In response to Jon's note, LukerDoops will indeed "soon" be up and running, but
my intention is NOT to offer general mounting services, but to offer conversion
(via a film recorder) of digital stereoscopic image files to stereo slides on
film, mounted in RBT mounts. My web designer is having problems adapting a
standard shopping cart to handle a variable number of uploaded file pairs with
added variability in the number of copies requested. 'Twould be nice to have it
done soon, but.....
Those of us already shooting on film with our Realists won't be the targeted
customer base.
Ken Luker
--- In StereoRealist@yahoogroups.com, Jon Golden 3D Concepts <Jon@...> wrote:
>
> I believe Ken Luker is soon to, or is currently offering precision
> mounting services in RBT mounts.
> See below
>
> Kenneth Luker
> LukerDoops
> 1391 S 900 E
> Salt Lake City, Utah 84105
> kluker@...
> http://www.lukerdoops.com/
>
> Regarddds!
> Jon Golden
> 3D Concepts
> PO Box 715
> Carlisle, MA 01741 USA
> 1-978-371-5557
> jsgolden3d@...
> http://www.make3Dimages.com
>
>
>
> Dr T wrote:
>
> >I too have lost track of places or individuals who do stereo slide mounting.
> >Since the inexpensive heat seal cardboard mounts are not in production any
> >more, most of these individuals/companies will have a hard time continuing
> >their services.
> >
> >I have my film processed locally (I have to drive to downtown Cleveland to
> >do that but I can even wait in the car while my film is being processed, and
> >pick it up a couple hours later). I now use RBT mounts exclusively.
> >Slip-in mounts are also convenient and easy to use, at the expense of
> >accuracy.
> >
> >I have put my notes from a stereo slide mounting workshop in our stereo
> >club's web page: www.ohio3d.com
> >
> >George
>
> [Non-text portions of this message have been removed]
>
I believe Ken Luker is soon to, or is currently offering precision
mounting services in RBT mounts.
See below
Kenneth Luker
LukerDoops
1391 S 900 E
Salt Lake City, Utah 84105
kluker@...http://www.lukerdoops.com/
Regarddds!
Jon Golden
3D Concepts
PO Box 715
Carlisle, MA 01741 USA
1-978-371-5557
jsgolden3d@...http://www.make3Dimages.com
Dr T wrote:
>I too have lost track of places or individuals who do stereo slide mounting.
>Since the inexpensive heat seal cardboard mounts are not in production any
>more, most of these individuals/companies will have a hard time continuing
>their services.
>
>I have my film processed locally (I have to drive to downtown Cleveland to
>do that but I can even wait in the car while my film is being processed, and
>pick it up a couple hours later). I now use RBT mounts exclusively.
>Slip-in mounts are also convenient and easy to use, at the expense of
>accuracy.
>
>I have put my notes from a stereo slide mounting workshop in our stereo
>club's web page: www.ohio3d.com
>
>George
[Non-text portions of this message have been removed]
> I would enjoy hearing what people are doing these days. I am reluctant to
> even send the film in with a do not cut on the mailer, thinking it would
> come back cut into slides. There was some on in Arkansas that would mount
> stereo slides, I have lost track of the name.
I too have lost track of places or individuals who do stereo slide mounting.
Since the inexpensive heat seal cardboard mounts are not in production any
more, most of these individuals/companies will have a hard time continuing
their services.
I have my film processed locally (I have to drive to downtown Cleveland to
do that but I can even wait in the car while my film is being processed, and
pick it up a couple hours later). I now use RBT mounts exclusively.
Slip-in mounts are also convenient and easy to use, at the expense of
accuracy.
I have put my notes from a stereo slide mounting workshop in our stereo
club's web page: www.ohio3d.com
George
I've never used a lab that returns mounted stereos, so I've never known the
luxury you write of.
But one of the few perks of my job is that we have an E-6 processor in house.Â
No worries about the film getting accidentally mounted in 2x2s.  And ever
since the supply of heat-seal cardboard mounts has dried up, I've switched to
the RBT mounts myself. They are pricier, but very much worth it in my
opinion. Of those lab-mounted slides I've collected, rarely is there a slide
which I couldn't have mounted with more precision in an RBT.
At this point, I'd recommend DIY mounting. It's always very important to me to
properly adjust for the stereo window.Â
Hillary Hess
________________________________
From: william a. luongo <waluongo@...>
To: StereoRealist@yahoogroups.com
Sent: Sat, November 28, 2009 2:59:25 PM
Subject: [StereoRealist] Mounting, developing, sources, etc.
Â
I know this will sound terrible to many, but I miss the days when one could
simply send a roll of stereo film to Kodak and have it returned mounted.
I would enjoy hearing what people are doing these days. I am reluctant to even
send the film in with a do not cut on the mailer, thinking it would come back
cut into slides. There was some on in Arkansas that would mount stereo slides, I
have lost track of the name.
It would be nice to hear what strategies are being used today.
William
[Non-text portions of this message have been removed]
[Non-text portions of this message have been removed]
william a. luongo wrote:
> I know this will sound terrible to many, but I miss the days when one could
simply send a roll of stereo film to Kodak and have it returned mounted.
>
Doesn't sound terrible at all. I used to use their service until the end
(and it wasn't all THAT long ago when they stopped it -- within the last
decade thereabouts anyway.
When doing film (less and less often) I use and RBT nowadays that
uses "regular" 2x2 processing, so it's kind-of like having used
that Kodak service for realist mounts before.
The few times I "do" realist mounts, it's all manual nowadays
for me though -- RBT plastic mounts and by hand.
Being basically lazy, batch SPM mounting tends to win of
late though. :-(
Mike K.
Hello William,
> It would be nice to hear what strategies are being used today.
I take my film to a local processor ($9.00 for a 36 exp roll). They
develop it, place the uncut roll in a continuous acetate sleeve, loosely
roll it up and place that into a cardboard box. I pick it up, unroll it,
and thumb tack it to a wall for a day or two to get the curl out. I then
cut the individual chips, mount in RBT mount, and enjoy the views in my
DeWijs Combi viewer.
Yes, the RBT mounts are more expensive (about $0.60 each) than cardboard
(about $0.15 each), but unless you are shooting thousands of images the
benefits of the RBTs far out weight the cost. Those benefits being ease
of mounting, precision of the mounts, sturdiness, better in projectors,
and overall good looks.
There are plenty of guides out there for mounting yourself, but it is a
very basic concept and easy to master.
If you really do not want to go to the effort there are still people
offering mounting services, but since I would not use them I have not
kept track of who is still doing it.
Hope that helps,
David W. Kesner
Boise, Idaho, USA
I know this will sound terrible to many, but I miss the days when one could
simply send a roll of stereo film to Kodak and have it returned mounted.
I would enjoy hearing what people are doing these days. I am reluctant to even
send the film in with a do not cut on the mailer, thinking it would come back
cut into slides. There was some on in Arkansas that would mount stereo slides, I
have lost track of the name.
It would be nice to hear what strategies are being used today.
William
[Non-text portions of this message have been removed]
First off, I don't think anybody here was dissing the 3.5 Realist. This is THE
list to praise all Realists! (And even if this list didn't exist, the Realist
has stood the test of time, and doesn't need anybody to defend it.)
Having said that, I have a "collection" of Realists and other stereo cameras,
and have done my own tests. . .
The best way, I suppose, to test for lens sharpness is to open the aperture all
the way, focus and expose correctly on a test screen (like a newspaper) and
check the results versus other cameras / lenses.(This, of course, assumes the
film, lighting, speed, is all the same.) I have not tested this way.
My testing was more "real world": Since most stereo pics are done stopped down
to f/11 or f/16 for that 'in focus' depth of field, I conducted my tests
similarly. I would cart around three or four of my stereo cameras loaded with
the same speed Fuji Provia 100ISO and take pics of the the same subjects. Then I
would get the film developed and leave them in strips. I would then examine them
critically--side by side--on a light box with various power loupes. I would
look for sharpness and color rendition. Shadow definition and bright highlights
were also telling. Then I would take the "winner" (or close second) as a control
and shoot some more with this one and three or four more from my collection. . .
I _tried_ to be objective, regardless of what I paid for these individual
cameras!
My results (from worst to best) are below, but first I must say the differences
between "worst" to "best" is very, very little. One of the "worst" as far as
sharpness goes was a Verascope F40, but the color--at least some colors--were
more 'natural' to my eye than other, sharper lenses displayed.
--Kodak (really, in a BAD league of its own; should not be included with the
cameras below)
--Verascope F40 (French model, not the Busch) Fully baffled.
--Realist 3.5
--Realist Ilex 3.5
--Realist 2.8 (David White Germany lenses)
--Wollensak 2.7 (most accurate shutter!)
--Realist Ektar 3.5
--Belplasca 3.5
--Realist Custom 2.8
--7p Realist Tom Ballatore w/3.5 Zeiss lenses (may be the winner, but these
vignette!)
No real surprises here, I guess; though my collection--and tests--seem to differ
a lil bit from DrT's experience.
I would not hesitate to take any of the above (except the Kodak)on a vacation.
In fact, I might opt for my oldest Realist (the Ilex), since this camera has
been with me the longest (1982?), and has always pleased me with gorgeous
results!
Of course, I'll be toting my new Fujifilm W1 ANYWHERE I go, too. . . And though
I have yet to do any critical testing/comparing of the Fuji with any of the
cameras above, I have no doubt which system will produce better results. Do you?
Or put another way: I'm sure I'll take _more_ pics with the easy point-n-shoot
Fuji, but will they be better? Y'know, the ol' quality vs. quantity thing. . .
Ray Cash
--- In StereoRealist@yahoogroups.com, "DrT \(George Themelis\)" <drt-3d@...>
wrote:
>
> > If you like the style of that camera, try the tdc Vivid
>
> That's ironic Mike because you are replying to a post that specifically said
> that they tried the TDC Vivid and it is "crap".
>
> Personally, I have tried a lot of stereo cameras, including various Realist
> variations (Ilex, David White 3.5, DW 2.8, Ektar, Custom), Kodak, TDC
> Colorist, Belplasca, and have also seen results from others using a variety
> of cameras.
>
> For practical purposes, and assuming that the camera is properly
> adjusted/calibrated, most cameras will give similar results. Certain
> cameras have certain peculiarities, for example, Realist f3.5 lenses show
> vignetting (darkening of corners) at the edges at small apertures (f22,
> f16). Some 4-element lenses (Realist f2.8, Belplasca) might show haze since
> they have one cemented element and the cement can break down with time. The
> highly-praised Ektar Realist did not impress me. Same for the Custom, but I
> have seen great pictures taken with a Custom by Mark Wilke (I suspect it is
> more the photographer, than the camera).
>
> At some point I had 3 favorite Realist cameras: A Realist f3.5, an Ilex
> Realist, and a Realist DW f2.8.
>
> It is only when I got my RBT S1 that I saw a difference in the quality of
> the images. A quality that I have not seen even in other modern camera
> lenses. Hard to qualify. Not exactly sharpness....
>
> George
>