Although I am by no means an expert, I would think directly using my
IR file might only be appropriate for 6012/8011/8811 series devices
since the extender is written specifically for them.

You will have to "start from scratch" by following my admittedly
sparse directions on loading an extender into IR specifically for use
with your 2116. With regard to loading extenders and making KeyMaps,
my MiniTutorial is meant as an overview. There may be better
documents that describe more of the details and options.

You will also need to verify that the functionality is the same
between the 6012/8011/8811 Extender3 that I used and the extender you
use in your 2116, specifically looking at the TOADTOG and LDKP
functionality as well as how nested macros are handled. I believe
each of these functional areas are determined solely by the extender
writer, and may be different from other extenders. A brief look at
the files reveals that you may want to use 15-2116ex2.zip. Definitely
review the functionality of this extender and compare to what I
describe in the tutorial.

Regards,

Greg



--- In jp1@yahoogroups.com, "jhstn58" <jhs1017@b...> wrote:
> smithjo601 - I am struggling with my 2116 extender, ToadTogs, etc.
> and want to follow your steps carefully because your functionality
is
> exactly what I want for my system (although in my case my DVD and
CBL
> box are TOAD devices, while everything else is DUDE. But when I
> tried to load your IR dump file into IR, I got several error
messages
> and the result is nothing but "ERROR" where all the device codes
> should be listed on the setup page. Do I need to do something else
> to load this particular file?
>
>
>
>
> --- In jp1@yahoogroups.com, "smithjo601" <smithjo601@y...> wrote:
> >
> > Done. I've updated the commentary in the MiniTutorial to refer to
> our
> > comments here as well as referring to the corresponding IRdump
file.
> >
> > Both of the following files are currently placed in the "Help
> > documents" folder.
> >
> > MiniTutorial_1.2.txt
> > Detailed example on setting up your remote control from scratch.
> > MiniTutorial_1.2_IRdump.txt
> > IR dump file roughly similar to that described in
> > MiniTutorial_1.2.txt
> >
> > I have placed them in the same directory, because I believe they
> are
> > paired together.
> >
> > Regards,
> >
> > Greg
> >
> > --- In jp1@yahoogroups.com, "ravi_ssnospam" <ravi_ssnospam@y...>
> > wrote:
> > > Greg,
> > > I was hoping that you would put your IR txt configuration file
in
> > the
> > > user configuration section.
> > >
> > > Thanks
> > > RS
> > > --- In jp1@yahoogroups.com, "smithjo601" <smithjo601@y...>
wrote:
> > > >
> > > > It sounds like you are complementing, in part, my specific
> post.
> > > And
> > > > for that I thank both of you. And *I* want to especially
thank
> > the
> > > > giants on whose shoulders we stand: those that have
contributed
> > > many
> > > > many many more hours and thought than *I* have to converting
> > these
> > > > inexpensive remotes into fully functional devices.
> > > >
> > > > The file in the section "Help Documents"
> > > named "MiniTutoral_1.1.txt"
> > > > is largely identical to the message you reference here (but
it
> > does
> > > > add a table of contents and a brief introduction).
> > > >
> > > > Kingmodem: it seems that your SAT button will use the
receiver
> > > on/off
> > > > state to determine whether to run audio through the receiver
or
> > to
> > > > run audio through the TV. This means that using dish 721 to
> view
> > > PVR,
> > > > movies, etc is a two-button process. Correct? If your
receiver
> > has
> > > > discrete on/off codes, then you may introduce the problem
> of "out-
> > > of-
> > > > sync" condition with the introduction of TOADTOG tracking
> > receiver
> > > > state (which itself is only a problem if you ever turn the
> > receiver
> > > > on or off from the front panel or from another remote). You
may
> > > want
> > > > to use an LKP (which could be either LKP or DKP) on the SAT
> > button
> > > to
> > > > turn on the SAT with audio through the receiver, and a short
> key
> > > > press to turn on the SAT with audio through the TV. Unless of
> > > course
> > > > your SAT is a TOAD, in which case you may want to use the SAT
> LKP
> > > as
> > > > the "re-sync SAT" button. If your receiver is a TOAD (or you
> > decide
> > > > that you like using the TOADTOG tracking receiver state),
then
> > you
> > > > may want to use LKP "RCVR" as the "re-sync RCVR" button. If
> your
> > > > reciever is a DUDE, I would definately consider NOT using
> TOADTOG
> > > to
> > > > track the reciever on/off state simply due to the out-of-sync
> > > > condition. If your receiver is a TOAD, then I *think* using
> > on/off
> > > > state to determine audio method may make it slightly more
> > difficult
> > > > for non-technical users to identify an "out-of-sync" state.
> > > (i.e. "I
> > > > pressed the button, but I don't hear sound. Is it trying to
go
> > > > through the TV, or the receiver. Which one has a problem?")
> > > >
> > > > My main point being that under "my" system, LKP device
buttons
> > are
> > > > used for "re-sync" for those devices that are tracked with
> > TOADTOG
> > > > (whether the devices are TOADs or whether you track state
with
> > > > TOADTOG). And for devices that do not use TOADTOG, the
> > > corresponding
> > > > LKP device buttons are available for additional use.
> > > >
> > > > I AM IN NO WAY TRYING TO TELL YOU THAT YOU ARE DOING IT
WRONG!
> In
> > > all
> > > > cases the owner of the remote decides the best functionality.
I
> > > just
> > > > am interested in exploring the options and the consequences.
> > > >
> > > >
> > > > RS: I've thought about Home Theatre button as all off. After
> > having
> > > > lived with the remote for a while in it's current setup there
> are
> > > two
> > > > problems. 1) When I returned from a week-long trip, the non-
> > > technical
> > > > users ended up with BOTH TOAD devices out-of-sync. They
> admitted
> > to
> > > > just turning on and off the power on the front panel of those
> > > > devices. 2) LKP Power was not used for "all off" as was my
> > > intention.
> > > > 3) the "all off" button destroys our use of pausing the DVD
and
> > > > returning the next evening to finish from where we started.
4)
> > my
> > > > DVD player is a TOAD, and VERY commonly when it is off we
will
> > > insert
> > > > a DVD prior to turning everything on (with one key press, by
> the
> > > > way). If we insert a DVD prior to turning everything on, the
> DVD
> > is
> > > > immediatly out of sync and pressing the DVD device button
then
> > > turns
> > > > it immediately off.
> > > >
> > > > I think number 2) caused number 1), in this case. I think the
> > > > improvement in my case is to swap the functionality of the
> Power
> > > > button such that SKP Power is "all off" and LKP Power
> is "current
> > > > device off". In this case, maybe I could use the "Home
Theatre"
> > > > button as a "all devices off except don't change DVD". Or
maybe
> > SKP
> > > > Power is "all off except DVD; change to DVD control" and DVD
> > > > device/LKP Power is DVD off.
> > > >
> > > > Due to our use of the DVD in these cases, and the fact that
our
> > DVD
> > > > is a TOAD, I have to rethink how I handle the DVD
> power/tracking
> > > > within the remote.
> > > >
> > > > I think the use of the Home Theatre button as "all off" would
> > > confuse
> > > > the non-technical users in my house. ("But it says 'Home
> > Theatre',
> > > > not 'Power'".)
> > > >
> > > > Regards,
> > > >
> > > > Greg
> > > >
> > > >
> > > > --- In jp1@yahoogroups.com, "kingmodem" <sharkus@s...> wrote:
> > > > > I agree! Thank you for this great starting point.
> > > > >
> > > > > An additional feature I added once I got the base features
> > > working
> > > > > was as follows:
> > > > >
> > > > > TV is normally watched from my dish 721 sat on channel 3
> (with
> > TV
> > > > > controlling audio volume). However, there are times (PVR,
> > > movies,
> > > > > etc) that I go through my receiver for 5.1 audio and s-
video.
> > > > >
> > > > > Therefore, I added the following feature on the SAT button:
> > > > >
> > > > > - Use TOADTOG protocol (with bit that tracks receiver
state):
> > > > > - When receiver is on: switch TV to video input 3, set
volume
> > > > > control to receiver, set receiver for TV/SAT audio/video
input
> > > > > - When receiver is off: set volume control to TV, change TV
> > > channel
> > > > > to '0' '3'
> > > > >
> > > > > This works absoultely great! I'm still amazed at the
> > > functionality
> > > > > available with a $20 remote.
> > > > >
> > > > > --- In jp1@yahoogroups.com, "ravi_ssnospam"
> > <ravi_ssnospam@y...>
> > > > > wrote:
> > > > > > I am new to this group. Hats off to you guys for putting
> all
> > > > this
> > > > > > information together.
> > > > > > Thanks for your detailed information. Your implementaion
> was
> > > > > closest
> > > > > > to what I wanted to do. Got me going fast. I still
> haven't
> > > > fully
> > > > > > implemented it.
> > > > > > Have you put your file in the files section?
> > > > > > One change I was going to make was use the Home Theatre
key
> > for
> > > > > all
> > > > > > off to make it more idiot proof.
> > > > > >
> > > > > > RS