"Jack & Linda Mohney"  mohneyjl@...   wrote:

>Hi all. I have 4 small azalea bushes on the south side of my house
>beneath a flowering crab tree and behind some hosta plants. They
>receive sun with some shade during the day. My hardiness zone is 5,
>and I live between two cornfields in Michigan, so the winter wind
>can be cold & dry. I do cover them with a styrofoam protector in the
>winter. Also, as I was reading the FAQ's, I notice that if the
>leaves are slightly reddish in color, it means they are low in
>phosphorous and that will affect bloom--my have some reddish color
>and the leaves are somewhat dull, not shiny. Bottom line, they have
>never been great bloomers, but did not bloom at all this spring (I
>have had them for 7 years). Also, last I tested my soil (several
>years ago), the ph was around 6.5 - 7. So, any ideas what I'm doing
>wrong? I hate to dig them up as they are definitely still alive.
>Thanks so much!

Hi Linda,

First, the pH is rather high.  Do the leaves have yellowing between
dark green veins?  This is called chlorosis and is indicative of
malnutrition, usually caused by a pH that is too high.  pH can be
lowered by powdered sulfur, and magnesium, calcium, iron and
potassium will help restore the natural color.  Fortunately a product
called HollyTone contains these ingredients with a 4-6-4 fertilizer.
Do not use aluminum sulfate, it will eventually kill an azalea.

If the leaves are nice and green, then general fertility may be too
high.  Nitrogen rich soils tend to produce plants with nice green
leaves and no flowers.

You are in a rather cold climate.  Some varieties are not hardy
enough and the flower buds will die from the cold.  You may be
affected by this and get more flowers when there is less bud damage.

You should be able to look at the plants and see if they had any buds
that were frozen of if there just weren't any flower buds.  If there
aren't any flower buds, here are some steps you can take.

1) Don't prune after the end of spring.  Flower buds are being formed
in mid summer and late pruning will remove them.

2) Avoid nitrogen fertilizer and apply some potassium (muriate of
potash) and phosphates (super phosphate).  Just a little bit is all
you need.  Read the label.

3) Prune the crab apple tree back so that the azaleas get less summer
shade.  Azaleas need summer sun to form flower buds.

4) Water during dry periods. Do not mistake the normal wilting action
caused by extreme heat or cold as an indication of a problem. It is
normal and will go away when milder temperatures return. Desiccation
of the roots can be serious in cold or hot conditions. Only water
when necessary and in hot weather always err on the dry side, but
don't hesitate to water plants that look wilted in the morning. In
hot weather it is normal for rhododendrons to look slightly wilted in
the heat of the day, but if they look wilted in the morning, then
they are too dry. Watering may be needed in winter or summer .
--
Cheers, Steve Henning in Reading, PA   USA  Zone 6

Visit my Rhododendron and Azalea web pages at:
http://home.earthlink.net/~rhodyman/rhody.html

Also visit the Rhododendron and Azalea Bookstore at:
http://home.earthlink.net/~rhodyman/rhodybooks.html

Russell Hutchens of Norfork Arkansas wrote:

>I have rooted several hundred azalea cutting the last two years but
>I have had trouble forcing them into active growth in the present
>season and the next spring. Any replies are appreciated.

Hi, Russell

It sounds like you are raising deciduous azaleas.  That is a problems
with them.  Evergreen azaleas will usually even form roots in a
compost pile, well, almost.

I am not experienced in rooting deciduous azaleas, but the Azalea
Society of America has a good information sheet on this at:

http://www.azaleas.org/index.pl/azpropagate.html#cut

The last third of the section on cuttings deals specifically with
deciduous azaleas.  The trick is to keep them from going dormant.
This is done with heat and artificial light to extend the day length.
--
Cheers, Steve Henning in Reading, PA   USA  Zone 6

Visit my Rhododendron and Azalea web pages at:
http://home.earthlink.net/~rhodyman/rhody.html

Also visit the Rhododendron and Azalea Bookstore at:
http://home.earthlink.net/~rhodyman/rhodybooks.html

Nancy, I have done this a number of times, and the
azaleas regenerated well, forming a dense system of
new branches. The only time this did not work was with
one (of several) recently planted Fourth of July
azaleas (Rhododendron oldhami).  I dug the plant up
and found out it had been pot bound.
Mike Creel, Azalea Society member from South Carolina

--- Valerie.Green@... wrote:

> This is from the ASK US page, so please send me a CC
>
> We live in Silver Spring, MD. I believe our cold
> hearty zone is zone 7.
> Summers are hot and humid (June - Aug) and falls and
> springs are mild with
> mild winters and few very cold days. sometimes we
> get snow but it is not
> the norm.
>
> Our Azaleas grow in back of our house on top of a
> hill that is shaded by
> many trees. They were very large growing up high
> (about 6 feet) and very
> full on top--the lady that owned the house before us
> never did any
> pruning.
>
> Recently, my mom (without asking) sawed the azaleas
> down to the ground so
> there is only a stump sticking out that is less than
> a foot tall with 1 or
> 2 stumped branches. She used a saw and cut them at a
> small angle. Will
> they ever grow back and bloom again? Also, how long
> will it take for them
> to grow back? Thank you very much.
>
> Valerie
>
>
------------------------------------------------------------------------
This
> email is intended only for the person or entity to
> which
it is addressed and may contain information
> that is privileged,
confidential or otherwise
> protected from disclosure.
Dissemination,
> distribution or copying of this e-mail or the
>
information herein by anyone other than the
> intended recipient,
or an employee or agent
> responsible for delivering the message
to the
> intended recipient, is prohibited. If you have
> received
this e-mail in error or would like not to
> receive future
emails from Porter Novelli, please
> immediately notify us by
forwarding this email to PostMaster@....


__________________________________________________
Do You Yahoo!?
Tired of spam?  Yahoo! Mail has the best spam protection around
http://mail.yahoo.com

Valerie.Green wote:

>We live in Silver Spring, MD. I believe our cold hearty zone is zone 7.
>Summers are hot and humid (June - Aug) and falls and springs are mild with
>mild winters and few very cold days. sometimes we get snow but it is not
>the norm.
>Our Azaleas grow in back of our house on top of a hill that is shaded by
>many trees. They were very large growing up high (about 6 feet) and very
>full on top--the lady that owned the house before us never did any
>pruning.
>Recently, my mom (without asking) sawed the azaleas down to the ground so
>there is only a stump sticking out that is less than a foot tall with 1 or
>2 stumped branches. She used a saw and cut them at a small angle. Will
>they ever grow back and bloom again? Also, how long will it take for them
>to grow back? Thank you very much.

They will probably come back since they were big and healthy and well
established.  To help them along shade the new growth from the mid
day sun.   I would drive a couple stakes in the ground and stetch a
piece of burlap between them to create a sun shade on the south side.
It wouldn't hurt to leave it up this coming winter. There will be a
lot of new growth and it will be very tender.  Don't let the plant
dry out.  If the new growth is wilted in the morning, then water.  It
will always wilt in the heat of the day and that is normal, but it
shouldn't be wilted first thing in the morning.  They should come
back fairly quickly.  This will give you a chance to control how tall
they grow.  In a year or two when they start getting big, it is best
to prune the plants after they bloom and before summer so you won't
be pruning any flower buds.
--
Cheers, Steve Henning in Reading, PA   USA  Zone 6

Visit my Rhododendron and Azalea web pages at:
http://home.earthlink.net/~rhodyman/rhody.html

Also visit the Rhododendron and Azalea Bookstore at:
http://home.earthlink.net/~rhodyman/rhodybooks.html

Blooming for the first time on the north side of my neighbor's house is this P4m plant that lost part of its label. It was donated by Jeanie Beutler (that part of the label is intact) we thought it might be West's Superba which she has donated in the past. Does this look right? Relatively late.

Sally Perkins, Salem, NH

----- Original Message -----

From: Sally/John Perkins

To: azaleas@yahoogroups.com

Sent: Saturday, June 03, 2006 7:25 PM

Subject: [AZ] West's Superba (maybe)

 

Blooming for the first time on the north side of my neighbor's house is this P4m plant that lost part of its label. It was donated by Jeanie Beutler (that part of the label is intact) we thought it might be West's Superba which she has donated in the past. Does this look right? Relatively late.

Sally Perkins, Salem, NH

Are you rooting evergreen or deciduous azaleas? What
is your rooting process: timing, facilities, etc.?
How do you maintain your rooted cuttings over winter?
Does your media tend to stay on the wet site, rather
than drain well? Do you pinch out or remove the
terminal bud on the cuttings when you stick them?
When you stick your cuttings are they woody (brown
bark), just-matured (green bark and anap when broken)
or immature (soft, new green stems)? How much sunlight
do the rooted cuttings receive?

Without knowing any of the above facts I think that
you might need media (and containers) that drains
better, that you might try different timing; that you
might need to take cuttings earlier in the season
(such as dormant woody cuttings in late spring, before
ANY new growth appears), that you might need to try a
different (simpler) method of sticking cuttings,
and/or that you might need to remove the stem end or
terminal buds from your cuttings.

Mike Creel, Azalea Society member from South Carolina.

--- Rusell & Kathy Hutchens
<krzhutchens@...> wrote:

>  [this is from the ASK US page, so please send me a
> CC]
> Dear Azalea experts,
>
> I have rooted several hundred azalea cutting the
> last two years but I have had trouble forcing them
> into active growth in the present season and the
> next spring. Any replies are apreciated.
>
> Russell Hutchens
> Norfork Arkansas 72658
> krzhutchens@...
>
> zone 6b/7a
>


__________________________________________________
Do You Yahoo!?
Tired of spam?  Yahoo! Mail has the best spam protection around
http://mail.yahoo.com

"Linda Watkins" linnie81@...  wrote:

>I was given an azalea 2 years ago when my mother died. I called the
>florist and he said it would not grow and bloom again as it was florist
>quality. I still planted it outside and it has come back every year-but
>with no flowers. It is in a semi-shady area and has developed long leggy
>branches about 5 feet in length. My question is-will it ever bloom and
>do I need to prune it? If it never blooms-that's OK-it reminds me of my
>Mom, but I just wondered what care it needed. I live in Zone 5 in
>Colorado Springs.

It is leggy because it is in the shade.  However, if it wasn't in the
shade it probably would not make it, so I wouldn't move it.  Most
florist azaleas are tender.  You are luck it is still alive.  I would
not expect to ever see it bloom again.  I think the flower buds are
being frozen back each winter.  It was probably an evergreen azalea,
but it sound like it is deciduous for you. Many azaleas that are
"evergreen" do drop their leaves when the new ones come out each
spring.  If it is evergreen, it will put out a second flush of leaves
in summer.

You don't need to prune it, but you can if you desire to.  You can
remove up to 1/3 of the plant if you want to.  Since it doesn't
bloom, you can prune anytime.  If you do prune it, see if you can
root some cuttings.  Then raise them inside like a house plant to see
if they will bloom.  For information on taking evergreen azalea
cuttings visit:

http://www.azaleas.org/index.pl/azpropagate.html

--
Cheers, Steve Henning in Reading, PA   USA  Zone 6

Visit my Rhododendron and Azalea web pages at:
http://home.earthlink.net/~rhodyman/rhody.html

Also visit the Rhododendron and Azalea Bookstore at:
http://home.earthlink.net/~rhodyman/rhodybooks.html

-----Original Message-----
From: azaleas@yahoogroups.com [mailto:azaleas@yahoogroups.com]On Behalf Of Tom Schuetz
Sent: Saturday, June 03, 2006 8:21 PM
To: azaleas@yahoogroups.com
Subject: Re: [AZ] West's Superba (maybe)

It looks like the plant I have labeled "Superba". In my garden it bloomed (50 % open) on May 10.

 

Tom Schuetz
schuetz101@...
Mechanicsburg, PA   USDA Zone 6a

----- Original Message -----

From: Sally/John Perkins

To: azaleas@yahoogroups.com

Sent: Saturday, June 03, 2006 7:25 PM

Subject: [AZ] West's Superba (maybe)

 

Blooming for the first time on the north side of my neighbor's house is this P4m plant that lost part of its label. It was donated by Jeanie Beutler (that part of the label is intact) we thought it might be West's Superba which she has donated in the past. Does this look right? Relatively late.

Sally Perkins, Salem, NH

----- Original Message -----

From: Sally/John Perkins

To: azaleas@yahoogroups.com

Sent: Sunday, June 04, 2006 7:21 AM

Subject: RE: [AZ] West's Superba (maybe) and substance

Tom, Then I would tend to think its West's Superba too. I remember the label being found in the area but broken from the rest of the information. I also remember it blowing its flowers in a previous winter so since Superba is a hose and hose purple according to Galle, you probably have West's Superba, too.  I am shocked that it grows at all here, albeit slowly,  and the very mild winter was the only reason why we can make an id.

Thank you for the quick response. It is blooming at just 2-3 days before Holly's Late Pink, my favorite Schroeder. I remember seeing Holly's Late Pink coming into bloom at the convention in Bill Miller's garden (he denied that he bought it despite the Octarro Nursery tag)  so that is about right in time.

 

Feeling like we are floating away in Salem, NH. A 3 inch storm Thursday night in 2 hours took out most of the flowers, what a mess. Then add about 2-3 more inches thru Saturday, and the lake is at flood stage again. The new growth is going to look like a jungle. I am impressed with the flowers that are left behind in their substance and holding power. Yak x decorum, Aviva Ann and H. Anilin, my Canobie Canary and Ditch Dweller, Masada, Jonathan Shaw (but not Worjnar's Purple), Mist Maiden (but not Ken Janeck or Pink Parasol). The Lily-like thing is under enough pines to shelter it from some of the drenching downpours. One of the Lord Roberts x yak has heavy substance and so does a Vulcan x yak.

 

Sally Perkins

-----Original Message-----
From: azaleas@yahoogroups.com [mailto:azaleas@yahoogroups.com]On Behalf Of Tom Schuetz
Sent: Saturday, June 03, 2006 8:21 PM
To: azaleas@yahoogroups.com
Subject: Re: [AZ] West's Superba (maybe)

It looks like the plant I have labeled "Superba". In my garden it bloomed (50 % open) on May 10.

 

Tom Schuetz
schuetz101@...
Mechanicsburg, PA   USDA Zone 6a

----- Original Message -----

From: Sally/John Perkins

To: azaleas@yahoogroups.com

Sent: Saturday, June 03, 2006 7:25 PM

Subject: [AZ] West's Superba (maybe)

 

Blooming for the first time on the north side of my neighbor's house is this P4m plant that lost part of its label. It was donated by Jeanie Beutler (that part of the label is intact) we thought it might be West's Superba which she has donated in the past. Does this look right? Relatively late.

Sally Perkins, Salem, NH

I am not sure where you live, but I am in central
South Carolina and I have some beautiful plantings of
the evergreen Satsuki variety named Chinzan or
Chinsoy, which grows wide and gets around 3 feet tall.
  It seems to resist lacebugs and other problems and
would be beautiful year-round even if it never
bloomed, but it does have great late season (now)
salmon flowers. I can send photos.
Mike Creel, ASA member from South Carolina

--- Billy Graves <probass@...> wrote:

> This is from the ASK US page so send me a CC
> Is there an azalea that will grow on North side of
> house (front by walkway)that does not get any direct
> sun?  Also it will need to be of the large variety
> as it will be filling a space of about 4 ft by 5 ft.
>  Should I plant more than one in that space? thanks
> for your response.


__________________________________________________
Do You Yahoo!?
Tired of spam?  Yahoo! Mail has the best spam protection around
http://mail.yahoo.com

I agree with Mike. I have several, and they are great plants. They
may not bloom very heavily without any direct sun. You can see
pictures starting at
http://www.pbase.com/azaleasociety/image/17390133 and click "next"
for others.

Regards,
Bob Stelloh  Hendersonville NC  USDA Zonr 7

I am not sure where you live, but I am in central
South Carolina and I have some beautiful plantings of
the evergreen Satsuki variety named Chinzan or
Chinsoy, which grows wide and gets around 3 feet tall.
   It seems to resist lacebugs and other problems and
would be beautiful year-round even if it never
bloomed, but it does have great late season (now)
salmon flowers. I can send photos.
Mike Creel, ASA member from South Carolina

--- Billy Graves <probass@...> wrote:

>  This is from the ASK US page so send me a CC
>  Is there an azalea that will grow on North side of
>  house (front by walkway)that does not get any direct
>  sun?  Also it will need to be of the large variety
>  as it will be filling a space of about 4 ft by 5 ft.
>   Should I plant more than one in that space? thanks
>  for your response.


__________________________________________________
Do You Yahoo!?
Tired of spam?  Yahoo! Mail has the best spam protection around
http://mail.yahoo.com



When you reply to an email, PLEASE quote its relevant part(s) only,
as context, and DELETE the rest - especially this line and the Yahoo
lines.  And PLEASE tell us your city, state and/or USDA zone.

We welcome attached images RESIZED to be under 100KB in size - 640 x
480 pixel JPEG images at 50% or 1:40 compression are ideal. By
attaching them you agree that, without giving up your rights to them,
they may be shown on Azalea Society websites.

To unsubscribe, send an email to: azaleas-unsubscribe@yahoogroups.com


Yahoo! Groups Links

[ please send a CC of any reply to   dtees115 at aol.com  ]

Date: Mon, 05 Jun 2006 22:58:44 -0400 (EDT)
From: DTees115@...
Subject: Azaleas in full sun
To: webmaster@...
Delivered-to: webmaster@...
X-Spam-Flag: NO
Original-recipient: rfc822;bstelloh@...

Are there types of azaleas that will do will in sunny areas? I would
like some type of azalea that would compliment Purple Gem Rhodos.

http://www.roslynnursery.com/

Hi gang,
Below, links to images of several azaleas in bloom last weekend at Heritage,
Sandwich Mass.  There were no tags, and I am not able to identify any of the
plants.  Enoyed them nonetheless.
regards,
Jim Willhite
West Chester, PA

http://img.photobucket.com/albums/v643/james793/HERAZ-I-1.jpg
http://img.photobucket.com/albums/v643/james793/HERAZ-H-1.jpg
http://img.photobucket.com/albums/v643/james793/HERAZ-G-1.jpg
http://img.photobucket.com/albums/v643/james793/HERAZ-F-1.jpg
http://img.photobucket.com/albums/v643/james793/HERAZ-E-1.jpg
http://img.photobucket.com/albums/v643/james793/HERAZ-D-1.jpg
http://img.photobucket.com/albums/v643/james793/HERAZ-C-1.jpg
http://img.photobucket.com/albums/v643/james793/HERAZ-B-1.jpg
http://img.photobucket.com/albums/v643/james793/HERAZ-A-3.jpg

"Lynn Kenney" llmk66@...  wrote:

>   We live in North Atlanta suburbs.  Just bought a house where
>previous owners grew large azaleas in front yard but gave them one
>big flat top so it's like one enormous flat, tall bush.  It looks
>terrible. Should we transplant them to the back yard in early fall
>or should we cut them back and reshape them? Help!

If you let them go they will eventually reach a normal shape.  I
personally would let them gradually assume a more normal shape, but I
would do a little clipping some of the taller upright growths so that
it is somewhat uniform.

Azaleas are easy to move, but I prefer to leave well enough alone and
gradually work them into a more natural look.  This is one case where
I would be tempted to use HollyTone or other good azalea fertilizer
to help nature.  Don't use very much, usually half what is
recommended on the package is about right.

--
Cheers, Steve Henning in Reading, PA   USA  Zone 6

Visit my Rhododendron and Azalea web pages at:
http://home.earthlink.net/~rhodyman/rhody.html

Also visit the Rhododendron and Azalea Bookstore at:
http://home.earthlink.net/~rhodyman/rhodybooks.html

"Joyce Papes" j.papes@...  wrote:

>Hi!  Last summer I planted 9 "northern lights" azaleas at the edge of a
>large maple tree.  These were $5 /gallon plants from Home Depot.  One looked
>sickly last fall with tent webbing and didn't make it through the winter and
>has been replaced. 7 look ok so far and have bloomed.  The 9th one has green
>leaves, but they are wilting and the plant looks like it is dying, and I'm
>not sure what is wrong with it.  I live in Wisconsin, zone 5a. near the
>lake.  (Also, we did put down aluminum sulfate this spring.)  Do I need to
>treat one or all of these plants ?  If, so, with what?

Don't use any more aluminum sulfate.  It builds up in the soil and
will eventually kill rhododendrons and azaleas.  What you put on
probably didn't kill this plant unless there was also an excess of
aluminum in the soil already.  Aluminum sulfate can be used with many
plants but not rhododendrons and azaleas.

Wilting can be just a warning that a plant is in too dry a location
and needs water.  That is the case if you are lucky.  It can also
occur from disease if the plant is growing in a wet condition.

Plants wilt and die slowly when their roots become blocked. There are
two causes of this:
	 1.  Root strangulation. This is best prevented by proper root
pruning when planting. If the plant is not too far gone, it might be
rescued by digging and removing the soil. Then cutting any circling
roots that may be strangling other roots. The roots need to be opened
up. On larger plants, some of the top must be removed to compensate
for the weak state of the roots. Any time the roots are exposed, they
must be kept moistened. Roots that dry out will die.
	 2.  Phytophthora crown rot or wilt. This root rot is the
major killer of rhododendrons and azaleas. It develops when roots are
growing in wet conditions. The rot is more prevalent in warm summer
conditions. Plants infected with crown rot caused by the fungi
Phytophthora have roots which become clogged with brown fungi
internally. The roots get blocked and the plant wilts and dies. There
is not much of any cure for crown rot. Some varieties of
rhododendrons are vulnerable (Chionoides, Catawbiense Album, Nova
Zembla) and some are resistant (Roseum Elegans, Scintillation, PJM).
Sphagnum moss and bark dust combined with good drainage seem to
prevent crown rot, but do not cure it.

Wilt and slow death can also be caused by juglone poisoning from
walnuts.  The roots of Black Walnut (Juglans nigra L.) and Butternut
(Juglans cinerea L.) produce a substance known as juglone
(5-hydroxy-alphanapthaquinone). Persian (English or Carpathian)
walnut trees are sometimes grafted onto black walnut rootstocks. Many
plants such as tomato, potato, blackberry, blueberry, azalea,
mountain laurel, rhododendron, red pine and apple may be injured or
killed within one to two months of growth within the root zone of
these trees. The toxic zone from a mature tree occurs on average in a
50 to 60 foot radius from the trunk, but can be up to 80 feet. The
area affected extends outward each year as a tree enlarges. Young
trees two to eight feet high can have a root diameter twice the
height of the top of the tree, with susceptible plants dead within
the root zone and dying at the margins. The juglone toxin occurs in
the leaves, bark and wood of walnut, but these contain lower
concentrations than in the roots. Juglone is poorly soluble in water
and does not move very far in the soil.

If your soil is not acidic enough, powdered sulfur is what you need
to acidify the soil.  For a fertilizer, HollyTone or other similar
high quality fertilizer, but fertilization is seldom necessary.

--
Cheers, Steve Henning in Reading, PA   USA  Zone 6

Visit my Rhododendron and Azalea web pages at:
http://home.earthlink.net/~rhodyman/rhody.html

Also visit the Rhododendron and Azalea Bookstore at:
http://home.earthlink.net/~rhodyman/rhodybooks.html

"Kristy Evans" kristye@...  wrote:

>I have spanish moss growing on and consuming my azalea.  How do you
>get rid of it.  It is attached to the branches.

Spanish Moss is not a moss, but is in the bromeliad family.  Spanish
Moss (Tillandsia usneoides) is a burden to the host plant due to its
weight, but not due to its appetite.  Spanish moss is an epiphyte
(air plant), which absorbs nutrients (especially calcium) and water
from the air and rainfall. It is not a parasite like mistletoe. It
can grow so thickly on tree limbs that it gives a somewhat "gothic"
appearance to the landscape, but it rarely harms the trees, except
for the extra wind resistance in hurricanes.

Ball moss, Spanish moss, lichens and mistletoe are commonly found
growing on shade trees in Texas. Of these, only mistletoe is
classified as a parasitic plant on ornamental shade trees. Lichens,
ball moss, and Spanish moss, although found on trees, are not feeding
on the tree, but only using the tree for support.

Contrary to popular belief, Spanish moss causes little to no
detrimental effect on a host plant. It may appear to have roots
growing within the host plant, but it is an epiphyte. Epiphytes grow
on other plants without taking any water or nutrients from them, and
use the host plant for support and protection.

Increasing the azalea's vigor by proper watering and fertilization is
one way to restrict the growth of Spanish moss.  According to Clemson
University Extension, there are no chemical treatments available for
its control. This small native plant should be appreciated as a part
of our natural heritage and not blamed as the cause of other plants'
problems.
--
Cheers, Steve Henning in Reading, PA   USA  Zone 6

Visit my Rhododendron and Azalea web pages at:
http://home.earthlink.net/~rhodyman/rhody.html

Also visit the Rhododendron and Azalea Bookstore at:
http://home.earthlink.net/~rhodyman/rhodybooks.html

Dear Sir/Madame:

Someone advised me to plant a blue azalea and I don't know where to find them. 
I live in Southern California. Would you know where to go to find them?

Sincerely,

Katherine Zalin

--
_______________________________________________

Search for businesses by name, location, or phone number.  -Lycos Yellow Pages

http://r.lycos.com/r/yp_emailfooter/http://yellowpages.lycos.com/default.asp?SRC\
=lycos10

[ this is from the ASK US page, so please send me a CC ]

Dear azalea enthusiasts,

I visited my Uncle in southern West Virginia recently and he had this
beautiful plant on his farm.  He does not know what it is.  I'd like
to know if it is a variety of an azalea.  Well, I actually would
simply like to know what kind of plant this is.  I live in Missouri
and would like to plant it here.

Thanks

heathergoble@...

IMG_1705.JPG

IMG_1704.JPG

What your uncle is growing is a Wiegelia, or is it,
weigelia, NOT an azalea. It is beautiful and roots
readily
Mike Creel, ASA member from South Carolina

--- Heather Goble <heathergoble@...> wrote:

> [ this is from the ASK US page, so please send me a
> CC ]
>
> Dear azalea enthusiasts,
>
> I visited my Uncle in southern West Virginia
> recently and he had this
> beautiful plant on his farm.  He does not know what
> it is.  I'd like
> to know if it is a variety of an azalea.  Well, I
> actually would
> simply like to know what kind of plant this is.  I
> live in Missouri
> and would like to plant it here.
>
> Thanks
>
> heathergoble@...
>
>
> >
> IMG_1705.JPG
>
>
> >
> IMG_1704.JPG
>
>
>


__________________________________________________
Do You Yahoo!?
Tired of spam?  Yahoo! Mail has the best spam protection around
http://mail.yahoo.com

[ please send a CC of any reply to   tswa2 at comcast.net  ]

Date: Thu, 08 Jun 2006 03:45:36 +0000
From: tswa2@...
Subject: Looking for an azalea
To: webmaster@...
Delivered-to: webmaster@...
X-Authenticated-Sender: dHN3YTJAY29tY2FzdC5uZXQ=
Original-recipient: rfc822;bstelloh@...

Content-Type: text/html; charset=iso-8859-1
Content-Transfer-Encoding: 7bit
X-Mime-Autoconverted: from 8bit to 7bit by courier 0.47

Hi---
I am trying to locate and azalea or rodedondron that has green leaves
in spring and summer but then turns to a wine color in the fall.  It
has like purple flowers in the spring.  I had tow in statregic
locations in my garden and one died.
Help!
Tina S. Walther