> Another silly question (maybe to you or others) that seems
> somewhat self-explanatory but has me a bit confused.   You
> all mentioned that you purchased a replacement power supply.
> Is that the electric power cord that plugs into the wall or
> is it the cord that resembles the cord that plugs into a
> computer power supply that goes into the PCB of the Raite??

Actually, the power supply is the complete "yellow" PCB (printed circuit
board) on the left hand side of the machine.  The "green" PCB on the
otherside is the motherboard.

While some people have indeed replaced the complete power supply, all of
us that have responded to you so far have actually repaired the existing
power supply.  So all you need to do is order the parts from the list and
replace them on the PCB and you should be good to go.  (There are 1 or 2
parts from the main motherboard PCB that will also likely need replacing).

> Rob, I REALLY do appreciate your post and compared to me, you
> and anyone else that has successfully repaired their Raite
> are an electronics wiz---no joke.  The soldering is exactly
> what I'm afraid of.  I've never had a reason to do any, so I
> will have to read up on it.

Well, just FYI, before I started the JP1 group (for people hacking remote
controls) I'd never done any soldering either.  I have next to no
electronics knowledge either, so when people start talking about
capcitors, resistors, diodes, etc all I know is that they exist and that I
can order them from Mouser or Digi-key, I don't really know what they all
do.

Think of it like this, you can plug a device into a wall outlet without
understanding how electricity works, well it's somewhat similar here.  You
can remove a burned out capacitor and replace it with a new one without
knowing what a capacitor does nor what it's role in the overall circuit
is.  All you need to know how to do is work a soldering iron.

Just like with the wall outlet, you do need to take care to put the new
parts in the right way around but unlike the wall outlet these parts
aren't designed so that they can't go in the wrong way around.  The PCB
itself will usually have markings that should show you which side is
positive and which side is negative.

Here's another way of looking at it.  Right now your Raite is worthless,
even for parts you won't get more than $5 or so for it, so what do you
have to lose?  If you are not successful in trying to repair the player,
you'll still probably get $5 for it for parts, so you won't have lost
anything, but if you are successful, not only will you feel really proud
of yourself (trust me, I was *WAY* pleased with myself when I fixed mine,
as it was the first electronics device that I ever fixed) but you'll also
have a region-free MV-free DVD player again.

Even though there are tons of really cheap region-free DVD players on the
market now, very few of them are macrovision-free, so the Raite is still a
desirable player (for those that understand what it is).

Rob
http://www.hifi-remote.com

Hi everyone,

Good to know the list isn't as dead as I thought.  Thanks to everyone for their
input and info.  I haven't had a problem discovering the posts in the archives
nor reading about the parts list (already have both lists Mouser & Digi-Key as
well as the referenced pictures), it's just that I am as Walt put it,
electronically challenged.   Not regarding firmware or anything computer
related, but actually going into the guts of the Raite and attempting to fix it.

As James mentioned in another reply to my posting regarding this matter, it's
entirely different for someone that's not used to tinkering around inside/or
with electronics parts (and principles) to grasp these repair concepts as easily
as someone that has prior experience (little or a lot).  ((Thanks James for your
input as well.))

Another silly question (maybe to you or others) that seems somewhat
self-explanatory but has me a bit confused.   You all mentioned that you
purchased a replacement power supply.  Is that the electric power cord that
plugs into the wall or is it the cord that resembles the cord that plugs into a
computer power supply that goes into the circuit board of the Raite??  When I'm
looking for this replacement power supply should I be looking under computer
power supply?  Dvd power supply?  Another Raite power supply?  What terminology
should I use and what types of power supply should I be looking for exactly?

Rob, I REALLY do appreciate your post and compared to me, you and anyone else
that has successfully repaired their Raite are an electronics wiz---no joke. 
The soldering is exactly what I'm afraid of.  I've never had a reason to do any,
so I will have to read up on it.

I'm no newbie regarding computers (I can replace anything inside it and love to
experiment with computers & computer parts), but I AM a newbie regarding fixing
electronics.  So, the very act of soldering is a giant leap for me.  If it gets
to be too much to handle, I'll sell the player for parts.  I've been putting it
off though, because I used the player for so long (5yrs) and I really don't want
to get rid of it.  Right now, I'm using a Malata with no problems and it plays
everything (even PAL discs).

Again, any help is appreciated.

Sharon

r39o <r39o@...> wrote:
> How exactly did you fix your Raite??

Replaced the smoked 3 or 4 parts with the uprated ones suggested in
other posts.  Did it last year.  Now I have a spare power supply.  If
your supply is fried you can get another from some place mentioned
here.  Go search the internet or eBay for a replacement power
supply.  That is what my buddy did.  I just later fixed his shpply.
There are other issues some units have.  You will have to go read.
That is what I did.  That is what you will need to do too.  You used
to be able to buy them cheap on eBay as they are considered old
now.   If you are electronically too challenged, go buy another one.



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[Non-text portions of this message have been removed]

I'm no electronics wiz either, but when my Raite burned out a year or so
back, I came back to this group (which was pretty dormant at the time) and
searched the archives to see if others had had the same problem and fixed
it, which of course they had.  I colelcted together the various postings
on the subject along with a couple of web sites that listed the required
part numbers and I assembled the list that you can find in the file
section.  Most of the part numbers quoted were for Mouser.com but I was
about to order some stuff (for remote controls) from Digi-key at the time,
so I found all the Digi-key part numbers, which are included in the list I
compiled.

Then I just replaced all the fried parts with the replacement parts when
they arrived and voila, the Raite worked again.  I'm not aware of there
being any step by step guide to replacing the parts, but if there was,
what would it say?

1) Remove old part
2) Solder in new part

If it's the soldering itself that you're afraid of, I'm sure there are
many web sites that have beginners guides to soldering, but I don't have
any links to give you for it.

A quick high level guide to the soldering parts that you might need is:

1) soldering iron, preferably 30 watts or higher, don't use a 15 watt iron
as you won't be able to melt the solder on the PCB (printed circuit
board).

2) de-soldering bulb.  You use this to suck up the solder from the PCB.

3) de-soldering braid.  You use this to remove the smaller traces of
solder left behind by the bulb, but that's still holding the part in
place.

Then, use this stuff to remove the solder from the fried part and remove
the part itself, then insert the new part (taking care to get the + and -
the right way around, look at the old part before you remove it to see
which way round it goes).

Before you remove any parts, look at them to see how crowded they are (as
some of the capacitors are tightly squeezed together) and decide what
order you want to re-install the good parts.

I also installed a push button switch on my player which cuts the power
completely, which should greatly extend the life of the repaired power
supply.  To do this, I drilled a whole in the front of the player for the
switch, then soldered wires to the back of the switch.  I ran these wires
along the inside to where the main 110v power line comes into the casing,
then I "broke" the connection of the hot wire using this switch.

Hope that helps,
Rob

> -----Original Message-----
> From: Dr. James F. Weiher [mailto:weiher@...]
> Sent: Friday, October 01, 2004 7:38 AM
> To: raite-dvd@yahoogroups.com
> Subject: Re: [raite-dvd] Dead Raite Repair Process
>
>
> I would also greatly appreciate it if someone answers Sharon in some
> detail -- to the list of course. My Raite is also sitting on
> the shelf
> with a fried power supply, just waiting for me to get up the
> courage to
> try to repair it. For someone experienced with electronics
> repair it is
> probably a self explanitory snap, but for the rest of us some
> detailed
> step by step would be very helpful.
>
> As for myself, I  have not really done anything since I built
> the first
> HeathKit color TV in '61-62. That was a big job but the manual really
> told me step by step what and how to do it, what to be careful about,
> etc. etc. And when I was done the TV worked like a charm
> until in the
> early 80's I gave it away. The modern electronics as in TVs and
> computers today scare the living daylights out of me. But it
> looks like
> the boards in the Raite are not that complicated. What say the
> experienced on this list.
>
> James
>
> grymyln schrieb:
>
> >Hi Walt,
> >
> >How exactly did you fix your Raite??  Mine died months ago
> (board fried in 3 or 4 spots = dead player) and I'm not an
> electric wiz but I don't want to throw it away as I keep
> reading how everyone has miraculously fixed theirs.
> >
> >I don't know anyone who does electronics but I would
> appreciate a step by step guide of sorts (the few pics on the
> Yahoo forum site doesn't really help me).  I have no idea how
> you replace the spots that were burned on the circuitboard
> (though I am aware replacement parts can be bought---and I do
> have the list--but it's no help to me since I don't know you
> go about putting them in the board or even maneuvering about
> the board without frying any additional parts that may or may
> not be damaged) .  Also, the power cord sparked a bit when I
> plugged it in to the wall (nasty burn smell and smoke for a
> couple of seconds).  Should I just give up and toss it?
> >
> >ANY help is appreciated.
> >
> >Sharon
> >
> >
> >
> >
>
>
>

I would also greatly appreciate it if someone answers Sharon in some
detail -- to the list of course. My Raite is also sitting on the shelf
with a fried power supply, just waiting for me to get up the courage to
try to repair it. For someone experienced with electronics repair it is
probably a self explanitory snap, but for the rest of us some detailed
step by step would be very helpful.

As for myself, I  have not really done anything since I built the first
HeathKit color TV in '61-62. That was a big job but the manual really
told me step by step what and how to do it, what to be careful about,
etc. etc. And when I was done the TV worked like a charm  until in the
early 80's I gave it away. The modern electronics as in TVs and
computers today scare the living daylights out of me. But it looks like
the boards in the Raite are not that complicated. What say the
experienced on this list.

James

grymyln schrieb:

>Hi Walt,
>
>How exactly did you fix your Raite??  Mine died months ago (board fried in 3 or
4 spots = dead player) and I'm not an electric wiz but I don't want to throw it
away as I keep reading how everyone has miraculously fixed theirs.
>
>I don't know anyone who does electronics but I would appreciate a step by step
guide of sorts (the few pics on the Yahoo forum site doesn't really help me).  I
have no idea how you replace the spots that were burned on the circuitboard
(though I am aware replacement parts can be bought---and I do have the list--but
it's no help to me since I don't know you go about putting them in the board or
even maneuvering about the board without frying any additional parts that may or
may not be damaged) .  Also, the power cord sparked a bit when I plugged it in
to the wall (nasty burn smell and smoke for a couple of seconds).  Should I just
give up and toss it?
>
>ANY help is appreciated.
>
>Sharon
>
>
>
>

> How exactly did you fix your Raite??

Replaced the smoked 3 or 4 parts with the uprated ones suggested in
other posts.  Did it last year.  Now I have a spare power supply.  If
your supply is fried you can get another from some place mentioned
here.  Go search the internet or eBay for a replacement power
supply.  That is what my buddy did.  I just later fixed his shpply.
There are other issues some units have.  You will have to go read.
That is what I did.  That is what you will need to do too.  You used
to be able to buy them cheap on eBay as they are considered old
now.   If you are electronically too challenged, go buy another one.

Hi Walt,

How exactly did you fix your Raite??  Mine died months ago (board fried in 3 or
4 spots = dead player) and I'm not an electric wiz but I don't want to throw it
away as I keep reading how everyone has miraculously fixed theirs.

I don't know anyone who does electronics but I would appreciate a step by step
guide of sorts (the few pics on the Yahoo forum site doesn't really help me).  I
have no idea how you replace the spots that were burned on the circuitboard
(though I am aware replacement parts can be bought---and I do have the list--but
it's no help to me since I don't know you go about putting them in the board or
even maneuvering about the board without frying any additional parts that may or
may not be damaged) .  Also, the power cord sparked a bit when I plugged it in
to the wall (nasty burn smell and smoke for a couple of seconds).  Should I just
give up and toss it?

ANY help is appreciated.

Sharon


r39o <r39o@...> wrote:
Forum kinda dead these days.  My Raite works fine, still.  We blew a
supply in one my friend has.  Got another.  Now fixed the one I have
for spare from his.  So things are fine and it just works and works.
My little son uses it most of the time and has not broken it.

There are others to play with, I understand, but our Raite keeps
working so I don't bother.

Take care, Walt in San Diego...



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[Non-text portions of this message have been removed]

Forum kinda dead these days.  My Raite works fine, still.  We blew a
supply in one my friend has.  Got another.  Now fixed the one I have
for spare from his.  So things are fine and it just works and works.
My little son uses it most of the time and has not broken it.

There are others to play with, I understand, but our Raite keeps
working so I don't bother.

Take care, Walt in San Diego...

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Depends what you want - if you are a hifi fan than "home theater"  is  a cheap
and easy way to get something that works. A true Hifi is composed of components
not bought as a package deal  - where you can select a DVD player whcih ahs the
options you want plus adding selected spekaers etc to the deal.

>>> pvt0585@... 09/23/04 01:58PM >>>
Hello Folks,
I want to buy a DVD/VCD/MP3 player to be used at home. what is the
best option, home theater or hi-fi music system?
what is the diffrence between Home Theater & Hi Fi music system?
Please advice.
Thanks,
Pankaj



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[Non-text portions of this message have been removed]

Hello Folks,
I want to buy a DVD/VCD/MP3 player to be used at home. what is the
best option, home theater or hi-fi music system?
what is the diffrence between Home Theater & Hi Fi music system?
Please advice.
Thanks,
Pankaj

Good explanation :-)

I am just about doing the same repair but I have so far just changed Zener
and capacitors

C23

C19

ZD3

ZD3

I am waiting for delivery on the transistors wich I am upgrading with a pair
of BD139 wich is can handle more effect.



                   / Michael





-----Ursprungligt meddelande-----
Från: criswilliam [mailto:woodward@...]
Skickat: den 12 september 2004 04:30
Till: raite-dvd@yahoogroups.com
Ämne: [raite-dvd] Fixed 715 Power Supply - Continuous Loading and Sound
Problem



Here's an old post I had on www.nerd-out.com forums.  Doesn't seem
many people are posting there anymore so thought it might be helpful
here.  Hope it helps someone.

Woodie

I have a Raite 715 that I fixed and I'm hoping this info will help
others who have a similar problem. This site and other peoples info
was a great help to me....I truly appreciate it. First let me say
that I am no electronics expert, and don't claim to be, but I was
able to repair my DVD player, so I'd like to share my info and
hopefully save others some time and money (and frustration)!! I will
try to explain this as simple as possible so hopefully everyone will
understand, so bare with me if you already know a lot of this, I am
trying to make it clear for everyone! It may appear to be a lot of
information, but it was actually a pretty simple thing to fix and I
think anyone can do this with a little patience.

Now let me explain my symptoms. The player started getting distorted
sound when any DVD or CD would start playing, or when I would skip
to another chapter/song. After about 30 seconds the sound would
clear up and sound fine, there was never any problem with the
picture. This lasted about 3 or 4 weeks and then the player stopped
loading the disk. When any disk was inserted it would show "Loading"
on the front display continuously and never start playing the disk.
I could hear the drive attempt to spin up the disk about 3 or 4
times and then stop.

My first thought was a problem with the drive, but found it was not,
it actually was a power problem. If you have a similar problem, you
can check the possible drive / power problem by removing the power
plugged into the drive only, leave all the other cables plugged in.
Since this is the same type drive that is used in a PC it uses the
same power. If you have a PC power supply or PC (remove the cover),
connect one of the power plugs into the drive in your DVD player and
turn on the power. Then power up your DVD player and attempt to load
a disc. If it loads then you know you have a power problem and not a
drive problem. You can also test the drive by removing the drive
from your DVD player (although it requires a little more work to
completely remove) and install it in your PC. See if you can read a
disc on your PC, if so you know your drive is good. This is how I
discovered my drive was good.

Now to repair the power distribution board. I don't know how to test
all the transistors, diodes and capacitors on the board, but I found
from someone elses post, all the items that would be the most likely
to fail. So I ordered all of them (less than $5.00 total) and began
replacing them. A great site to order these parts from is
www.mouser.com. They ship fast, have great prices and don't require
a minimum order. I will list the parts, their location on the board
and mousers part number so you can easily order them. Since they are
fairly cheap you may want to order a few extra of each in case you
mess up one trying to install it.

47uf 50v 105c capacitor / C20 on board / mouser #140-ESRL50V47
330uf 25v 105c capacitor / C18, C19, C25 / #630-STX25V330
2200uf 16v 85c capacitor / C23, C24 / #647-UVR1C222MHA
47uf 25v 105c capacitor / C26 / #630-STX25V47
NTE289A transistor / Q5, Q6 / #526-NTE289A
15v 1w Zener diode / ZD3 / #625-1N4744A

Please verify these are the same on your board before you order /
replace them as they may have had different designs. To replace them
you'll just need a cheap solder iron, a solder vacuum or solder wick
to desolder the old parts and a little solder (be sure to use rosin
core solder). When you install the new parts, be sure you install
them EXACTLY the same way the old parts were installed. The zener
diode must face the same direction, the capacitors must have the
negative post in the right location, and the transistors must be
installed the same way. It is pretty well marked on the board unless
it has been burned up, so please make notes before removing the old
parts. On my board I noticed an apparent burn around the ZD3 zener
diode so I replaced it first but this did not fix it, same problem.
I then replaced the two transistors Q5 and Q6, still did not fix it,
same problem. I then decided to replace all the capacitors (too
anxious I guess). I replaced the C18, C19, C20, C23, C24, C25 and
C26 capacitors. AND THIS FIXED IT!!! The disc spun up and loaded and
began reading!! And there was no distorted sound either when the
disc first started or when I skipped to another chapter. After
closer inspection of the capacitors it appeared one of the
capacitors C23 or C24 was bad, it appeared a bit darker like it had
burned up, but I'm not certain of that. All I cared was that my
Raite DVD player was back. I then drilled some holes in the cover
over the power distribution board, as others have suggested, to
allow good ventilation, and I installed a toggle switch on the
external power cord so I could turn the power completely off to the
player when I'm not using it because I understand from others that
the internal power supply remains on even when the player is off and
this may contribute to some of the power problems these Raite
players seem to have.

If you don't feel comfortable doing all this you can order a
refurbished power supply board from www.dvd-wizards.com for $50.00.
But I felt it was worth a try to repair since the parts were so
cheap. So hopefully this info will help some of you out there still
trying to hang on to your old Raite DVD player. It was my first
player, and I upgraded it to Macro / Region Free, so I just couldn't
let it die. Good luck and send me a message if you have any
questions!

Woodie



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[Non-text portions of this message have been removed]

Here's an old post I had on www.nerd-out.com forums.  Doesn't seem
many people are posting there anymore so thought it might be helpful
here.  Hope it helps someone.

Woodie

I have a Raite 715 that I fixed and I'm hoping this info will help
others who have a similar problem. This site and other peoples info
was a great help to me....I truly appreciate it. First let me say
that I am no electronics expert, and don't claim to be, but I was
able to repair my DVD player, so I'd like to share my info and
hopefully save others some time and money (and frustration)!! I will
try to explain this as simple as possible so hopefully everyone will
understand, so bare with me if you already know a lot of this, I am
trying to make it clear for everyone! It may appear to be a lot of
information, but it was actually a pretty simple thing to fix and I
think anyone can do this with a little patience.

Now let me explain my symptoms. The player started getting distorted
sound when any DVD or CD would start playing, or when I would skip
to another chapter/song. After about 30 seconds the sound would
clear up and sound fine, there was never any problem with the
picture. This lasted about 3 or 4 weeks and then the player stopped
loading the disk. When any disk was inserted it would show "Loading"
on the front display continuously and never start playing the disk.
I could hear the drive attempt to spin up the disk about 3 or 4
times and then stop.

My first thought was a problem with the drive, but found it was not,
it actually was a power problem. If you have a similar problem, you
can check the possible drive / power problem by removing the power
plugged into the drive only, leave all the other cables plugged in.
Since this is the same type drive that is used in a PC it uses the
same power. If you have a PC power supply or PC (remove the cover),
connect one of the power plugs into the drive in your DVD player and
turn on the power. Then power up your DVD player and attempt to load
a disc. If it loads then you know you have a power problem and not a
drive problem. You can also test the drive by removing the drive
from your DVD player (although it requires a little more work to
completely remove) and install it in your PC. See if you can read a
disc on your PC, if so you know your drive is good. This is how I
discovered my drive was good.

Now to repair the power distribution board. I don't know how to test
all the transistors, diodes and capacitors on the board, but I found
from someone elses post, all the items that would be the most likely
to fail. So I ordered all of them (less than $5.00 total) and began
replacing them. A great site to order these parts from is
www.mouser.com. They ship fast, have great prices and don't require
a minimum order. I will list the parts, their location on the board
and mousers part number so you can easily order them. Since they are
fairly cheap you may want to order a few extra of each in case you
mess up one trying to install it.

47uf 50v 105c capacitor / C20 on board / mouser #140-ESRL50V47
330uf 25v 105c capacitor / C18, C19, C25 / #630-STX25V330
2200uf 16v 85c capacitor / C23, C24 / #647-UVR1C222MHA
47uf 25v 105c capacitor / C26 / #630-STX25V47
NTE289A transistor / Q5, Q6 / #526-NTE289A
15v 1w Zener diode / ZD3 / #625-1N4744A

Please verify these are the same on your board before you order /
replace them as they may have had different designs. To replace them
you'll just need a cheap solder iron, a solder vacuum or solder wick
to desolder the old parts and a little solder (be sure to use rosin
core solder). When you install the new parts, be sure you install
them EXACTLY the same way the old parts were installed. The zener
diode must face the same direction, the capacitors must have the
negative post in the right location, and the transistors must be
installed the same way. It is pretty well marked on the board unless
it has been burned up, so please make notes before removing the old
parts. On my board I noticed an apparent burn around the ZD3 zener
diode so I replaced it first but this did not fix it, same problem.
I then replaced the two transistors Q5 and Q6, still did not fix it,
same problem. I then decided to replace all the capacitors (too
anxious I guess). I replaced the C18, C19, C20, C23, C24, C25 and
C26 capacitors. AND THIS FIXED IT!!! The disc spun up and loaded and
began reading!! And there was no distorted sound either when the
disc first started or when I skipped to another chapter. After
closer inspection of the capacitors it appeared one of the
capacitors C23 or C24 was bad, it appeared a bit darker like it had
burned up, but I'm not certain of that. All I cared was that my
Raite DVD player was back. I then drilled some holes in the cover
over the power distribution board, as others have suggested, to
allow good ventilation, and I installed a toggle switch on the
external power cord so I could turn the power completely off to the
player when I'm not using it because I understand from others that
the internal power supply remains on even when the player is off and
this may contribute to some of the power problems these Raite
players seem to have.

If you don't feel comfortable doing all this you can order a
refurbished power supply board from www.dvd-wizards.com for $50.00.
But I felt it was worth a try to repair since the parts were so
cheap. So hopefully this info will help some of you out there still
trying to hang on to your old Raite DVD player. It was my first
player, and I upgraded it to Macro / Region Free, so I just couldn't
let it die. Good luck and send me a message if you have any
questions!

  Woodie

The D14 and D14a appear to be diodes of some kind,, but I see nothing on
them to know what to get. The C5 is a capacitor on which I can see the
size and voltage rating, so I can get that one, even though it is not on
the list, as D14 and D14a are also not on the list. If anyone else on
the list knows about these items, please respond.

Pity noone has a copy of the schematics. I'd love to look at them.

James F. Weiher

Bryan Richter schrieb:

>This all sounds so familiar.. my zd3 was also fried to a crisp.  I guess I
>would replace all the common parts that the list offers, mainly because you
>don't want to have to do this twice and the new parts (if ordered from
>digi-key) have a higher heat rating, and will be less likely to burn out in
>the future.  As for the "unlisted" parts... if its just a light browning
>around the edges, i would replace, if and only if your positive you can find
>the appropriate part # first.  Compare the looks of the parts to other parts
>on the "list" as most parts are quite common. Color bands can tell you more
>specifics.  Download a colorband chart, it may help. If you can't find the
>part, i would repair the rest and hope that it's not fried, a slight
>browning doesn't always mean a failure.  As for the parts you are having
>trouble locating... be sure to check the main board as I believe these two
>parts are located there.    I'm not sure of why the pics. won't open, I
>unfortunately do not have them anymore...
>
>Thanks
>Bryan
>
>
>
>>From: "Dr. James F. Weiher" <weiher@...>
>>Reply-To: raite-dvd@yahoogroups.com
>>To: raite-dvd@yahoogroups.com
>>Subject: [raite-dvd] Power Supply Status?  Raite 715 AVPhile
>>Date: Tue, 31 Aug 2004 09:54:03 -0400
>>
>>In look at the circuit board of the power supply I see that
>>ZD3 shows heavy brown "burn" around it
>>ZD1 show slight brown
>>Q5 and Q6 slight brown, hardly noticible
>>C23 and C24 are have leaked at the bottom
>>C5 has leaked at the bottom
>>D14 and D14a show slight browning around the holes only
>>C19 shows some slight browning, but C18 and C25 look normal. Of course
>>I've not looked critically at PS boards in more years than, I care to
>>remember (say the 60s).
>>
>> From the repair parts list on the server, I do not see C5, D14, D14a.
>>What might it mean that these have failed for me and not others? Also
>>that C19 may be a problem but C18 and C25 don't show much or nothing.
>>
>>I presume that both ZD should be replaced and probably Q5, Q6.
>>
>>I don't see any evidence of burning/browning on the top of the main
>>board, but I did not see where the R253 and Q5 are on the main board.
>>
>>When I checked the photos in the photo section of the server, I see that
>>the thumbnails expand to screen views (30-70K or so) , but I am unable
>>to download the full pictures. Has something been removed, or how do I
>>do that.
>>
>>Any help or suggestions will be most welcome. For 4 years the Raite has
>>given me no problems, so I merely assumed it was good and never followed
>>any information about it on your group or others. Then bang.
>>
>>James F. Weiher
>>
>>
>>
>>
>
>_________________________________________________________________
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>School Guide! http://special.msn.com/network/04backtoschool.armx
>
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>



[Non-text portions of this message have been removed]

This all sounds so familiar.. my zd3 was also fried to a crisp.  I guess I
would replace all the common parts that the list offers, mainly because you
don't want to have to do this twice and the new parts (if ordered from
digi-key) have a higher heat rating, and will be less likely to burn out in
the future.  As for the "unlisted" parts... if its just a light browning
around the edges, i would replace, if and only if your positive you can find
the appropriate part # first.  Compare the looks of the parts to other parts
on the "list" as most parts are quite common. Color bands can tell you more
specifics.  Download a colorband chart, it may help. If you can't find the
part, i would repair the rest and hope that it's not fried, a slight
browning doesn't always mean a failure.  As for the parts you are having
trouble locating... be sure to check the main board as I believe these two
parts are located there.    I'm not sure of why the pics. won't open, I
unfortunately do not have them anymore...

Thanks
Bryan

>From: "Dr. James F. Weiher" <weiher@...>
>Reply-To: raite-dvd@yahoogroups.com
>To: raite-dvd@yahoogroups.com
>Subject: [raite-dvd] Power Supply Status?  Raite 715 AVPhile
>Date: Tue, 31 Aug 2004 09:54:03 -0400
>
>In look at the circuit board of the power supply I see that
>ZD3 shows heavy brown "burn" around it
>ZD1 show slight brown
>Q5 and Q6 slight brown, hardly noticible
>C23 and C24 are have leaked at the bottom
>C5 has leaked at the bottom
>D14 and D14a show slight browning around the holes only
>C19 shows some slight browning, but C18 and C25 look normal. Of course
>I've not looked critically at PS boards in more years than, I care to
>remember (say the 60s).
>
>  From the repair parts list on the server, I do not see C5, D14, D14a.
>What might it mean that these have failed for me and not others? Also
>that C19 may be a problem but C18 and C25 don't show much or nothing.
>
>I presume that both ZD should be replaced and probably Q5, Q6.
>
>I don't see any evidence of burning/browning on the top of the main
>board, but I did not see where the R253 and Q5 are on the main board.
>
>When I checked the photos in the photo section of the server, I see that
>the thumbnails expand to screen views (30-70K or so) , but I am unable
>to download the full pictures. Has something been removed, or how do I
>do that.
>
>Any help or suggestions will be most welcome. For 4 years the Raite has
>given me no problems, so I merely assumed it was good and never followed
>any information about it on your group or others. Then bang.
>
>James F. Weiher
>
>

_________________________________________________________________
Get ready for school! Find articles, homework help and more in the Back to
School Guide! http://special.msn.com/network/04backtoschool.armx

In look at the circuit board of the power supply I see that
ZD3 shows heavy brown "burn" around it
ZD1 show slight brown
Q5 and Q6 slight brown, hardly noticible
C23 and C24 are have leaked at the bottom
C5 has leaked at the bottom
D14 and D14a show slight browning around the holes only
C19 shows some slight browning, but C18 and C25 look normal. Of course
I've not looked critically at PS boards in more years than, I care to
remember (say the 60s).

  From the repair parts list on the server, I do not see C5, D14, D14a.
What might it mean that these have failed for me and not others? Also
that C19 may be a problem but C18 and C25 don't show much or nothing.

I presume that both ZD should be replaced and probably Q5, Q6.

I don't see any evidence of burning/browning on the top of the main
board, but I did not see where the R253 and Q5 are on the main board.

When I checked the photos in the photo section of the server, I see that
the thumbnails expand to screen views (30-70K or so) , but I am unable
to download the full pictures. Has something been removed, or how do I
do that.

Any help or suggestions will be most welcome. For 4 years the Raite has
given me no problems, so I merely assumed it was good and never followed
any information about it on your group or others. Then bang.

James F. Weiher

----------------------- *** Disclaimer *** -----------------------
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hi Dave,

Check out these FW's -
http://www.weethet.nl/english/video_yami715_updatefirmware.php#patched

Found both patched versions to be very reliable!

Rgds
Dave





[Non-text portions of this message have been removed]

--- In raite-dvd@yahoogroups.com, "weiherde" <weiher@u...> wrote:
> My Raite 715 AVPhile DVD Player that has given me good service
since
> abou 2000 (one of the last ones shipped) would not turn on
yesterday
> evening. There is power to the power recepticle on the back of the
> unit but the on/off button does not seem to turn it on. The DVD
drawer
> will not open, there is nothing on the display, I hear no sounds.
>
> Is this something simple, like a fuse or faulty on/off switch that
> would be easy to fix? I do not have any circuit diagram, only the
user
> manual that has no technical info. I like this unit because it is
all
> region, has an internal PAL/NTSC conversion, macrovision override
and
> has German menus. I've seen cheaper newer units that can be hacked
to
> provide multi region but without the macrovision override. Hence my
> desire to repair my trusty old Raite 715 if that is easy or not too
> expensive.
>
> New to the group, thanks in advance for any advice or suggestions
Hello - there is a fuse inside.  As you open the cover, you'll
see the small power supply on the left.  If the fuse is not
blown, look for evidence of overheating or burnt parts on that
board.  If you see them, you may need to build the power supply.

I rebuilt mine about a year ago, also installed the radio shack
power switch.  The trouble with the design is that even when the
unit is switched off, the power supply is still live and
vulnerable to overheating and premature failure.
Dave

My Raite 715 AVPhile DVD Player that has given me good service since
abou 2000 (one of the last ones shipped) would not turn on yesterday
evening. There is power to the power recepticle on the back of the
unit but the on/off button does not seem to turn it on. The DVD drawer
will not open, there is nothing on the display, I hear no sounds.

Is this something simple, like a fuse or faulty on/off switch that
would be easy to fix? I do not have any circuit diagram, only the user
manual that has no technical info. I like this unit because it is all
region, has an internal PAL/NTSC conversion, macrovision override and
has German menus. I've seen cheaper newer units that can be hacked to
provide multi region but without the macrovision override. Hence my
desire to repair my trusty old Raite 715 if that is easy or not too
expensive.

New to the group, thanks in advance for any advice or suggestions.

--- In raite-dvd@yahoogroups.com, "davexnet01" <davexnet01@y...>
wrote:
> --- In raite-dvd@yahoogroups.com, "davexnet01" <davexnet01@y...>
> wrote:
> > --- In raite-dvd@yahoogroups.com, "davexnet01" <davexnet01@y...>
> > wrote:
> > > Hello,
> > > yesterday, I updated from a flavor of the 42 firmware to
> > > Yam713_BT_06a3_patched.  I did this because of ongoing
> > > sound stuttering and audio synch problems in VCDs.
> > >
> > > The update to A3 was successful, and the sound problems are
> > > gone, but this firmware does not
> > > operate as expected.  Macrovision is off permanently, but
> > > region seems to be locked at 2.  I can't play my USA region 1
> > > disks at all.
> > > Neither does this FW have a loophole menu, and I can find no
way
> > > of changing it.
> > > Even worse, when I attempted to update again today to
> > > 42bt715ger Without IDE.BIN, the current FW in the machine is
> > > ignoring the upgrade attempt, instead it opens (after about 30
> > > seconds) a SMART NAVI menu !
> > > Please advise.  My machine is originally a Raite 715.
> > > Dave
> > Is it possible this FW is not updateable - oh no!
> > I looked at the bank30.rom with a hex editor.  unable to find the
> > strings apasswd or bank30 inside.  I'm able to do so in
> > 42bt715ger Without IDE.BIN and others.
> > Dave
> Panic over.  I was using Nero Express, and I didn't notice it
> was leaving the disk open (multi session) soon as I turned this
> off it worked.. Phew!
> Dave
Eventually upgraded it to 42-BT-713-MONYKA-V2, seems pretty nice,
but still has the sync problems with KVCD formated disk.
The A3 firmware I tried played them great, but it seemed locked
on region 2.
There must be a firmware that can play kvcd, svcd, and offer
"vcr friendly" and region control.

Dave

--- In raite-dvd@yahoogroups.com, "davexnet01" <davexnet01@y...>
wrote:
> --- In raite-dvd@yahoogroups.com, "davexnet01" <davexnet01@y...>
> wrote:
> > Hello,
> > yesterday, I updated from a flavor of the 42 firmware to
> > Yam713_BT_06a3_patched.  I did this because of ongoing
> > sound stuttering and audio synch problems in VCDs.
> >
> > The update to A3 was successful, and the sound problems are
> > gone, but this firmware does not
> > operate as expected.  Macrovision is off permanently, but
> > region seems to be locked at 2.  I can't play my USA region 1
> > disks at all.
> > Neither does this FW have a loophole menu, and I can find no way
> > of changing it.
> > Even worse, when I attempted to update again today to
> > 42bt715ger Without IDE.BIN, the current FW in the machine is
> > ignoring the upgrade attempt, instead it opens (after about 30
> > seconds) a SMART NAVI menu !
> > Please advise.  My machine is originally a Raite 715.
> > Dave
> Is it possible this FW is not updateable - oh no!
> I looked at the bank30.rom with a hex editor.  unable to find the
> strings apasswd or bank30 inside.  I'm able to do so in
> 42bt715ger Without IDE.BIN and others.
> Dave
Panic over.  I was using Nero Express, and I didn't notice it
was leaving the disk open (multi session) soon as I turned this
off it worked.. Phew!
Dave

--- In raite-dvd@yahoogroups.com, "davexnet01" <davexnet01@y...>
wrote:
> Hello,
> yesterday, I updated from a flavor of the 42 firmware to
> Yam713_BT_06a3_patched.  I did this because of ongoing
> sound stuttering and audio synch problems in VCDs.
>
> The update to A3 was successful, and the sound problems are
> gone, but this firmware does not
> operate as expected.  Macrovision is off permanently, but
> region seems to be locked at 2.  I can't play my USA region 1
> disks at all.
> Neither does this FW have a loophole menu, and I can find no way
> of changing it.
> Even worse, when I attempted to update again today to
> 42bt715ger Without IDE.BIN, the current FW in the machine is
> ignoring the upgrade attempt, instead it opens (after about 30
> seconds) a SMART NAVI menu !
> Please advise.  My machine is originally a Raite 715.
> Dave
Is it possible this FW is not updateable - oh no!
I looked at the bank30.rom with a hex editor.  unable to find the
strings apasswd or bank30 inside.  I'm able to do so in
42bt715ger Without IDE.BIN and others.
Dave

Hello,
yesterday, I updated from a flavor of the 42 firmware to
Yam713_BT_06a3_patched.  I did this because of ongoing
sound stuttering and audio synch problems in VCDs.

The update to A3 was successful, and the sound problems are
gone, but this firmware does not
operate as expected.  Macrovision is off permanently, but
region seems to be locked at 2.  I can't play my USA region 1
disks at all.
Neither does this FW have a loophole menu, and I can find no way
of changing it.
Even worse, when I attempted to update again today to
42bt715ger Without IDE.BIN, the current FW in the machine is
ignoring the upgrade attempt, instead it opens (after about 30
seconds) a SMART NAVI menu !
Please advise.  My machine is originally a Raite 715.
Dave

Hey,  I haven't posted here in a couple of years....it seems.. its
like the television, if you have a clear picture and everything is
running fine, you don't think about it, you just enjoy it...

I am running 4.2 (maybe 4.3? I believe), haven't touched the thing
for a while...

Anyway, the last couple of movies that we played, heavily pixelized
and skipped during a few special effects scenes...I know one was a
columiba tri-star...

If I recall correctly, columiba tri-star came out with seamless
branching which the old firmwares couldn't handle (patriot, stuart
little, etc..)... that wss the last time that I upgraded the
firmware... haven't had problems since and haven't touched it since...

Anyway, do you think this is a firmware issue for the player, or a
firmware issue for the drive?

If for the player, what is the latest and greatest _ without _
macrovision?

Don't recall what drive I have, so you can't help if it may be a
drive issue...

thanks!
dom

does anyone knows the value of this component? is the L6 on the
power supply

This is totally a SWAG but open it up and check all the capacitors on the
power supply, if you see any leaking - replace them.  I had poor audio on
one of my units once and when I replaced all the leaking caps it was
fixed.

Rob
http://www.hifi-remote.com

> -----Original Message-----
> From: Jed C. P. Dunlap [mailto:jed@...]
> Sent: Monday, June 14, 2004 2:23 PM
> To: raite-dvd@yahoogroups.com
> Subject: [raite-dvd] Buzzing/Humming on AVPhile 715
>
>
> Hi,
>
> I searched the archives on this but came up empty-handed: is anyone
> experiencing an annoying buzzing or humming coming through
> the audio on the
> 715?
>
> It sounds like interference - just like video signal leaking
> into the audio,
> though I can't confirm the cause.  It's been doing it for as
> long as I can
> remember - maybe even since new.
>
> What to do about it...?  An additional, tactically placed RF filter
> (magnetic doughnut)...?  (There are two inside from the factory.)
>
> Any insight greatly appreciated!
>
> Jed

Hi,

I searched the archives on this but came up empty-handed: is anyone
experiencing an annoying buzzing or humming coming through the audio on the
715?

It sounds like interference - just like video signal leaking into the audio,
though I can't confirm the cause.  It's been doing it for as long as I can
remember - maybe even since new.

What to do about it...?  An additional, tactically placed RF filter
(magnetic doughnut)...?  (There are two inside from the factory.)

Any insight greatly appreciated!

Jed

Hi there,

I finally replaced the crappy Raite 105H drive with a Pioneer DVD-120, and
it works like a charm: MUCH more responsive, and no more hesitation.  The
only issue I¹m still tackling is getting the player¹s smiley-face bezel to
fit the Pioneer without glue and seat properly.  It¹s coming along though.

Before installing it, I visited http://pioneerdvd.rpc1.org/ and downloaded
the RPC-1 (region-/codefree) firmware for it and flashed the drive with the
aid of a bona fide PC (not Mac), so it has no problem playing both my region
1 and region 2 discs.  I highly recommend taking this extra step, which
involves first researching which drives RPC-1 firmware is available for -
but be aware of a couple of caveats.

You must: 1. set the drive to primary slave (and it¹s safest to detach other
CD/DVD drives for this), 2. make absolutely sure you have the CORRECT
firmware for the model (accounting for any OER variants of the drive), by no
means interrupt the process and 4. remember to set the drive back to master
before connecting it to the 715 or it will not even turn on.  Ignoring the
first three pointers may destroy drive(s).

Technically, this procedure will void any warranty left on the drive -
unless you¹re savvy enough to successfully force-flash it back with the
manufacturer¹s firmware, from their website. ;)

No specific pointers on LiteOn, but the basic schema is the same.

Good Luck!

Jed
>
> From: paul@...
> Reply-To: raite-dvd@yahoogroups.com
> Date: Sat, 05 Jun 2004 11:44:38 -0000
> To: raite-dvd@yahoogroups.com
> Subject: [raite-dvd] Will replacing drive fix playback?
>

> I've got a Raite AVPhile 715 and all along it's been problematic with
> some DVDs but not others.  I've upgraded the firmware on the drive and
> the unit, but nothing works.  Will replacing the drive with a Liteon
> or other brand fix playback problems?
>




[Non-text portions of this message have been removed]

can somebody please give an honest opinion on the player's
performance....video as well as audio as I intend to use it as a sole
player at home

I've got a Raite AVPhile 715 and all along it's been problematic with
some DVDs but not others.  I've upgraded the firmware on the drive and
the unit, but nothing works.  Will replacing the drive with a Liteon
or other brand fix playback problems?

I always advocated just getting any drive for which there was an RPC1 hack
available.  I only singled out the LiteOn drives because the hack is just
so easy.  The hack for most drives requires that you re-boot your Windows
machine in DOS mode, but they took this option away after Win98, so
XP/2000 users would have to create a boot disc to get to DOS mode (unless
someone knows where they hid the "reboot in DOS" option.  Plus, once
you're in DOS mode, you need to use BAT files that you need to edit, etc.
It's not difficult it's just a pain.  Someone wrote a little GUI program
to hack the LiteOn drives, which makes the process infinitely simpler.

I would recommend that you start off by searching ebay for DVD-ROM drives,
then when you find one that's at a reasonable price, check
http://www.rpc1.com to see if there's a hack available.

You might want to search for black drives first, but if they're too
expensive, get any color.

Remember, some people say certain brands of drives work better than
others, and some say that certain brands don't work well for this, so do
as much searching through the archives as you feel is warranted.

Rob

> -----Original Message-----
> From: Jed C. P. Dunlap [mailto:jed@...]
> Sent: Saturday, May 08, 2004 2:40 PM
> To: raite-dvd@yahoogroups.com
> Subject: Re: [raite-dvd] Replacement RDR-105H drive for Yamakawa
> AVPhile715
>
>
> Hi Rob,
>
> OK, I have been trying ever since your message of 2 months
> ago to secure a
> Pioneer drive for my 715, to no avail.  Retail RPC-1-capable
> Pioneer drives
> (http://pioneerdvd.rpc1.org/) are incredibly hard to find
> secondhand anymore
> and it seems, much to my surprise, that Pioneer doesn’t
> actually make much
> anymore in the way of new tray-load, straight DVD drives
>
(http://pioneerelectronics.com/pna/bsc/product/album/compare/0,,2076_17573
129,00.html).  Actually, the DVD-120 seems like the only one —
> but I’ve heard
> mixed reviews about that precise model in the context of its
> longevity.
>
> So what was that LiteOn drive you were recommending?  And what RPC-1
> resources have you located on the web for those drives?
>
> Anyone else have any success stories with Pioneer, LiteOn or any other
> models...?
>
> Thanks!
>
> Jed
> >
> > From: "Rob Crowe" <rob1@...>
> > Reply-To: raite-dvd@yahoogroups.com
> > Date: Wed, 3 Mar 2004 07:23:21 -0600
> > To: <raite-dvd@yahoogroups.com>
> > Subject: Re: [raite-dvd] Replacement RDR-105H drive for
> Yamakawa AVPhile715
> >
>
> >> > From: "Jed C. P. Dunlap" <jed@...>
> >>> > > ... most of the sites that I've seen where people
> post how they changes
> > drives
> >>> > > say that they glued the bezel onto the replacement drive ...
> >> >
> >> > Yes, that's what freaked me out!  So it seems - from
> what you say and in
> >> > comparing the bezel to trays of CD-ROMs here on hand -
> that all I'll
> > really
> >> > need is a small pair of wire clippers to trim down the
> tray width a hair.
> >> > With some luck, it will still snap right into place
> without incident...
> >
> > What I did was take a hack-saw and make the inner portion
> of the bezel
> > holding ridge less wide, then I used a utility knife to
> reduce the width of
> > the outer edge.
> >
> >> > Now, just one more question (perhaps a non-issue), and
> I'll be all set to
> > go
> >> > to work: are there any special considerations (caveats)
> one should make
> > with
> >> > regard to a drive's specifications, so that the
> electronics in the 715
> >> > communicate flawlessly with the drive?  Are there specs
> to actively look
> > for
> >> > or avoid?  Obviously the new drive needs to be a
> crackable ATAPI DVD-ROM,
> >> > but - what about playing back the other formats
> particular to the 715: CD,
> >> > VCD, MP3 etc?  What about spin-up lag and read speeds?
> I sense from what
> >> > I've read that noise on faster drives can be a bit of a
> nuisance, but more
> >> > importantly, are you aware of any compatibility issues
> between the 715 and
> >> > specific drives or drives of certain specifications?
> >
> > I think all DVD-ROM drives and play all formats (ie, CD,
> VCD, etc) so that
> > shouldn't be an issue, but I really don't know for sure.
> Check the message
> > archives, some people have posted about dives that work and
> drives they say
> > don't.
> >
> > Rob

Hi Rob,

OK, I have been trying ever since your message of 2 months ago to secure a
Pioneer drive for my 715, to no avail.  Retail RPC-1-capable Pioneer drives
(http://pioneerdvd.rpc1.org/) are incredibly hard to find secondhand anymore
and it seems, much to my surprise, that Pioneer doesn’t actually make much
anymore in the way of new tray-load, straight DVD drives
(http://pioneerelectronics.com/pna/bsc/product/album/compare/0,,2076_1757312
9,00.html).  Actually, the DVD-120 seems like the only one — but I’ve heard
mixed reviews about that precise model in the context of its longevity.

So what was that LiteOn drive you were recommending?  And what RPC-1
resources have you located on the web for those drives?

Anyone else have any success stories with Pioneer, LiteOn or any other
models...?

Thanks!

Jed
>
> From: "Rob Crowe" <rob1@...>
> Reply-To: raite-dvd@yahoogroups.com
> Date: Wed, 3 Mar 2004 07:23:21 -0600
> To: <raite-dvd@yahoogroups.com>
> Subject: Re: [raite-dvd] Replacement RDR-105H drive for Yamakawa AVPhile715
>

>> > From: "Jed C. P. Dunlap" <jed@...>
>>> > > ... most of the sites that I've seen where people post how they changes
> drives
>>> > > say that they glued the bezel onto the replacement drive ...
>> >
>> > Yes, that's what freaked me out!  So it seems - from what you say and in
>> > comparing the bezel to trays of CD-ROMs here on hand - that all I'll
> really
>> > need is a small pair of wire clippers to trim down the tray width a hair.
>> > With some luck, it will still snap right into place without incident...
>
> What I did was take a hack-saw and make the inner portion of the bezel
> holding ridge less wide, then I used a utility knife to reduce the width of
> the outer edge.
>
>> > Now, just one more question (perhaps a non-issue), and I'll be all set to
> go
>> > to work: are there any special considerations (caveats) one should make
> with
>> > regard to a drive's specifications, so that the electronics in the 715
>> > communicate flawlessly with the drive?  Are there specs to actively look
> for
>> > or avoid?  Obviously the new drive needs to be a crackable ATAPI DVD-ROM,
>> > but - what about playing back the other formats particular to the 715: CD,
>> > VCD, MP3 etc?  What about spin-up lag and read speeds?  I sense from what
>> > I've read that noise on faster drives can be a bit of a nuisance, but more
>> > importantly, are you aware of any compatibility issues between the 715 and
>> > specific drives or drives of certain specifications?
>
> I think all DVD-ROM drives and play all formats (ie, CD, VCD, etc) so that
> shouldn't be an issue, but I really don't know for sure.  Check the message
> archives, some people have posted about dives that work and drives they say
> don't.
>
> Rob
>
>
>
>
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