Hullo Ronald et al:

You did not state what film you were using or the exposure setting. Slow speed
films (32-64 ISO) require shorter processing times because the emulsion is
thinner and therefore requires less developer activity. The time increases when
faster films (thicker emulsions) are used.

When using a developer for the first time, process a short length of film in
full strength developer at the manufacturer's recommended time and temperature.
Ilford provide a simple chart to calculate time and temperature above and below
the recommended combination at 20C. and the recommended speed settings (ISO) for
each category of emulsion (slow, medium & fast).

Careful assessment of negatives from this initial test will enable you to
competently adjust film speed and processing time to suit your camera and
exposure techique and your processing methods. These vary from one person and
set of equipment to another.

After becoming proficient in using full-strength developer, the photographer can
then experiment and perfect the use of dilutions, processing times and
variations in film speed settings to suit subjects.

Always remember that there is NO single combination to suit every situation. If
this is what you want, then use auto digital, not wet film processing. The
former delivers wonderful images, the latter is an art form which for 150 years
has been producing fantastic results. Some people use both methods suit their
particular needs.

Temperature Control: Try to process films with solutions in the temperature
range of about 18 to 23C. Bringing cold solutions up to 20C. is quite easy by
placing containers with the required amount of developer and fixer in a bowl of
warm water.

During hot weather, running tap water usually doesn't get above about 23C.. If
solutions are appreciably higher, place them in a refrigerator for a few
minutes. Let the temperature drop to about 18-19C.; it will rise a degree or two
during development (the crtical temperature) and should be "about correct" when
averaged over 10 minutes. The fixer temperature is not critical, but shouldn't
be below about 16C. or 5C. different from the developer temperature as this may
cause a visible change in grain sharpness.

Always use distilled water when mixing developers. Full strength developers in
well-filled bottles usually have a shelf life of between 1 to 3 months and
should be run through a paper filter or well-laundered handkerchief before use.
Full-strength stored developers should only be diluted immediately fore use.

Film development is a strict but simple scientific process if the best results
are desired. Treat it as such, whether you are processing in a well-equipped
darkroom or on the kitchen sink. I have used both locations on frequent
occasions with equal success (and some failures through not sticking to the
rules!)

Raymond






during ----- Original Message -----
From: Ronald Jore
Sent: Monday, March 17, 2008 4:35 AM


It seems a few things still need adjusting...

For the record:
All processing done in Microphen 1+3 at 30 deg C - not much I could do
about the temperature as it was hot and I didn't bring ice cubes...

I processed the first sheet (shot with filter) for 3 minutes,
equivalent to 10 minutes at 20 degrees.
There was hardly anything to see - only the highlights showed at all.

Then I did the third sheet, which was also shot with filter, for 6
minutes (20min@20degC), which gave a very light negative - I'd say too
light as the shadows are practically transparent with hardly any detail.

So then I tried the second sheet, the one overexposed without filter,
and used 2.5 minutes (8.5min@20degC) for that, which resulted in a
negative that's on the light side but shows good detail and looks
rather printable, if a bit soft.

Overall it seems that 1 ISO might be a bit optimistic and indeed I now
recall that the guy on flickr I referred to earlier said he used 0.75
ISO. (Darn, that's -6 DIN!) And that's while push-processing his film
by a stop. So I guess next thing I'll try something like 0.75 ISO and,
say, 20 minutes (at 20 deg C) in Microphen 1+1. For starters, then
take it from there.
Any other suggestions, anyone?

Cheers,

Ronald






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