Hello group I have downloaded the new AP driver, everything seemed to load OK. I
can load it into the Sky6 and Maxim. Problem is it crashes the new driver and
freezes the Sky 6 every time I try and go further as in slewing to a target. I
have an AP1200 sky6 pro maxim 4.5 or the latest before 5. I connect in the sky
with Tele API then AP V2.
Any ideas
Thanks
John

Nicely done Dennis!



Stuart



To: ap-gto@yahoogroups.com
From: dpersyk@...
Date: Wed, 11 Nov 2009 20:53:03 +0000
Subject: [ap-gto] Why I Love H-a Imaging –Brief Tutorial





Our skies are filled with nebulae. The nebulae of interest in this tutorial are
huge regions of gas – gas clouds. The nebulae I'll discuss here are called
emission nebulae. We image emission nebulae by means of the light from the
surrounding gas cloud which is ionized by radiation from one or more nearby
stars.

The most common emission nebulae are of the hydrogen emission type. They emit a
very narrow band of red light, and with the appropriate filter (Hydrogen alpha,
or H-a), the camera sees essentially only the nebula light, and moon light and
terrestrial light pollution is nearly completely eliminated.

Imaging with H-a levels the imaging playing field. No matter where you are
imaging from, with an H-a filter you have the equivalent of magnitude 8 super
dark skies! Honest!

Pros of H-a Imaging
• Eliminates light pollution
• Background is now inky black – backgrounds have a zero or nearly zero black
point
• Stars are much dimmer, minimizing star bloat, chromatic aberration and "fat"
stars.
Cons of H-a Imaging
• Very little signal is passed by the filter, so imaging times have to be fairly
long – five minute subs are possible if your camera has very low readout noise
• Autoguiding is probably required
• DLSRs without mods don't have much sensitivity to the H-a light

Here's an example of 2 hours and 15 minutes in nine 15-minute subframes
http://home.att.net/~dpersyk/new.htm

The target is NGC 281, a/k/a the "Pac Man" nebula and Sharpless 2-184. I used a
Takahashi astrograph, f/3.3 and Starlight Xpress SXV-H9 camera. The filter was a
6 nm FWHM H-a. Most processing was done with ImagesPlus. The false color was
added in Photoshop with Noel Carboni's actions. The Hubble employes false color,
so I don't feel like I cheated.

I recommend H-a imaging to everyone who is plagued by sky pollution. No longer
will you have to journey to a dark site to get good images.

Clear skies,

Dennis Persyk
Igloo (Now Roll-Off) Observatory Home Page http://dpersyk.home.att.net
Hampshire, IL






[Non-text portions of this message have been removed]

Our skies are filled with nebulae. The nebulae of interest in this tutorial are
huge regions of gas – gas clouds. The nebulae I'll discuss here are called
emission nebulae. We image emission nebulae by means of the light from the
surrounding  gas cloud which is ionized by radiation from one or more nearby
stars.

The most common emission nebulae are of the hydrogen emission type. They emit a
very narrow band of red light, and with the appropriate filter (Hydrogen alpha,
or H-a), the camera sees essentially only the nebula light, and moon light and
terrestrial light pollution is nearly completely eliminated.

Imaging with H-a levels the imaging playing field. No matter where you are
imaging from, with an H-a filter you have the equivalent of magnitude 8 super
dark skies! Honest!

Pros of H-a Imaging
• Eliminates light pollution
• Background is now inky black – backgrounds have a  zero or nearly zero black
point
• Stars are much dimmer, minimizing star bloat, chromatic aberration and "fat"
stars.
Cons of   H-a Imaging
• Very little signal is passed by the filter, so imaging times have to be fairly
long – five minute subs are possible if your camera has very low readout noise
• Autoguiding is probably required
• DLSRs without mods don't have much sensitivity to the H-a light

Here's an example of 2 hours and 15 minutes in nine 15-minute subframes
http://home.att.net/~dpersyk/new.htm

The target is NGC 281, a/k/a the "Pac Man" nebula and Sharpless 2-184. I used a
Takahashi astrograph, f/3.3 and Starlight Xpress SXV-H9 camera. The filter was a
6 nm FWHM H-a. Most processing was done with ImagesPlus.  The false color was
added in Photoshop with Noel Carboni's actions. The Hubble employes false color,
so I don't feel like I cheated.

I recommend H-a imaging to everyone who is plagued by sky pollution. No longer
will you have to journey to a dark site to get good images.

Clear skies,

Dennis Persyk
Igloo (Now Roll-Off) Observatory Home Page http://dpersyk.home.att.net
Hampshire, IL

Hi Dave,
We are currently machining parts for the Mach1, but have not accepted orders
yet. Please sign up on the notification list if you would like one. I anticipate
that you will be able to order one for delivery in early 2010. Here is the link:
http://www.astro-physics.com/webdata/notify.htm



Clear Skies!

Marj Christen
Vice President
Astro-Physics, Inc
11250 Forest Hills Road
Machesney Park, IL 61115
Phone: 815-282-1513
Fax: 815-282-9847
www.astro-physics.com
Please include this e-mail with your response.



________________________________

From: ap-gto@yahoogroups.com [mailto:ap-gto@yahoogroups.com] On Behalf Of DavidD
Sent: Wednesday, November 11, 2009 9:44 AM
To: ap-gto@yahoogroups.com
Subject: [ap-gto] New newbie $20 Million question...




Good morning!

Is there any way to 'guess-timate', like within a 2 years accuracy window, about
how long is the wait for a Mach1Gto?

I had to ask :>)

Thanks

Destrehan Dave






[Non-text portions of this message have been removed]

Hi Joe,

Funny you should suggest the pulse option for the LED. In a staff
meeting this AM prior to reading your e-mail, we discussed adding that
to our keypad reticle brightness setting. We'll look into it.


Clear Skies!

Marj Christen
Vice President
Astro-Physics, Inc
11250 Forest Hills Road
Machesney Park, IL 61115
Phone: 815-282-1513
Fax: 815-282-9847
www.astro-physics.com
Please include this e-mail with your response.



________________________________

From: ap-gto@yahoogroups.com [mailto:ap-gto@yahoogroups.com] On Behalf
Of Joseph Zeglinski
Sent: Wednesday, November 11, 2009 8:59 AM
To: ap-gto@yahoogroups.com
Subject: [ap-gto] Re: polar scope LED illuminator repair




Hi Peter,

I thought about doing the same thing. Actually, it would have been nice
if the Recticle power port from the CPx controller could have a "pulse"
option.

However, I was thinking of attaching the Pulseguide to the Pasillx LED.
If you substitute a "Pulsing LED", you would lose the optional control
of
the on/off/steady settings on the Pulseguide illuminator. But, if you
remove
its LED, and connect wire to the LED pads, you get a controllable
Pulseguide
for your PAS.

Joe

----- Original Message -----
From: "pmlogg@... <mailto:pmlogg%40btinternet.com> "
<peter@... <mailto:peter%40pmlogg.plus.com> >
To: <ap-gto@yahoogroups.com <mailto:ap-gto%40yahoogroups.com> >
Sent: Wednesday, November 11, 2009 7:49 AM
Subject: [ap-gto] Re: polar scope LED illuminator repair

> Sorry to return to an old subject. The connector on my pasill2 is
> intemittant but the LED is OK. Is this the version that should unscrew
-
> mine seems pretty solidly attached? If I wanted to replace the LED,
e.g.
> by a flashing one to make it like a Pulseguide what diameter would I
need?
>
> Thanks
>
> Peter






[Non-text portions of this message have been removed]

In a message dated 11/11/2009 10:02:09 AM Central Standard Time,
destrehandave@... writes:


> Good morning!
>
> Is there any way to 'guess-timate', like within a 2 years accuracy window,
> about how long is the wait for a Mach1Gto?
>

I believe there is not much of a wait for the Mach1.

Rolando


[Non-text portions of this message have been removed]

Good morning!

Is there any way to 'guess-timate', like within a 2 years accuracy window, about
how long is the wait for a Mach1Gto?

I had to ask :>)

Thanks

Destrehan Dave

In a message dated 11/11/2009 7:20:56 AM Central Standard Time,
mgjr@... writes:


> I have attached magnetic prox switches like those used for home security.
> They are available in a normally closed contact configuration and with one
> double stick taped to the RA gear box and one on the DEC, the roof system
> won't close unless both axis are in the correct position.  You can set the
> position of the magnets at any desired position on the axis.
>

Great idea!

Rolando


[Non-text portions of this message have been removed]

Hi Peter,

     I thought about doing the same thing. Actually, it would have been nice
if the Recticle power port from the CPx controller could have a "pulse"
option.

     However, I was thinking of attaching the Pulseguide to the Pasillx LED.
If you substitute a "Pulsing LED", you would lose the optional control of
the on/off/steady settings on the Pulseguide illuminator. But, if you remove
its LED, and connect wire to the LED pads, you get a controllable Pulseguide
for your PAS.

Joe

----- Original Message -----
From: "pmlogg@..." <peter@...>
To: <ap-gto@yahoogroups.com>
Sent: Wednesday, November 11, 2009 7:49 AM
Subject: [ap-gto] Re: polar scope LED illuminator repair


> Sorry to return to an old subject. The connector on my pasill2 is
> intemittant but the LED is OK. Is this the version that should unscrew -
> mine seems pretty solidly attached?  If I wanted to replace the LED, e.g.
> by a flashing one to make it like a Pulseguide what diameter would I need?
>
> Thanks
>
> Peter

I have attached magnetic prox switches like those used for home security.
They are available in a normally closed contact configuration and with one
double stick taped to the RA gear box and one on the DEC, the roof system
won't close unless both axis are in the correct position.  You can set the
position of the magnets at any desired position on the axis.

Here is the RA:
  <http://www.galiyano.com/image2.htm> http://www.galiyano.com/image2.htm

and here is the DEC:
  <http://www.galiyano.com/image3.htm> http://www.galiyano.com/image3.htm

Clear Skies,
Mark

   _____

From: ap-gto@yahoogroups.com [mailto:ap-gto@yahoogroups.com] On Behalf Of
Joseph Zeglinski
Sent: Tuesday, November 10, 2009 4:51 PM
To: ap-gto@yahoogroups.com
Subject: Re: [ap-gto] Park sensor?




Continuing a bit further - put the level sensor (mercury switch), tilted
at the angle offset you require (e.g. 10 degrees), so that when the mount
is safely parked, the mercury switch in series completes the power circuit
(switch) that closes the roof. No program logic is required. You merely tell

your software to close the roof as usual, and the roof motor will only get
power if the mercury switch is in its required final OTA position.

The down side, is that if there is a hitch, the OTA will remain exposed
to the weather. Only way around that is a camera with a wide lens, connected

to your home internet site, that shows you it is indeed closed. Then again,
if it isn't, that may mean, alternate mount positioning commands, or an
unexpected trip to the remote site.

Good luck,
Joe

----- Original Message -----
From: <chris1011@aol. <mailto:chris1011%40aol.com> com>
To: <ap-gto@yahoogroups. <mailto:ap-gto%40yahoogroups.com> com>
Sent: Tuesday, November 10, 2009 4:33 PM
Subject: Re: [ap-gto] Park sensor?

> In a message dated 11/10/2009 3:19:48 PM Central Standard Time,
> jstratigos@mindspri <mailto:jstratigos%40mindspring.com> ng.com writes:
>
>
>> I have to park the mount about 10 degrees off of park 1 in order to close
>> the roof. I know the day will come when I would like to operate things
>> remotely and was considering mounting a couple of limit switches to sense

>> the
>> correct position. I have seen ultrasonic park sensors but it requires
>> too
>> much logic and software IMHO. Any suggestions welcome.
>
> Attach an old fashioned mercury switch to the axis so that when the scope
> is in the right place, the switch will open (or close) thus giving you a
> signal that you are parked.
>
> Rolando
>
>
> [Non-text portions of this message have been removed]
>
>
>
> ------------------------------------
>
> To UNSUBSCRIBE, or for general information on the ap-gto list
> see http://groups. <http://groups.yahoo.com/group/ap-gtoYahoo>
yahoo.com/group/ap-gtoYahoo! Groups Links
>
>
>
>






[Non-text portions of this message have been removed]

Sorry to return to an old subject. The connector on my pasill2 is intemittant
but the LED is OK. Is this the version that should unscrew - mine seems pretty
solidly attached?  If I wanted to replace the LED, e.g. by a flashing one to
make it like a Pulseguide what diameter would I need?

Thanks

Peter

--- In ap-gto@yahoogroups.com, "r1300rs" <cardiofuse@...> wrote:
>
> Louie:
>
> I had the same problem with my AP900 PASILL.  The red LED burned out.  You can
search
> here, but I just bought a 5 pack from Radio Shack ($3 US) and soldered to the
existing wire.
> You can unscrew the case holding the LED and remove.  Quite simple if you have
a small
> soldering gun.  It might be a nice skill to acquire anyway.  Losmandy will
charge you for an
> entire LED setup and is quite a rip given the cost of the parts......Let me
know if you need a
> part number.
>

I'm sorry but I cannot answer that. Everything I said before was from memory and
I do not recall anything more specific. If you tried to clean the reticle you
might have managed to get some solution covering part of the area where the
light hits the edge of the reticle.

--- In ap-gto@yahoogroups.com, Christopher Go <chris@...> wrote:
>
> Is there a black ink marking on it.  My problem
> with the reticle is that only part of the reticle
> markings are  illuminated. I tried to clean it with optical solution.
>
> Regards,
> Chris
>
> At 01:17 AM 11/11/2009 +0000, you wrote:
> >
> >
> >The reticle is etched into the surface of the glass.
> >
> >--- In
> ><mailto:ap-gto%40yahoogroups.com>ap-gto@yahoogroups.com,
> >Christopher Go <chris@> wrote:
> > >
> > >
> > > Thanks Rick,
> > >
> > > I was wondering, is the reticle on the surface or
> > > inside the glass. It seems that water might have seeped into the reticle.
> > >
> > > Thanks,
> > > Chris
> > >
> > > At 11:05 PM 11/10/2009, you wrote:
> > > >
> > > >
> > > >I would only go to all that trouble if you
> > > >cannot just wait until it dries out by itself.
> > > >The reticle is exposed a little on both sides if
> > > >the illuminating led is removed and the little
> > > >hole plug is left out. Some VERY gentle warming
> > > >of the body without complete disassembly with
> > > >the hairdrier might be enough to evaporate the water.
> > > >
> > > >Rick.
> > > >
> > > >--- In
> > > ><mailto:ap-gto%40yahoogroups.com>ap-gto@yahoogroups.com,
> > > >Christopher Go <chris@> wrote:
> > > > >
> > > > > Thanks for the info. Will try this.
> > > > >
> > > > > Chris
> > > > >
> > > > > At 02:55 PM 11/10/2009, you wrote:
> > > > > >
> > > > > >
> > > > > >Unthread the eyepiece from the tube. This will
> > > > > >expose one side of the reticle. Take apart the
> > > > > >AP adapter by unthreading the two pieces. One
> > > > > >end will slide off the eyepiece side and the
> > > > > >other will slide off teh objective end. One of
> > > > > >these two parts has a waffle spring will come
> > > > > >off as well. Once these parts are removed you
> > > > > >can unthread the skinny tube with the objective
> > > > > >end (it is on there pretty tight but will
> > > > > >unthread) from the body containing the reticle.
> > > > > >That exposes the other side of the reticle. Best
> > > > > >to just set it all aside once it is disassembled
> > > > > >to let it air dry. If you get dust or lint on
> > > > > >the reticle by attempting to dry it you will
> > > > > >have a heck of a time getting it off and the
> > > > > >reticle is NOT easy to remove without making a
> > > > > >special tool to unscrew the retaining ring.
> > > > > >
> > > > > >--- In
> > > > > ><mailto:ap-gto%40yahoogroups.com><mailto:ap-g
> > > >
> >
to%40yahoogroups.com><mailto:ap-gto%40yahoogroups.com>ap-gto@yahoogroups.com,
> > > > > >Christopher Go <chris@> wrote:
> > > > > > >
> > > > > > > Hi,
> > > > > > >
> > > > > > > I have a stupid problem. I left my PASILL out in the rain. When I
> > > > > > > dried it (with a hair drier), it seems that the reticle wouldn't
> > > > > > > fully illuminate anymore. Is there a way to fix this? Does this
> > > > > > > mean that there is water trapped in the reticle? Can I get a
> > > > > > > replacement reticle?
> > > > > > >
> > > > > > > Thanks,
> > > > > > > Chris
> > > > > > >
> > > > > > > Christopher and Vicky Go
> > > > > > > Christone Industries
> > > > > > > Manufacturer and Exporter of Quality Fossil
> > > > > > Stone and Wrought Iron Furniture
> > > > > > > Cebu, Philippines
> > > > > > >
> > > >
> >
<<<http://www.christone.net>http://www.christone.net>http://www.christone.net>ht\
tp://www.christone.net
> > > > > > > Astronomy:
> > > >
> >
<<<http://astro.christone.net>http://astro.christone.net>http://astro.christone.\
net>http://astro.christone.net
> > > > > > > Red Spot Jr:
> > > >
> >
<<<http://www.redspotjr.com>http://www.redspotjr.com>http://www.redspotjr.com>ht\
tp://www.redspotjr.com
> > > > > > >
> > > > > >
> > > > > >
> > > > >
> > > > > Christopher and Vicky Go
> > > > > Christone Industries
> > > > > Manufacturer and Exporter of Quality Fossil
> > > > Stone and Wrought Iron Furniture
> > > > > Cebu, Philippines
> > > > >
> > <<http://www.christone.net>http://www.christone.net>http://www.christone.net
> > > > > Astronomy:
> >
<<http://astro.christone.net>http://astro.christone.net>http://astro.christone.n\
et
> > > > > Red Spot Jr:
> > <<http://www.redspotjr.com>http://www.redspotjr.com>http://www.redspotjr.com
> > > > >
> > > > > [Non-text portions of this message have been removed]
> > > > >
> > > >
> > > >
> > >
> > > Christopher and Vicky Go
> > > Christone Industries
> > > Manufacturer and Exporter of Quality Fossil
> > Stone and Wrought Iron Furniture
> > > Cebu, Philippines
> > > <http://www.christone.net>http://www.christone.net
> > > Astronomy: <http://astro.christone.net>http://astro.christone.net
> > > Red Spot Jr: <http://www.redspotjr.com>http://www.redspotjr.com
> > >
> > > [Non-text portions of this message have been removed]
> > >
> >
> >
>
> Christopher and Vicky Go
> Christone Industries
> Manufacturer and Exporter of Furniture and Home Decor
> Cebu, Philippines
> http://www.christone.net
> astropage: http://astro.cstoneind.com
> HST Collaboration: http://www.redspotjr.com
>

Is there a black ink marking on it.  My problem
with the reticle is that only part of the reticle
markings are  illuminated. I tried to clean it with optical solution.

Regards,
Chris

At 01:17 AM 11/11/2009 +0000, you wrote:
>
>
>The reticle is etched into the surface of the glass.
>
>--- In
><mailto:ap-gto%40yahoogroups.com>ap-gto@yahoogroups.com,
>Christopher Go <chris@...> wrote:
> >
> >
> > Thanks Rick,
> >
> > I was wondering, is the reticle on the surface or
> > inside the glass. It seems that water might have seeped into the reticle.
> >
> > Thanks,
> > Chris
> >
> > At 11:05 PM 11/10/2009, you wrote:
> > >
> > >
> > >I would only go to all that trouble if you
> > >cannot just wait until it dries out by itself.
> > >The reticle is exposed a little on both sides if
> > >the illuminating led is removed and the little
> > >hole plug is left out. Some VERY gentle warming
> > >of the body without complete disassembly with
> > >the hairdrier might be enough to evaporate the water.
> > >
> > >Rick.
> > >
> > >--- In
> > ><mailto:ap-gto%40yahoogroups.com>ap-gto@yahoogroups.com,
> > >Christopher Go <chris@> wrote:
> > > >
> > > > Thanks for the info. Will try this.
> > > >
> > > > Chris
> > > >
> > > > At 02:55 PM 11/10/2009, you wrote:
> > > > >
> > > > >
> > > > >Unthread the eyepiece from the tube. This will
> > > > >expose one side of the reticle. Take apart the
> > > > >AP adapter by unthreading the two pieces. One
> > > > >end will slide off the eyepiece side and the
> > > > >other will slide off teh objective end. One of
> > > > >these two parts has a waffle spring will come
> > > > >off as well. Once these parts are removed you
> > > > >can unthread the skinny tube with the objective
> > > > >end (it is on there pretty tight but will
> > > > >unthread) from the body containing the reticle.
> > > > >That exposes the other side of the reticle. Best
> > > > >to just set it all aside once it is disassembled
> > > > >to let it air dry. If you get dust or lint on
> > > > >the reticle by attempting to dry it you will
> > > > >have a heck of a time getting it off and the
> > > > >reticle is NOT easy to remove without making a
> > > > >special tool to unscrew the retaining ring.
> > > > >
> > > > >--- In
> > > > ><mailto:ap-gto%40yahoogroups.com><mailto:ap-g
> > >
> to%40yahoogroups.com><mailto:ap-gto%40yahoogroups.com>ap-gto@yahoogroups.com,
> > > > >Christopher Go <chris@> wrote:
> > > > > >
> > > > > > Hi,
> > > > > >
> > > > > > I have a stupid problem. I left my PASILL out in the rain. When I
> > > > > > dried it (with a hair drier), it seems that the reticle wouldn't
> > > > > > fully illuminate anymore. Is there a way to fix this? Does this
> > > > > > mean that there is water trapped in the reticle? Can I get a
> > > > > > replacement reticle?
> > > > > >
> > > > > > Thanks,
> > > > > > Chris
> > > > > >
> > > > > > Christopher and Vicky Go
> > > > > > Christone Industries
> > > > > > Manufacturer and Exporter of Quality Fossil
> > > > > Stone and Wrought Iron Furniture
> > > > > > Cebu, Philippines
> > > > > >
> > >
>
<<<http://www.christone.net>http://www.christone.net>http://www.christone.net>ht\
tp://www.christone.net
> > > > > > Astronomy:
> > >
>
<<<http://astro.christone.net>http://astro.christone.net>http://astro.christone.\
net>http://astro.christone.net
> > > > > > Red Spot Jr:
> > >
>
<<<http://www.redspotjr.com>http://www.redspotjr.com>http://www.redspotjr.com>ht\
tp://www.redspotjr.com
> > > > > >
> > > > >
> > > > >
> > > >
> > > > Christopher and Vicky Go
> > > > Christone Industries
> > > > Manufacturer and Exporter of Quality Fossil
> > > Stone and Wrought Iron Furniture
> > > > Cebu, Philippines
> > > >
> <<http://www.christone.net>http://www.christone.net>http://www.christone.net
> > > > Astronomy:
>
<<http://astro.christone.net>http://astro.christone.net>http://astro.christone.n\
et
> > > > Red Spot Jr:
> <<http://www.redspotjr.com>http://www.redspotjr.com>http://www.redspotjr.com
> > > >
> > > > [Non-text portions of this message have been removed]
> > > >
> > >
> > >
> >
> > Christopher and Vicky Go
> > Christone Industries
> > Manufacturer and Exporter of Quality Fossil
> Stone and Wrought Iron Furniture
> > Cebu, Philippines
> > <http://www.christone.net>http://www.christone.net
> > Astronomy: <http://astro.christone.net>http://astro.christone.net
> > Red Spot Jr: <http://www.redspotjr.com>http://www.redspotjr.com
> >
> > [Non-text portions of this message have been removed]
> >
>
>

Christopher and Vicky Go
Christone Industries
Manufacturer and Exporter of Furniture and Home Decor
Cebu, Philippines
http://www.christone.net
astropage: http://astro.cstoneind.com
HST Collaboration: http://www.redspotjr.com

The reticle is etched into the surface of the glass.


--- In ap-gto@yahoogroups.com, Christopher Go <chris@...> wrote:
>
>
> Thanks Rick,
>
> I was wondering, is the reticle on the surface or
> inside the glass.  It seems that water might have seeped into the reticle.
>
> Thanks,
> Chris
>
> At 11:05 PM 11/10/2009, you wrote:
> >
> >
> >I would only go to all that trouble if you
> >cannot just wait until it dries out by itself.
> >The reticle is exposed a little on both sides if
> >the illuminating led is removed and the little
> >hole plug is left out. Some VERY gentle warming
> >of the body without complete disassembly with
> >the hairdrier might be enough to evaporate the water.
> >
> >Rick.
> >
> >--- In
> ><mailto:ap-gto%40yahoogroups.com>ap-gto@yahoogroups.com,
> >Christopher Go <chris@> wrote:
> > >
> > > Thanks for the info. Will try this.
> > >
> > > Chris
> > >
> > > At 02:55 PM 11/10/2009, you wrote:
> > > >
> > > >
> > > >Unthread the eyepiece from the tube. This will
> > > >expose one side of the reticle. Take apart the
> > > >AP adapter by unthreading the two pieces. One
> > > >end will slide off the eyepiece side and the
> > > >other will slide off teh objective end. One of
> > > >these two parts has a waffle spring will come
> > > >off as well. Once these parts are removed you
> > > >can unthread the skinny tube with the objective
> > > >end (it is on there pretty tight but will
> > > >unthread) from the body containing the reticle.
> > > >That exposes the other side of the reticle. Best
> > > >to just set it all aside once it is disassembled
> > > >to let it air dry. If you get dust or lint on
> > > >the reticle by attempting to dry it you will
> > > >have a heck of a time getting it off and the
> > > >reticle is NOT easy to remove without making a
> > > >special tool to unscrew the retaining ring.
> > > >
> > > >--- In
> > > ><mailto:ap-gto%40yahoogroups.com><mailto:ap-g
> > to%40yahoogroups.com>ap-gto@yahoogroups.com,
> > > >Christopher Go <chris@> wrote:
> > > > >
> > > > > Hi,
> > > > >
> > > > > I have a stupid problem. I left my PASILL out in the rain. When I
> > > > > dried it (with a hair drier), it seems that the reticle wouldn't
> > > > > fully illuminate anymore. Is there a way to fix this? Does this
> > > > > mean that there is water trapped in the reticle? Can I get a
> > > > > replacement reticle?
> > > > >
> > > > > Thanks,
> > > > > Chris
> > > > >
> > > > > Christopher and Vicky Go
> > > > > Christone Industries
> > > > > Manufacturer and Exporter of Quality Fossil
> > > > Stone and Wrought Iron Furniture
> > > > > Cebu, Philippines
> > > > >
> > <<http://www.christone.net>http://www.christone.net>http://www.christone.net
> > > > > Astronomy:
> >
<<http://astro.christone.net>http://astro.christone.net>http://astro.christone.n\
et
> > > > > Red Spot Jr:
> > <<http://www.redspotjr.com>http://www.redspotjr.com>http://www.redspotjr.com
> > > > >
> > > >
> > > >
> > >
> > > Christopher and Vicky Go
> > > Christone Industries
> > > Manufacturer and Exporter of Quality Fossil
> > Stone and Wrought Iron Furniture
> > > Cebu, Philippines
> > > <http://www.christone.net>http://www.christone.net
> > > Astronomy: <http://astro.christone.net>http://astro.christone.net
> > > Red Spot Jr: <http://www.redspotjr.com>http://www.redspotjr.com
> > >
> > > [Non-text portions of this message have been removed]
> > >
> >
> >
>
> Christopher and Vicky Go
> Christone Industries
> Manufacturer and Exporter of Quality Fossil Stone and Wrought Iron Furniture
> Cebu, Philippines
> http://www.christone.net
> Astronomy: http://astro.christone.net
> Red Spot Jr: http://www.redspotjr.com
>
> [Non-text portions of this message have been removed]
>

Thanks Rick,

I was wondering, is the reticle on the surface or
inside the glass.  It seems that water might have seeped into the reticle.

Thanks,
Chris

At 11:05 PM 11/10/2009, you wrote:
>
>
>I would only go to all that trouble if you
>cannot just wait until it dries out by itself.
>The reticle is exposed a little on both sides if
>the illuminating led is removed and the little
>hole plug is left out. Some VERY gentle warming
>of the body without complete disassembly with
>the hairdrier might be enough to evaporate the water.
>
>Rick.
>
>--- In
><mailto:ap-gto%40yahoogroups.com>ap-gto@yahoogroups.com,
>Christopher Go <chris@...> wrote:
> >
> > Thanks for the info. Will try this.
> >
> > Chris
> >
> > At 02:55 PM 11/10/2009, you wrote:
> > >
> > >
> > >Unthread the eyepiece from the tube. This will
> > >expose one side of the reticle. Take apart the
> > >AP adapter by unthreading the two pieces. One
> > >end will slide off the eyepiece side and the
> > >other will slide off teh objective end. One of
> > >these two parts has a waffle spring will come
> > >off as well. Once these parts are removed you
> > >can unthread the skinny tube with the objective
> > >end (it is on there pretty tight but will
> > >unthread) from the body containing the reticle.
> > >That exposes the other side of the reticle. Best
> > >to just set it all aside once it is disassembled
> > >to let it air dry. If you get dust or lint on
> > >the reticle by attempting to dry it you will
> > >have a heck of a time getting it off and the
> > >reticle is NOT easy to remove without making a
> > >special tool to unscrew the retaining ring.
> > >
> > >--- In
> > ><mailto:ap-gto%40yahoogroups.com><mailto:ap-g
> to%40yahoogroups.com>ap-gto@yahoogroups.com,
> > >Christopher Go <chris@> wrote:
> > > >
> > > > Hi,
> > > >
> > > > I have a stupid problem. I left my PASILL out in the rain. When I
> > > > dried it (with a hair drier), it seems that the reticle wouldn't
> > > > fully illuminate anymore. Is there a way to fix this? Does this
> > > > mean that there is water trapped in the reticle? Can I get a
> > > > replacement reticle?
> > > >
> > > > Thanks,
> > > > Chris
> > > >
> > > > Christopher and Vicky Go
> > > > Christone Industries
> > > > Manufacturer and Exporter of Quality Fossil
> > > Stone and Wrought Iron Furniture
> > > > Cebu, Philippines
> > > >
> <<http://www.christone.net>http://www.christone.net>http://www.christone.net
> > > > Astronomy:
>
<<http://astro.christone.net>http://astro.christone.net>http://astro.christone.n\
et
> > > > Red Spot Jr:
> <<http://www.redspotjr.com>http://www.redspotjr.com>http://www.redspotjr.com
> > > >
> > >
> > >
> >
> > Christopher and Vicky Go
> > Christone Industries
> > Manufacturer and Exporter of Quality Fossil
> Stone and Wrought Iron Furniture
> > Cebu, Philippines
> > <http://www.christone.net>http://www.christone.net
> > Astronomy: <http://astro.christone.net>http://astro.christone.net
> > Red Spot Jr: <http://www.redspotjr.com>http://www.redspotjr.com
> >
> > [Non-text portions of this message have been removed]
> >
>
>

Christopher and Vicky Go
Christone Industries
Manufacturer and Exporter of Quality Fossil Stone and Wrought Iron Furniture
Cebu, Philippines
http://www.christone.net
Astronomy: http://astro.christone.net
Red Spot Jr: http://www.redspotjr.com

[Non-text portions of this message have been removed]

I would only go to all that trouble if you cannot just wait until it dries out
by itself. The reticle is exposed a little on both sides if the illuminating led
is removed and the little hole plug is left out. Some VERY gentle warming of the
body without complete disassembly with the hairdrier might be enough to
evaporate the water.

Rick.


--- In ap-gto@yahoogroups.com, Christopher Go <chris@...> wrote:
>
> Thanks for the info.  Will try this.
>
> Chris
>
> At 02:55 PM 11/10/2009, you wrote:
> >
> >
> >Unthread the eyepiece from the tube. This will
> >expose one side of the reticle. Take apart the
> >AP adapter by unthreading the two pieces. One
> >end will slide off the eyepiece side and the
> >other will slide off teh objective end. One of
> >these two parts has a waffle spring will come
> >off as well. Once these parts are removed you
> >can unthread the skinny tube with the objective
> >end (it is on there pretty tight but will
> >unthread) from the body containing the reticle.
> >That exposes the other side of the reticle. Best
> >to just set it all aside once it is disassembled
> >to let it air dry. If you get dust or lint on
> >the reticle by attempting to dry it you will
> >have a heck of a time getting it off and the
> >reticle is NOT easy to remove without making a
> >special tool to unscrew the retaining ring.
> >
> >--- In
> ><mailto:ap-gto%40yahoogroups.com>ap-gto@yahoogroups.com,
> >Christopher Go <chris@> wrote:
> > >
> > > Hi,
> > >
> > > I have a stupid problem. I left my PASILL out in the rain. When I
> > > dried it (with a hair drier), it seems that the reticle wouldn't
> > > fully illuminate anymore. Is there a way to fix this? Does this
> > > mean that there is water trapped in the reticle? Can I get a
> > > replacement reticle?
> > >
> > > Thanks,
> > > Chris
> > >
> > > Christopher and Vicky Go
> > > Christone Industries
> > > Manufacturer and Exporter of Quality Fossil
> > Stone and Wrought Iron Furniture
> > > Cebu, Philippines
> > > <http://www.christone.net>http://www.christone.net
> > > Astronomy: <http://astro.christone.net>http://astro.christone.net
> > > Red Spot Jr: <http://www.redspotjr.com>http://www.redspotjr.com
> > >
> >
> >
>
> Christopher and Vicky Go
> Christone Industries
> Manufacturer and Exporter of Quality Fossil Stone and Wrought Iron Furniture
> Cebu, Philippines
> http://www.christone.net
> Astronomy: http://astro.christone.net
> Red Spot Jr: http://www.redspotjr.com
>
> [Non-text portions of this message have been removed]
>

Continuing a bit further - put the level sensor (mercury switch), tilted
at the angle offset you require (e.g. 10 degrees), so that when the mount
is safely parked, the mercury switch in series completes the power circuit
(switch) that closes the roof. No program logic is required. You merely tell
your software to close the roof as usual, and the roof motor will only get
power if the mercury switch is in its required final OTA position.

     The down side, is that if there is a hitch, the OTA will remain exposed
to the weather. Only way around that is a camera with a wide lens, connected
to your home internet site, that shows you it is indeed closed. Then again,
if it isn't, that may mean, alternate mount  positioning commands,  or an
unexpected trip to the remote site.

Good luck,
Joe

----- Original Message -----
From: <chris1011@...>
To: <ap-gto@yahoogroups.com>
Sent: Tuesday, November 10, 2009 4:33 PM
Subject: Re: [ap-gto] Park sensor?


> In a message dated 11/10/2009 3:19:48 PM Central Standard Time,
> jstratigos@... writes:
>
>
>> I have to park the mount about 10 degrees off of park 1 in order to close
>> the roof. I know the day will come when I would like to operate things
>> remotely and was considering mounting a couple of limit switches to sense
>> the
>> correct position.  I have seen ultrasonic park sensors but it requires
>> too
>> much logic and software IMHO.  Any suggestions welcome.
>
> Attach an old fashioned mercury switch to the axis so that when the scope
> is in the right place, the switch will open (or close) thus giving you a
> signal that you are parked.
>
> Rolando
>
>
> [Non-text portions of this message have been removed]
>
>
>
> ------------------------------------
>
> To UNSUBSCRIBE, or for general information on the ap-gto list
> see http://groups.yahoo.com/group/ap-gtoYahoo! Groups Links
>
>
>
>

In a message dated 11/10/2009 3:19:48 PM Central Standard Time,
jstratigos@... writes:


> I have to park the mount about 10 degrees off of park 1 in order to close
> the roof. I know the day will come when I would like to operate things
> remotely and was considering mounting a couple of limit switches to sense the
> correct position.  I have seen ultrasonic park sensors but it requires too
> much logic and software IMHO.  Any suggestions welcome.

Attach an old fashioned mercury switch to the axis so that when the scope
is in the right place, the switch will open (or close) thus giving you a
signal that you are parked.

Rolando


[Non-text portions of this message have been removed]

Thanks for the info.  Will try this.

Chris

At 02:55 PM 11/10/2009, you wrote:
>
>
>Unthread the eyepiece from the tube. This will
>expose one side of the reticle. Take apart the
>AP adapter by unthreading the two pieces. One
>end will slide off the eyepiece side and the
>other will slide off teh objective end. One of
>these two parts has a waffle spring will come
>off as well. Once these parts are removed you
>can unthread the skinny tube with the objective
>end (it is on there pretty tight but will
>unthread) from the body containing the reticle.
>That exposes the other side of the reticle. Best
>to just set it all aside once it is disassembled
>to let it air dry. If you get dust or lint on
>the reticle by attempting to dry it you will
>have a heck of a time getting it off and the
>reticle is NOT easy to remove without making a
>special tool to unscrew the retaining ring.
>
>--- In
><mailto:ap-gto%40yahoogroups.com>ap-gto@yahoogroups.com,
>Christopher Go <chris@...> wrote:
> >
> > Hi,
> >
> > I have a stupid problem. I left my PASILL out in the rain. When I
> > dried it (with a hair drier), it seems that the reticle wouldn't
> > fully illuminate anymore. Is there a way to fix this? Does this
> > mean that there is water trapped in the reticle? Can I get a
> > replacement reticle?
> >
> > Thanks,
> > Chris
> >
> > Christopher and Vicky Go
> > Christone Industries
> > Manufacturer and Exporter of Quality Fossil
> Stone and Wrought Iron Furniture
> > Cebu, Philippines
> > <http://www.christone.net>http://www.christone.net
> > Astronomy: <http://astro.christone.net>http://astro.christone.net
> > Red Spot Jr: <http://www.redspotjr.com>http://www.redspotjr.com
> >
>
>

Christopher and Vicky Go
Christone Industries
Manufacturer and Exporter of Quality Fossil Stone and Wrought Iron Furniture
Cebu, Philippines
http://www.christone.net
Astronomy: http://astro.christone.net
Red Spot Jr: http://www.redspotjr.com

[Non-text portions of this message have been removed]

Anyone tried to detect park position on an AP mount to prevent rolling roof
closure?

I have to park the mount about 10 degrees off of park 1 in order to close the
roof. I know the day will come when I would like to operate things remotely and
was considering mounting a couple of limit switches to sense the correct
position.  I have seen ultrasonic park sensors but it requires too much logic
and software IMHO.  Any suggestions welcome.

Jim Stratigos

www.dogstar-observatory.com

Oh, boy!  That is great news.  I surely hope when and if my name comes up the
circumstances are right.  Thanks Roland.
 
Chris



--- On Tue, 11/10/09, chris1011@... <chris1011@...> wrote:


From: chris1011@... <chris1011@...>
Subject: Re: [ap-gto] weight check
To: ap-gto@yahoogroups.com
Date: Tuesday, November 10, 2009, 10:59 AM


 



In a message dated 11/10/2009 9:21:29 AM Central Standard Time,
lineman_16735@ yahoo.com writes:

> Is the Honders within limits of the 900 then Roland?
>

Yes, it should work nicely on the 900.

Rolando

[Non-text portions of this message have been removed]











[Non-text portions of this message have been removed]

Sweet!



Stuart



To: ap-gto@yahoogroups.com
From: chris1011@...
Date: Tue, 10 Nov 2009 10:59:06 -0500
Subject: Re: [ap-gto] weight check





In a message dated 11/10/2009 9:21:29 AM Central Standard Time,
lineman_16735@... writes:

> Is the Honders within limits of the 900 then Roland?
>

Yes, it should work nicely on the 900.

Rolando

[Non-text portions of this message have been removed]






[Non-text portions of this message have been removed]

In a message dated 11/10/2009 9:21:29 AM Central Standard Time,
lineman_16735@... writes:


> Is the Honders within limits of the 900 then Roland?
>

Yes, it should work nicely on the 900.

Rolando


[Non-text portions of this message have been removed]

Is the Honders within limits of the 900 then Roland?
 
Chris



--- On Tue, 11/10/09, chris1011@... <chris1011@...> wrote:


From: chris1011@... <chris1011@...>
Subject: Re: [ap-gto] weight check
To: ap-gto@yahoogroups.com
Date: Tuesday, November 10, 2009, 9:59 AM


 



In a message dated 11/9/2009 8:38:49 PM Central Standard Time,
bpeterson@ltss. edu writes:

> I've had an AP900 for a couple of years. Now it's time to upgrade the
> scope, and I'm thinking about Hyperion's new astrograph. It weighs 60 pounds,
> plus I'll put on 5 or 10 pounds of camera and other stuff. That puts me
> right at the advertised weight limit for the AP900. I think I've heard before
> that AP is pretty conservative in listing the capacity of the mounts, but
> before I spend a bunch on a new scope, I thought I'd check. I'm going to be
> doing astrophotography with this at a fairly long focal length. Any reason
> the AP900 wouldn't be up to the task?
>

There is no reason that the 900 should not be able to carry this load. The
shorter the scope, the heavier the load can be.

Rolando

[Non-text portions of this message have been removed]











[Non-text portions of this message have been removed]

Thanks for the confirmation!

Brian

--- In ap-gto@yahoogroups.com, chris1011@... wrote:
>
> In a message dated 11/9/2009 8:38:49 PM Central Standard Time,
> bpeterson@... writes:
>
>
> > I've had an AP900 for a couple of years. Now it's time to upgrade the
> > scope, and I'm thinking about Hyperion's new astrograph. It weighs 60
pounds,
> > plus I'll put on 5 or 10 pounds of camera and other stuff. That puts me
> > right at the advertised weight limit for the AP900. I think I've heard
before
> > that AP is pretty conservative in listing the capacity of the mounts, but
> > before I spend a bunch on a new scope, I thought I'd check. I'm going to be
> > doing astrophotography with this at a fairly long focal length. Any reason
> > the AP900 wouldn't be up to the task?
> >
>
> There is no reason that the 900 should not be able to carry this load. The
> shorter the scope, the heavier the load can be.
>
> Rolando
>
>
> [Non-text portions of this message have been removed]
>

In a message dated 11/9/2009 8:38:49 PM Central Standard Time,
bpeterson@... writes:


> I've had an AP900 for a couple of years. Now it's time to upgrade the
> scope, and I'm thinking about Hyperion's new astrograph. It weighs 60 pounds,
> plus I'll put on 5 or 10 pounds of camera and other stuff. That puts me
> right at the advertised weight limit for the AP900. I think I've heard before
> that AP is pretty conservative in listing the capacity of the mounts, but
> before I spend a bunch on a new scope, I thought I'd check. I'm going to be
> doing astrophotography with this at a fairly long focal length. Any reason
> the AP900 wouldn't be up to the task?
>

There is no reason that the 900 should not be able to carry this load. The
shorter the scope, the heavier the load can be.

Rolando


[Non-text portions of this message have been removed]

Unthread the eyepiece from the tube. This will expose one side of the reticle.
Take apart the AP adapter by unthreading the two pieces. One end will slide off
the eyepiece side and the other will slide off teh objective end. One of these
two parts has a waffle spring will come off as well. Once these parts are
removed you can unthread the skinny tube with the objective end (it is on there
pretty tight but will unthread) from the body containing the reticle. That
exposes the other side of the reticle. Best to just set it all aside once it is
disassembled to let it air dry. If you get dust or lint on the reticle by
attempting to dry it you will have a heck of a time getting it off and the
reticle is NOT easy to remove without making a special tool to unscrew the
retaining ring.

--- In ap-gto@yahoogroups.com, Christopher Go <chris@...> wrote:
>
> Hi,
>
> I have a stupid problem.  I left my PASILL out in the rain.  When I
> dried it (with a hair drier), it seems that the reticle wouldn't
> fully illuminate anymore.  Is there a way to fix this?  Does this
> mean that there is water trapped in the reticle?  Can I get a
> replacement reticle?
>
> Thanks,
> Chris
>
> Christopher and Vicky Go
> Christone Industries
> Manufacturer and Exporter of Quality Fossil Stone and Wrought Iron Furniture
> Cebu, Philippines
> http://www.christone.net
> Astronomy: http://astro.christone.net
> Red Spot Jr: http://www.redspotjr.com
>

Hi,

I have a stupid problem.  I left my PASILL out in the rain.  When I
dried it (with a hair drier), it seems that the reticle wouldn't
fully illuminate anymore.  Is there a way to fix this?  Does this
mean that there is water trapped in the reticle?  Can I get a
replacement reticle?

Thanks,
Chris

Christopher and Vicky Go
Christone Industries
Manufacturer and Exporter of Quality Fossil Stone and Wrought Iron Furniture
Cebu, Philippines
http://www.christone.net
Astronomy: http://astro.christone.net
Red Spot Jr: http://www.redspotjr.com

I've had an AP900 for a couple of years. Now it's time to upgrade the scope, and
I'm thinking about Hyperion's new astrograph. It weighs 60 pounds, plus I'll put
on 5 or 10 pounds of camera and other stuff. That puts me right at the
advertised weight limit for the AP900. I think I've heard before that AP is
pretty conservative in listing the capacity of the mounts, but before I spend a
bunch on a new scope, I thought I'd check. I'm going to be doing
astrophotography with this at a fairly long focal length. Any reason the AP900
wouldn't be up to the task?

Hoping for encouraging words.
Thanks.

Brian
www.pbase.com/bkpeterson

Hi Ron,

I'm glad that Drew's answer solved this issue! (thanks Drew!)

-Ray

> Hi Ray - Drew was correct in that I had to rename the configuration and now
all is well. I was mistaken in thinking
that I could
> overwrite the old configuration changing the driver selection but not changing
the configuration name. Thanks for
following up and
> thanks again for the driver update.
>
> Ron
>
> --- In ap-gto@yahoogroups.com <mailto:ap-gto%40yahoogroups.com> , "Ray Gralak
\(Yahoo Groups\)" <yahoo@...> wrote:
> >
> > Hi Ron,
> >
> > I've been using v5.07 for testing and the new driver "sticks" for me
although I don't use Maxim's Save/Restore
> > Configurations. It sounds like this might be an issue in Maxim however if
you find out from their Tech Support that
the
> > driver is not doing something correctly please post back here.
> >
> > -Ray
> >
> > > -----Original Message-----
> > > From: ap-gto@yahoogroups.com <mailto:ap-gto%40yahoogroups.com> 
[mailto:ap-gto@yahoogroups.com <mailto:ap-
> gto%40yahoogroups.com> ] On Behalf Of raf_1948
> > > Sent: Monday, November 09, 2009 12:24 PM
> > > To: ap-gto@yahoogroups.com <mailto:ap-gto%40yahoogroups.com>
> > > Subject: [ap-gto] The New Astro-Physics ASCOM driver and MaxIm Dl
configurations
> > >
> > >
> > >
> > > I was updating my MaxIm V5.07 configurations to use the new APV2 driver
and ran into an issue. The driver change
will
> > not "stick"
> > > and the configurations will revert to the old AP driver upon restart or
the loading of a different configuration.
Has
> > anyone else found
> > > this to be the case?
> > >
> > > Thanks,
> > >
> > > Ron
> > >
> > >
> > >
> > >
> >
>
>
>
>