I just started using Cokin, and have been using
th e corner store one hour developing for test
rolls. Normally I'd take my developing to a more
controlled lab.<br><br>However, I just tell them to "print
as is", no compensation, and it's fine. This way I
can run off a roll, using different filters, and get
imeddiate feedback about what the difference is.
On the envelope under special directions I write. "Color cast is intentional,
Filters used correct for denisity only please"<br>Most times they come back ok.
And it makes the operators job easier.
I usually drop my film off at Sams Club to have
pictures developed. If I use graduated filters, will the
photo processor try to compensate and correct the
picture and undo the effects of the filter? If I state on
the package that filters were used, will this be ok?
If anyone has had any experience with this, please
let me know if I would need to take my pictures
someplace else to get developed if I am using filters.
Thank you!
Thanks a bushel Jerry! Your just a wealth of
knowledge :o) It's so nice to post a question and get an
answer. So many of the other sites just ignore the
question or make you feel really STUPID when they do
answer. I do E-6 processing so I may start there, if I
can't get the prof. talked into doing it. I get to sign
up for my b&w developing class tonight. It starts in
January I am so excited I can't wait. <br><br>Just
wishing my life away....<br>Tanya
Hi Tanya!<br><br>The chemicals for processing IR
are no different than any other B/W IF you're talking
about using
that.<br><br><a href=http://INFRARED.HOMESTEAD.COM/
target=new>http://INFRARED.HOMESTEAD.COM/</a><br><br>Follow the links on that
guy's page, his name is Rolland
Elliot. He sells Kodak HIE for less than any store I've
seen. I've used his Colour IR and it's great!<br><br>As
to the chemistry, Kodak D-76, Kodak Fixer, Indicator
Stop bath and a whetting agent shouldn't cost too
much.<br><br>I can e mail you the tech sheet for either of
Kodak's IR films for specifics if you want. <br><br>If
you're talking about Colour IR, go to ebay and put in
Infrared in the search. Rolland Elliot's name should pop
up with a stockpile of EIR film for sale-he sells it
for half the price stores do. I've used it and it's
good (also get at least 40 frames off a roll since he
loads it himself)<br><br>If you're using EIR film, you
get the best results with E-6 processing which I
don't do<br>and Rolland sells the new EIR film which is
compatable with regular C-41 processing. I've not seen it
done this way but i've been told it works, just don't
get the deep, saturated colours you do with E-6
procesing. <br><br>Let us know how you make out.
<br><br>Jerry
I've been using a little bag that came with
Oakley sunglasses and it works great. You can buy the
bags separately at Sunglasses hut or whatever it's
called. Take a deep breath, puff on the filter than
gently wipe it with the bag. <br><br>The only filter
this hasn't worked well on is a Hoya IR filter that I
got sunblock lotion on...there's still an oily smudge
on it and I'm afraid to wash the
filter.<br><br>Jerry
I am trying (desperately) to talk my photography
professor into doing a 2 Saturday, infrared class. He told
me if I could come up with a place to buy film
(cheapest) and the chemicals he would THINK about it. I
found some film at freestyle and at porters. I thought
some of you infrared buffs could tell me the cheapest
and best place to purchase the film and the
developing chemicals.<br>Thanks a bushel,<br>Tanya
Linear polarizers are for almost all manual SLR's
as long as your prism doesn't split the light. I
don't think there were any prisms that did that back in
the early 70's. Besides, I don't think Circulars
weren't even invented by 1970.<br><br>Circulars are for
SLR's with a split prism (early to mid 80's, like the
Canon New F-1 for instance) and for all autofocus
types.<br><br>What is the difference between a linear and a circular
polarizer?<br>The main points are:<br><br>If you use a standard
linear polarizer with cameras that use auto-focus and/or
auto-exposure, you may have problems. This filter may also cause
trouble with manual cameras, if you're using TTL light
measurement. A little dependent on the camera, your meter
might go crazy. (It is not said you will get problems,
only that you might get them.) <br>A circular
polarizer can be used on all cameras, and will work the
same as a linear polarizer with respect to darkening
the sky, eliminating glare, et cetera - circular
polarizers are just more expensive. <br>A circular polarizer
is just a linear polarizer followed by a
quarter-wave plate set at 45 degrees to the axis of
polarization.<br><br>A quarter-wave plate is made of a material in which
light polarized in one particular direction travels
more slowly than light polarized in the perpendicular
direction. A quarter-wave plate is just thick enough that
after passing through it, light polarized in one
direction is delayed 90 degrees (or one-quarter wavelength)
relative to light polarized in the other direction.
Can a linear polarizer be used with an autofocus
camera in manual mode? [I mainly use mine in manual
focus mode for landscapes ]<br><br>The cameras manual
says linear polarizer is not suitable. I wonde why?
Can anyone enlighten me please.<br><br>gremlintg
Jerry and Jim are right. Do not file those bumps
down. I have had only one holder I had to lightly sand
the bumps on to have the filters fit. You are not the
only one to have this problem. If you have scrached
any filter you may try too polish it with WHITE
toothpaste. (not Gel or a whiteing toothpaste with like
bakeing soda. it will scratch it up even more)It takes a
lot of rubbing to mahe the filter warm and it will
smoth out the scratch not remove it 100%. But hey my
scratched all to hell P121 is better optical quailty than
the Singray Hard .8 ND filter I have also
It's one of my favorite weekends, the Camera Fair
here in San Jose. There's a guy who sells used Cokins
real cheap ($2 and up) and most are in great shape.
I've just finished my wants list. Which is how I found
this club again by going to the other Jim's great web
site.<br><br>Jim M
Super to find you guys again. This was the first
site I checked when I got on the computer. I posted
something about eBay, came back a few days later and the
club was gone.<br><br>Anyway, don't file those bumps
down. It keeps the rotating filters in place
(polarizers/ stars). If you file the bumps, when you rotate
these filters with your thumb you'll probably push it
out of the holder. It is kind of crazy the way you
have to slide them in and out. Maybe the P system
being larger is easier.<br><br>Jim M
I think the bumps on the holder are to hold the
filter securely in place, if you want to place a grad
filter at a certain point in your frame, I think the
bumps hold it there so there's no slippage. Correct me
if I'm wrong Jim?!<br><br>I use the P system so I'm
not sure of the A polarizer but it should be circular
and fit neatly into the narrow rear slot of the
holder. <br><br>I'd not file off the bumps, I'd think the
filters would slip out of the holder without them.
<br><br>Jerry
I just started using Cokin filters [A size] last
week. I can't figure out why the holder is designed the
way it is, with two protruding bumps. The first
filter I put in got a light scratch, because I was
pressing down as I inserted it. <br><br>Now I have a
polarizer, which seems to have to be bent as it's inserted
in the rearmost slot, to avoid contact with the
"bump". This is going to be hard to do standing outside
with gloves on.<br><br>I'm considering filing off
these annoyances, what am I doing wrong?
Should I buy the 50mm macro lens that I have been
wanting for months? I have the money, but now I can't
decide. I already have a 20-50mm, 35-80mm, 80-200mm
macro. I am trying to justify it in my mind. I love
macro photography, but I also have the close-up lens
that I use on my 35-80 although its a little
agravating at times, it does work. So does that make the 50
macro a waste of money? OH DECISIONS, DECISIONS! PLEASE
HELP!<br>Tanya
Good question Jerry. I had the very same filter
Dreams 2 (#092).I never could get the cool halos like in
the Cokin book. If I still had a Dreams 2 (#092) I
would try some back light shots to see if this will
make the "Halos".
Ok, I keep trying and don't seem to get anywhere
with this filter. <br><br>Can someone please give me
some advice on the Dreams 2 (#092) filter? Is it best
placed far away from the lens? I don't stop down a lot,
f/4 is genenrally the smallest I go with this one and
I still get a sharp picture.<br><br>What am I doing
wrong?<br><br>Thanks in advance,<br><br>Jerry
Hi Sharon,<br><br>Glad to be of help and that you
got the filter you needed. Adorama is a great
place!<br><br>Went out & shot some fall colours today. Photos came
out ok but not as nice as I had hoped. Will scan some
up and post them here soon.<br><br>Hope you stick
around! With Jim at the helm here, we're hoping to make
this a great place to learn and share.<br><br>Jerry
Thank you so much Jerry! I ordered it through
adorama and am able to get it as quick as overnight. I
only have a short time left to capture the fall colors
and was really hoping to use this particular filter.
Great Club, btw.<br><br>Sharon
Hi,<br><br>Have you tried www.adorama.com? I've
found them to be the best for price and selection. Give
them a shot. if they don't have it (highly unlikely),
you can also try B&H photo although I don't have the
url off hand. <br><br>Let us know how you do
there.<br><br>Jerry
Do any of you know where I can get a Cokin P series #173 Varicolor Blue/Yellow
filter quick? Amazon.com has it, but it will take a few weeks.<br><br>Thanks!
:-)
I do not know what happend to the last Cokin
filter club. I was not the founder of it. It was
starting to get several members and the board was comming
to life there a bit. I will start to upload photos
soon and hope we can grow.<br><br>Jim....