Charlotte,
 
I may be biased, but after working for a few of the bigger players in the
industry, I don't think you can do much better than XP Software and the xpstorm
software.
 
www.xpsoftware.com
 


--- On Wed, 7/2/08, charlotte_gallock <charlotte_gallock@...> wrote:

From: charlotte_gallock <charlotte_gallock@...>
Subject: [StormwaterPro] Storm drainage system modeling software
To: stormwaterpro@yahoogroups.com
Date: Wednesday, July 2, 2008, 12:54 PM






What is the best software to use for storm drainage system modeling?


















[Non-text portions of this message have been removed]

What is the best software to use for storm drainage system modeling?

The City of Rocky Mount is seeking qualified applicants for the below
position.  If interested, please contact the City of Rocky Mount Human
Resources Department at (252) 972-1186 or download an application at
www.rockymountnc.gov <http://www.rockymountnc.gov/> .





Monday, April 7, 2008 - Friday, May 2, 2008



STORMWATER ENGINEER (Engineering/Civil)

$49,243.43 - $76,327.34

Professional work in planning, designing and reviewing the components of
the City's stormwater system and regulatory oversight of development
projects for compliance with City regulations and standards relating to
stormwater management, roadway construction and erosion control.  Work
involves directing, leading and managing employees within the Civil
Administration Division; evaluating development plans for compliance
with City and State stormwater and erosion control requirements;
supervising the Construction Inspectors; preparing hydraulic analysis
and other engineering studies to evaluate alternatives and making
recommendations for future stormwater capital improvement needs;
analyzing construction cost estimates, proposals, quotations and bids
for City projects; designing work such as preparation and oversight of
engineering drawings, data research, computations and cost estimates;
preparing specifications and technical reports and schedules for City
projects.

REQUIREMENTS:  Bachelor's degree in Civil Engineering from an accredited
college or university; EI certificate and one year of experience in the
practice of civil engineering; possession of a valid driver's license.

HOURS:  37.5 hours per week; 8:30 a.m. - 5:00 p.m., Monday - Friday and
as needed.



APPLY TO: HUMAN RESOURCES DEPT.                     EQUAL OPPORTUNITY
EMPLOYER

                        P.O. BOX 1180
(252) 972-1186 / FAX (252) 972-1197

                        ROCKY MOUNT, NC 27802
www.rockymountnc.gov





Blair Hinkle

Assistant Director & Stormwater Manager

Department of Public Works

City of Rocky Mount

t: 252 972 1340     f: 252 972 1176

http://publicworks.rockymountnc.gov
<http://publicworks.rockymountnc.gov>



[Non-text portions of this message have been removed]

--- In stormwaterpro@yahoogroups.com, "Norman MacLeod" <gaelwolf@...>
wrote:
>
>
> REPOSTING for group member
>
>
> FROM: kalivanagas@...
> DATE: Sun, 02 Mar 2008 20:27:24 -0000
> SUBJECT: New to group- snow melt drainage problems, help!
>
> For the last 13 years, my family has been battling a swampy yard
and
> water in our crawl space. We have three $500 sump pumps but that
> doesn't fix the yard. It's so bad that the dogs don't even want to
go
> outside. Our yard extends about 8' out from our house with two
12x15'
> areas on either side of the house. It's a flat lot and there are
berms
> separating the flooded common area from our property but our house
is
> in the low spot. We have lawn, bark, aspens, and some native brush.
> What can we do to get rid of all this water??? Thanks
>
   A frenchdrain system just might be the answer. Just run your
outflows thur the berms. I had to do the same issue for a rain garden
from my house. I to have a pertty flat yard, but i have a wetland
area back there too. Something to think about.

Awesome, this specific advice is going to be really helpful. I will write the
stormwater guy
from the city today and ask about regulations.
Thanks,
Kali


--- In stormwaterpro@yahoogroups.com, lsoukup@... wrote:
>
>
> Ask if the city has a regulation requiring owners to correct drainage
> problems caused by their sites on adjacent properties.  If so, it could
> make the owner of the open space behind your house regrade that parcel so
> runoff drains from your house lots into the open area.  The owner (the golf
> course?) could grade the open parcel so it's lower than the surrounding
> house lots and install a swale in the center, The swale should extend
> downstream to discharge where it won't impact other existing development.
> If the open space parcel owner says the problem was caused by lousy grading
> from the house developer, the lot builder/residential developer could
> proffer to regrade the open space parcel, even if they don't own it -
> they'd just need a temporary grading easement from the open space owner to
> do so.
>
> Regrading would impact some existing trees in the open space, but the
> parcel could be reforested after getting the grades right.  The adjacent
> house lots may need regrading as well to get positive drainage from these
> lots to the regraded open space parcel.  Given the poor infiltration
> capacity, improving the surface conveyance is a good bet especially to make
> sure drainage works when the ground is frozen.
>
> If there's no legal authority to force the open space owner to do this, try
> for a negotiated agreement between the golf course & the lot builder to
> share the cost of this improvement.  Ask the city council members or other
> elected officials to  get involved in bringing the private parties to the
> table.  Get your civic/homeowners association and as many lot owners
> together as possible on petitions, letters & emails to push for this, and
> push for firm dates on completion of design and construction - preferably
> before next winter.  Articles in the local papers might also be useful in
> encouraging the private parties to participate.
>
> ~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~
> Lise Soukup, P.E., Civil Engineer II
> City of Rockville Department of Public Works
> 111 Maryland Avenue
> Rockville, MD 20850
> Lsoukup@...
> Desk: (240) 314-8515             DPW Main: (240) 314-8500 Fax: (240)
> 314-8539
> City's website:  www.rockvillemd.gov
> ~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~
>
>
>
>              "kalibailey11"
>              <kalivanagas@gmai
>              l.com>                                                     To
>              Sent by:                  stormwaterpro@yahoogroups.com
>              stormwaterpro@yah                                          cc
>              oogroups.com
>                                                                    Subject
>                                        [StormwaterPro] City said that it's
>              03/13/2008 05:01          not their problem
>              PM
>
>
>              Please respond to
>              stormwaterpro@yah
>                oogroups.com
>
>
>
>
>
>
>
>
>
>
>
>  Here is what the city said about the water problems around our house:
>
>  "I was out in your area on other business yesterday and looked at the
drainage
>  problems
>  you mentioned.
>
>  All of the Broken Top development is private streets and drainage so there is
>  little the City
>  can do to help alleviate the drainage problems.
>
>  The entire area is in what we call a problem drainage area. The soils and
geology
>  are not
>  conducive to infiltration. You have probably heard or read about the drainage
>  problems at
>  Summit High School. We have had several reports of wet crawl spaces in Broken
Top.
>  Prior
>  to development, the soils were loose and able to retain stormwater. With
>  development,
>  the soils were compacted or removed and a lot of impervious roofs and
pavement
>  meant
>  that there was less and less soil available to absorb the water. Water
applied to
>  the golf
>  courses (or other turf, for that matter)keeps the golf course soils wet and
>  reduces their
>  ability to absorb rainwater. In January and February, the soils of Central
Oregon
>  froze to a
>  depth of several inches. It has taken quite a while for the soil to thaw.
Frozen
>  soil has no
>  infiltration capacity at all and this surely added to the problem as the snow
>  began to melt.
>
>  I wish I could offer some suggestions but it is a difficult problem."
>
>  Ok, so what's the next step?
>  Thanks,
>  Kali
>
>
>
>
>
> [Non-text portions of this message have been removed]
>

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Victor Lo - Canada
Ken Ashley - Canada

Mark van Loosdrecht - Netherlands

Simon Parsons - UK
Tim Evans - UK
Dr. Heinzmann - Germany

Rob Simm - USA





From: Scope Newsletter, ceep-mailing@...









Details:

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This conference will bring together the various waste stream industries,
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Abstracts are solicited in particular in the following areas:

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§        Process design and plant integration

§        Marketing and use of recovered nutrient products

§        Struvite, K- Struvite and calcium phosphate precipitation

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In addition, there will be an Open Session, devoted to "new thinking" for this
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Barnard (2007 Clarke Prize) will be the Keynote Speaker and will address the
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ABSTRACT DEADLINE: March 28th, 2008.

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(2-page single-spaced maximum, with additional 2 pages of tables or figures):

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#100-873 Beatty Street - Vancouver, B.C. - V6B 2M6 - Canada

Fax: 604 681-2503   -     E-mail: mmori@...



This conference is hosted by the Department of Civil Engineering of the
University of British Columbia (UBC) and chaired by Dr. D.S. Mavinic, Professor
of Civil and Environmental Engineering, UBC. Sponsors include:

   a.. The University of British Columbia (UBC) http://www.civil.ubc.ca/pcwm/
   b.. Global Phosphate Forum www.phosphate-forum.org
   c.. The Chartered Institution of Water and Environmental Management (CIWEM)
www.ciwem.org
   d.. Ostara Research Foundation (ORF) www.ostara.com



[Non-text portions of this message have been removed]

Ask if the city has a regulation requiring owners to correct drainage
problems caused by their sites on adjacent properties.  If so, it could
make the owner of the open space behind your house regrade that parcel so
runoff drains from your house lots into the open area.  The owner (the golf
course?) could grade the open parcel so it's lower than the surrounding
house lots and install a swale in the center, The swale should extend
downstream to discharge where it won't impact other existing development.
If the open space parcel owner says the problem was caused by lousy grading
from the house developer, the lot builder/residential developer could
proffer to regrade the open space parcel, even if they don't own it -
they'd just need a temporary grading easement from the open space owner to
do so.

Regrading would impact some existing trees in the open space, but the
parcel could be reforested after getting the grades right.  The adjacent
house lots may need regrading as well to get positive drainage from these
lots to the regraded open space parcel.  Given the poor infiltration
capacity, improving the surface conveyance is a good bet especially to make
sure drainage works when the ground is frozen.

If there's no legal authority to force the open space owner to do this, try
for a negotiated agreement between the golf course & the lot builder to
share the cost of this improvement.  Ask the city council members or other
elected officials to  get involved in bringing the private parties to the
table.  Get your civic/homeowners association and as many lot owners
together as possible on petitions, letters & emails to push for this, and
push for firm dates on completion of design and construction - preferably
before next winter.  Articles in the local papers might also be useful in
encouraging the private parties to participate.

~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~
Lise Soukup, P.E., Civil Engineer II
City of Rockville Department of Public Works
111 Maryland Avenue
Rockville, MD 20850
Lsoukup@...
Desk: (240) 314-8515             DPW Main: (240) 314-8500 Fax: (240)
314-8539
City's website:  www.rockvillemd.gov
~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~



              "kalibailey11"
              <kalivanagas@gmai
              l.com>                                                     To
              Sent by:                  stormwaterpro@yahoogroups.com
              stormwaterpro@yah                                          cc
              oogroups.com
                                                                    Subject
                                        [StormwaterPro] City said that it's
              03/13/2008 05:01          not their problem
              PM


              Please respond to
              stormwaterpro@yah
                oogroups.com











  Here is what the city said about the water problems around our house:

  "I was out in your area on other business yesterday and looked at the drainage
  problems
  you mentioned.

  All of the Broken Top development is private streets and drainage so there is
  little the City
  can do to help alleviate the drainage problems.

  The entire area is in what we call a problem drainage area. The soils and
geology
  are not
  conducive to infiltration. You have probably heard or read about the drainage
  problems at
  Summit High School. We have had several reports of wet crawl spaces in Broken
Top.
  Prior
  to development, the soils were loose and able to retain stormwater. With
  development,
  the soils were compacted or removed and a lot of impervious roofs and pavement
  meant
  that there was less and less soil available to absorb the water. Water applied
to
  the golf
  courses (or other turf, for that matter)keeps the golf course soils wet and
  reduces their
  ability to absorb rainwater. In January and February, the soils of Central
Oregon
  froze to a
  depth of several inches. It has taken quite a while for the soil to thaw.
Frozen
  soil has no
  infiltration capacity at all and this surely added to the problem as the snow
  began to melt.

  I wish I could offer some suggestions but it is a difficult problem."

  Ok, so what's the next step?
  Thanks,
  Kali





[Non-text portions of this message have been removed]

The fact that Broken Top is a private development doesn't mean someone
in the city didn't give the development overall permission to construct.
If so, it had to follow state/local drainage standards.

With respect to the issue of native plants, yes, they will eventually
help break up compacted soil, but ones planted in the proper mix with
compost and sand will certainly grow bigger and thrive longer.  It does
take about three years for natives to really establish themselves.  If
you decide to go that route, make sure you buy plugs or plants from a
nursery that specializes in natives; the native plants should be ones
from an area no more than about 50 miles away from you.  Cultivars of
natives do not have the same benefits, even though they may be sold in
regular nurseries or discount stores.  You will have better luck in
establishing plugs or 4" pot plants than you will in establishing seeds.
It is also possible to buy or rent a small rototiller at a hardware or
garden center and also on-line.  The rototiller will do a bit to break
up the compacted soil  The coolest version of this was a creation of
Dwayne Stenlund, a certified erosion control inspector here with our
Minnesota Department of Transportaton.  It's basically a vehicle with a
rotating drum in front.  On the outside of the drum are welded trowels
which dig up the compacted earth as it moves along.

Susanne P. Spitzer, AICP
Minnesota Pollution Control Agency
Municipal Division
520 Lafayette Rd. N.
St. Paul, MN 55155-4194
Tel: 651-296-7723
Fax: 651-297-2343 or 651-297-8683
susanne.spitzer@...

www.pca.state.mn.us - Working with Minnesotans to protect
conserve and improve our environment and enhance our quality of life.

"Use what talents you possess; The woods would be very silent if no
birds sang there except those that sang best."  - - William Blake





-----Original Message-----
From: stormwaterpro@yahoogroups.com
[mailto:stormwaterpro@yahoogroups.com] On Behalf Of kalibailey11
Sent: Thursday, March 13, 2008 4:01 PM
To: stormwaterpro@yahoogroups.com
Subject: [StormwaterPro] City said that it's not their problem


Here is what the city said about the water problems around our house:

"I was out in your area on other business yesterday and looked at the
drainage problems
you mentioned.

All of the Broken Top development is private streets and drainage so
there is little the City
can do to help alleviate the drainage problems.

The entire area is in what we call a problem drainage area.  The soils
and geology are not
conducive to infiltration.  You have probably heard or read about the
drainage problems at
Summit High School.  We have had several reports of wet crawl spaces in
Broken Top.  Prior
to development, the soils were loose and able to retain stormwater.
With development,
the soils were compacted or removed and a lot of impervious roofs and
pavement meant
that there was less and less soil available to absorb the water.  Water
applied to the golf
courses (or other turf, for that matter)keeps the golf course soils wet
and reduces their
ability to absorb rainwater.  In January and February, the soils of
Central Oregon froze to a
depth of several inches.  It has taken quite a while for the soil to
thaw.  Frozen soil has no
infiltration capacity at all and this surely added to the problem as the
snow began to melt.

I wish I could offer some suggestions but it is a difficult problem."

Ok, so what's the next step?
Thanks,
Kali


------------------------------------

Don't forget to use the StormwaterPro resources
available at:

    http://www.egroups.com/group/stormwaterpro

he StormwaterPro resources
available at:

    http://www.egroups.com/group/stormwaterpro

Yahoo! Groups Links

Kali,

One or two of the previous answers to your posts mentioned plants,
trees and landscaping; so I did not respond before.  However, after
reading the response from the City, in which is mentioned the
compacted soils, I thought I'd chip in a thought I had earlier.

That is, to plant grasses (native if possible) that will put down
deep, deep roots.  Deep meaning many feet, not many inches.  And
plant them starting as far upland as possible at down toward your
house.

Will this work, will it have any impact?  I don't know myself by
experience, but I have heard stories and heard specialists explain
how the roots of plants, if left in a hard packed soil, will
gradually loosen the soil.  (This may assume, I'm not sure, that dry
periods will force the plants to dig the roots deep year after
year.)  And, it's been explained to me that the soil loosened by the
roots, will accept much more water than shallow rooted soil.

If you already have much of such type of plants in the area...well,
no help here then, but I bet you don't - not to the extent that you
could have it.

Also, depending on the plants, this is not a quick fix, but overall
taking maybe two-three years.  Consult your botanist.

--- In stormwaterpro@yahoogroups.com, "kalibailey11"
<kalivanagas@...> wrote:
>
> Here is what the city said about the water problems around our
house:
>
> "I was out in your area on other business yesterday and looked at
the drainage problems
> you mentioned.
>

Here is what the city said about the water problems around our house:

"I was out in your area on other business yesterday and looked at the drainage
problems
you mentioned.

All of the Broken Top development is private streets and drainage so there is
little the City
can do to help alleviate the drainage problems.

The entire area is in what we call a problem drainage area.  The soils and
geology are not
conducive to infiltration.  You have probably heard or read about the drainage
problems at
Summit High School.  We have had several reports of wet crawl spaces in Broken
Top.  Prior
to development, the soils were loose and able to retain stormwater.  With
development,
the soils were compacted or removed and a lot of impervious roofs and pavement
meant
that there was less and less soil available to absorb the water.  Water applied
to the golf
courses (or other turf, for that matter)keeps the golf course soils wet and
reduces their
ability to absorb rainwater.  In January and February, the soils of Central
Oregon froze to a
depth of several inches.  It has taken quite a while for the soil to thaw. 
Frozen soil has no
infiltration capacity at all and this surely added to the problem as the snow
began to melt.

I wish I could offer some suggestions but it is a difficult problem."

Ok, so what's the next step?
Thanks,
Kali

What is Swiftmud? Have you checked with your state Department of Natural
Resources, Soil and Water Conservation Service, Board of Soil and Water
Resources, or Agriculture Department (whichever has jurisdiction) as to
what the actual statute or regulation says?  You may be also be able to
look it up yourself by searching under "Florida stormwater statutes" in
a search engine.  Also, you might want to consult a lawyer who
specializes in land use law.
Again, it comes down to who had the authority to permit and gave the
permit to build, and did they follow the existing regulations in
granting it?

Susanne P. Spitzer, AICP
Minnesota Pollution Control Agency
Municipal Division
520 Lafayette Rd. N.
St. Paul, MN 55155-4194
Tel: 651-296-7723
Fax: 651-297-2343 or 651-297-8683
susanne.spitzer@...

www.pca.state.mn.us - Working with Minnesotans to protect
conserve and improve our environment and enhance our quality of life.

"Use what talents you possess; The woods would be very silent if no
birds sang there except those that sang best."  - - William Blake





-----Original Message-----
From: stormwaterpro@yahoogroups.com
[mailto:stormwaterpro@yahoogroups.com] On Behalf Of ddross57
Sent: Tuesday, March 11, 2008 2:43 PM
To: stormwaterpro@yahoogroups.com
Subject: [StormwaterPro] flooding


I live in Lakeland, Florida and in Sept. 2004 we were hit pretty hard
by hurricanes.  A one street development that runs off of my street
has a retention pond for their stormwater drainage.  In between the 2
hurricanes, a neighbor vandalized the retention pond that caused
flooding on our street and my property.  I contacted the county and
Swiftmud. They both came out and said that there was a problem.
Sadly, neither had the damage repaired before the next hurricane.  My
entire home was flooded because of this.  In addition, Swiftmud says
that the pipe that is connected to the retention pond will stay open
for the overflow if the pond gets full.  This pipe opens onto our
street.  Everything I have ever read says that developments must not
put their water onto other properties.  There is a lot more detail to
this, and would love to have someone help who has expertise in this
type problem.  Basically everyone says it is the other parties problem
or responsibility.



Don't forget to use the StormwaterPro resources
available at:

    http://www.egroups.com/group/stormwaterpro

he StormwaterPro resources
available at:

    http://www.egroups.com/group/stormwaterpro


Yahoo! Groups Links

I live in Lakeland, Florida and in Sept. 2004 we were hit pretty hard
by hurricanes.  A one street development that runs off of my street
has a retention pond for their stormwater drainage.  In between the 2
hurricanes, a neighbor vandalized the retention pond that caused
flooding on our street and my property.  I contacted the county and
Swiftmud. They both came out and said that there was a problem.
Sadly, neither had the damage repaired before the next hurricane.  My
entire home was flooded because of this.  In addition, Swiftmud says
that the pipe that is connected to the retention pond will stay open
for the overflow if the pond gets full.  This pipe opens onto our
street.  Everything I have ever read says that developments must not
put their water onto other properties.  There is a lot more detail to
this, and would love to have someone help who has expertise in this
type problem.  Basically everyone says it is the other parties problem
or responsibility.

Thanks, Doug.  We specialize in cataclysmic weather, if not earthquakes
here, so we'd better learn how to deal with it!  Where is Pomeroy?

Susanne P. Spitzer, AICP
Minnesota Pollution Control Agency
Municipal Division
520 Lafayette Rd. N.
St. Paul, MN 55155-4194
Tel: 651-296-7723
Fax: 651-297-2343 or 651-297-8683
susanne.spitzer@...

www.pca.state.mn.us - Working with Minnesotans to protect
conserve and improve our environment and enhance our quality of life.

"Use what talents you possess; The woods would be very silent if no
birds sang there except those that sang best."  - - William Blake





-----Original Message-----
From: stormwaterpro@yahoogroups.com
[mailto:stormwaterpro@yahoogroups.com] On Behalf Of Doug Sinclair
Sent: Tuesday, March 11, 2008 11:04 AM
To: stormwaterpro@yahoogroups.com
Subject: Re: [StormwaterPro] Someone from City of Bend coming out



Hi Suzanne,
I have been watching your posts with interest and am glad someone pushed
the correct button. I suggest you ask for nothing more specific than for
the City to fix the problem, they should provide the solution and do the
work. Good Luck, Doug Sinclair

   ----- Original Message -----
   From: Spitzer, Susanne
   To: stormwaterpro@yahoogroups.com
   Sent: Monday, March 10, 2008 7:11 AM
   Subject: RE: [StormwaterPro] Someone from City of Bend coming out


   If the city gave the permits for the surrounding property to be
   developed after yours was, it's the city's problem. A case in point:
   the City of Minneapolis decades ago allowed houses in a small area
near
   41st Street and Bloomington Avenue South. The area is at the bottom of
   four hills, and every time it rained the detached houses flooded or at
   least their garages did. (The garages are built on grade, but houses
   here are on foundations.) This presented fire hazards when electrical
   wires short-circuited, mold problems, etc. Less than ten years ago the
   City finally acknowledged its mistake, bought out the owners, and
turned
   the area into a park. It's really more like a very deep swale, and it
   does have a fence around it. But the City had no business giving
   permits in the first place, and it really was liable all along.

   A primary purpose of a city is to protect health and safety. If it
   didn't do so in issuing permits, it needs to correct the problem by
   requiring the subsequent builders in the area to correct grade
   deficiencies in the landscaping. However, it wouldn't hurt for you to
   do what you can in your area.

   Susanne P. Spitzer, AICP
   Minnesota Pollution Control Agency
   Municipal Division
   520 Lafayette Rd. N.
   St. Paul, MN 55155-4194
   Tel: 651-296-7723
   Fax: 651-297-2343 or 651-297-8683
   susanne.spitzer@...

   www.pca.state.mn.us - Working with Minnesotans to protect
   conserve and improve our environment and enhance our quality of life.

   "Use what talents you possess; The woods would be very silent if no
   birds sang there except those that sang best." - - William Blake

   -----Original Message-----
   From: stormwaterpro@yahoogroups.com
   [mailto:stormwaterpro@yahoogroups.com] On Behalf Of kalibailey11
   Sent: Friday, March 07, 2008 12:50 PM
   To: stormwaterpro@yahoogroups.com
   Subject: [StormwaterPro] Someone from City of Bend coming out

   Many thanks to whoever got the city to contact me about coming out to
my
   house. My mom said in the past she just ran around in circles with
   people saying, no, it's the builder's problem, no, it's the golf
   course's problem, no, it's the suburb people's problem, no, it's the
   city's problem, no, it's the builder's problem...etc. I'll be
interested
   to see what happens this time. Having never gotten this far before, I
   don't really know what to ask for. Should I just hand him your
   suggestions or should I start with a very specific recommendation? If
   so, what should I request? Thank you all again, you've been a huge
help!
   -Kali

   Don't forget to use the StormwaterPro resources
   available at:

   http://www.egroups.com/group/stormwaterpro

   he StormwaterPro resources
   available at:

   http://www.egroups.com/group/stormwaterpro

   Yahoo! Groups Links





[Non-text portions of this message have been removed]



Don't forget to use the StormwaterPro resources
available at:

    http://www.egroups.com/group/stormwaterpro

he StormwaterPro resources
available at:

    http://www.egroups.com/group/stormwaterpro


Yahoo! Groups Links

Hi Suzanne,
I have been watching your posts with interest and am glad someone pushed the
correct button.
I suggest you ask for nothing more specific than for the City to fix the
problem, they should provide the solution and do the work.
Good Luck,
Doug Sinclair

   ----- Original Message -----
   From: Spitzer, Susanne
   To: stormwaterpro@yahoogroups.com
   Sent: Monday, March 10, 2008 7:11 AM
   Subject: RE: [StormwaterPro] Someone from City of Bend coming out


   If the city gave the permits for the surrounding property to be
   developed after yours was, it's the city's problem. A case in point:
   the City of Minneapolis decades ago allowed houses in a small area near
   41st Street and Bloomington Avenue South. The area is at the bottom of
   four hills, and every time it rained the detached houses flooded or at
   least their garages did. (The garages are built on grade, but houses
   here are on foundations.) This presented fire hazards when electrical
   wires short-circuited, mold problems, etc. Less than ten years ago the
   City finally acknowledged its mistake, bought out the owners, and turned
   the area into a park. It's really more like a very deep swale, and it
   does have a fence around it. But the City had no business giving
   permits in the first place, and it really was liable all along.

   A primary purpose of a city is to protect health and safety. If it
   didn't do so in issuing permits, it needs to correct the problem by
   requiring the subsequent builders in the area to correct grade
   deficiencies in the landscaping. However, it wouldn't hurt for you to
   do what you can in your area.

   Susanne P. Spitzer, AICP
   Minnesota Pollution Control Agency
   Municipal Division
   520 Lafayette Rd. N.
   St. Paul, MN 55155-4194
   Tel: 651-296-7723
   Fax: 651-297-2343 or 651-297-8683
   susanne.spitzer@...

   www.pca.state.mn.us - Working with Minnesotans to protect
   conserve and improve our environment and enhance our quality of life.

   "Use what talents you possess; The woods would be very silent if no
   birds sang there except those that sang best." - - William Blake

   -----Original Message-----
   From: stormwaterpro@yahoogroups.com
   [mailto:stormwaterpro@yahoogroups.com] On Behalf Of kalibailey11
   Sent: Friday, March 07, 2008 12:50 PM
   To: stormwaterpro@yahoogroups.com
   Subject: [StormwaterPro] Someone from City of Bend coming out

   Many thanks to whoever got the city to contact me about coming out to my
   house. My mom said in the past she just ran around in circles with
   people saying, no, it's the builder's problem, no, it's the golf
   course's problem, no, it's the suburb people's problem, no, it's the
   city's problem, no, it's the builder's problem...etc. I'll be interested
   to see what happens this time. Having never gotten this far before, I
   don't really know what to ask for. Should I just hand him your
   suggestions or should I start with a very specific recommendation? If
   so, what should I request? Thank you all again, you've been a huge help!
   -Kali

   Don't forget to use the StormwaterPro resources
   available at:

   http://www.egroups.com/group/stormwaterpro

   he StormwaterPro resources
   available at:

   http://www.egroups.com/group/stormwaterpro

   Yahoo! Groups Links





[Non-text portions of this message have been removed]

If the city gave the permits for the surrounding property to be
developed after yours was, it's the city's problem.  A case in point:
the City of Minneapolis decades ago allowed houses in a small area near
41st Street and Bloomington Avenue South.  The area is at the bottom of
four hills, and every time it rained the detached houses flooded or at
least their garages did. (The garages are built on grade, but houses
here are on foundations.)  This presented fire hazards when electrical
wires short-circuited, mold problems, etc.  Less than ten years ago the
City finally acknowledged its mistake, bought out the owners, and turned
the area into a park.  It's really more like a very deep swale, and it
does have a fence around it.  But the City had no business giving
permits in the first place, and it really was liable all along.

A primary purpose of a city is to protect health and safety.  If it
didn't do so in issuing permits, it needs to correct the problem by
requiring the subsequent builders in the area to correct grade
deficiencies in the landscaping.  However, it wouldn't hurt for you to
do what you can in your area.

Susanne P. Spitzer, AICP
Minnesota Pollution Control Agency
Municipal Division
520 Lafayette Rd. N.
St. Paul, MN 55155-4194
Tel: 651-296-7723
Fax: 651-297-2343 or 651-297-8683
susanne.spitzer@...

www.pca.state.mn.us - Working with Minnesotans to protect
conserve and improve our environment and enhance our quality of life.

"Use what talents you possess; The woods would be very silent if no
birds sang there except those that sang best."  - - William Blake





-----Original Message-----
From: stormwaterpro@yahoogroups.com
[mailto:stormwaterpro@yahoogroups.com] On Behalf Of kalibailey11
Sent: Friday, March 07, 2008 12:50 PM
To: stormwaterpro@yahoogroups.com
Subject: [StormwaterPro] Someone from City of Bend coming out


Many thanks to whoever got the city to contact me about coming out to my
house. My mom said in the past she just ran around in circles with
people saying, no, it's the builder's problem, no, it's the golf
course's problem, no, it's the suburb people's problem, no, it's the
city's problem, no, it's the builder's problem...etc. I'll be interested
to see what happens this time. Having never gotten this far before, I
don't really know what to ask for. Should I just hand him your
suggestions or should I start with a very specific recommendation? If
so, what should I request? Thank you all again, you've been a huge help!
-Kali



Don't forget to use the StormwaterPro resources
available at:

    http://www.egroups.com/group/stormwaterpro

he StormwaterPro resources
available at:

    http://www.egroups.com/group/stormwaterpro


Yahoo! Groups Links

Many thanks to whoever got the city to contact me about coming out to
my house. My mom said in the past she just ran around in circles with
people saying, no, it's the builder's problem, no, it's the golf
course's problem, no, it's the suburb people's problem, no, it's the
city's problem, no, it's the builder's problem...etc. I'll be
interested to see what happens this time. Having never gotten this far
before, I don't really know what to ask for. Should I just hand him
your suggestions or should I start with a very specific
recommendation? If so, what should I request?
Thank you all again, you've been a huge help!
-Kali

Looking at your landscape it seems that the type of issues that you are
dealing with are out of my area of study.  My guess is that there is very
little infiltration occurring due to a poor soil profile.  If your property
is sitting near a low spot it will be difficult to prevent this pooling of
water.  The only option I see is to landscape your yard in a manner that
would redirect this water out and away from your home.  This would require a
lot of soil, and a lot of money.  You might want to try to contact your
builder to see what their perspective is on the situation.  It seems to me
that they should be somewhat responsible for the problem.  Needless to say,
I am not a lawyer.   I live in Nebraska and a common problem here is
shrinking and swelling clay.  It cracks peoples foundations.  If the builder
fails to account for this, it can lead to serious problems down the road.  I
know the issues are different but it all goes back to builders putting up
homes in locations that were not meant to be built on.  Good luck!

On Wed, Mar 5, 2008 at 2:28 PM, kalibailey11 <kalivanagas@...> wrote:

>   I don't think it is a rising water table, though I have heard rumors
> that the common area is
> on a natural spring. Here's a link to some photos of the swampy area
> around my house. I
> put captions on the photos explaining some of the history of the property.
> When we
> moved in, it was a high desert forest with Juniper and Ponderosa, then a
> development
> company bought it and put in 90 new homes and this grassy common area. The
> flooding
> got really bad after that happened. Sometimes it floods the whole
> neighborhood. We get
> 12" of snow about 3 times a year. Plus 3" off and on all winter. When we
> get 12" and it
> melts suddenly, that's when it floods almost every house on the common
> area, but ours
> gets it the worst.
>
> Photos http://community.webshots.com/album/562696020UyxcwP
>
> If, after seeing the photos, you can recommend a place to start, it would
> be much
> appreciated.
>
> Many thanks,
> Kali Vanagas
>
> --- In stormwaterpro@yahoogroups.com <stormwaterpro%40yahoogroups.com>,
> "bjoel800" <BJoel800@...> wrote:
> >
> > Would you guess and say that the majority of the water is due to
> > snowmelt and rainfall, not a rising water table. If it is mainly due
> > to poor drainage you might need to landscape in such a way that you
> > change the drainage pattern. This way the water drains away from your
> > property, and not towards your foundation. If your flooding is due to
> > a high water table, I am not sure what you can do.
> > --- In stormwaterpro@yahoogroups.com <stormwaterpro%40yahoogroups.com>,
> "Norman MacLeod" <gaelwolf@>
> > wrote:
> > >
> > >
> > > REPOSTING for group member
> > >
> > >
> > > FROM: kalivanagas@
> > > DATE: Sun, 02 Mar 2008 20:27:24 -0000
> > > SUBJECT: New to group- snow melt drainage problems, help!
> > >
> > > For the last 13 years, my family has been battling a swampy yard and
> > > water in our crawl space. We have three $500 sump pumps but that
> > > doesn't fix the yard. It's so bad that the dogs don't even want to go
> > > outside. Our yard extends about 8' out from our house with two 12x15'
> > > areas on either side of the house. It's a flat lot and there are berms
>
> > > separating the flooded common area from our property but our house is
> > > in the low spot. We have lawn, bark, aspens, and some native brush.
> > > What can we do to get rid of all this water??? Thanks
> > >
> >
>
>
>


[Non-text portions of this message have been removed]

Looking at your landscape it seems that the type of issues that you
are dealing with are out of my area of study.  My guess is that there
is very little infiltration occurring due to a poor soil profile.  If
your property is sitting near a low spot it will be difficult to
prevent this pooling of water.  The only option I see is to landscape
your yard in a manner that would redirect this water out and away from
your home.  This would require a lot of soil, and a lot of money.  You
might want to try to contact your builder to see what their
perspective is on the situation.  It seems to me that they should be
somewhat responsible for the problem.  Needless to say, I am not a
lawyer.   I live in Nebraska and a common problem here is shrinking
and swelling clay.  It cracks peoples foundations.  If the builder
fails to account for this, it can lead to serious problems down the
road.  I know the issues are different but it all goes back to
builders putting up homes in locations that were not meant to be built
on.  Good luck!

--- In stormwaterpro@yahoogroups.com, "kalibailey11" <kalivanagas@...>
wrote:
>
> I don't think it is a rising water table, though I have heard rumors
that the common area is
> on a natural spring. Here's a link to some photos of the swampy area
around my house. I
> put captions on the photos explaining some of the history of the
property. When we
> moved in, it was a high desert forest with Juniper and Ponderosa,
then a development
> company bought it and put in 90 new homes and this grassy common
area. The flooding
> got really bad after that happened. Sometimes it floods the whole
neighborhood. We get
> 12" of snow about 3 times a year. Plus 3" off and on all winter.
When we get 12" and it
> melts suddenly, that's when it floods almost every house on the
common area, but ours
> gets it the worst.
>
> Photos http://community.webshots.com/album/562696020UyxcwP
>
> If, after seeing the photos, you can recommend a place to start, it
would be much
> appreciated.
>
> Many thanks,
> Kali Vanagas
>
>
> --- In stormwaterpro@yahoogroups.com, "bjoel800" <BJoel800@> wrote:
> >
> > Would you guess and say that the majority of the water is due to
> > snowmelt and rainfall, not a rising water table.  If it is mainly due
> > to poor drainage you might need to landscape in such a way that you
> > change the drainage pattern.  This way the water drains away from your
> > property, and not towards your foundation.  If your flooding is due to
> > a high water table, I am not sure what you can do.
> > --- In stormwaterpro@yahoogroups.com, "Norman MacLeod" <gaelwolf@>
> > wrote:
> > >
> > >
> > > REPOSTING for group member
> > >
> > >
> > > FROM: kalivanagas@
> > > DATE: Sun, 02 Mar 2008 20:27:24 -0000
> > > SUBJECT: New to group- snow melt drainage problems, help!
> > >
> > > For the last 13 years, my family has been battling a swampy yard
and
> > > water in our crawl space. We have three $500 sump pumps but that
> > > doesn't fix the yard. It's so bad that the dogs don't even want
to go
> > > outside. Our yard extends about 8' out from our house with two
12x15'
> > > areas on either side of the house. It's a flat lot and there are
berms
> > > separating the flooded common area from our property but our
house is
> > > in the low spot. We have lawn, bark, aspens, and some native brush.
> > > What can we do to get rid of all this water??? Thanks
> > >
> >
>

Looking at your landscape it seems that the type of issues that you
are dealing with are out of my area of study.  My guess is that there
is very little infiltration occurring due to a poor soil profile.  If
your property is sitting near a low spot it will be difficult to
prevent this pooling of water.  The only option I see is to landscape
your yard in a manner that would redirect this water out and away from
your home.  This would require a lot of soil, and a lot of money.  You
might want to try to contact your builder to see what their
perspective is on the situation.  It seems to me that they should be
somewhat responsible for the problem.  Needless to say, I am not a
lawyer.   I live in Nebraska and a common problem here is shrinking
and swelling clay.  It cracks peoples foundations.  If the builder
fails to account for this, it can lead to serious problems down the
road.  I know the issues are different but it all goes back to
builders putting up homes in locations that were not meant to be built
on.  Also, I disagree with the comment that said to use material that
will adsorb the water.  You want to move the water away, not keep it
around.  If you use material that adsorbs water then you will have an
even bigger mess.
Good luck!

--- In stormwaterpro@yahoogroups.com, "Spitzer, Susanne"
<susanne.spitzer@...> wrote:
>
> Well, I'm no hydrologist but I have a couple of suggestions based on my
> work with low impact development and stormwater.  Feel free to ignore
> what makes no sense to you:
> 1) Try to waterproof the outside of whatever foundation your house has.
> This means you have to dig up all the dirt around it.  (Not easy or
> cheap.)  There are special paints for exterior waterproofing.  Seal all
> the holes in the foundation before you do that.
> 2) If you can install a French drain (underground pipe perforated on
> top)or under-the-surface drainage tiles and have the end pipe divert
> water from your property, do so.
> 3) Make sure you change the landscaping so that the dirt slopes away
> from your house.
> 4) Add whatever plants you can that thrive on tons of water for the low
> spots near your house.  (No, not water lilies!).  Use native plants if
> they will work in that type of hydrology, as they are likely to last
> longer and work better.  Talk to your city, county, or state garden club
> or horticultural society.  Many have volunteer master gardeners. Don't
> plant anything with deep roots right next to the house.
> 5) Before you add them, mix as much compost into the soil as possible.
> Compost absorbs a ton of water.  You can get it from a garden center, or
> your county may have it available free in the Spring if it collects
> leaves at compost yards in the fall.  When you mix the compost in, you
> will have extra soil. That means you will have to cart away soil.  If
> you have a freemarket in your area, or a Craig's List, list the dirt
> online.  Believe it or not, people will ask for it.  Or you can ask for
> more dirt.
> 6)Talk to your University Extension service for additional suggestions,
> and your Office of Attorney General for consumer information about how
> not to get ripped off if you don't try to do these things yourself.
> Both offer good publications, often for free.
> 7) If there's enough space, plant a tree with deep roots.  Trees absorb
> an unbelievable amount of water.
> 8) Make sure you check with your city, county, and watershed management
> organization or district, pollution control agency or department of
> natural resources to see how much of the above is legal in your area and
> get the permits in advance if ones are needed.
> 9) Get a dehumidifier for your crawl space if you can access it.  In
> theory, assuming you are on a sewer system, you should be able to drain
> some of the water it produces directly into a drain that leads to it, if
> it's legal in your area to do so.
> This may not cure your whole problem, but it can't hurt.
> 10) If you have a concrete walk, consider replacing it with compost and
> shredded bark.  The latter will not float, and the compost will absorb
> water.
>
> Good luck!
>
> Susanne P. Spitzer, AICP
> Minnesota Pollution Control Agency
> Municipal Division
> 520 Lafayette Rd. N.
> St. Paul, MN 55155-4194
> Tel: 651-296-7723
> Fax: 651-297-2343 or 651-297-8683
> susanne.spitzer@...
>
> www.pca.state.mn.us - Working with Minnesotans to protect
> conserve and improve our environment and enhance our quality of life.
>
> "Use what talents you possess; The woods would be very silent if no
> birds sang there except those that sang best."  - - William Blake
>
>
>
>
>
> -----Original Message-----
> From: stormwaterpro@yahoogroups.com
> [mailto:stormwaterpro@yahoogroups.com] On Behalf Of kalibailey11
> Sent: Wednesday, March 05, 2008 2:28 PM
> To: stormwaterpro@yahoogroups.com
> Subject: [StormwaterPro] Photos of snow melt drainage problems
>
>
> I don't think it is a rising water table, though I have heard rumors
> that the common area is
> on a natural spring. Here's a link to some photos of the swampy area
> around my house. I
> put captions on the photos explaining some of the history of the
> property. When we
> moved in, it was a high desert forest with Juniper and Ponderosa, then a
> development
> company bought it and put in 90 new homes and this grassy common area.
> The flooding
> got really bad after that happened. Sometimes it floods the whole
> neighborhood. We get
> 12" of snow about 3 times a year. Plus 3" off and on all winter. When we
> get 12" and it
> melts suddenly, that's when it floods almost every house on the common
> area, but ours
> gets it the worst.
>
> Photos http://community.webshots.com/album/562696020UyxcwP
>
> If, after seeing the photos, you can recommend a place to start, it
> would be much
> appreciated.
>
> Many thanks,
> Kali Vanagas
>
>
> --- In stormwaterpro@yahoogroups.com, "bjoel800" <BJoel800@> wrote:
> >
> > Would you guess and say that the majority of the water is due to
> > snowmelt and rainfall, not a rising water table.  If it is mainly due
> > to poor drainage you might need to landscape in such a way that you
> > change the drainage pattern.  This way the water drains away from your
>
> > property, and not towards your foundation.  If your flooding is due to
>
> > a high water table, I am not sure what you can do.
> > --- In stormwaterpro@yahoogroups.com, "Norman MacLeod" <gaelwolf@>
> > wrote:
> > >
> > >
> > > REPOSTING for group member
> > >
> > >
> > > FROM: kalivanagas@
> > > DATE: Sun, 02 Mar 2008 20:27:24 -0000
> > > SUBJECT: New to group- snow melt drainage problems, help!
> > >
> > > For the last 13 years, my family has been battling a swampy yard and
> > > water in our crawl space. We have three $500 sump pumps but that
> > > doesn't fix the yard. It's so bad that the dogs don't even want to
> go
> > > outside. Our yard extends about 8' out from our house with two
> 12x15'
> > > areas on either side of the house. It's a flat lot and there are
> berms
> > > separating the flooded common area from our property but our house
> is
> > > in the low spot. We have lawn, bark, aspens, and some native brush.
> > > What can we do to get rid of all this water??? Thanks
> > >
> >
>
>
>
>
>
> Don't forget to use the StormwaterPro resources
> available at:
>
>    http://www.egroups.com/group/stormwaterpro
>
> he StormwaterPro resources
> available at:
>
>    http://www.egroups.com/group/stormwaterpro
>
>
> Yahoo! Groups Links
>

Well, I'm no hydrologist but I have a couple of suggestions based on my
work with low impact development and stormwater.  Feel free to ignore
what makes no sense to you:
1) Try to waterproof the outside of whatever foundation your house has.
This means you have to dig up all the dirt around it.  (Not easy or
cheap.)  There are special paints for exterior waterproofing.  Seal all
the holes in the foundation before you do that.
2) If you can install a French drain (underground pipe perforated on
top)or under-the-surface drainage tiles and have the end pipe divert
water from your property, do so.
3) Make sure you change the landscaping so that the dirt slopes away
from your house.
4) Add whatever plants you can that thrive on tons of water for the low
spots near your house.  (No, not water lilies!).  Use native plants if
they will work in that type of hydrology, as they are likely to last
longer and work better.  Talk to your city, county, or state garden club
or horticultural society.  Many have volunteer master gardeners. Don't
plant anything with deep roots right next to the house.
5) Before you add them, mix as much compost into the soil as possible.
Compost absorbs a ton of water.  You can get it from a garden center, or
your county may have it available free in the Spring if it collects
leaves at compost yards in the fall.  When you mix the compost in, you
will have extra soil. That means you will have to cart away soil.  If
you have a freemarket in your area, or a Craig's List, list the dirt
online.  Believe it or not, people will ask for it.  Or you can ask for
more dirt.
6)Talk to your University Extension service for additional suggestions,
and your Office of Attorney General for consumer information about how
not to get ripped off if you don't try to do these things yourself.
Both offer good publications, often for free.
7) If there's enough space, plant a tree with deep roots.  Trees absorb
an unbelievable amount of water.
8) Make sure you check with your city, county, and watershed management
organization or district, pollution control agency or department of
natural resources to see how much of the above is legal in your area and
get the permits in advance if ones are needed.
9) Get a dehumidifier for your crawl space if you can access it.  In
theory, assuming you are on a sewer system, you should be able to drain
some of the water it produces directly into a drain that leads to it, if
it's legal in your area to do so.
This may not cure your whole problem, but it can't hurt.
10) If you have a concrete walk, consider replacing it with compost and
shredded bark.  The latter will not float, and the compost will absorb
water.

Good luck!

Susanne P. Spitzer, AICP
Minnesota Pollution Control Agency
Municipal Division
520 Lafayette Rd. N.
St. Paul, MN 55155-4194
Tel: 651-296-7723
Fax: 651-297-2343 or 651-297-8683
susanne.spitzer@...

www.pca.state.mn.us - Working with Minnesotans to protect
conserve and improve our environment and enhance our quality of life.

"Use what talents you possess; The woods would be very silent if no
birds sang there except those that sang best."  - - William Blake





-----Original Message-----
From: stormwaterpro@yahoogroups.com
[mailto:stormwaterpro@yahoogroups.com] On Behalf Of kalibailey11
Sent: Wednesday, March 05, 2008 2:28 PM
To: stormwaterpro@yahoogroups.com
Subject: [StormwaterPro] Photos of snow melt drainage problems


I don't think it is a rising water table, though I have heard rumors
that the common area is
on a natural spring. Here's a link to some photos of the swampy area
around my house. I
put captions on the photos explaining some of the history of the
property. When we
moved in, it was a high desert forest with Juniper and Ponderosa, then a
development
company bought it and put in 90 new homes and this grassy common area.
The flooding
got really bad after that happened. Sometimes it floods the whole
neighborhood. We get
12" of snow about 3 times a year. Plus 3" off and on all winter. When we
get 12" and it
melts suddenly, that's when it floods almost every house on the common
area, but ours
gets it the worst.

Photos http://community.webshots.com/album/562696020UyxcwP

If, after seeing the photos, you can recommend a place to start, it
would be much
appreciated.

Many thanks,
Kali Vanagas


--- In stormwaterpro@yahoogroups.com, "bjoel800" <BJoel800@...> wrote:
>
> Would you guess and say that the majority of the water is due to
> snowmelt and rainfall, not a rising water table.  If it is mainly due
> to poor drainage you might need to landscape in such a way that you
> change the drainage pattern.  This way the water drains away from your

> property, and not towards your foundation.  If your flooding is due to

> a high water table, I am not sure what you can do.
> --- In stormwaterpro@yahoogroups.com, "Norman MacLeod" <gaelwolf@>
> wrote:
> >
> >
> > REPOSTING for group member
> >
> >
> > FROM: kalivanagas@
> > DATE: Sun, 02 Mar 2008 20:27:24 -0000
> > SUBJECT: New to group- snow melt drainage problems, help!
> >
> > For the last 13 years, my family has been battling a swampy yard and
> > water in our crawl space. We have three $500 sump pumps but that
> > doesn't fix the yard. It's so bad that the dogs don't even want to
go
> > outside. Our yard extends about 8' out from our house with two
12x15'
> > areas on either side of the house. It's a flat lot and there are
berms
> > separating the flooded common area from our property but our house
is
> > in the low spot. We have lawn, bark, aspens, and some native brush.
> > What can we do to get rid of all this water??? Thanks
> >
>





Don't forget to use the StormwaterPro resources
available at:

    http://www.egroups.com/group/stormwaterpro

he StormwaterPro resources
available at:

    http://www.egroups.com/group/stormwaterpro


Yahoo! Groups Links

I don't think it is a rising water table, though I have heard rumors that the
common area is
on a natural spring. Here's a link to some photos of the swampy area around my
house. I
put captions on the photos explaining some of the history of the property. When
we
moved in, it was a high desert forest with Juniper and Ponderosa, then a
development
company bought it and put in 90 new homes and this grassy common area. The
flooding
got really bad after that happened. Sometimes it floods the whole neighborhood.
We get
12" of snow about 3 times a year. Plus 3" off and on all winter. When we get 12"
and it
melts suddenly, that's when it floods almost every house on the common area, but
ours
gets it the worst.

Photos http://community.webshots.com/album/562696020UyxcwP

If, after seeing the photos, you can recommend a place to start, it would be
much
appreciated.

Many thanks,
Kali Vanagas


--- In stormwaterpro@yahoogroups.com, "bjoel800" <BJoel800@...> wrote:
>
> Would you guess and say that the majority of the water is due to
> snowmelt and rainfall, not a rising water table.  If it is mainly due
> to poor drainage you might need to landscape in such a way that you
> change the drainage pattern.  This way the water drains away from your
> property, and not towards your foundation.  If your flooding is due to
> a high water table, I am not sure what you can do.
> --- In stormwaterpro@yahoogroups.com, "Norman MacLeod" <gaelwolf@>
> wrote:
> >
> >
> > REPOSTING for group member
> >
> >
> > FROM: kalivanagas@
> > DATE: Sun, 02 Mar 2008 20:27:24 -0000
> > SUBJECT: New to group- snow melt drainage problems, help!
> >
> > For the last 13 years, my family has been battling a swampy yard and
> > water in our crawl space. We have three $500 sump pumps but that
> > doesn't fix the yard. It's so bad that the dogs don't even want to go
> > outside. Our yard extends about 8' out from our house with two 12x15'
> > areas on either side of the house. It's a flat lot and there are berms
> > separating the flooded common area from our property but our house is
> > in the low spot. We have lawn, bark, aspens, and some native brush.
> > What can we do to get rid of all this water??? Thanks
> >
>

Would you guess and say that the majority of the water is due to
snowmelt and rainfall, not a rising water table.  If it is mainly due
to poor drainage you might need to landscape in such a way that you
change the drainage pattern.  This way the water drains away from your
property, and not towards your foundation.  If your flooding is due to
a high water table, I am not sure what you can do.
--- In stormwaterpro@yahoogroups.com, "Norman MacLeod" <gaelwolf@...>
wrote:
>
>
> REPOSTING for group member
>
>
> FROM: kalivanagas@...
> DATE: Sun, 02 Mar 2008 20:27:24 -0000
> SUBJECT: New to group- snow melt drainage problems, help!
>
> For the last 13 years, my family has been battling a swampy yard and
> water in our crawl space. We have three $500 sump pumps but that
> doesn't fix the yard. It's so bad that the dogs don't even want to go
> outside. Our yard extends about 8' out from our house with two 12x15'
> areas on either side of the house. It's a flat lot and there are berms
> separating the flooded common area from our property but our house is
> in the low spot. We have lawn, bark, aspens, and some native brush.
> What can we do to get rid of all this water??? Thanks
>

REPOSTING for group member


FROM: kalivanagas@...
DATE: Sun, 02 Mar 2008 20:27:24 -0000
SUBJECT: New to group- snow melt drainage problems, help!

For the last 13 years, my family has been battling a swampy yard and
water in our crawl space. We have three $500 sump pumps but that
doesn't fix the yard. It's so bad that the dogs don't even want to go
outside. Our yard extends about 8' out from our house with two 12x15'
areas on either side of the house. It's a flat lot and there are berms
separating the flooded common area from our property but our house is
in the low spot. We have lawn, bark, aspens, and some native brush.
What can we do to get rid of all this water??? Thanks

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The company that i work for does streambank restoration,wetland cells,stormwater
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CALL FOR PAPERS

International Conference on

Nutrient Recovery from Wastewater Streams

May 10-13, 2009 - Vancouver, British Columbia, Canada



Closing the loop for nutrients in wastewaters (municipal sewage, animal wastes,
food industry, commercial and other liquid waste streams) is a necessary,
sustainable development objective, to reduce resource consumption and greenhouse
gas emissions. Chemistry, engineering and process integration understanding are
all developing quickly and new processes are already coming online. A new
"paradigm" is emerging, globally. Commercial marketing of recovered nutrients as
"green" fertilizers, or recycling of nutrients through biomass production to new
outlets such as bio-fuels, is starting to happen.

This conference will bring together the various waste stream industries,
regulators, researchers, R/D and process engineers and commercial managers, to
develop intersectorial understanding and joint projects for phosphorus and
nitrogen recovery and reuse from waste waters.

Abstracts are solicited in particular in the following areas:

§        Phosphorus and nitrogen recovery from different wastewater sources

§        Process design and plant integration

§        Marketing and use of recovered nutrient products

§        Struvite, K- Struvite and calcium phosphate precipitation

§        Ion exchange nutrient recovery processes

§        P-recovery from biosolids incineration ashes

§        Leading-edge research and innovative technology

In addition, there will be an Open Session, devoted to "new thinking" for this
emerging paradigm, in concert with an expert panel discussion. Dr. James L.
Barnard (2007 Clarke Prize) will be the Keynote Speaker and will address the
audience during the Plenary Session, on the opening day of the conference.

The Conference Programme will also offer visits to phosphorus recovery
installations (Ostara/UBC struvite recovery process) recently commissioned in
municipal sewage works in Edmonton, Alberta.


ABSTRACT DEADLINE: March 28th, 2008.

Please send abstract submissions to
(2-page single-spaced maximum, with additional 2 pages of tables or figures):

Venue West Conference Services Ltd.

Conference Secretariat - Nutrient Recovery, 2009

#100-873 Beatty Street - Vancouver, B.C. - V6B 2M6 - Canada

Fax: 604 681-2503   -     E-mail: mmori@...



This conference is hosted by the Department of Civil Engineering of the
University of British Columbia (UBC) and chaired by Dr. D.S. Mavinic, Professor
of Civil and Environmental Engineering, UBC. Sponsors include:

   a.. The University of British Columbia (UBC) http://www.civil.ubc.ca/pcwm/
   b.. Global Phosphate Forum www.phosphate-forum.org
   c.. The Chartered Institution of Water and Environmental Management (CIWEM)
www.ciwem.org
   d.. Ostara Research Foundation (ORF) www.ostara.com


[Non-text portions of this message have been removed]

Can anyone give me some guidance on the proper way to clean up a motor
oil spill?  We had a spill yesterday of approximatley 40 gallons on a
public roadway with storm sewer inlets.  We and the fire department
responded.  This was the first spill I have been involved with and
would appreciate any guidance received.  Thanks!

Hello,

Can anyone recommend a good product to absorb oil spills and other
types of spills?  I am developing spill response procedures and want
to maintain an inventory of spill response items.  I have been reading
about clay vs synthetic absorbants for oil spills.  Does anyone have
any recommendations?

We have the pleasure of sending you attached as a pdf document number 68 of
the SCOPE Newsletter (Scientific Committee On Phosphates in Europe),
presenting recent scientific research concerning eutrophication, phosphorus
removal from waste waters and phosphate recovery and recycling.

The SCOPE Newsletter is produced several times yearly by CEEP (Centre
Européen d 'Etudes des Polyphosphates http://www.ceep-phosphates.org/ ), the
phosphate industry's research association and a sector group of Cefic (the
European Chemical Industry Council).

This is attached as a "pdf" document. If you do not already have the Adobe
Acrobat Reader software to open this document, it can be downloaded for free
at http://www.adobe.com/products/acrobat/readstep.html

If you wish to no longer receive this Newsletter you can remove your email
address from our mailing list using the "unsubscribe" option at the
following address http://www.ceep-phosphates.org/subscribe.htm

If you know of colleagues or contacts who would be interested in receiving
this Newsletter for free, please pass it on to them, so that they can
subscribe at http://www.ceep-phosphates.org/subscribe.htm

CEEP - a Cefic Sector Group - avenue E. van Nieuwenhuyse 4 bât 2, B1160
Bruxelles, Belgium

www.ceep-phosphates.org




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