At this point, there's not a ton of difference other than it is more
consistent in its behaviour.  And much cleaner sounding.  I think the
channel strips will make a big difference though.

We'll see.   I recently spoke to the guy at Wes Dooley's and he said
these consoles don't ever need to be recapped.  I find that hard to
believe.   I'm told the caps do dry out and only have a life time of
20+ years.  I hope I'm not doing it for nothing!


On Sep 2, 2006, at 6:00 PM, Alan Read wrote:

> Steve, did you notice any difference in the master and if so, what?
>
>
> Alan
>
> <><
>
> On Sep 2, 2006, at 5:07 PM, Steve Goldberger wrote:
>
>> Hi Guys,
>>
>> I'm in the process of slowly having mine recapped. I think I still
>> have the total list of caps somewhere and I could scan it and send it
>> to anyone that wants it. A good friend/tech is doing it for me as I
>> have no idea about that stuff.... He's done the master strip so far
>> and so good. I'm waiting for the first channel to be done so we can
>> a/b a before/after comparison. I'll let you know.
>>
>> Steve
>> www.stevegoldberger.com
>>
>> On Sep 2, 2006, at 3:44 PM, david odell wrote:
>>
>> > I'm doing everything i can myself. ive already changed 4 overheated
>> > resistors on all 36
>> > channels. You just gotta be careful pulling them out as the traces
>> > are easy to rip out! this has
>> > happened to me on about 6 of the 36 channels. It's no fun running
>> > jumpers on the board. As
>> > for the soldering gun....DON'T USE A SOLDING GUN!!!! the tip is too
>> > big. Use a solding iron.
>> > I'm using a Weller 25w iron with a fine tip. I bought it at Lowes in
>> > the welding section of the
>> > tool dept. you really do't want to go much higher in watts with the
>> > iron because you will
>> > overheat the board, and possibly ruin the traces. it seems the
>> traces
>> > are a common problem
>> > with the console. i bought my console as is, and it already had a
>> few
>> > jumps made on some of
>> > the channels. thanks for the info Jeff, Some of the caps are even
>> the
>> > wrong uf#!!! But what
>> > about the voltage? the replacement caps have a different voltage
>> too,
>> > is this what is causing
>> > the lower volume? i will replace the caps in the VCAs too just to do
>> > it. Thanks for the info,
>> > Dave
>> >
>> >
>> >
>
>
>

On the back of the power supply heatsink are 3 transistors that control the +/-
18 volt and
the 24 volt. I have blown these from time to time and have a few, usually when
the power
goes out. Everybody should have extras. Let me know if anyone needs these.

Alan

<><

Hi Guys,

I'm in the process of slowly having mine recapped.   I think I still
have the total list of caps somewhere and I could scan it and send it
to anyone that wants it.   A good friend/tech is doing it for me as I
have no idea about that stuff....  He's done the master strip so far
and so good.   I'm waiting for the first channel to be done so we can
a/b a before/after comparison.  I'll let you know.

Steve
www.stevegoldberger.com

On Sep 2, 2006, at 3:44 PM, david odell wrote:

> I'm doing everything i can myself. ive already changed 4 overheated
> resistors on all 36
>  channels. You just gotta be careful pulling them out as the traces
> are easy to rip out! this has
>  happened to me on about 6 of the 36 channels. It's no fun running
> jumpers on the board. As
>  for the soldering gun....DON'T USE A SOLDING GUN!!!! the tip is too
> big. Use a solding iron.
>  I'm using a Weller 25w iron with a fine tip. I bought it at Lowes in
> the welding section of the
>  tool dept. you really do't want to go much higher in watts with the
> iron because you will
>  overheat the board, and possibly ruin the traces. it seems the traces
> are a common problem
>  with the console. i bought my console as is, and it already had a few
> jumps made on some of
>  the channels. thanks for the info Jeff, Some of the caps are even the
> wrong uf#!!! But what
>  about the voltage? the replacement caps have a different voltage too,
> is this what is causing
>  the lower volume? i will replace the caps in the VCAs too just to do
> it. Thanks for the info,
>  Dave
>
>
>

I'm doing everything i can myself. ive already changed 4 overheated resistors on
all 36
channels. You just gotta be careful pulling them out as the traces are easy to
rip out! this has
happened to me on about 6 of the 36 channels. It's no fun running jumpers on the
board. As
for the soldering gun....DON'T USE A SOLDING GUN!!!! the tip is too big. Use a
solding iron.
I'm using a Weller 25w iron with a fine tip. I bought it at Lowes in the welding
section of the
tool dept. you really do't want to go much higher in watts with the iron because
you will
overheat the board, and possibly ruin the traces. it seems the traces are a
common problem
with the console. i bought my console as is, and it already had a few jumps made
on some of
the channels. thanks for the info Jeff, Some of the caps are even the wrong
uf#!!! But what
about the voltage? the replacement caps have a different voltage too, is this
what is causing
the lower volume? i will replace the caps in the VCAs too just to do it. Thanks
for the info,
Dave

On Saturday, September 2, 2006, at 02:33 PM, Alan Read wrote:

> Hey Dave. I've sent an email to a guy named Henry Jablonski. Not sure
> if you know him or not but he worked on these consoles (my
> understanding is he designed them but I could be wrong) and knows a
> bit about them.

I had a factory guy named Henry from Sony Florida come up once to suss
out some power supply problems we had (back when Sony was still
supporting these consoles.....a bunch of years ago!!!) when the guys
from Teaneck were stumped.  I think he might be the same guy...Very
knowledgeable! I've often wondered if he was still around. If it's him,
he'd be a GREAT resource!

> I would love to see what sound difference I would have with a cap job.
> Are you doing this yourself or having someone else do it? I'd be
> interested in knowing. I'd attempt it but- and this is pretty stupid-
> I can't find a decent solder gun and holding apparatus. If you have a
> suggestion for that......
>

And if you've got the capabilities, maybe you could run some frequency
sweeps and noise/distortion tests on a couple of modules before and
after???

Do you have a scope? You could run a 100Hz or 1Khz square wave through
each channel and look at it on the scope, and see if the bad channels
look different compared to the good ones. You can tell lot quickly that
way (I have to admit I haven't done this myself, and my own console is
not set up to try this at the moment...looking for a place right now!)

Jeff


> Alan
>
> <><

On Saturday, September 2, 2006, at 01:45 PM, david odell wrote:

> This is what i wrote on Gearslutz...
>
> I want to recap my MXP-3036 and need to know some capacitor info. Ive
> noticed that the
> channels that sound muddy or have a low volume level have some of the
> original caps
> replaced with larger voltage caps, for example, the original cap is a
> 100uf 16v and it was
> replaced with a 100uf 35v. The newer replaced caps are also alot
> smaller in size. Could this
> be the problem?

It's not uncommon for new capacitors of the same value to be smaller
than older designs, but double-check to make sure that the original
parts weren't replaced with polarized caps. If I remember correctly,
ALL of the de-coupling caps in the signal path were originally
non-polarized.  I think the only polarized caps are power supply
filtering or bypass caps.  Of course, I discovered this AFTER I bought
a big bunch of polarized caps for my console...duh!  Anyone need new
polarized caps for anything....Cheap!  :-}

> My other question is what is the best replacement to replace the caps
> with? I
> know that a higher temp rating is one thing to do

Yes...warm console....

> and Nichicon is a good brand, but what
> else is there to know?? should i replace all caps??(ceramic, mylar,
> poly film?)

Just the electolytics, they dry out over time. The others should be
just fine. Maybe someone else can chime in with brand recommendations
here....I'd like to hear some suggestions myself!

>  oh and the cap
> im trying to replace are Electrolytic non-polarized and polarized
> capacitors.
>
> the list of caps i need/want to change are 220uf 35v Electrolytic cap,
> 47uf 16v Electrolytic
> cap, 100uf 16v non-polar Electrolytic cap and 220uf 16v non-polar
> Electrolytic cap. these are
> the ones i want to change for now. but are there any "upgrade" cap i
> should use?
>
> thanks, dave
>

One other suggestion for everyone:

Check the VCAs for "jitter". Run the oscillator thru each channel and
set the fader so the 2-mix meter reads around zero. You'll notice
"steps" of about a third of a dB as you move the fader but the meters
should be dead steady. But if the level dances around, and you can't
find a spot on the fader that holds steady, then you're getting noise
in the fader reference voltage because the power supply bypass caps on
the fader board have gone bad and clock noise from the automation
system is leaking into the reference voltage rail.

You need to replace the caps on all the fader module boards--on the
AFB-II board it's C29 and C30, they're the ones right by the edge
connector and next to the torroidal coil, and C27 and 28 by the 5V
regulator. While I'm in there, I usually replace all the other electros
too, they're pretty old by now. Be careful when desoldering C11,
there's a fine trace on the PC board right there that's easily damaged.

You'll almost certainly need to do ALL the faders, unless you can
figure which ones are the culprits. It only takes one bad fader to
pooch up the whole console!  You could pull all the faders and
re-install them in one at a time and see which ones cause the problem,
but it's best to just hit 'em all. Took me about 5 or 6 hours on the
36-channel console I did recently.

This is what i wrote on Gearslutz...

I want to recap my MXP-3036 and need to know some capacitor info. Ive noticed
that the
channels that sound muddy or have a low volume level have some of the original
caps
replaced with larger voltage caps, for example, the original cap is a 100uf 16v
and it was
replaced with a 100uf 35v. The newer replaced caps are also alot smaller in
size. Could this
be the problem? My other question is what is the best replacement to replace the
caps with? I
know that a higher temp rating is one thing to do and Nichicon is a good brand,
but what
else is there to know?? should i replace all caps??(ceramic, mylar, poly film?)
oh and the cap
im trying to replace are Electrolytic non-polarized and polarized capacitors.

the list of caps i need/want to change are 220uf 35v Electrolytic cap, 47uf 16v
Electrolytic
cap, 100uf 16v non-polar Electrolytic cap and 220uf 16v non-polar Electrolytic
cap. these are
the ones i want to change for now. but are there any "upgrade" cap i should use?

thanks, dave

Ive just joined this group today and i often go to Gearslutz. You could try "So
much gear, so
little time". You posted in the Geekslutz forum which is a forum for techie
geekie guys to
Debate diodes, talk tubes, evaluate the potential of potentiometers and the
like. I so
happened to see your post because I'm recapping my MXP console and had a few
capacitor
questions. Not all the MXP owners are techs, You will have better luck in "So
much gear, so
little time" forum. hope this helps.

And does anybody hang out on Gearslutz??

Jeff

On Friday, September 1, 2006, at 11:13 AM, Douglas Ferguson wrote:

> Where shoudl we advertise the group?

I'll drop a post in rec.audio.pro.

And I sent an invite to Blevins audio exchange...

Jeff

On Friday, September 1, 2006, at 11:13 AM, Douglas Ferguson wrote:

> Where shoudl we advertise the group?
>

Hey guys!

Looks like my forum post dug up a few members. Please spread the word!

I'm currently trying to figure out how to convert my console to
passive faders. It looks like I'll have to do a circuit board layout
for the fader amp boards and lay them out so they screw onto the vca
fader package frame.

I'm actually in Niagara on the Lake which is where my studio is
located.   It's about and hour and a half from Toronto and just across
the river from Lewiston NY.

Steve



On Aug 31, 2006, at 11:46 PM, Jeff Chestek wrote:

> Andee and I try to get up to Toronto every year for a few days, and
>  I've got a friend/fellow engineer who's expecting to move up there in
>  the next 9 months or so. Whereabouts are you?
>
>  Jeff
>
>  On Thursday, August 31, 2006, at 08:46 PM, Steve Goldberger wrote:
>
>  > Thanks so much for the offer Jeff. But I'm in the Niagara/Toronto
>  > area and it wouldn't be
>  > too practical. I'll just have to keep my eyes open for one.
>  >
>  > Steve
>  >
>  >
>  >
>  > --- In sony-mxp-3k@yahoogroups.com, Jeff Chestek <jchestek@...>
> wrote:
>  >>
>  >> If you're in the Philly area, I'll lend you my channel strip
> extender,
>  >> but I'm not interested in giving it up!!!
>  >>
>
>
>

Andee and I try to get up to Toronto every year for a few days, and
I've got a friend/fellow engineer who's expecting to move up there in
the next 9 months or so. Whereabouts are you?

Jeff

On Thursday, August 31, 2006, at 08:46 PM, Steve Goldberger wrote:

> Thanks so much for the offer Jeff.  But I'm in the Niagara/Toronto
> area and it wouldn't be
> too practical.   I'll just have to keep my eyes open for one.
>
> Steve
>
>
>
> --- In sony-mxp-3k@yahoogroups.com, Jeff Chestek <jchestek@...> wrote:
>>
>> If you're in the Philly area, I'll lend you my channel strip extender,
>> but I'm not interested in giving it up!!!
>>

Thanks so much for the offer Jeff.  But I'm in the Niagara/Toronto area and it
wouldn't be
too practical.   I'll just have to keep my eyes open for one.

Steve



--- In sony-mxp-3k@yahoogroups.com, Jeff Chestek <jchestek@...> wrote:
>
> If you're in the Philly area, I'll lend you my channel strip extender,
> but I'm not interested in giving it up!!!
>
> Sorry, no manual faders....
>
> I've got a broken key on my infrared remote, if anyone's parting with
> one of those!
>
> Jeff
>
> On Thursday, August 31, 2006, at 12:28 PM, Steve Goldberger wrote:
>
> > Hi guys,
> >
> > I am looking for the following items.  If any one has these or hears
> > of any, please let me
> > know.
> >
> > Thanks,
> > Steve
> >
> > 2 manual faders
> >
> > channel strip extender
> >
>

If you're in the Philly area, I'll lend you my channel strip extender,
but I'm not interested in giving it up!!!

Sorry, no manual faders....

I've got a broken key on my infrared remote, if anyone's parting with
one of those!

Jeff

On Thursday, August 31, 2006, at 12:28 PM, Steve Goldberger wrote:

> Hi guys,
>
> I am looking for the following items.  If any one has these or hears
> of any, please let me
> know.
>
> Thanks,
> Steve
>
> 2 manual faders
>
> channel strip extender
>

Hi guys,

I am looking for the following items.  If any one has these or hears of any,
please let me
know.

Thanks,
Steve

2 manual faders

channel strip extender