is the discharge
they get in the mower.

> To: RoboMower@yahoogroups.com
> From: cz@...
> Date: Wed, 5 May 2010 23:10:35 -0400
> Subject: Re: [RoboMower] Re: I have read this forum for a while where do you
get 2 batteries for $80 total
>
> Tim Wolff wrote:
> > Save your $$.
> >
> >
> >
> > I can get replacement batteries locally for about $30-$35 ea. They won't
last a single season in a Robomower.
>
> I will say that with the zener regulators on both Robomowers are
> charging properly and going to "Charge complete" when finished. And the
> bulbs do come on at slightly different times for the new batteries,
> different times for the 10 year old Yusa and the 5 year old APC battery.
>
> Cost of regulators: About $4.00 in parts for each Robomower.
>
> Chris
>
>
>
>
> ------------------------------------
>
> Yahoo! Groups Links
>
>
>

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[Non-text portions of this message have been removed]

Tim Wolff wrote:
> The inexpensive batteries are not deep cycle cells. Hang all the diodes you
want on them. Charging is not what kills the cheap batteries, it is the
discharge they get in the mower.

I do not agree, and to quote a person who annoys the daylights out of me
on the US Electricar list (because he's right)

Show me the data.

This afternoon I checked on my RL500. It was still charging, one bulb
was dim, the other off. This shows a voltage differential on charge with
one battery being a bit faster than the other. And if this happens on
new matched batteries, it's only a matter of time before they would
slide out of sync and one would die first while the other sulphated.

Why would the rather low discharge rates of a Robomower kill the batteries?

C

Got a "check drive" error on the RL500 and checked it out. Sure enough
the top wasn't on quite right and it was allowing the gears to skip,
however I see that the right side pinnion is so worn down it's almost
flexible in the teeth....

Sigh. It's running ok now, but I think I need a new drive train soon.
Pity one can't just replace the motors, everything else is perfect of
course.

So who sells it, probotics?

C

If you�re arguing that you can use regular batteries on the Robomower, don�t
worry you�ll get the data.  BTDT.



There are some batteries that do well in the Robo.  Others don�t last 6
months before the runtime is under 2 hours and useless.  Once under 2 hours
they decline very rapidly.



There is experience described here, with numbers, on various batteries.  You
don�t have to believe it, but there is hard earned (expensive) experience as
well.



Dan





From: RoboMower@yahoogroups.com [mailto:RoboMower@yahoogroups.com] On Behalf
Of Christopher Zach
Sent: Thursday, May 06, 2010 8:25 PM
To: RoboMower@yahoogroups.com
Subject: Re: [RoboMower] Re: I have read this forum for a while where do you
get 2 batteries for $80 total





Tim Wolff wrote:
> The inexpensive batteries are not deep cycle cells. Hang all the diodes
you want on them. Charging is not what kills the cheap batteries, it is the
discharge they get in the mower.

I do not agree, and to quote a person who annoys the daylights out of me
on the US Electricar list (because he's right)

Show me the data.

This afternoon I checked on my RL500. It was still charging, one bulb
was dim, the other off. This shows a voltage differential on charge with
one battery being a bit faster than the other. And if this happens on
new matched batteries, it's only a matter of time before they would
slide out of sync and one would die first while the other sulphated.

Why would the rather low discharge rates of a Robomower kill the batteries?

C





[Non-text portions of this message have been removed]

Dan Barclay wrote:
> If you�re arguing that you can use regular batteries on the Robomower, don�t
> worry you�ll get the data.  BTDT.

Ok. I'm using Power-Sonic 17ah ones. Pretty good-ish make, not Hawkers
but I don't think the regen on a Robomower is that much.

> There is experience described here, with numbers, on various batteries.  You
> don�t have to believe it, but there is hard earned (expensive) experience as
> well.

I know. But what I see mostly is anecdotal, not "this battery pack was
pulled apart and here's what the batteries looked like" or "while
driving along here was the voltage on each battery" or whatever.

That's why I took the time and money to put a whole Paktrakr interface
on a new pack. And why I am shooting the time to run a second Robo with
a totally whacked-out pack (a several year old battery plus a 10 year
old never used Yusa is about as weird as it will get).

I'm not totally new on this, I drive a US Electricar Prizm with 50 26ah
batteries in it. I toasted two packs of Hawkers before figuring out that
yes, you need battery regulators of some sort because even at an average
voltage of 350v (14vpb) some were at 12 and some were sitting at 16. And
I run my shed on 24v 80ah AGM batteries with a solar charger, I got
tired of replacing them every year so I put in regs and the current set
has been going for *years*.

I just want to do something to make the RL battery packs last longer. I
think it's possible, and I think that part of the problem is lack of
regulation on charge. I burned up one used set of batteries, and was
well on the way to killing a second set when I put in the zeners.

Time will tell. But it would be handy to have someone else do this.
Takes 30 minutes with a soldering iron to make em, and it doesn't screw
up the charge algorythm so what do you have to lose?

C

I'm not familiar with Power Sonic.  I'm guessing they have more than one
battery type.  If the batteries you're using were designed for, say, UPS
other "standby" service they're not likely to last long in the Robomower.

Data sheets on batteries will show expected service after XX cycles.  In
addition, the 17ah capacity depends on the discharge rate.  You'll normally
get 4 to 6 amp load while mowing, batteries designed for 17ah at 1 amp will
have a different (lower) capacity at 4 amps.

The data you'll find here will likely be reports on mower cycle times after
some period of usage.

It sounds like you have a handle on the importance of balanced batteries in
a pack, and that's a big part of things, but in the Robomower all you really
need to do is keep batteries paired for life.  You can also split used pairs
and get a little more life from them, but not much.

This isn't exactly the same application as the Prizm unless you're running
it to the range limit at constant speed on every charge.  That's what most
Robomowers do, which results in deep discharge on every cycle.

Batteries have different internal construction depending on expected usage.
Like a fishing boat, you'll have one kind of battery for starting the
outboard motor... a completely different kind for running the trolling
motor.

There are some batteries that have had good results in Robomowers, some
others that are almost useless (I've had some of both!).  As you run your
batteries, pay attention to how you're running them and let us know your
results.  We're always looking for less expensive (but good) batteries.

Dan


> -----Original Message-----
> From: RoboMower@yahoogroups.com [mailto:RoboMower@yahoogroups.com] On
> Behalf Of Christopher Zach
> Sent: Thursday, May 06, 2010 10:11 PM
> To: RoboMower@yahoogroups.com
> Subject: Re: [RoboMower] Re: I have read this forum for a while where
> do you get 2 batteries for $80 total
>
> Dan Barclay wrote:
> > If you're arguing that you can use regular batteries on the
> Robomower, don't
> > worry you'll get the data.  BTDT.
>
> Ok. I'm using Power-Sonic 17ah ones. Pretty good-ish make, not Hawkers
> but I don't think the regen on a Robomower is that much.
>
> > There is experience described here, with numbers, on various
> batteries.  You
> > don't have to believe it, but there is hard earned (expensive)
> experience as
> > well.
>
> I know. But what I see mostly is anecdotal, not "this battery pack was
> pulled apart and here's what the batteries looked like" or "while
> driving along here was the voltage on each battery" or whatever.
>
> That's why I took the time and money to put a whole Paktrakr interface
> on a new pack. And why I am shooting the time to run a second Robo with
> a totally whacked-out pack (a several year old battery plus a 10 year
> old never used Yusa is about as weird as it will get).
>
> I'm not totally new on this, I drive a US Electricar Prizm with 50 26ah
> batteries in it. I toasted two packs of Hawkers before figuring out
> that
> yes, you need battery regulators of some sort because even at an
> average
> voltage of 350v (14vpb) some were at 12 and some were sitting at 16.
> And
> I run my shed on 24v 80ah AGM batteries with a solar charger, I got
> tired of replacing them every year so I put in regs and the current set
> has been going for *years*.
>
> I just want to do something to make the RL battery packs last longer. I
> think it's possible, and I think that part of the problem is lack of
> regulation on charge. I burned up one used set of batteries, and was
> well on the way to killing a second set when I put in the zeners.
>
> Time will tell. But it would be handy to have someone else do this.
> Takes 30 minutes with a soldering iron to make em, and it doesn't screw
> up the charge algorythm so what do you have to lose?
>
> C
>
>
> ------------------------------------
>
> Yahoo! Groups Links
>
>
>

You certainly CAN replace the motors alone, or the gear frame (the frame
often melts if the motors overheat).

The only limitation is you cannot replace the motor pinion alone without
replacing the motor.

Danny

Christopher Zach wrote:
> Got a "check drive" error on the RL500 and checked it out. Sure enough
> the top wasn't on quite right and it was allowing the gears to skip,
> however I see that the right side pinnion is so worn down it's almost
> flexible in the teeth....
>
> Sigh. It's running ok now, but I think I need a new drive train soon.
> Pity one can't just replace the motors, everything else is perfect of
> course.
>
> So who sells it, probotics?
>
> C
>

I believe he means the fact that they're being run down in the first place.

I think it's both.  Imbalance is a problem.  Thermal runaway is probably
killing batts periodically too.

I don't believe the zener reg is really doing what it's supposed to.
The tolerance on the voltages is much worse than what the batt needs.
In fact, it can potentially throw the batts OUT of balance.  In the
worst case, it may cause the charger to fail to progress through the
charge stages and that can be a major hazard.

Danny

Christopher Zach wrote:
> Tim Wolff wrote:
>
>> The inexpensive batteries are not deep cycle cells. Hang all the diodes you
want on them. Charging is not what kills the cheap batteries, it is the
discharge they get in the mower.
>>
>
> I do not agree, and to quote a person who annoys the daylights out of me
> on the US Electricar list (because he's right)
>
> Show me the data.
>
> This afternoon I checked on my RL500. It was still charging, one bulb
> was dim, the other off. This shows a voltage differential on charge with
> one battery being a bit faster than the other. And if this happens on
> new matched batteries, it's only a matter of time before they would
> slide out of sync and one would die first while the other sulphated.
>
> Why would the rather low discharge rates of a Robomower kill the batteries?
>
> C
>
>



[Non-text portions of this message have been removed]