Would anyone like to help out Reid? I can't make the auction.

Doug

----- Original Message -----
From: "Reid Simonsen" <rsimon@...>
To: <PARTS@yahoogroups.com>
Sent: Friday, January 31, 2003 10:12 PM
Subject: Re: [PARTS] Giant Numeric Display @ Saturday's UW Auction


| I would like to bid on that Giant numeric display but I live in Utah.
| Can someone bid it for me?
|
| Reid
|
| -----Original Message-----
| From: "warrenhb" <warrenhb@...>
| To: "PARTS" <PARTS@yahoogroups.com>, "SRS"
| <SeattleRobotics@yahoogroups.com>, <GJansson@...>, "David
| Schilling" <davidNO@...>, <workshop3d-
| rcx@...>
| Date: Fri, 31 Jan 2003 19:47:18 -0800
| Subject: [PARTS] Giant Numeric Display @ Saturday's UW Auction
|
| > For those who may be interested in building
| > large displays for competitive events,
| > tomorrow morning the following item will be
| > auctioned off at U of W Surplus Property:
| >
| > TIMER STATION
| > http://www.washington.edu/admin/surplus/l22.html
| >
| > Doug Bell, warrenhb@...
| >
| >
| >
| > PARTS web location http://www.portlandrobotics.org/
| >
| > Do NOT send unsubscribe requests to PARTS@yahoogroups.com.
| >
| > To unsubscribe from this group, send an email to:
| > PARTS-unsubscribe@yahoogroups.com
| >
| > The subject and body of the message do not matter.
| >
| > If you send an email to PARTS@yahoogroups.com, this bothers everyone
| > and does not unsubscribe you!
| > Only sending email to PARTS-unsubscribe@yahoogroups.com will work.
| >
| >
| >
| >
| > Your use of Yahoo! Groups is subject to
| > http://docs.yahoo.com/info/terms/
| >
| >
|
|
|
|
| *********************************
| Get your free E-Mail and Homepage
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|
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| Do NOT send unsubscribe requests to PARTS@yahoogroups.com.
|
| To unsubscribe from this group, send an email to:
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|
| The subject and body of the message do not matter.
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| If you send an email to PARTS@yahoogroups.com, this bothers everyone and
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|
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|
|

Hello

I got an assignment in which i gotta convert my pc mouse into a robot that
senses a LED in a vicinity of 2 metres radius and then follows that Light
emitting source. It should use the processor inside the mouse and a 8051
microcontrollers.. I need some tips and ideas on the subject please

Yaser



---------------------------------
Do you Yahoo!?
Yahoo! Mail Plus - Powerful. Affordable. Sign up now

[Non-text portions of this message have been removed]

--- In SeattleRobotics@yahoogroups.com, "dan michaels <dan@o...>"
<dan@o...> wrote:
> --- In SeattleRobotics@yahoogroups.com, "David P. Anderson"
> <dpa@i...> wrote:
>
> > simulation, and which I believe the Mattel toy,
> >
> > http://techtransfer.jpl.nasa.gov/successstories/education/mars-
> rover.html
> >
>
> For rough terrain, there is also the Marsokhod design:
>
> http://quest.arc.nasa.gov/lfm/background/marsokhod.html
> http://www.jason.org/expeditions/jason6/marsokhod/
>
http://www.lpi.usra.edu/publications/newsletters/lpib/lpib75/bull4.htm
> l
> =======================
>
>

I'm making two of these things so making one look a bit like the
Marsokhod was sort of in the plans.

Thanks for the info on it.  Does anyone have a detailed description
of the design itself.  The Marsokhod seems to have two points with
ball joints (>o<)and all 6 wheels are powered.

    ------     -------     -------
   |      |>o<|       |>o<|       |
     (O)         (O)        (O)
^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^

--Chris Vancil

On Saturday 01 February 2003 10:50 pm, Yaser Paracha wrote:
> Hello
>
> I got an assignment in which i gotta convert my pc mouse into a
> robot that senses a LED in a vicinity of 2 metres radius and then
> follows that Light emitting source. It should use the processor
> inside the mouse and a 8051 microcontrollers.. I need some tips and
> ideas on the subject please

I don't know how much you can use the processor in the mouse. These
are ROM-based processors which can't have their program changed. They
do one thing -- listen to the encoders -- and communicate back to a
PC. Using the encoders to sense a remote LED might not work because
they're set up with a powerful LED internally, and their output is
probably digital rather than analog.

--
Ned Konz
http://bike-nomad.com
GPG key ID: BEEA7EFE

While at SRS' yahoogroups I wrote the message I'm
replying to...using my own account. How come it says
Dan wrote it???

--Chris Vancil

--- "dan michaels <dan@...>"
<dan@...> wrote:
> --- In SeattleRobotics@yahoogroups.com, "dan
> michaels <dan@o...>"
> <dan@o...> wrote:
> > --- In SeattleRobotics@yahoogroups.com, "David P.
> Anderson"
> > <dpa@i...> wrote:
> >
> > > simulation, and which I believe the Mattel toy,
> > >
> > >
>
http://techtransfer.jpl.nasa.gov/successstories/education/mars-
> > rover.html
> > >
> >
> > For rough terrain, there is also the Marsokhod
> design:
> >
> >
>
http://quest.arc.nasa.gov/lfm/background/marsokhod.html
> > http://www.jason.org/expeditions/jason6/marsokhod/
> >
>
http://www.lpi.usra.edu/publications/newsletters/lpib/lpib75/bull4.htm
> > l
> > =======================
> >
> >
>
> I'm making two of these things so making one look a
> bit like the
> Marsokhod was sort of in the plans.
>
> Thanks for the info on it.  Does anyone have a
> detailed description
> of the design itself.  The Marsokhod seems to have
> two points with
> ball joints (>o<)and all 6 wheels are powered.
>
>    ------     -------     -------
>   |      |>o<|       |>o<|       |
>     (O)         (O)        (O)
> ^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^
>
> --Chris Vancil
>


__________________________________________________
Do you Yahoo!?
Yahoo! Mail Plus - Powerful. Affordable. Sign up now.
http://mailplus.yahoo.com

--- In SeattleRobotics@yahoogroups.com, chris vancil <clvancil@y...>
wrote:
> While at SRS' yahoogroups I wrote the message I'm
> replying to...using my own account. How come it says
> Dan wrote it???
>
> --Chris Vancil
>

Chris, I reposted it to the group after I received it directly.

Check the "To:" box on top of the screen - in this particular group,
it defaults your reply to the guy whose msg you are responding to,
not to the group itself. I send to the wrong places about 80% of the
time.


- dan
================


> --- "dan michaels <dan@o...>"
> <dan@o...> wrote:
> > --- In SeattleRobotics@yahoogroups.com, "dan
> > michaels <dan@o...>"
> > <dan@o...> wrote:
> > > --- In SeattleRobotics@yahoogroups.com, "David P.
> > Anderson"
> > > <dpa@i...> wrote:
> > >
> > > > simulation, and which I believe the Mattel toy,
> > > >
> > > >
> >
> http://techtransfer.jpl.nasa.gov/successstories/education/mars-
> > > rover.html
> > > >
> > >
> > > For rough terrain, there is also the Marsokhod
> > design:
> > >
> > >
> >
> http://quest.arc.nasa.gov/lfm/background/marsokhod.html
> > > http://www.jason.org/expeditions/jason6/marsokhod/
> > >
> >
>
http://www.lpi.usra.edu/publications/newsletters/lpib/lpib75/bull4.htm
> > > l
> > > =======================
> > >
> > >
> >
> > I'm making two of these things so making one look a
> > bit like the
> > Marsokhod was sort of in the plans.
> >
> > Thanks for the info on it.  Does anyone have a
> > detailed description
> > of the design itself.  The Marsokhod seems to have
> > two points with
> > ball joints (>o<)and all 6 wheels are powered.
> >
> >    ------     -------     -------
> >   |      |>o<|       |>o<|       |
> >     (O)         (O)        (O)
> > ^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^
> >
> > --Chris Vancil
> >
>
>
> __________________________________________________
> Do you Yahoo!?
> Yahoo! Mail Plus - Powerful. Affordable. Sign up now.
> http://mailplus.yahoo.com

Eudora at least has a "Reply All" button that sends it to all the
recipients, which in this case sends one copy to the original author and
one copy to the group.  i just delete the individual recipient so it goes
to the whole group

At 07:59 PM 2/2/2003 +0000, dan michaels <dan@...> wrote:
>--- In SeattleRobotics@yahoogroups.com, chris vancil <clvancil@y...>
>wrote:
> > While at SRS' yahoogroups I wrote the message I'm
> > replying to...using my own account. How come it says
> > Dan wrote it???
> >
> > --Chris Vancil
> >
>
>Chris, I reposted it to the group after I received it directly.
>
>Check the "To:" box on top of the screen - in this particular group,
>it defaults your reply to the guy whose msg you are responding to,
>not to the group itself. I send to the wrong places about 80% of the
>time.
>
>
>- dan
>================
>
>
> > --- "dan michaels <dan@o...>"
> > <dan@o...> wrote:
> > > --- In SeattleRobotics@yahoogroups.com, "dan
> > > michaels <dan@o...>"
> > > <dan@o...> wrote:
> > > > --- In SeattleRobotics@yahoogroups.com, "David P.
> > > Anderson"
> > > > <dpa@i...> wrote:
> > > >
> > > > > simulation, and which I believe the Mattel toy,
> > > > >
> > > > >
> > >
> > http://techtransfer.jpl.nasa.gov/successstories/education/mars-
> > > > rover.html
> > > > >
> > > >
> > > > For rough terrain, there is also the Marsokhod
> > > design:
> > > >
> > > >
> > >
> > http://quest.arc.nasa.gov/lfm/background/marsokhod.html
> > > > http://www.jason.org/expeditions/jason6/marsokhod/
> > > >
> > >
> >
>http://www.lpi.usra.edu/publications/newsletters/lpib/lpib75/bull4.htm
> > > > l
> > > > =======================
> > > >
> > > >
> > >
> > > I'm making two of these things so making one look a
> > > bit like the
> > > Marsokhod was sort of in the plans.
> > >
> > > Thanks for the info on it.  Does anyone have a
> > > detailed description
> > > of the design itself.  The Marsokhod seems to have
> > > two points with
> > > ball joints (>o<)and all 6 wheels are powered.
> > >
> > >    ------     -------     -------
> > >   |      |>o<|       |>o<|       |
> > >     (O)         (O)        (O)
> > > ^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^
> > >
> > > --Chris Vancil
> > >
> >
> >
> > __________________________________________________
> > Do you Yahoo!?
> > Yahoo! Mail Plus - Powerful. Affordable. Sign up now.
> > http://mailplus.yahoo.com
>
>
>Visit the SRS Website at http://www.seattlerobotics.org
>
>To unsubscribe from this group, send an email to:
>SeattleRobotics-unsubscribe@yahoogroups.com
>
>
>Your use of Yahoo! Groups is subject to http://docs.yahoo.com/info/terms/

We would like to remind you of this upcoming event.

Monday Night Chat

Date: Monday, February 3, 2003
Time: 7:00PM - 9:00PM PST (GMT-08:00)

Monday Night Chat happens every Monday at the SRS. Come ask
questions or offer advice live.

Directions:

The chat requires that you use an Internet Relay Chat (IRC)
program. Details on finding one are below.

For you experts, the chat is held on us.chatjunkies.org in the
#SeattleRobotics group.

For Windows users:

See the SRS website at

http://www.seattlerobotics.org/contact.html#Monday

It can be very cool and you can definitely decode rs232
output of the mouse easily with any microcontroller with rs232 port. And
you can use this data(velocity/position) to control your mouse
bot and to measure and keep track of its path.

For detecting the LED , as you probably guess, you can use -atleast and
most probably- 2 photoresistors (or phototransistors).

Note: A differential driving motor system wont work if you want to keep
current -central ball- configuration of the mouse.(I mean: rotate
your mouse around its center and you  will see no change on the screen!)
In this case you should design two -independent- perpendicular
-and possibly cylindrical- wheels  so that mouse can move only vertically
and horizontally (of course with some friction if you  dont want to use
additional activators/motors).

There are lots of info on the web about mice.Below is a fast startup
for the interested people.


2 button Microsoft "Serial" Mouse(compatible with 3 buttons):
a-)  3 bytes of data is sent to PC every time mouse moves(or clicked).It
is transmit only.

b-)  1200bps,7data,1stop,no parity.

	   d6   d5   d4   d3   d2   d1   d0
1st byte  1  left  right y7   y6   x7   x6
2nd byte  0  x5    x4    x3   x3   x1   x0
3rd byte  0  y5    y4    y3    y2   y1  y0

x0-7 is the movement of the mouse in X direction since last packet.
y0-7 ...
left left button clicked if it is 1
right ...

c-) Uses RTS as power source. Set 0 then reset 1 to reset mouse.
Then mouse sends M or M3 if it has 3 button, we ignore this M:)

PS/2 mouse differs from Serial mouse.PS/2 receives more than 15 commands
from PC. You can download  MTA41300(PS/2 and serial Mouse Controller
I.C) from Microchip for both electrical and operational
information on PS/2 and serial mice.

-----------------------------------------------------------------

	 Sorry, if I might "want to" missunderstand your question. I
suppose you are NOT asking how to use mouse's infrared receivers to
sense/follow a LED(or better a laser pointer) at 2 meter distance :)

* *
  *
baskan


On Sun, 2 Feb 2003, Ned Konz wrote:

> On Saturday 01 February 2003 10:50 pm, Yaser Paracha wrote:
> > Hello
> >
> > I got an assignment in which i gotta convert my pc mouse into a
> > robot that senses a LED in a vicinity of 2 metres radius and then
> > follows that Light emitting source. It should use the processor
> > inside the mouse and a 8051 microcontrollers.. I need some tips and
> > ideas on the subject please
>
> I don't know how much you can use the processor in the mouse. These
> are ROM-based processors which can't have their program changed. They
> do one thing -- listen to the encoders -- and communicate back to a
> PC. Using the encoders to sense a remote LED might not work because
> they're set up with a powerful LED internally, and their output is
> probably digital rather than analog.
>
> --
> Ned Konz
> http://bike-nomad.com
> GPG key ID: BEEA7EFE
>
>
> Visit the SRS Website at http://www.seattlerobotics.org
>
> To unsubscribe from this group, send an email to:
> SeattleRobotics-unsubscribe@yahoogroups.com
>
>
> Your use of Yahoo! Groups is subject to http://docs.yahoo.com/info/terms/
>
>
>

We would like to remind you of this upcoming event.

Monday Night Chat

Date: Monday, February 3, 2003
Time: 7:00PM - 9:00PM PST (GMT-08:00)

Monday Night Chat happens every Monday at the SRS. Come ask
questions or offer advice live.

Directions:

The chat requires that you use an Internet Relay Chat (IRC)
program. Details on finding one are below.

For you experts, the chat is held on us.chatjunkies.org in the
#SeattleRobotics group.

For Windows users:

See the SRS website at

http://www.seattlerobotics.org/contact.html#Monday

A while back there was some discussion about removing broken taps from aluminum.
I'm on another Yahoo! list that deals with machine tools, lathes in particular.
There was a thread there a while back about tapping. The gist of it was that
standard, straight-fluted cutting taps are not the best solution for soft metals
like aluminum. Since I work either with aluminum, composites or polycarbonate in
most of my stuff, I was interested in their experience.

The recommended solution from some of these guys was to either use spiral-fluted
cutting taps, or thread roll forming taps. The spiral-flute taps look like drill
bits with the cutting teeth for the threads. The metal that is cut away tends to
move up the flute as in drilling, rather than clog the tap.

The thread roll forming taps use a larger pilot hole, and the threads are not
cut from the sides of the hole, they are formed by pushing excess metal from the
walls into the shape of threads. This is supposed to work very well in soft
metals. Another interesting thing is that I could buy thread roll forming taps
all the way down to #0-80!

Bob

-----Original Message-----

Bob,

Since discovering TRF (Thread roll forming) taps, I wouldn't use a
cutting tap for aluminum unless I had to...

For tapping aluminum (cutting taps), I use wd-40, or A9 tapping fluid
(Green can). I got some high tech tap fluid from balax for the trf's,
but only use it when I'm "scared"<G>. The rest of the time, I just
use a std. tapping fluid made for the material I'm working on.


[Non-text portions of this message have been removed]

In Aluminum, my experience is to use a lubricant suitable for tapping in
Aluminum, such as kerosene.  Use the largest tap drill allowed for your
thread (Machinery's Handbook has ranges), use a three-step tapping
process (three different taps, each taking out more material) if you are
really concerned about it.  Finally, be VERY careful to start the tap
straight in the hole, and to apply no side pressure to the tap as you
run it in.  I've broken a few taps in my time, and I can blame using a
tap that's too dull, taking out too much material (undersize tap drill),
or putting too much load on the side as I was doing it, every time.

I did the control system one time for a company that built a tapping
machine to thread 5/16" holes in the end of cold-finished 1020 steel.
Once we had it done, I broke a couple of taps in setting up the machine.
   I was concerned at first, but shortly they were able to run hundreds
of parts on a single tap, while never breaking the tap.  Bottom line is
that with proper care, the right lubricant and the right tap-drill, you
shouldn't have a problem with tap breakage.  You will, but you shouldn't
:-).

Gary Livick



Bob Dyer wrote:

> A while back there was some discussion about removing broken taps from
aluminum.
> I'm on another Yahoo! list that deals with machine tools, lathes in
particular.
> There was a thread there a while back about tapping. The gist of it was that
> standard, straight-fluted cutting taps are not the best solution for soft
metals
> like aluminum. Since I work either with aluminum, composites or polycarbonate
in
> most of my stuff, I was interested in their experience.
>
> The recommended solution from some of these guys was to either use
spiral-fluted
> cutting taps, or thread roll forming taps. The spiral-flute taps look like
drill
> bits with the cutting teeth for the threads. The metal that is cut away tends
to
> move up the flute as in drilling, rather than clog the tap.
>
> The thread roll forming taps use a larger pilot hole, and the threads are not
> cut from the sides of the hole, they are formed by pushing excess metal from
the
> walls into the shape of threads. This is supposed to work very well in soft
> metals. Another interesting thing is that I could buy thread roll forming taps
> all the way down to #0-80!
>
> Bob
>
> -----Original Message-----
>
> Bob,
>
> Since discovering TRF (Thread roll forming) taps, I wouldn't use a
> cutting tap for aluminum unless I had to...
>
> For tapping aluminum (cutting taps), I use wd-40, or A9 tapping fluid
> (Green can). I got some high tech tap fluid from balax for the trf's,
> but only use it when I'm "scared"<G>. The rest of the time, I just
> use a std. tapping fluid made for the material I'm working on.
>
>
> [Non-text portions of this message have been removed]
>
>
> Visit the SRS Website at http://www.seattlerobotics.org
>
> To unsubscribe from this group, send an email to:
> SeattleRobotics-unsubscribe@yahoogroups.com
>
>
> Your use of Yahoo! Groups is subject to http://docs.yahoo.com/info/terms/
>
>
>
>

Building David Cook's sandwich robot and trying to locate gear head
motors (Hsiang Neng product number GH12-1324Y)for this in Canada.
Any suggestions?  Thanks

Building David Cook's sandwich robot and trying to locate gear head
motors (Hsiang Neng product number GH12-1324Y)for this in Canada.
Any suggestions?  Thanks

You can get them at Jameco Electric  www.jameco.com

They are $16.95 US each

Pete

----- Original Message -----
From: <spenner@...>
To: <SeattleRobotics@yahoogroups.com>
Sent: Tuesday, February 04, 2003 6:56 AM
Subject: [SeattleRobotics] hsiang neng gear head motor


> Building David Cook's sandwich robot and trying to locate gear head
> motors (Hsiang Neng product number GH12-1324Y)for this in Canada.
> Any suggestions?  Thanks
>
>
> Visit the SRS Website at http://www.seattlerobotics.org
>
> To unsubscribe from this group, send an email to:
> SeattleRobotics-unsubscribe@yahoogroups.com
>
>
> Your use of Yahoo! Groups is subject to http://docs.yahoo.com/info/terms/
>
>
>
>

Hi All,

The meeting minutes are finally posted with links and stuff.

Visit the "Files" area

http://groups.yahoo.com/group/SeattleRobotics/files/

and click on the

"Meeting Minutes index page" file.

Cheers,

Steve Kaehler - SRS secretary

P.S. No Dec 2002 minutes because I missed the meeting.  Also, for
your convenience the tentative calendar of events is on the "2003"
link in the above mentioned index file.

Gary,

Thanks. I've also included the original e-mail from the other list I'm on that
had some suggestions very close to yours.

Hopefully, using Nitric Acid to eat a tap out of aluminum will be a thing of the
past after this.

Bob

-----Original Message-----
From: Jack Hammond

After breaking my share of taps I have developed a secret formula that is
almost fool proof,,,don't share this method anybody except your best
friends..
1. drill the right size hole (this makes a big difference on the smaller
taps sizes, so remember a 1/8 drill hole will not cover all the other sizes
up to 1/2 inch...)
2. try and get the tap to go in straight (this really helps sometimes)
3. use a Sharp tap (that could mean a new tap, rather than the rust covered
piece of scrap you have rattling around loose with your other cutting tools)
4.use tap cutting oil on some metals.. (I know that it costs more than the
waste oil from your cars last oil change ..but it's worth it)
5. As you are tapping.. REMOVE AND CLEAN THE TAP & HOLE VERY VERY OFTEN, 99%
OF ALL tap breakage is caused by chips binding the tap to the hole)
6. use a proper tap wrench, (other wrenches are made for other things)
7. read and follow no. 5 again and again....



-----Original Message-----
From: Gary Livick [mailto:glivick@...]

In Aluminum, my experience is to use a lubricant suitable for tapping in
Aluminum, such as kerosene.  Use the largest tap drill allowed for your
thread (Machinery's Handbook has ranges), use a three-step tapping
process (three different taps, each taking out more material) if you are
really concerned about it.  Finally, be VERY careful to start the tap
straight in the hole, and to apply no side pressure to the tap as you
run it in.  I've broken a few taps in my time, and I can blame using a
tap that's too dull, taking out too much material (undersize tap drill),
or putting too much load on the side as I was doing it, every time.

I did the control system one time for a company that built a tapping
machine to thread 5/16" holes in the end of cold-finished 1020 steel.
Once we had it done, I broke a couple of taps in setting up the machine.
   I was concerned at first, but shortly they were able to run hundreds
of parts on a single tap, while never breaking the tap.  Bottom line is
that with proper care, the right lubricant and the right tap-drill, you
shouldn't have a problem with tap breakage.  You will, but you shouldn't
:-).


[Non-text portions of this message have been removed]

A simple tool to help prevent tap breakage is a square block of metal
with holes drilled through it for the various tap sizes.  You place
the block on top of your work, place the tap in the hole and then
start tapping.  The block keeps the tap square which does make a big
difference.

----- Original Message -----
From: "Bob Dyer" <bd@...>
To: "SRS" <SeattleRobotics@yahoogroups.com>
Sent: Tuesday, February 04, 2003 9:54 AM
Subject: RE: [SeattleRobotics] FW: ways to keep from breaking taps


> Gary,
>
> Thanks. I've also included the original e-mail from the other list
I'm on that
> had some suggestions very close to yours.
>
> Hopefully, using Nitric Acid to eat a tap out of aluminum will be a
thing of the
> past after this.
>
> Bob
>
> -----Original Message-----
> From: Jack Hammond
>
> After breaking my share of taps I have developed a secret formula
that is
> almost fool proof,,,don't share this method anybody except your best
> friends..
> 1. drill the right size hole (this makes a big difference on the
smaller
> taps sizes, so remember a 1/8 drill hole will not cover all the
other sizes
> up to 1/2 inch...)
> 2. try and get the tap to go in straight (this really helps
sometimes)

I agree with Larry there.  His is the most valuable tip for hand tapping.

Gary

Larry Barello wrote:

> A simple tool to help prevent tap breakage is a square block of metal
> with holes drilled through it for the various tap sizes.  You place
> the block on top of your work, place the tap in the hole and then
> start tapping.  The block keeps the tap square which does make a big
> difference.
>
> ----- Original Message -----
> From: "Bob Dyer" <bd@...>
> To: "SRS" <SeattleRobotics@yahoogroups.com>
> Sent: Tuesday, February 04, 2003 9:54 AM
> Subject: RE: [SeattleRobotics] FW: ways to keep from breaking taps
>
>
>
>>Gary,
>>
>>Thanks. I've also included the original e-mail from the other list
>>
> I'm on that
>
>>had some suggestions very close to yours.
>>
>>Hopefully, using Nitric Acid to eat a tap out of aluminum will be a
>>
> thing of the
>
>>past after this.
>>
>>Bob
>>
>>-----Original Message-----
>>From: Jack Hammond
>>
>>After breaking my share of taps I have developed a secret formula
>>
> that is
>
>>almost fool proof,,,don't share this method anybody except your best
>>friends..
>>1. drill the right size hole (this makes a big difference on the
>>
> smaller
>
>>taps sizes, so remember a 1/8 drill hole will not cover all the
>>
> other sizes
>
>>up to 1/2 inch...)
>>2. try and get the tap to go in straight (this really helps
>>
> sometimes)
>
>
> Visit the SRS Website at http://www.seattlerobotics.org
>
> To unsubscribe from this group, send an email to:
> SeattleRobotics-unsubscribe@yahoogroups.com
>
>
> Your use of Yahoo! Groups is subject to http://docs.yahoo.com/info/terms/
>
>
>
>

The National Space Society Seattle Meeting:

February 9th's meeting we will have Jeffrey T. Slostad
speaking on the Mars Polar Lander's Robotic Arm. The
title of his talk is: "It is the process, not the
product; my experience working on the Mars Polar
Lander."  This should be a really interesting talk!
to learn more about Jeff and his business and life
check out: http://www.marsguy.com/

Here is the details on NSS Seattle meetings...

Our meetings are free, open to the general public and
are often very informal.

We meet in the Red Barn Classrooom at the Museum of
Flight at 7:00 PM on the second Sunday of every month.
  It is a good idea to be a little early.   We will
have finger foods and beverages...

Directions to the Museum of Flight and the Red Barn
Classroom:
As mentioned above the meeting is as usual in the Red
Barn Classroom at 7 PM at the Museum of Flight (I-5
exit 158 and follow the signs).   The Museum is the
big glass building with all the airplane inside next
to Boeing Field

The Parking lot behind the Museum between it and the
airport is the best one to use. The Red Barn is on the
opposite side of the buildings. Enter the Museum thru
the door at the tail of Airforce One turn right and
pass the store.  The elevator is just beyond the store
and just across from the Boeing Credit Union ATM.
Enter the elevator press "B".  After a short descent
you leave the elevator and you will see a hallway
straight ahead.  Go down this hallway to the Red Barn
Classroom. Hope to see you there!

Museum of Flight
9404 East Marginal Way South
Seattle, Washington

Thanks,
--Chris Vancil
VP NSS Seattle





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Does any one have more info on the alleged Dana 12 series transaxle
designed for electric drive? Nothing available on the Dana site as far
as I can tell.

Hello Everyone

I have an electrical background and am trying to design a vertical
worm gear system around a simple threaded rod (worm gears 3ft long
are expensive). I have an R/C servo with 114.52 oz/in @4.8V which
will turn a 36 toothed gear. This gear will be turning a 100 toothed
gear which will be directly mounted on the treaded rod. I know that
the torque at the large gear will be ~316.67 oz/in but how do I get
the toque on the worm gear (treaded rod)?

Do I use a tooth ("tread") count on a cross section of the treaded
rod? If so then it would be one, right?   100:1 if so then I get 3.18
oz/in?      ouch

-OR-

Seeing there's a direct connection between the worm and the 100 tooth
gear, thin its a direct torque transfer?

I would like to mount an end effector to a Plato on the worm gear and
would like to know how much I can lift.

If any one with mechanical input could help that would be nice.
Thanks
Brian

Hello, once more

I have uploaded some JPGs of what I am thinking about, the links are

http://theclaw100.tripod.com/worm.jpg
http://theclaw100.tripod.com/worm2.jpg
http://theclaw100.tripod.com/worm3.jpg

I hope this helps people understand what I am trying to explain

Thanks
Brian

-
-- In SeattleRobotics@yahoogroups.com, "barip100 <b_rippie@h...>"
<b_rippie@h...> wrote:
> Hello Everyone
>
> I have an electrical background and am trying to design a vertical
> worm gear system around a simple threaded rod (worm gears 3ft long
> are expensive). I have an R/C servo with 114.52 oz/in @4.8V which
> will turn a 36 toothed gear. This gear will be turning a 100
toothed
> gear which will be directly mounted on the treaded rod. I know that
> the torque at the large gear will be ~316.67 oz/in but how do I get
> the toque on the worm gear (treaded rod)?
>
> Do I use a tooth ("tread") count on a cross section of the treaded
> rod? If so then it would be one, right?   100:1 if so then I get
3.18
> oz/in?      ouch
>
> -OR-
>
> Seeing there's a direct connection between the worm and the 100
tooth
> gear, thin its a direct torque transfer?
>
> I would like to mount an end effector to a Plato on the worm gear
and
> would like to know how much I can lift.
>
> If any one with mechanical input could help that would be nice.
> Thanks
> Brian

I only see one potential problem with your idea I am concerened about
the servo coming apart as a result of too much torque being mounted
with just two holes. How much torque do you need (approx.)

Have you ever wanted to be in a movie?  Well, you can't but your robot can!
Mike contacted me at the end of our last meeting; he's looking to decorate a
set for a Movie.  The movie is being made by 20th Century Fox and stars Will
Smith.  It's based on the book "I, Robot" and should be out in July.  Mike will
be at our next meeting; if you want to rent a robot to him, you can contact him
there.  Otherwise, send me an email and I'll give you his email address.

Doug


  ********************************************************
Doug,
Thanks so much for the meeting last weekend.
I hope to attend the next one in Feb.

Please feel free to pass my contact numbers to any and all those people and
robots, who may be interested.

We are looking for robots, ( functioning and non ) to help decorate our sets.
These can be pieces ( ie. arms and wheeled bases) to whole units.
We can purchase or rent these items.
Nothing is too large.
We also need odd or strange pieces of metal and aluminum for our robot lab.
Think 50 years in the future !!

Best if people can email me photos of what they have.
I want people to feel free to phone/email me if they have any questions.

Thanks again,

--
Michael A. Billings
Set Buyer
CanLaws Productions Ltd.
3500 Cornett Road  Building "G"
Vancouver, BC
V5M 2H5
Office  604-453-4806
Cell      604-782-9316
mikejulie@...

Actually, I believe they are to BEGIN FILMING the movie in July and finish by
October.

Bob

-----Original Message-----
From: Doug Kelley [mailto:doug.kelley@...]

Have you ever wanted to be in a movie?  Well, you can't but your robot can!
Mike contacted me at the end of our last meeting; he's looking to decorate a
set for a Movie.  The movie is being made by 20th Century Fox and stars Will
Smith.  It's based on the book "I, Robot" and should be out in July.  Mike will
be at our next meeting; if you want to rent a robot to him, you can contact him
there.  Otherwise, send me an email and I'll give you his email address.


[Non-text portions of this message have been removed]

Has anybody else tried out the MAX1238 A/D or any members of that
family? I thought I had it all working, but I'm finding that
applying a signal to ANY of the A/D inputs causes all the inputs to
change.

This isn't a simple short circuit problem either. For example, if
I'm reading channel 0, and driving it with a voltage divider pot, I
get a perfectly stable reading of X. Now, if I plug the pot into
channel 1, I get X-y. On channel 2, I get X-y-z and so on. This is
all reading channel 0.

Plus, if I connect the pot to channel 0 and another to one of the
other channels, I see the other channel show up somewhat additively
to channel 0.

I've tried driving the pot from a separate power supply, thinking
maybe somehow there's an interaction, but no luck.

Has anybody experienced anything like this using multi-channel A/D
systems?

Thanks for your thoughts.
-Ted

Hi Ted,

Did you ground the unused connections?

Most modern electronics are sensitive to very minute amounts of current, so
if a connection is left unconnected, it will tend to "follow" its neighbor.

If you ground the connections that you're not using, then you should see
them stay at zero, while the one that the pot is connected to will give you
correct readings.

It's always good practice to ground unused inputs anyways, because CMOS
consumes the most amount of power when the input signal is in the middle
region, away from ground or +5 (This is one of the reasons why laptops draw
less power when you run them at a lower frequency).

--
Dave Hylands
Vancouver, BC, Canada
http://www.DaveHylands.com/


> -----Original Message-----
> From: Ted Inoue <ted@...>
> [mailto:ted@...]
> Sent: Wednesday, February 05, 2003 11:42 AM
> To: SeattleRobotics@yahoogroups.com
> Subject: [SeattleRobotics] Strange A/D behavior using max1238
>
>
> Has anybody else tried out the MAX1238 A/D or any members of that
> family? I thought I had it all working, but I'm finding that
> applying a signal to ANY of the A/D inputs causes all the inputs to
> change.
>
> This isn't a simple short circuit problem either. For example, if
> I'm reading channel 0, and driving it with a voltage divider pot, I
> get a perfectly stable reading of X. Now, if I plug the pot into
> channel 1, I get X-y. On channel 2, I get X-y-z and so on. This is
> all reading channel 0.
>
> Plus, if I connect the pot to channel 0 and another to one of the
> other channels, I see the other channel show up somewhat additively
> to channel 0.
>
> I've tried driving the pot from a separate power supply, thinking
> maybe somehow there's an interaction, but no luck.
>
> Has anybody experienced anything like this using multi-channel A/D
> systems?
>
> Thanks for your thoughts.
> -Ted

You are going to modify the servo for continuous rotation, right?  Other
wise anything on the threaded rod wouldn't go very far.

At 04:19 PM 2/5/2003 +0000, barip100 <b_rippie@...> wrote:

>Hello, once more
>
>I have uploaded some JPGs of what I am thinking about, the links are
>
>http://theclaw100.tripod.com/worm.jpg
>http://theclaw100.tripod.com/worm2.jpg
>http://theclaw100.tripod.com/worm3.jpg
>
>I hope this helps people understand what I am trying to explain
>
>Thanks
>Brian
>
>-
>-- In SeattleRobotics@yahoogroups.com, "barip100 <b_rippie@h...>"
><b_rippie@h...> wrote:
> > Hello Everyone
> >
> > I have an electrical background and am trying to design a vertical
> > worm gear system around a simple threaded rod (worm gears 3ft long
> > are expensive). I have an R/C servo with 114.52 oz/in @4.8V which
> > will turn a 36 toothed gear. This gear will be turning a 100
>toothed
> > gear which will be directly mounted on the treaded rod. I know that
> > the torque at the large gear will be ~316.67 oz/in but how do I get
> > the toque on the worm gear (treaded rod)?
> >
> > Do I use a tooth ("tread") count on a cross section of the treaded
> > rod? If so then it would be one, right?   100:1 if so then I get
>3.18
> > oz/in?      ouch
> >
> > -OR-
> >
> > Seeing there's a direct connection between the worm and the 100
>tooth
> > gear, thin its a direct torque transfer?
> >
> > I would like to mount an end effector to a Plato on the worm gear
>and
> > would like to know how much I can lift.
> >
> > If any one with mechanical input could help that would be nice.
> > Thanks
> > Brian
>
>
>Visit the SRS Website at http://www.seattlerobotics.org
>
>To unsubscribe from this group, send an email to:
>SeattleRobotics-unsubscribe@yahoogroups.com
>
>
>Your use of Yahoo! Groups is subject to http://docs.yahoo.com/info/terms/

Can someone tell me if these use straight PWM for their input control,
or if they use the RC servo-style PWE control signal?  The on-line
documentation (which is not very detailed) says they're PWM, but I
thought that their connectors could be interchanged with RC servos,
which would mean they have to be PWE.  (I'm so confused!)



I'm trying to use the Victor 883's from last year to do a quick and
dirty RC conversion on my 20cm Sumo robot (Bash) so my team can use it
to play 1/4-scale Stack Attack  :-)



Thanks!

Bob





[Non-text portions of this message have been removed]