Sometimes simple is best.

For the few flash stereos I shoot I've been using a pocket-sized Nikon SB-30
mounted on the camera with one of the little devices Dr. T sells. It's a piece
of cake.

I only use the flash for people shots, never to capture an entire room. What
works for me is set the flash at full, set the shutter speed at 1/10, the lens
at somewhere between f/4 - 5.6. The results are terrific. The slow shutter
speed captures the room ambiance and the flash illuminates the foreground
subject.


--- In StereoRealist@yahoogroups.com, "David W. Kesner" <lists@...> wrote:
>
> Dan Mouer writes:
>
> > The trusty old Vivitar 283 works just fine, and is my favorite foolproof
> > general flash. Be sure to use a voltage reducing gizmo like the ones sold
> > by Dr.,T
>
> First, I totally agree about the Vivitar 283 being one of the greatest
> flashes ever made and a perfect pairing for the Realist. The flash has
> four different auto settings that are quite accurate as well as full
> manual. You can also get a optional part that allows you to set the flash
> to full, 1/2, 1/4, 1/8, or 1/16th power. Then yet another optional part
> that allows you to have the sensor separate from the camera.
>
> Second, you do not need a a "safe sync" for the Realist, or any other non-
> electronic camera. The purpose of these devices is to keep the trigger
> voltage of the flash from frying the electronic circuits of the camera.
> No electronic circuits = no problem. Even so, only certain flashes have
> this high voltage trigger. In the 283 it is only those manufactured at
> one plant others are ok.
>
> What I think you may be referring to from Dr. T. is a modified hot shoe
> adaptor. On the Realist the flash contact is a bump that prevents many
> flashes from fitting. There are two cures for this:
>
> 1) File the bump down.
>
> 2) Cut a groove in your flash shoe or a hot shoe adaptor (like the one
> Dr. T. sells).
>
> Hope this helps.
>
> David W. Kesner
> Boise, Idaho, USA
>