Hi all,my name is alvaro fogassa, I've started building the almost
impossible homemade 3d printer about a year a go, on my spare time.
   I've the comcept working nice on this days, I think the most
important thing to do this project is the software to slice and print
the cad data.
  A friend of mine Paulo worked on the software, so looks like the
First homemade 3d printer that really works was developed in Brazil.
  You're welcome to share your experience with the group.
I'll keep on improving the printer as time goes by.

Thank you.
Fogassa.

I would like to welcome you to the DIY 3D Printer Group List from
which we can explore the details of creating 3D Printers and
fabricators from scratch. Whether you aspire to create a
self-replicating RepRap, build a Fab@Home machine, or an inkjet based
3D printer post your builds, ask your questions, and share your
knowledge and design with a like minded community.

Now, a little about the list owner. My name is Joseph Mahaney and I
have a diverse background in physics, rocketry, manufacturing and
project management; a jack-of-all-trades if you will. Like you, 3D
printing and fabrication have been a fascination of mine for sometime.
I have been lurking in the shadows and once several accomplishments
were made in the DIY 3D Printing/Fab world I decided that the time was
right to begin consolidate various information in one place and begin
a focused discussion so as disseminate those ideas to others. If you
have ideas on how to expand the dissemination of information beyond
this group please feel free to drop me a line off list at the e-mail
list above. I expect that things will change on a daily basis as the
discussion picks up the pace. I would like to consider those
interested and those doing as a community.

List Owner and Moderator

Alvaro,

Once again I would like to congratulate you on your success! Thank you
for posting first on this list to start off the discussion.

Now...

- Could you provide a detailed description of the photographs you have
supplied in the file section?

- Could you describe the build of your printer?

- What sorts of electronics and control does the printer have?

- How does the software work and interact with the hardware? Is Paulo
a member of the group?

Just a few questions to start off the discussion...

Joseph

--- In diy_3d_printing@yahoogroups.com, "afogassa" <afogassa@...> wrote:
>
>   Hi all,my name is alvaro fogassa, I've started building the almost
> impossible homemade 3d printer about a year a go, on my spare time.
>   I've the comcept working nice on this days, I think the most
> important thing to do this project is the software to slice and print
> the cad data.
>  A friend of mine Paulo worked on the software, so looks like the
> First homemade 3d printer that really works was developed in Brazil.
>  You're welcome to share your experience with the group.
> I'll keep on improving the printer as time goes by.
>
> Thank you.
> Fogassa.
>

Looks like you are using Rhino to create the models and outputting stl
files. What are you using to slice the model for printing?

--- In diy_3d_printing@yahoogroups.com, "dmkelleyhsd" <dkelley@...>
wrote:
>
> Looks like you are using Rhino to create the models and outputting
stl
> files. What are you using to slice the model for printing?
>

  It's a custom made software. My friend made it.He says he will be
joining the group and post the software up for download.

Doesn't Vectrix Cut3d also slice stl file and produce G code>
Which is what I will ask in another post.

--- In diy_3d_printing@yahoogroups.com, "afogassa" <afogassa@...> wrote:
>
> --- In diy_3d_printing@yahoogroups.com, "dmkelleyhsd" <dkelley@>
> wrote:
> >
> > Looks like you are using Rhino to create the models and outputting
> stl
> > files. What are you using to slice the model for printing?
> >
>
>  It's a custom made software. My friend made it.He says he will be
> joining the group and post the software up for download.
>

It seems like it would be so mych easier if we could use G code to
run the printer XYZ movement  but not sure how we would do the print
head unless we had huge files.
Any thoughts?

dan

--- In diy_3d_printing@yahoogroups.com, "danmauch" <dmauch@...> wrote:
>
>   It seems like it would be so mych easier if we could use G code to
> run the printer XYZ movement  but not sure how we would do the print
> head unless we had huge files.
> Any thoughts?
>
> dan
>

I thought HPGL, basically was G-code?  Aren't most printers run using X-
Y coordinates?
All this brings up the idea, why use, and try to hack an old printer
and it's firmware?  Couldn't we just build a basic X-Y-Z CNC machine,
and write or rewrite the software for the slice printing.

Tom

I've posted a explanation on how it works at my folder.

--- In diy_3d_printing@yahoogroups.com, "Thomas Schulko"
<alpha2@...> wrote:
>
> --- In diy_3d_printing@yahoogroups.com, "danmauch" <dmauch@> wrote:
> >
> >   It seems like it would be so mych easier if we could use G
code to
> > run the printer XYZ movement  but not sure how we would do the
print
> > head unless we had huge files.
> > Any thoughts?
> >
> > dan
> >
>
> I thought HPGL, basically was G-code?  Aren't most printers run
using X-
> Y coordinates?
> All this brings up the idea, why use, and try to hack an old
printer
> and it's firmware?  Couldn't we just build a basic X-Y-Z CNC
machine,
> and write or rewrite the software for the slice printing.
>
> Tom
>

  I think raster and many holes on the print head is faster when
printing.
  Otherwise you end up with a slow printing process like RAPREP, or
FAB@HOME.

From: "Thomas Schulko" <alpha2@...>

> I thought HPGL, basically was G-code?  Aren't most printers run using X-
> Y coordinates?
> All this brings up the idea, why use, and try to hack an old printer
> and it's firmware?  Couldn't we just build a basic X-Y-Z CNC machine,
> and write or rewrite the software for the slice printing.
>
> Tom

A cheap printer is $50 or less and includes positioning in X and Y to better
than 0.001".   That is hard to beat for price/performance....

Regards,
Bob Headrick

--- In diy_3d_printing@yahoogroups.com, "Bob Headrick" <bobh@...>
wrote:
>
> From: "Thomas Schulko" <alpha2@...>
>
> > I thought HPGL, basically was G-code?  Aren't most printers run
using X-
> > Y coordinates?
> > All this brings up the idea, why use, and try to hack an old
printer
> > and it's firmware?  Couldn't we just build a basic X-Y-Z CNC
machine,
> > and write or rewrite the software for the slice printing.
> >
> > Tom
>
> A cheap printer is $50 or less and includes positioning in X and Y
to better
> than 0.001".   That is hard to beat for price/performance....
>
> Regards,
> Bob Headrick
>

Thanks Bob,

I was only thinking about having to get the exact same printer as
everyone else.  Not sure how you go about hacking a printers
firmware.  Would you have to customize of each brand, or model?
Plus, what if someone wanted to, myself included, to build a printer
with a significantly larger work envelope than a standard 8.5 X 14
printer.

Tom

Hello,

The moderator of the diy_3d_printing group has changed the group's name.
This means that both the group's email address and the group home page
location have changed.

The group email address:
diy_3d_printing_and_fabrication@yahoogroups.com

The group home page location:
http://groups.yahoo.com/group/diy_3d_printing_and_fabrication

If you have links which point to this group or an address book entry
for the group, you should update them, as the old addresses will no
longer work.

Regards,

Yahoo! Groups Customer Care

--- In diy_3d_printing_and_fabrication@yahoogroups.com, "danmauch"
<dmauch@...> wrote:
>
>   It seems like it would be so mych easier if we could use G code to
> run the printer XYZ movement  but not sure how we would do the print
> head unless we had huge files.
> Any thoughts?
>
> dan
>

The z-corp type printer involves printing a raster image followed by a
single z-axis move then another raster image.  g-code it totally
unsuitable and without significant development there is no way to
operate the print head.  Better to let the printer do what it is good at.

Graham

--- In diy_3d_printing_and_fabrication@yahoogroups.com, "Thomas
Schulko" <alpha2@...> wrote:

> > > All this brings up the idea, why use, and try to hack an old
> printer
> > > and it's firmware?

You don't need to hack the printer's firmware. What Fogassa and I have
done is let the printer believe it is still printing on paper.  Let it
do what it does best, you then just need to play with the powder
between page prints.

Fogassa is using a Lexmark which he found was "trivial" to hack
because it has a fairly simple start sequence, I have used a HP and
have also hacked an Epson into a moving gantry flatbed printer so all
makes are possible. I would way Lexmark and HP are preferred for
gantry operation however.

Cheers,

Graham

Fogassa,

You say in your description of your printer you would like a signal
between the printer and PC so that the powder cycle can be completed
before the next print out.  Can I suggest a USB to serial converter
from FTDI:

http://www.ftdichip.com/

These are a very simple way for the microcontroller to signal the PC
software.  A virtual serial port is set up on the PC and you use
normal serial coms in your code.  Alternatively some of the FTDI units
have some basic IO ports so the micro controller does not even have to
output serial.

Graham

Does anyone has the zcorp powder? I would like to try it to see if the
models resolution improves,before taking my printer apart to rebuild
it.(bigger and better yeaaa!!) I just need a kilo of it.

If you are interested in the ultimate in control of your inkjet
printer and/or printhead for means of 3D printing check out the
details here:

http://tech.groups.yahoo.com/group/Inkjet_PCB_Construction

There is some very good information on control of the print head and
x-y axes.

I encourage you to check it out!

Joseph
List-Owner

If you are seriously looking for new members, perhaps you should do
something about the "File - Joining.txt" message that is generated
when people join and which appears to be admonishing them to fill in
the "tell us about yourself" box somehow better than they did.

It appears to be an autoresponder that goes off no matter what you
fill in the box.

I"ve filled it in twice now .... I ain't doing it a third time.




--- In diy_3d_printing_and_fabrication@yahoogroups.com, "gsi11135"
<gsi11135@...> wrote:
>
> If you are interested in the ultimate in control of your inkjet
> printer and/or printhead for means of 3D printing check out the
> details here:
>
> http://tech.groups.yahoo.com/group/Inkjet_PCB_Construction
>
> There is some very good information on control of the print head and
> x-y axes.
>
> I encourage you to check it out!
>
> Joseph
> List-Owner
>

--- In diy_3d_printing_and_fabrication@yahoogroups.com, "Greg W"
<gregaw@...> wrote:
>
> Take me off your email list.

Why not just remove yourself?

Go to the group home page and click <Edit Membership> near the top.

If anyone else is having issues please e-mail off-list.

Thanks.

List Owner


--- In diy_3d_printing_and_fabrication@yahoogroups.com, "Greg W"
<gregaw@...> wrote:
>
> Because it doesn't recognize me as a member.
>
> Greg W.
>
>
> ----- Original Message -----
> From: dnaman43
> To: diy_3d_printing_and_fabrication@yahoogroups.com
> Sent: Saturday, July 26, 2008 2:51 PM
> Subject: [diy_3d_printing_and_fabrication] Re: REMOVE ME
>
>
> --- In diy_3d_printing_and_fabrication@yahoogroups.com, "Greg W"
> <gregaw@> wrote:
> >
> > Take me off your email list.
>
> Why not just remove yourself?
>
> Go to the group home page and click <Edit Membership> near the top.
>

Hello,

This email message is a notification to let you know that
a file has been uploaded to the Files area of the
diy_3d_printing_and_fabrication
group.

   File        : /Project1.zip
   Uploaded by : sid3622 <sid3622@...>
   Description : Binaries and SourceCode for the program that afogassa used, it
was made on C++ Builder 2007 (my skill are not good in c++, only the basic)

You can access this file at the URL:
http://groups.yahoo.com/group/diy_3d_printing_and_fabrication/files/Project1.zip

To learn more about file sharing for your group, please visit:
http://help.yahoo.com/l/us/yahoo/groups/original/members/web/index.htmlfiles

Regards,

sid3622 <sid3622@...>

I am V E R Y impressed with what you have accomplished. The concept
of making relatively simple modifications to an ink jet printer and
driving it with custom software turns a 3D printer into an easy
project.

A few questions. On CAD_CAM_EDM_DRO you mentioned what you are using
as a build material. Can you repost that information here so that it
is all in this group? I seem to remember you said it was dental
plaster and maltdextrose. Please correct me if I am incorrect.

What are the proportions of each component?
Are you using standard dental plaster of fast set?
How does the maltdextrose alter the property of the plaster?

I also read in your text file about a heater in the feed bin. Can you
explain what this does?

Would it be possible to get some photos of the feed bin and spreading
roller?

Thank you very much for sharing the amazing thing  you have created
and thank you to your friend for sharing the slicing software.

Tim
A2Z Corp
A2Z CNC division
1530 W Tufts Ave Unit B
Englewood CO 80110
720 833-9300

www.A2ZCNC.com

USA made accessories for desktop mills & lathes.
Specialized tools for the jewelry industry.

Actually, I'm Steve Greenfield, the listowner of
Inkjet_PCB_Construction. Joseph is kindly getting some
cross-pollination going between our two groups as there is a lot that
is applicable to both lists. Joseph is listowner of this list,
diy_3d_printing_and_fabrication.

And I'm a bit confused because you -are- a member of
Inkjet_PCB_Construction since July 26, the same day you applied to join.

My control of Yahoogroups is limited. I can't set any specific options
for sending out "Joining.txt" except pending membership. And I
wouldn't know how to write a script that could understand a sentence
and decide if it is what I'd accept.

"Joining.txt" is written because I get a high percentage of people
either writing nothing or saying something generic like "hello" or
"nice list" or "I want to join" (duh). And those are exactly the types
of generic things that spammers/spambots write into that field.

I tried to make it clear that Joining.txt is an autoresponder and that
if you filled in the "tell the moderator about yourself and why you
want to join" with something non-generic, there is no need to do
anything else. And that it gets sent out no matter how you filled it
in. It is the same system I use on Homebrew_PCBs and Electronics_101.

I see from the records that you asked to join, then canceled it 2
minutes later before I saw it, I presume because you felt you had
filled it in too generically, then I approved your membership request
within 14 minutes.

The demands of running a large list are high. Everyone wants it run
their way. If someone waits a day to be approved to join, sometimes
they fire off angry emails to me, or if their first post takes more
than a few hours to be approved they fire off 5 copies and then send
angry emails to me. There always seems to be a wannabe moderator
popping up to boss people around. And those who feel that ridiculing
other's grammar/spelling is acceptable. Spammers want to join and if
even one message gets sent, there will be 10 or 20 or 50 messages
discussing it, and threats of members leaving. Spammers are tricky,
they'll join and then do things I cannot easily monitor.

One goofball flogging his software got angry and tried to post
abusive, offensive messages to the list but I'd already put him on
moderation, so he posted pictures of his bare ass in photos and files,
and put abusive, offensive messages in every nook and cranny of the group.

Every negative event on a list has the real potential of causing
people to leave or just not post. Every negative event in the archives
makes it less likely that someone looking in will join.

But if I try to run my lists with an iron hand, no one wants to belong
because who wants to be treated like a 2 year old in a china shop?

So I try very hard to strike a balance. I hate unwritten rules, I've
belonged to lists that run that way and I quickly leave them because
there is always someone telling you that you are wrong and no one
agrees on exactly what the rules are. I try to make the rules and
guidelines as spelled out as possible while not overbearing, encourage
a friendly environment, and gently discourage the wannabe listcops. I
try to control spam as best I can by discouraging them and watching
out for them, and if any get through I just ban them and delete the
spam quietly.

No one can join by email, because that completely bypasses the system
of the "tell the owner about yourself and why you want to join" and
the obfuscated text system. Everyone is moderated when they first
join, and almost everyone gets unmoderated on their first message. I
have a life, so it is possible for approval to join or for a first
message may take as much as 2 days, on rare occasions 3 days. After
that, you are good to go. Sigh. I recall Fidonet taking 1 or 2 days
for -all- messages.

I try to moderate as little as possible. Most off topic stuff dies out
quickly, if not I may try to wind it down by quietly deleting the off
topic thread. It depends on what the off topic subject is, I know some
have great potential to blow up quickly. Political, religious, sports,
that kind of stuff I jump on quickly and ask for the thread to be
moved off list or to an appropriate list.

Normally this is the sort of thing I'd handle off-list, but this list
is new and I think this needs to be said. And I'm flattered that
Joseph tells me he is using my way of running my lists as a model for
his running of this one.

No moderator of Yahoogroups gets paid anything for their time. Keep
that in mind.

Steve Greenfield
Homebrew_PCBs, Electronics_101, Inkjet_PCB_Construction, etc.

--- In diy_3d_printing_and_fabrication@yahoogroups.com, "dnaman43"
<mevagissy@...> wrote:
>
> If you are seriously looking for new members, perhaps you should do
> something about the "File - Joining.txt" message that is generated
> when people join and which appears to be admonishing them to fill in
> the "tell us about yourself" box somehow better than they did.
>
> It appears to be an autoresponder that goes off no matter what you
> fill in the box.
>
> I"ve filled it in twice now .... I ain't doing it a third time.
>
>
>
>
> --- In diy_3d_printing_and_fabrication@yahoogroups.com, "gsi11135"
> <gsi11135@> wrote:
> >
> > If you are interested in the ultimate in control of your inkjet
> > printer and/or printhead for means of 3D printing check out the
> > details here:
> >
> > http://tech.groups.yahoo.com/group/Inkjet_PCB_Construction
> >
> > There is some very good information on control of the print head and
> > x-y axes.
> >
> > I encourage you to check it out!
> >
> > Joseph
> > List-Owner
> >
>

--- In diy_3d_printing_and_fabrication@yahoogroups.com, "Graham
Stabler" <grezmos@...> wrote:
>
> --- In diy_3d_printing_and_fabrication@yahoogroups.com, "Thomas
> Schulko" <alpha2@> wrote:
>
> > > > All this brings up the idea, why use, and try to hack an old
> > printer
> > > > and it's firmware?
>
> You don't need to hack the printer's firmware. What Fogassa and I have
> done is let the printer believe it is still printing on paper.  Let it
> do what it does best, you then just need to play with the powder
> between page prints.

So the trick is getting the correct sequence of triggers that the
printer expects. I know my printers fuss about exactly when it senses
the paper pass a certain point after feeding.

> Fogassa is using a Lexmark which he found was "trivial" to hack
> because it has a fairly simple start sequence, I have used a HP and
> have also hacked an Epson into a moving gantry flatbed printer so all
> makes are possible. I would way Lexmark and HP are preferred for
> gantry operation however.

Why are they preferred? Is it the way they are physically designed?
Normally I loathe Lexmark printers.

Someone asked about printing larger than 8.5 wide. There are older
wide format Epson printers out there that may not have high enough
resolution for what people expect in photos now, but are way more than
enough for 3D printing. I myself have a couple of Epson 1520 (13.6
wide by however long you want), 5 or 6 Epson 3000 (17 wide by however
long you want), and a 1280 (11 inches wide by however long). Most cost
me less than $50 each, all required varying amounts of cleaning.

There are occasionally old inkjet "plotters" on Craigslist or even
Freecycle. I got an Encad 36 inch wide inkjet plotter on Freecycle, it
uses HP cartridges and has a built-in bulk ink system. I will replace
its bulk ink system, it is a crappy design and I'll put in one of my
own. I'd planned on making it into a flatbed printer.

I got a Canon 17 inch wide printer from Freecycle. Its problem was
that the owner has many cats and doesn't vacuum.

I can't picture making something in this manner that could use
something wider than 8.5 inches. How strong is this stuff?

BTW, most of those direct-to-Tshirt printers are hacked Epson printers.

Canon printers are great because the heads pop right out and clean
right up, but you don't have to pay to replace the head each time you
buy more ink. HPs and Lexmarks of course the printheads get replaced
when you put new ink in, unless you refill. Epson piezo printheads are
more accepting of alternate fluids.

I've got some info on inkjet printers from cleaning to bulk ink
systems here:
http://www.polyphoto.com/tutorials/

Steve Greenfield

I'll chime in as the list owner of the OpenLathe group.  We
fortunately have had relatively few problems with spammers and OT
threads, but it is definitely not an easy job.  Fortunately, four of
us actually founded the group, so we share the responsibilities as
moderators.  To both Steve and Joseph, thanks for a great job.

Michael

On Sun, Jul 27, 2008 at 9:27 AM, Steve <alienrelics@...> wrote:
> Actually, I'm Steve Greenfield, the listowner of
> Inkjet_PCB_Construction. Joseph is kindly getting some
> cross-pollination going between our two groups as there is a lot that
> is applicable to both lists. Joseph is listowner of this list,
> diy_3d_printing_and_fabrication.
>
> And I'm a bit confused because you -are- a member of
> Inkjet_PCB_Construction since July 26, the same day you applied to join.
>
> My control of Yahoogroups is limited. I can't set any specific options
> for sending out "Joining.txt" except pending membership. And I
> wouldn't know how to write a script that could understand a sentence
> and decide if it is what I'd accept.
>
> "Joining.txt" is written because I get a high percentage of people
> either writing nothing or saying something generic like "hello" or
> "nice list" or "I want to join" (duh). And those are exactly the types
> of generic things that spammers/spambots write into that field.
>
> I tried to make it clear that Joining.txt is an autoresponder and that
> if you filled in the "tell the moderator about yourself and why you
> want to join" with something non-generic, there is no need to do
> anything else. And that it gets sent out no matter how you filled it
> in. It is the same system I use on Homebrew_PCBs and Electronics_101.
>
> I see from the records that you asked to join, then canceled it 2
> minutes later before I saw it, I presume because you felt you had
> filled it in too generically, then I approved your membership request
> within 14 minutes.
>
> The demands of running a large list are high. Everyone wants it run
> their way. If someone waits a day to be approved to join, sometimes
> they fire off angry emails to me, or if their first post takes more
> than a few hours to be approved they fire off 5 copies and then send
> angry emails to me. There always seems to be a wannabe moderator
> popping up to boss people around. And those who feel that ridiculing
> other's grammar/spelling is acceptable. Spammers want to join and if
> even one message gets sent, there will be 10 or 20 or 50 messages
> discussing it, and threats of members leaving. Spammers are tricky,
> they'll join and then do things I cannot easily monitor.
>
> One goofball flogging his software got angry and tried to post
> abusive, offensive messages to the list but I'd already put him on
> moderation, so he posted pictures of his bare ass in photos and files,
> and put abusive, offensive messages in every nook and cranny of the group.
>
> Every negative event on a list has the real potential of causing
> people to leave or just not post. Every negative event in the archives
> makes it less likely that someone looking in will join.
>
> But if I try to run my lists with an iron hand, no one wants to belong
> because who wants to be treated like a 2 year old in a china shop?
>
> So I try very hard to strike a balance. I hate unwritten rules, I've
> belonged to lists that run that way and I quickly leave them because
> there is always someone telling you that you are wrong and no one
> agrees on exactly what the rules are. I try to make the rules and
> guidelines as spelled out as possible while not overbearing, encourage
> a friendly environment, and gently discourage the wannabe listcops. I
> try to control spam as best I can by discouraging them and watching
> out for them, and if any get through I just ban them and delete the
> spam quietly.
>
> No one can join by email, because that completely bypasses the system
> of the "tell the owner about yourself and why you want to join" and
> the obfuscated text system. Everyone is moderated when they first
> join, and almost everyone gets unmoderated on their first message. I
> have a life, so it is possible for approval to join or for a first
> message may take as much as 2 days, on rare occasions 3 days. After
> that, you are good to go. Sigh. I recall Fidonet taking 1 or 2 days
> for -all- messages.
>
> I try to moderate as little as possible. Most off topic stuff dies out
> quickly, if not I may try to wind it down by quietly deleting the off
> topic thread. It depends on what the off topic subject is, I know some
> have great potential to blow up quickly. Political, religious, sports,
> that kind of stuff I jump on quickly and ask for the thread to be
> moved off list or to an appropriate list.
>
> Normally this is the sort of thing I'd handle off-list, but this list
> is new and I think this needs to be said. And I'm flattered that
> Joseph tells me he is using my way of running my lists as a model for
> his running of this one.
>
> No moderator of Yahoogroups gets paid anything for their time. Keep
> that in mind.
>
> Steve Greenfield
> Homebrew_PCBs, Electronics_101, Inkjet_PCB_Construction, etc.
>
> --- In diy_3d_printing_and_fabrication@yahoogroups.com, "dnaman43"
>
> <mevagissy@...> wrote:
>>
>> If you are seriously looking for new members, perhaps you should do
>> something about the "File - Joining.txt" message that is generated
>> when people join and which appears to be admonishing them to fill in
>> the "tell us about yourself" box somehow better than they did.
>>
>> It appears to be an autoresponder that goes off no matter what you
>> fill in the box.
>>
>> I"ve filled it in twice now .... I ain't doing it a third time.
>>
>>
>>
>>
>> --- In diy_3d_printing_and_fabrication@yahoogroups.com, "gsi11135"
>> <gsi11135@> wrote:
>> >
>> > If you are interested in the ultimate in control of your inkjet
>> > printer and/or printhead for means of 3D printing check out the
>> > details here:
>> >
>> > http://tech.groups.yahoo.com/group/Inkjet_PCB_Construction
>> >
>> > There is some very good information on control of the print head and
>> > x-y axes.
>> >
>> > I encourage you to check it out!
>> >
>> > Joseph
>> > List-Owner
>> >
>>
>
>

here is a description of what the powder is made of.
  It's just dental plaster ( Durone 4 Brand) + 30% of weight
maltodextrin( midway brand, guarana with acai flavor).
  I did try some other flavors but it doesn't work well as this one.
I don't know why, maybe the guarana or acai helps on bonding.
   I did try just maltodextrose but it won't work as good as the one
mentioned.
   I'm using just destilated water on the printer cartridge.
   the heater on the building chamber helps the water to dry out
faster,and stay on that layer only.Plus the models won't need to go to
the owen to dry out.It's made of a 40w soldering iron screwed to the
alluminum plate on the building bin.
   I'll be posting more pictures of next week.