1) I have a T3 and a NT3. The NT3 is touted as the better one. Why is that? (The feel the same to me.) 2) Which one's sharper, the 40/1.8 or the 50/1.7? (I...
Frank, The differences between the T3 and NT3 are minor and really only affect a couple of functions. The main one is the NT3 has a built-in hot shoe where the...
Thanks for the info. I find the 40 and 50 equal with sharpness, but then I just went with my eyes could see. All my Konica gear is newish. The black T3 does...
On Thu, Jul 2, 2009 at 10:01 AM, Frank ... You would have to run tests using low-speed, fine-grained film and crazy (and costly) enlargement before you could...
Thanks, Kosma. I was just curious. I've now used all my lenses all are super-sharp. (24, 29/1.8, 40, 50/1.7, 135/3.2.) The 135 is really amazing! It blows the...
... Actually, getting the 'greener grass' means you need to look for a proper film. Most cheap stuff (Kodak Gold, Fuji Superia, etc.) works well with cheap...
Okay, now that Kodachrome is gone, what sharp color film do you suggest? I had no idea that these cameras were expensive when the came out. Where they more...
On Fri, Jul 10, 2009 at 11:03 PM, ... A knowledgeable person (photography chemist/technician) told me to avoid Kodak films in general and go for Fuji...
A retired Kodak engineer told me that the Fuji 4 layer technology was developed to solve a specific problem, that has since been solved another way, and Fuji...
Kosma, In 1970 I paid a little over 200 USD for a T2 with the f1.8 kit lens from either Cambridge Camera or 47th St Photo. A year later I bought a body only...
... cpicalc says that 1970's $200 would be about $1100 now - which is about the price of EOS 500D with kit lens... -- Kosma Moczek http://www.kosma.pl/...
Having problems with message search?
Fill out this form to ensure your group is one of the first to be migrated to the new message search system.
Offline 
Send Email