I appreciate Haoda quick response and assistance to my installation
questions. Nice stuff for manual focus, metering is unaffected with
Haoda's screen. I like it!
I use toothpick to remove and install focus screen metal bracket and
is easier and faster than tweezers. There is a small hole on tab of
metal frame, squeeze the toothpick into the small hole, push forward
and lift it out just in seconds. Never have a chance to scratch the
mirror.
I also use toothpick to lift up the screen and bring it out with
tweezers is safer and quicker.
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http://home.pchome.com.tw/society/volgarv/E300/index.html
This link about will show you what is the structure inside E300.
And you can see two wires hold the screen.
There is a better way to change the screen
by picking up the wire (one per one side) a little bit.
Installion is the same, pressing the screen at the right place
and picking up the wire at the screen back to the right place.
Be patient and get the right tool before you do.
A small narrow L-shape stamp picker (I'm not sure the name) is the best.
And you can pratice with your E300 screen before install the new one.
With Haoda's screen, my experience is that
Haoda 's screen is brighter than the orignal one.
That is good for focusing but I need to set EV always +1.
My photos with Haoda's screen and maual focus:
http://www.flickr.com/photos/brentho/search/tags:mf/
>
> I'm considering getting an E300, but I definitely want a split prism
> screen. And I'm worried about the installation. Can you give some
> more details about how it's done? Are there instructions anywhere?
>
> Thanks.
>
--- In screen4DSLR@yahoogroups.com, "brent" <brent_macau@...> wrote:
>
> I search E300 in this group and it seems no E300 user here.
> So I post my E300 Haoda focusing screen testing result.
> I receive my E300 screen today and install it.
> I haven't test it outdoor yet since I got it at night.
> I took one sample with my lamp.
> http://static.flickr.com/41/97114330_3c3db382ba_b.jpg
>
> And It is very nice with my old lens with E300 body.
>
I'm considering getting an E300, but I definitely want a split prism
screen. And I'm worried about the installation. Can you give some
more details about how it's done? Are there instructions anywhere?
Thanks.
Hmm, not so difficult ...
There are two wires holding the focus screen
and you can lift it up a little bit and let the focus screen off.
It is the same to place back the new screen.
lift the wire up ...and put the screen at the right place
Haoda's screen is brighter than E300 original one
I don't know about E500 one.
I always set my body in +1 mode but that is all.
Brighter screen is better for focusing for me.
My old lens are M42 mount and Nikons .
--- In screen4DSLR@yahoogroups.com, "Jay Turberville" <jay@...> wrote:
>
> How difficult was the installation? What lens are you using? Are you
> getting good focus accuracy at fast apertures like f/2.0 or faster?
>
> I'm thinking of putting one of these into either an E-300 or E-500.
>
> Thanks,
>
> Jay Turberville
> www.jayandwanda.com
>
Hi,
Just received my screen a few days ago and had a chance to take some
initial shots. I used my Kiron 105/2.8 macro manual focus lens, and at
f/2.8 it looks like the focus is dead on! It's much easier to focus
than the micro-prism-only aftermarket screen it replaced (although it
did serve its purpose well).
Installation was easy; just remember that for the 300D the shim is
required, and that the shiny side of the screen ought to face downward
(toward the mirror). I adjusted the left-right centering of the screen
by putting all the pieces in place, including the retaining clip at
the end, but just didn't click the clip into place. I looked through
the viewfinder and tapped the body of the camera (left side to make it
go right, and vice-versa) until the screen was centered, and then
gently clipped the clip into place.
Thanks, Haoda!
maurice
> I search E300 in this group and it seems no E300 user here.
> So I post my E300 Haoda focusing screen testing result.
> I receive my E300 screen today and install it.
> I haven't test it outdoor yet since I got it at night.
> I took one sample with my lamp.
> http://static.flickr.com/41/97114330_3c3db382ba_b.jpg
>
> And It is very nice with my old lens with E300 body.
How difficult was the installation? What lens are you using? Are you
getting good focus accuracy at fast apertures like f/2.0 or faster?
I'm thinking of putting one of these into either an E-300 or E-500.
Thanks,
Jay Turberville
www.jayandwanda.com
I search E300 in this group and it seems no E300 user here.
So I post my E300 Haoda focusing screen testing result.
I receive my E300 screen today and install it.
I haven't test it outdoor yet since I got it at night.
I took one sample with my lamp.
http://static.flickr.com/41/97114330_3c3db382ba_b.jpg
And It is very nice with my old lens with E300 body.
And it works well, certainly takes the guesswork out of focussing my
two M42 Pentacon lenses, and the two takumars I have on order.
Fitted in just under 30 seconds - couldn't have been much easier.
very happy: my camera is enhanced.
Just got the spilt screen, let me say it was a fast delivery, Haoda
gave me a 10 business days for shipping ( I requested the diagonal
split screen ), he shipped it long before the due date.
Back to the screen, it took me just less that a minute to install (
had practiced before I received the sreen )tested the screen with the
50mm F1.4 the 24-70mmL, the 70-200mm f2.8L and all photos are tack
sharp, even the nikkors are better with screen, the Canon's are way
much sharp and they manual focus with camera better,found that a
couple of my cheapos say the Vivitar 100mm macro was a bit sharper
after the test, I am not a pro and may not sound like one, I only want
to get good shots and the Haoda screen seem's to be my answer.
p.s.
I noticed that on one side of the round circle of the screen was black
but just when on high F number no big deal.
Hi,
The Nikon D200 screen is in stock.
It use the same raw material as highly
reputable Haoda screen. It is extra bright
microprism and split image 3 in 1 screen.
The price is $72 + shipping and handling
fee.
Best,
Haoda
I just installed one of those with Mr. Haoda Fu's help (He's a very
patient man!), and I'm glad to say it works beautifully!
I have never used the first generation one, but I can't see any
problems with this one.
At first I installed it without the copper shim, which caused focus
error. Mr. Haoda told me that in the case of my 300D, I need to use
the copper shim with the new screens.
After putting the shim back on, result is dead on. I'm very satisfied
with this product.
Dear All,
The new split image screens for 300D 350D and 10D have been released
today!
What's New?
1. Re-designed screens. More precise.
2. They are cut by high precise Laser Computerized Numerical
Controlled Machine.
3. Slightly brighter than before. Especially the center
metering circle.
4. Minimal influence on metering.
The new screen will keep original price ($72) before Feb. 1, 2006.
If you are my old customer, you can trade in your old screen and the
upgrading fee
is only $37+shipping and handling fee.
Best,
Haoda
NOTE:The new screen is still black out for slow lens with max
aperture less than f/6.3.
All aftermark focusing screens for non-full-frame DSLR are modified
screens which from
35mm camera split image focusing screen. The price for those raw
materials are nearly
the same. It is well known that screens are optimized for certain
aperture. Some screens are
optimized for large aperture lens. It is black out for slow lens.
Some screens are
optimized for small aperture lens. It is not black out but not as
precise as the screens
optimized for large aperture lens. It is a trade off. If all of
your lens have max
aperture greater than f/5.6, I recommend your to buy ordinary
screens. If you use the
focusing screen for very slow lens, we can make special order for
you by using focusing
screens which are optimized for slow lens.
I have a 20D with the following lenses:
10-22 EF-S
16-35 f/2.8L
24-70 f/2.8L
70-200 f/2.8L IS
100-400 L
28 f/1.8
85 f/1.8
85 f/1.2 (still in transit)
I had a tough time with the split screen and the 100-400. You had to place
your eye just right in order to use the MF capability.
As for the focusing points. They will still continue to be there since on the
20D, the AF point screen is separate.
Also, I installed the 45 degree version on my friend's 20D and the screen is
noticeably darker (I have the regular horizontal split).
HTH,
Chester
--- mdx1a <mdx1@...> wrote:
> With the replacement screen from you installed, if I enable all 9 AF
> points, will any of them not light up?
>
> With the replacement screen from you installed, if I enable any single
> AF point, will it light up?
>
> My slowest lens is the 100-400 f/4.5-5.6L IS. Occasionally, I want to
> use it with the Tamron 1.4x extender or the Canon EF 1.4X extender,
> will the 20D replacement screen from you allow me to AF and MF without
> the split image circle being darkened?
>
> I also want to purchase the 17-85 f/4-5.6 IS lens for travel, will I
> see the darkened image circle with your focus screen?
>
> My other lenses are: 35 f/2, 85 f/1.8, 135 f/2.8 SF, 17-40 f/4L, 24-70
> f/2.8L and 70-200 f/2.8L IS. Do these lenses work unaffected
> (metering and AF) after the replacement screen from you is installed?
>
> Anyone who have installed the Haoda screen can you please share your
> experience.
>
> Thank you for your help!
>
> Nelson Chen
>
>
>
>
>
>
>
__________________________________________________
Do You Yahoo!?
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http://mail.yahoo.com
I am considering replacing the focus screen in my 20D but have a few
questions.
With the replacement screen from you installed, if I enable all 9 AF
points, will any of them not light up?
With the replacement screen from you installed, if I enable any single
AF point, will it light up?
My slowest lens is the 100-400 f/4.5-5.6L IS. Occasionally, I want to
use it with the Tamron 1.4x extender or the Canon EF 1.4X extender,
will the 20D replacement screen from you allow me to AF and MF without
the split image circle being darkened?
I also want to purchase the 17-85 f/4-5.6 IS lens for travel, will I
see the darkened image circle with your focus screen?
My other lenses are: 35 f/2, 85 f/1.8, 135 f/2.8 SF, 17-40 f/4L, 24-70
f/2.8L and 70-200 f/2.8L IS. Do these lenses work unaffected
(metering and AF) after the replacement screen from you is installed?
Anyone who have installed the Haoda screen can you please share your
experience.
Thank you for your help!
Nelson Chen
I understand you can provide the focus screen for the Olympus E1. I
search thru the group there I can find just 1 people inquired about
your screen for E1. Do you have any review or people's comment about
your screen on E1? Also I understand E1 is built to user replceable
focus screen. How hard is to replce the focus screen on E1? I'm not
handly. What tools I need to do the job? Thank you!
Stan
I understand Haoda now providing screen for Olympus E1 which I read on
ebay. I just wondering you have any people's review or comment on the
Haoda screen and E1. Does it affect the metering? I also understand
the E1 design for user replacable focus screen. How hard is to replace
it? What tools I need? Thank you!
Stan
Yes, it works for D70s. You can place the order from ebay
when you check out by paypal, leave a note for me to tell
me your need the screen for D70s.
Best,
Haoda
jrosen2 <joel.rosen@...> wrote:
I note that your screens are available for the D70 and would assume that is would work on the D70s. How does one order it as your eBay site only indicates Canon models, and the installation instructions also only indicate Canon models.
I note that your screens are available for the D70 and would assume
that is would work on the D70s. How does one order it as your eBay
site only indicates Canon models, and the installation instructions
also only indicate Canon models.
Yes, our screen shows the crop factor.
The outer is shaded.
Best,
Haoda
--- In screen4DSLR@yahoogroups.com, "seattleredformula"
<seattleredformula@y...> wrote:
>
> The original SD9/SD10 screen shows ~130% of image area (due to crop
> factor) but the outer adge is shaded to show the user that it will
not
> be part of the actual image. Does this new screen also shade the
> outer portion so the user can see exactly where the actual image area
> is?
>
The original SD9/SD10 screen shows ~130% of image area (due to crop
factor) but the outer adge is shaded to show the user that it will not
be part of the actual image. Does this new screen also shade the
outer portion so the user can see exactly where the actual image area
is?
Yeah, I have read a ton on the Katz eye, but for me, the high price and
metering issues are just not worth it. I suppose I will give Haoda's
screen a try. It will still be useful for all of my other lenses since
they are fast, but my 400/5.6 will be the challenge. Love this lense
though, so I hope it will work. I normally use it with good light and
contrast, so hopefully this helps the split screen performance.
I don't have a 5.6 prime.
However, I do have zooms that are 5.6 at longer focul lengths like the new Canon
70-300f/4-5.6 and the 17-85f/4-5.6 IS.
The split image functions at 4 and you can push it to 5, but at 5.6 you need to
concentrate on the "right" position of your eye; otherwise half of the split
screen "blacks out".
This is quality is on par with any split screens used in the film SLRs.
There are other screens available on the market like Katz, that doesn't black
out, however the metering is distorted and you have to manually adjust the
metering. To me, it wasn't worth the extra headache.
You can imagine if someone else takes a picture, you have to set up the metering
for them. What a pain.
On Saturday, December 17, 2005, at 00:25AM, James <jameskay@...> wrote:
>
><<Original Attached>>
OK, I have read so many threads about this topic that I am dizzy, but I
need a straight answer. I have read that the split image focusser
starts to darken with small aperatures (5.6 and smaller). While most
of my lenses are faster than that, I do a lot of work with the Canon
400/5.6 prime. I generally shoot wide open at 5.6 but find a split
focusser would help a lot with this lense.
Can anybody relate specific experience with a 5.6 max aperature lense?
Even better if it was the 400/5.6. I am using the 20D body.
It works on f/5.6. There is a post on the same lens and same camera
It is said
"I've got it. I found no effect on metering and it's effective even up to f/8 ... just. You lose the microprisms by f/5.6 but the split screen (the most useful bit) still works. The smaller the aperture the more critical it is that you align your eye directly with the split screen. Move your eye left or right a bit and one half will go black at f/5.6 and smaller. Also, it is a matte screen and under some low lighting conditions the matte becomes slightly visible. Overall the benefit of pinpoint accuracy in focusing is definitely worth it."
OK, I have read so many threads about this topic that I am dizzy, but I need a straight answer. I have read that the split image focusser starts to darken with small aperatures (5.6 and smaller). While most of my lenses are faster than that, I do a lot of work with the Canon 400/5.6 prime. I generally shoot wide open at 5.6 but find a split focusser would help a lot
with this lense.
Can anybody relate specific experience with a 5.6 max aperature lense? Even better if it was the 400/5.6. I am using the 20D body.
OK, I have read so many threads about this topic that I am dizzy, but I
need a straight answer. I have read that the split image focusser
starts to darken with small aperatures (5.6 and smaller). While most
of my lenses are faster than that, I do a lot of work with the Canon
400/5.6 prime. I generally shoot wide open at 5.6 but find a split
focusser would help a lot with this lense.
Can anybody relate specific experience with a 5.6 max aperature lense?
Even better if it was the 400/5.6. I am using the 20D body.
How usable is the Haoda screen with this lense.
Thanks!