Sounds fun, I'm experimenting with gps programming at the moment, part
of my new research job.

Regards
Chris Holme


-----Original Message-----
From: mugwa@yahoogroups.com [mailto:mugwa@yahoogroups.com] On Behalf Of
Adrian Chadd
Sent: Sunday, 19 March 2006 9:39 PM
To: mugwa@yahoogroups.com
Subject: Re: [mugwa] This months mugwa meeting

On Sun, Mar 19, 2006, Andrew McMeikan wrote:
> I was thinking of turning up, it as been a while.
>
> Anything been happening, many others going to be there?

I might be tempted to. I have an old C64 SID (sound chip) hooked
up to an AT90S8535 with LCD and rotary encoder. Its ugly, but
its working. :)



adrian



Yahoo! Groups Links

On Sun, Mar 19, 2006, Andrew McMeikan wrote:
> I was thinking of turning up, it as been a while.
>
> Anything been happening, many others going to be there?

I might be tempted to. I have an old C64 SID (sound chip) hooked
up to an AT90S8535 with LCD and rotary encoder. Its ugly, but
its working. :)



adrian

Hello Peoples

Mike at world wide has some second hand 7 AHr SLA batteries for a fiver
each. These things have come from alarm systems and are one year old. I
bought twenty of them for stacking on my solar battery and for running
my robot drives which are 300W each. I have put these through some
rudimentary tests like how long will they last when driving a 100W
spotlight, all of them went better than half an hour. This translates to
somewhere around 3.5-4 AHr at a 1 Hr rate. My guess is that if they
where tested at the twenty hour rate specified they would come out
pretty close to the 7 AHr rating printed on them. In short, a good buy.

Regards
Chris Holme

Hello Andrew

Could you give me a call on 0403 878 175 sometime please.

Regards
Chris Holme

Damn, I should have charged you more. ;)

On 10/21/05, Andrew Smallridge <asmallri@...> wrote:
>
> Hi All,
>
> If anyone wants to buy a wizard PC I have a spare one for sale. Comes with
> 32MB memory and a 5G hard disk.
>
> "Biscuit PC" / Wizard B2B2C
>
> Basically this is a complete PC in a solid industrial stainless steel case
> about the size of CD drive..
>
> The specs:
> Cyrix 233
> 5 gig HD (laptop drive)
> 32 MB SODIMM upgradeable to 128MB
> Onboard video
> Ethernet
> 1xPS/2
> 2xUSB
> 1xPrinter
> 2xCOM RS232 (one port can be used for RS422/RS485)
> PC/104 expansion
> Audio headers
> LVDS header
>
> Additional info:
>
> http://linux.dd.com.au/quest/linux/advantech/
>
>  This unit requires 5Volts at 1 to 5 amps. (depending on peripherals, etc).
> It also has a watchdog timer in it (handy for some), etc
>
> Some pics:
> http://www.cybix.com.au/wizard%20001.jpg
> http://www.cybix.com.au/wizard%20002.jpg
> http://www.cybix.com.au/wizard%20003.jpg
> http://www.cybix.com.au/wizard%20004.jpg
> http://www.cybix.com.au/wizard%20005.jpg
>
> Netway sell then for $199.
>
> The board works. I believe the hard disk works but have never used it on the
> Wizard. You will need to load an operating system on the Wizard (Linux,
> WIn98, WinNT)
>
> Offers?
>
> Regards, Andrew
>
>  ________________________________
>  YAHOO! GROUPS LINKS
>
>
>  Visit your group "mugwa" on the web.
>
>  To unsubscribe from this group, send an email to:
>  mugwa-unsubscribe@yahoogroups.com
>
>  Your use of Yahoo! Groups is subject to the Yahoo! Terms of Service.
>
>  ________________________________
>

----- Original Message -----

From: Jean-Michel Howland

To: mugwa@yahoogroups.com

Sent: Wednesday, October 19, 2005 11:05 AM

Subject: Re: [mugwa] Looking for a Wizaed (Biscuit PC) to borrow for a couple of weeks

You're welcome to borrow this little beast if you want.

I'll even sell it back to you for what I paid for it. :)

Regards
Mick.

On 10/18/05, Andrew Smallridge <asmallri@...> wrote:

Hi all,

I'm looking for a wizard PC to borrow for a couple of weeks (wait a minute -
didn't he just sell one? - yes i did and just one week later I was
regretting it) but enough of that.

Anyone got one I can play with?

Regards, Andrew




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Hi all,

I'm looking for a wizard PC to borrow for a couple of weeks (wait a minute -
didn't he just sell one? - yes i did and just one week later I was
regretting it) but enough of that.

Anyone got one I can play with?

Regards, Andrew

Hello all.
I have been playing around with battery operated sensors just lately.
The circuit involves a pic18f1320, 2 lm35s,a reset circuit, a 3V reg for
reference purposes, a 4 way dil switch for config purposes, a LED and a
ER400TS easy radio.

I have done obvious things like power the sensors, the reference, the
switch, the led and the radio from port pins. I have also increased
resistor values dramatically eg. The led is in series with a 2k2
resistor.

I am using a tl499a to pump a 3V supply up to five volts for the micro
and the radio.

My questions are:
1. are monolithic capacitors a good choice for ripple suppression
or should I use something else?

2. will lowering the value of the capacitors used lower leakage and
hence current consumption?

3. I purchased some low leakage electros from jaycars (100 uF) but
this didn't seem to make any difference to using the el cheapos from
WWE, why is this? And,

4.  Does anybody have any suggestions as to how I may lower current
consumption even further?


Regards
Chris Holme

> Actually speaking of balls and electronics and the interesting things some
clever people can do with them,.. check out

Damn, my bad... the URL is.

http://www.daves-domain.com/movie/Thisguyisamazing.wmv     (Sound required).

if you just go to http://www.daves-domain.com/movie you can right-click save-as
the file if you like it.

> Cheers,
> David.

> Air pressure is another thing of interest to me at the moment. Does
> anyone know of a cheap sensor?
>

DIY's are also possible for (static) pressure, but I think they can be a bit
trickier, for two reasons... Linearity and, if you're
doing barometric pressure, the small changes with respect to a "baseline" of
1000 units (millibars?).  Often you see barometric
pressure in this scale quoted with one decimal place too, which means 5 orders
of magnitude between your resolution and range.

One interesting side note is the intriguing way that top loading washing machine
water level sensor work.. They essentially trap a
column of air between the water level in the base of the wash drum at the
bottom, and the sensor itself, usually mounted slightly
above the top of the drum level.  As the water level rises, the air column is
put under more and more pressure until it finally
trips the switch, turning off the water inlet, and starting the wash cycle. 
Amusing messes can be made by forgetting this, and
equalising the pressure when there is already some amount of water in the drum. 
I did this once in the process of figuring out why
my washer was overflowing. In the first instance the cold-water solenoid wasn't
closing properly, so the wash cycle would start but
water would continue and eventually overflow the drum.  So I swapped the hot and
cold solenoids around, since my missus does
cold-only washes.  However in the process of figuring out the solenoid was sus,
I disconnected the pipe from the level sensor with a
half full drum.  When I reconnected it, having convinced myself I'd fixed the
problem, it dutifully tried to fully fill an already
half full drum, the extra half being continuously dumped on the floor, and since
the level switch never tripped the solenoid stayed
open and the wash cycle never started.  Sigh.

Anyway, back to air pressure measurements.... Essentially you measure the change
in volume of a sealed container of gas, along with
temperature.  Then use the gas laws to figure out the change in pressure
associated with your sensor.

Eg. you could have a tin can solder-sealed all around at a given (and measured)
pressure / temperature.  From that point on,
assuming no gas leaks out, the tin can will either expand or contract depending
on changes in the surrounding air pressure.  One
_could_ attach a steel strain guage to the can and measure the strain on a flat
side-wall, figure out the pressure difference (guage
pressure), and then you know the difference between now, and when you sealed
your tin.  You use your base calibration to then
determine absolute external pressure.

However, the can itself will resist pressure changes in a not-necessarily easily
predicted manner.  An alternative is to have a
sealed cylinder with a piston, again set up at a known pressure/temperature, and
then measure changes in the height of the piston.
You'd have to take into account friction in the piston seals etc.

If you're sensing line air pressure in high pressure systems, that's all well
and good, but measuring barometric pressure amounts to
measuring maximum changes of under 100 units out of 1000, eg, a 10 percent
change.  Probably the easiest way to do that would be to
get a resonable quality mechanical barometric pressure guage and instrument the
indicator dial! (eg. with a shaft angle sensor or
something).

Essentially most mechanical barometric devices convert small pressure changes
around some "average" into a coiling or uncoiling
motion of a long tube wound in an open spiral, which then rotates a needle with
it.

Dynamic pressure is another thing altogether.  This will relate to your
windspeed measurement too.  Maybe Andrew's platinum balls
can do double duty!

Actually speaking of balls and electronics and the interesting things some
clever people can do with them,.. check out
http://www.daves-domain.com/movies/Thisguyisamazing.wmv     (Sound required).

Cheers,
David.

----- Original Message -----
From: "Chris" <cholme@...>
To: <mugwa@yahoogroups.com>
Sent: Tuesday, October 04, 2005 6:25 AM
Subject: RE: [mugwa] Sensing wind speed
>
> Regards
>
> Chris Holme
>
> -----Original Message-----
> From: mugwa@yahoogroups.com [mailto:mugwa@yahoogroups.com] On Behalf Of
> ron.casotti@...
> Sent: Monday, 3 October 2005 11:53 PM
> To: mugwa@yahoogroups.com
> Subject: RE: [mugwa] Sensing wind speed
>
>
>
> Another way which I don't think anyones mentioned, is using differential
> pressure sensors and a venturie . 2 or 3 sensors
>
> could be used to extend the range.
>
>
>
> Ron.
>
>
>
>
>
> -----Original Message-----
> From: mugwa@yahoogroups.com [mailto:mugwa@yahoogroups.com] On Behalf Of
> Chris
> Sent: Monday, 3 October 2005 9:37 PM
> To: mugwa@yahoogroups.com
> Subject: RE: [mugwa] Sensing wind speed
>
>
>
> Thanks fellows, I am most interested in the linear thing Dave mentioned
> concerning thermal gradients. Being in possession of nifty things like
> difference amplifiers and high resolution ADCs (all grafted through
> various sample programs) I think that I will experiment with heated temp
> sensors.
>
> Although Andrews plutonium balls sound like fun too.
>
> Regards
> Chris Holme
>
> -----Original Message-----
> From: mugwa@yahoogroups.com [mailto:mugwa@yahoogroups.com] On Behalf Of
> David Emrich
> Sent: Monday, 3 October 2005 8:50 PM
> To: mugwa@yahoogroups.com
> Subject: Re: [mugwa] Sensing wind speed
>
> > Hello Guys
> > I've been looking around and trying to learn something about sensing
> > wind speed. Apart from anemometers with three cups it appears that my
> > options are ultrasonic transducers or using a pair of LM335's, one of
> > which is self heated.
> > Does anyone have any practical experience with wind speed? Or, has
> > anyone heard of another way to measure wind speed?
>
> I've done the anemometer type thingy, and you're not limited to three
> cups... Four is just as workable, and slightly easier to make
> (90 degree angles being what they are, versus 120 degree ones).  I used
> bits of 2mm galvanised fencing wire and table-tennis balls
> cut in half.  Mounted them onto a small 12V motor from an eftpos journal
> printer which I mounted vertically.  I reduced the bearing
> friction in the motor by supporting the "short" end of the shaft on a
> hardened steel ball and only using the inbuilt bronze bushes
> for side-thrust.  I reduced the brush/commutator friction by removing
> the brushes and commutator!  I reduced the rotating intertia
> by removing the coils and armature. Oh, and I took out the magnets too
> :-S  Not much of the original motor left except the shaft and
> bronze bushes.  Oh, and the photo-interruptor disc on the back which
> gave me something like 20 slots per rev.  BUT, it did
> accurately read windspeeds down below 1 kmh, and over 80kmh (half a knot
> to 40 knots), compared to a commercial unit rated well
> beyond my meagre usage requirements (and even further beyond my price
> tag!).  It could probably have gone higher, maybe even to
> 150kmh, I just didn't test it that hard.
>
> I've also used the two-temperature-sensors and (in my case independent)
> heater element, that works quite well, and is valid for just
> about ANY type of fluid, not just gases.
>
> One simple way to measure windspeed that sometimes is good enough is a
> large vane which is suspended vertically by a thinish (but
> rigid) wire, from a hinge.  The more the wind blows, the more the vane
> deflects,... if it's horizontal, time to batten down the
> hatches!  I don't remember how the relationship between angle and
> windspeed goes, but it's probably NOT linear, whereas within
> reasonable limits, both the cups-anemometer and thermal gradient methods
> ARE linear with speed.
>
> With any wind sensor, there are some issues to think about (you can
> decide to ignore them, but you need to know what they are to
> decide if you CAN ignore them!).
>
> 1. Turbulence.  This can be from nearby objects, or your sensor device
> itself.  Pretty obviously, you can't tolerate much of this
> from either source, unless you're purely interested in a "wind /
> no-wind" sensor.
>
> 2. Direction.  Wind-sensors for (eg.) sailboating might require some
> degree of dependence on all three directions, since the boat
> can be keeled over quite sharply, affecting the apparent direction of
> the wind on the sails.  Therefore some kind of "3D windspeed"
> (more probably wind-velocity) sensor might be required. Meteorological
> wind sensors should be designed to read wind speed
> independent of horizontal direction (that is, they're essentially two-D
> devices).  Assuming one has handled point 1 appropriately,
> and is on level ground, one doesn't normally expect much wind to be
> travelling in anything other than a horizontal direction. :-)
> Lastly, windspeed in a pipe is obvioulsy constrained to flow directly
> along the pipe, sufficiently far away from corners and
> fittings, and is pretty much one-dimensional.
>
> 3. "Dynamic range".  Just how much (and how little) wind speed do you
> need to accurately read?
>
> 4. Linearity.  Do you need it? Can you work with a simple fudge table?
> Can you measure wind speed in your own not-necessarily-linear
> units and be happy with that?  (A related problem occurs with thermistor
> based temperature measurement,... one of our projects at
> work measured temperature in what became known as Leotherms... the guy
> writing the micro-code was Leo!).
>
> I think that about covers it.
>
> Hope you can get something useful out of all that.
>
> Cheers,
> David.
>
>
>
>
>
> Yahoo! Groups Links
>
>
>
>
>
>
>
>
>
>   _____
>
> YAHOO! GROUPS LINKS
>
>
>
> *          Visit your group "mugwa <http://groups.yahoo.com/group/mugwa>
> " on the web.
>
>
> *          To unsubscribe from this group, send an email to:
>  mugwa-unsubscribe@yahoogroups.com
> <mailto:mugwa-unsubscribe@yahoogroups.com?subject=Unsubscribe>
>
>
> *          Your use of Yahoo! Groups is subject to the Yahoo!
> <http://docs.yahoo.com/info/terms/>  Terms of Service.
>
>
>
>   _____
>
>

Thanks fellows, I am most interested in the linear thing Dave mentioned
concerning thermal gradients. Being in possession of nifty things like
difference amplifiers and high resolution ADCs (all grafted through
various sample programs) I think that I will experiment with heated temp
sensors.

Although Andrews plutonium balls sound like fun too.

Regards
Chris Holme

-----Original Message-----
From: mugwa@yahoogroups.com [mailto:mugwa@yahoogroups.com] On Behalf Of
David Emrich
Sent: Monday, 3 October 2005 8:50 PM
To: mugwa@yahoogroups.com
Subject: Re: [mugwa] Sensing wind speed

> Hello Guys
> I've been looking around and trying to learn something about sensing
> wind speed. Apart from anemometers with three cups it appears that my
> options are ultrasonic transducers or using a pair of LM335's, one of
> which is self heated.
> Does anyone have any practical experience with wind speed? Or, has
> anyone heard of another way to measure wind speed?

I've done the anemometer type thingy, and you're not limited to three
cups... Four is just as workable, and slightly easier to make
(90 degree angles being what they are, versus 120 degree ones).  I used
bits of 2mm galvanised fencing wire and table-tennis balls
cut in half.  Mounted them onto a small 12V motor from an eftpos journal
printer which I mounted vertically.  I reduced the bearing
friction in the motor by supporting the "short" end of the shaft on a
hardened steel ball and only using the inbuilt bronze bushes
for side-thrust.  I reduced the brush/commutator friction by removing
the brushes and commutator!  I reduced the rotating intertia
by removing the coils and armature. Oh, and I took out the magnets too
:-S  Not much of the original motor left except the shaft and
bronze bushes.  Oh, and the photo-interruptor disc on the back which
gave me something like 20 slots per rev.  BUT, it did
accurately read windspeeds down below 1 kmh, and over 80kmh (half a knot
to 40 knots), compared to a commercial unit rated well
beyond my meagre usage requirements (and even further beyond my price
tag!).  It could probably have gone higher, maybe even to
150kmh, I just didn't test it that hard.

I've also used the two-temperature-sensors and (in my case independent)
heater element, that works quite well, and is valid for just
about ANY type of fluid, not just gases.

One simple way to measure windspeed that sometimes is good enough is a
large vane which is suspended vertically by a thinish (but
rigid) wire, from a hinge.  The more the wind blows, the more the vane
deflects,... if it's horizontal, time to batten down the
hatches!  I don't remember how the relationship between angle and
windspeed goes, but it's probably NOT linear, whereas within
reasonable limits, both the cups-anemometer and thermal gradient methods
ARE linear with speed.

With any wind sensor, there are some issues to think about (you can
decide to ignore them, but you need to know what they are to
decide if you CAN ignore them!).

1. Turbulence.  This can be from nearby objects, or your sensor device
itself.  Pretty obviously, you can't tolerate much of this
from either source, unless you're purely interested in a "wind /
no-wind" sensor.

2. Direction.  Wind-sensors for (eg.) sailboating might require some
degree of dependence on all three directions, since the boat
can be keeled over quite sharply, affecting the apparent direction of
the wind on the sails.  Therefore some kind of "3D windspeed"
(more probably wind-velocity) sensor might be required. Meteorological
wind sensors should be designed to read wind speed
independent of horizontal direction (that is, they're essentially two-D
devices).  Assuming one has handled point 1 appropriately,
and is on level ground, one doesn't normally expect much wind to be
travelling in anything other than a horizontal direction. :-)
Lastly, windspeed in a pipe is obvioulsy constrained to flow directly
along the pipe, sufficiently far away from corners and
fittings, and is pretty much one-dimensional.

3. "Dynamic range".  Just how much (and how little) wind speed do you
need to accurately read?

4. Linearity.  Do you need it? Can you work with a simple fudge table?
Can you measure wind speed in your own not-necessarily-linear
units and be happy with that?  (A related problem occurs with thermistor
based temperature measurement,... one of our projects at
work measured temperature in what became known as Leotherms... the guy
writing the micro-code was Leo!).

I think that about covers it.

Hope you can get something useful out of all that.

Cheers,
David.





Yahoo! Groups Links

Hot wire resistance/current flow, air pressure through a venturi,
windmill.

You could have a calibrated mercury drip and a fine wire grid detecting
how far the drops are blown.  (this may have an environmental impact ;)

For seriously strong wind replace mercury with plutonium balls, keep
them under 10kgs!

Actually a lead ball on a swing arm should be able to measure up to most
non extinction level events.  For severe events you would want a wind
shielded ball as well so as to account for any plate tectonics induced
by the wind.  Then just hang you balls out and you can know how windy it
is.

Adjust size of balls for expect range of wind that will pass them.

	 cya, Andrew...

PS: posted without any rereading, any actual use of this random info at
your own risk.

> -----Original Message-----
> From: mugwa@yahoogroups.com [mailto:mugwa@yahoogroups.com] On
> Behalf Of Chris
> Sent: Monday, 3 October 2005 8:16
> To: mugwa@yahoogroups.com
> Subject: [mugwa] Sensing wind speed
>
>
> Hello Guys
> I've been looking around and trying to learn something about sensing
> wind speed. Apart from anemometers with three cups it appears that my
> options are ultrasonic transducers or using a pair of LM335's, one of
> which is self heated.
> Does anyone have any practical experience with wind speed? Or, has
> anyone heard of another way to measure wind speed?
>
> Regards
> Chris Holme
>
>
>
>
> ------------------------ Yahoo! Groups Sponsor
> --------------------~-->
> Most low income households are not online. Help bridge the
> digital divide today!
> http://us.click.yahoo.com/cd_AJB/QnQLAA/TtwFAA/j5T0lB/TM
> --------------------------------------------------------------
> ------~->
>
>
> Yahoo! Groups Links
>
>
>
>
>

> Hello Guys
> I've been looking around and trying to learn something about sensing
> wind speed. Apart from anemometers with three cups it appears that my
> options are ultrasonic transducers or using a pair of LM335's, one of
> which is self heated.
> Does anyone have any practical experience with wind speed? Or, has
> anyone heard of another way to measure wind speed?

I've done the anemometer type thingy, and you're not limited to three cups...
Four is just as workable, and slightly easier to make
(90 degree angles being what they are, versus 120 degree ones).  I used bits of
2mm galvanised fencing wire and table-tennis balls
cut in half.  Mounted them onto a small 12V motor from an eftpos journal printer
which I mounted vertically.  I reduced the bearing
friction in the motor by supporting the "short" end of the shaft on a hardened
steel ball and only using the inbuilt bronze bushes
for side-thrust.  I reduced the brush/commutator friction by removing the
brushes and commutator!  I reduced the rotating intertia
by removing the coils and armature. Oh, and I took out the magnets too :-S  Not
much of the original motor left except the shaft and
bronze bushes.  Oh, and the photo-interruptor disc on the back which gave me
something like 20 slots per rev.  BUT, it did
accurately read windspeeds down below 1 kmh, and over 80kmh (half a knot to 40
knots), compared to a commercial unit rated well
beyond my meagre usage requirements (and even further beyond my price tag!).  It
could probably have gone higher, maybe even to
150kmh, I just didn't test it that hard.

I've also used the two-temperature-sensors and (in my case independent) heater
element, that works quite well, and is valid for just
about ANY type of fluid, not just gases.

One simple way to measure windspeed that sometimes is good enough is a large
vane which is suspended vertically by a thinish (but
rigid) wire, from a hinge.  The more the wind blows, the more the vane
deflects,... if it's horizontal, time to batten down the
hatches!  I don't remember how the relationship between angle and windspeed
goes, but it's probably NOT linear, whereas within
reasonable limits, both the cups-anemometer and thermal gradient methods ARE
linear with speed.

With any wind sensor, there are some issues to think about (you can decide to
ignore them, but you need to know what they are to
decide if you CAN ignore them!).

1. Turbulence.  This can be from nearby objects, or your sensor device itself. 
Pretty obviously, you can't tolerate much of this
from either source, unless you're purely interested in a "wind / no-wind"
sensor.

2. Direction.  Wind-sensors for (eg.) sailboating might require some degree of
dependence on all three directions, since the boat
can be keeled over quite sharply, affecting the apparent direction of the wind
on the sails.  Therefore some kind of "3D windspeed"
(more probably wind-velocity) sensor might be required. Meteorological wind
sensors should be designed to read wind speed
independent of horizontal direction (that is, they're essentially two-D
devices).  Assuming one has handled point 1 appropriately,
and is on level ground, one doesn't normally expect much wind to be travelling
in anything other than a horizontal direction. :-)
Lastly, windspeed in a pipe is obvioulsy constrained to flow directly along the
pipe, sufficiently far away from corners and
fittings, and is pretty much one-dimensional.

3. "Dynamic range".  Just how much (and how little) wind speed do you need to
accurately read?

4. Linearity.  Do you need it? Can you work with a simple fudge table? Can you
measure wind speed in your own not-necessarily-linear
units and be happy with that?  (A related problem occurs with thermistor based
temperature measurement,... one of our projects at
work measured temperature in what became known as Leotherms... the guy writing
the micro-code was Leo!).

I think that about covers it.

Hope you can get something useful out of all that.

Cheers,
David.

Hello Guys
I've been looking around and trying to learn something about sensing
wind speed. Apart from anemometers with three cups it appears that my
options are ultrasonic transducers or using a pair of LM335's, one of
which is self heated.
Does anyone have any practical experience with wind speed? Or, has
anyone heard of another way to measure wind speed?

Regards
Chris Holme