I nicked my pants the other day, although thankfully not my leg while
sawing some smaller diameter trees I was cutting up for kindling. Close
enough for me to figure it's time to get some safety clothing.

I live in NH and Labonville is well noted for its chaps but while
getting a saw file the other day I noticed that Husqvarna makes a set
of safety pants.

Does anyone on the group have experience with these? They seem like
they might afford a bit more protection than where the chaps are
exposed, and perhaps be easier to move in. I see they also make a
chainsaw resistant shirt.

Any ideas or comments are appreciated.

Ross

I have a pair of these and they work great. I have some ear muffs a hat
and a face shield as well.

Just wish I knew how to use a chainsaw!

Lyle



-----Original Message-----
From: woodheat@yahoogroups.com [mailto:woodheat@yahoogroups.com] On
Behalf Of erossphelps
Sent: Sunday, July 02, 2006 6:16 AM
To: woodheat@yahoogroups.com
Subject: [woodheat] Husqvarna Forestry Safety Pants?


I nicked my pants the other day, although thankfully not my leg while
sawing some smaller diameter trees I was cutting up for kindling. Close
enough for me to figure it's time to get some safety clothing.

I live in NH and Labonville is well noted for its chaps but while
getting a saw file the other day I noticed that Husqvarna makes a set
of safety pants.

Does anyone on the group have experience with these? They seem like
they might afford a bit more protection than where the chaps are
exposed, and perhaps be easier to move in. I see they also make a
chainsaw resistant shirt.

Any ideas or comments are appreciated.

Ross


--

Checked by AVG Free Edition.
Version: 7.1.394 / Virus Database: 268.9.5/376 - Release Date: 6/26/2006

I have the Husq pants as well.  Fortunately  I havent needed them ;)
Luke
erossphelps wrote:

>
> I nicked my pants the other day, although thankfully not my leg while
> sawing some smaller diameter trees I was cutting up for kindling. Close
> enough for me to figure it's time to get some safety clothing.
>
> I live in NH and Labonville is well noted for its chaps but while
> getting a saw file the other day I noticed that Husqvarna makes a set
> of safety pants.
>
> Does anyone on the group have experience with these? They seem like
> they might afford a bit more protection than where the chaps are
> exposed, and perhaps be easier to move in. I see they also make a
> chainsaw resistant shirt.
>
> Any ideas or comments are appreciated.
>
> Ross
>
>

Dear Ross,

Have you ever heard of Kevlar, well this is another life & limb saving
application of that material from Husqvarna. The saw chain will stop turning &
arrest penetration thru the pants & shirt using the Kevlar fibres.You could
experience some minor contusions (cuts) & extensive bruising, but you will
survive from the misfortune.

John Locke

[Non-text portions of this message have been removed]

Good to see you're being sensible Ross. Safety gear is a must. Eye
and ear protection are essential of course, but hand, leg and foot
protection is pretty handy if you value your limbs and realise that
anyone can make a mistake. The shirts seem less useful though, since
it is generally quite difficult to hit your upper body with the saw.
An exception is if you do a lot of work that involves sawing at a
height above your shoulder. In that case, kickback can bring the saw
down in an arc to hit your shoulder. I've seen shirts with just
shoulder protection for that reason.

A word of warning from experience though. Be very careful about
becoming complacent when wearing the gear. I was cutting up a fallen
tree on the ground last year and I started sawing very close to my
feet, thinking I was safe because I was wearing my Husqvarna boots.
Stupid I know. Then there was a small kickback and the pint of the
saw bounced off my foot. Within a fraction of a second, it had gone
right through the kevlar, down to the cotton boot lining. A fraction
of a millimetre away from my foot! So although if I had not been
wearing the boots, I would probably have only one and a half feet
left now, I also believe that if I had not been wearing the boots, I
would have been more careful. As it is I was lucky.

Protective gear should not be used a substitute for being sensible
and careful, but as an addition.

Mark

********************************************************************

NOTICE: The information contained in this email and any attachments
is confidential and may be privileged.  If you are not the intended
recipient you should not use, disclose, distribute or copy any of
the content of it or of any attachment; you are requested to notify
the sender immediately of your receipt of the email and then to
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represent the views of NCBI


********************************************************************

Hello,

Can anyone offer me their experiences on TARM Multi Fuel boilers? I am
thinking of replacing my old boiler and I am thinking about the Tarm
Multi Fuel boiler. I am looking to burn wood and oil, I have heard
that the boiler will switch over if the wood fire goes out.

Is the efficiency good? I have a fireplace insert and get burn times
of 6 to 7 hours, is this comparable to the Tarm. Is the fire starting
diifficult?

For those who have one, would you do it again? Any tips you can share?
Anything you would have done differently?

Thanx in advance.......

Eric

I wear the chaps myself, but as someone else said they are no
replacement for common sence.
  Found myself cutting, everything was down on the ground in piles,
just cutting to stove length. I had a large pile and was doing
gymnastics getting the best angle for some cuts. Well I looked and
the saw would have been going down very close to my foot, dropped the
saw and rode to the nearest Redwing dealer. Now I wont start the saw
without steel toe boots on
Rock
PS My wood pile is slowly growing, hopefully to that 2 year supply
(Is that the wood cutters Nirvana?)
--- In woodheat@yahoogroups.com, "erossphelps" <erossphelps@...>
wrote:
>
>
> I nicked my pants the other day, although thankfully not my leg
while
> sawing some smaller diameter trees I was cutting up for kindling.
Close
> enough for me to figure it's time to get some safety clothing.
>
> I live in NH and Labonville is well noted for its chaps but while
> getting a saw file the other day I noticed that Husqvarna makes a
set
> of safety pants.
>
> Does anyone on the group have experience with these? They seem like
> they might afford a bit more protection than where the chaps are
> exposed, and perhaps be easier to move in. I see they also make a
> chainsaw resistant shirt.
>
> Any ideas or comments are appreciated.
>
> Ross
>

How often do you change the hydraulic fluid in your splitter?  Changed
mine according to the hours in the manual.  (ATF dexron III)  Didn't
smell burned amd looked fine.  Kind of felt like I was wasting
perfectly good fluid.  Thoughts opinions?

Ed

Maintenance by the book is never a waste.  Maintenance at half the time
suggested is the cheapest "repair" you can do.  I change oil on all my
vehicles every 2500 miles and have a 77 pickup with the original engine that
has over 300K on it and still does not burn oil between changes.  A couple
of bucks for oil and filter will go a long way in the long run.

Jim

   _____

From: woodheat@yahoogroups.com [mailto:woodheat@yahoogroups.com] On Behalf
Of llkey2
Sent: Wednesday, July 05, 2006 18:08
To: woodheat@yahoogroups.com
Subject: [woodheat] Hydraulic fluid change



How often do you change the hydraulic fluid in your splitter? Changed
mine according to the hours in the manual. (ATF dexron III) Didn't
smell burned amd looked fine. Kind of felt like I was wasting
perfectly good fluid. Thoughts opinions?

Ed






[Non-text portions of this message have been removed]

Thanks to all for the input.

I ended up going with a set of Kevlar chaps. I tried
on the Husqvarna pants and some other pants and they
were heavy, hot and didn't have quite as much
protected area as the chaps have. I already had
steel-toed boots but since I got a good deal I also
bought a helmet with ear protectors and face mask and
saw resistant gloves.

Certainly common sense and knowing what you are doing
are the best safety gear. The best advice I got from
my grandfather is that when you're holding a chain saw
imagine that it's a rattlesnake that will bite you if
you're not careful.

__________________________________________________
Do You Yahoo!?
Tired of spam?  Yahoo! Mail has the best spam protection around
http://mail.yahoo.com

Well, my old Poulan 2050 finally died yesterday. I had it for 9 nine
years although it has been a pain along and along. It seems like I've
replaced just about everything on it. Yesterday the fuel lines
literally came apart so I replaced them, when I went to start it, it
just wasn't right. Couldn't get the carb adjusted so that it would
idle without chain running or keep running when I put it down. So, I
splurged and got a Stihl 210 to replace it. Man, what a difference,
smooth running, not nearly as much vibration, oh and very very easy
starting. I opted for their new Easy2Start feature. With this feature
you literally just ease the rope out and it starts. I couldn't believe
it myself until I tried it at the dealer. Dealer said you are winding
a spring then the spring unloads it's potential energy to crank the
engine. No more herky jerky starts or tough compression to overcome. I
would recommend this saw to anyone looking for a good saw that will
last. Oh and this new saw compliments my old Stihl 028AV bought back
in 1977 which is still running strong. I'll never stray away from
Stihl again.

Nothing like a Stihl - it will last for years.

cwharper77 wrote:
>
> Well, my old Poulan 2050 finally died yesterday. I had it for 9 nine
> years although it has been a pain along and along. It seems like I've
> replaced just about everything on it. Yesterday the fuel lines
> literally came apart so I replaced them, when I went to start it, it
> just wasn't right. Couldn't get the carb adjusted so that it would
> idle without chain running or keep running when I put it down. So, I
> splurged and got a Stihl 210 to replace it. Man, what a difference,
> smooth running, not nearly as much vibration, oh and very very easy
> starting. I opted for their new Easy2Start feature. With this feature
> you literally just ease the rope out and it starts. I couldn't believe
> it myself until I tried it at the dealer. Dealer said you are winding
> a spring then the spring unloads it's potential energy to crank the
> engine. No more herky jerky starts or tough compression to overcome. I
> would recommend this saw to anyone looking for a good saw that will
> last. Oh and this new saw compliments my old Stihl 028AV bought back
> in 1977 which is still running strong. I'll never stray away from
> Stihl again.
>
>

--- In woodheat@yahoogroups.com, Keith McHugh <keithmchugh@...> wrote:
>
> Nothing like a Stihl - it will last for years.
>
Except maybe a HUSKY.  My Husky 50 turns 18 this year and has only had
two parts replaced, the chain brake handle which broke when the saw
fell 10 feet out of a tree and the fuel cap which leaked.

Good equipement comes in at least two colors and both are hard to
beat.  A few weeks ago I helped my dad cut two 20 inch gum trees, in
NC, using his Poulan woodshark.  What an awful saw, vibrates, stalls,
no power.  My hands were numb for hours afterwards!  I was tempted to
go to the nearest dealer (stihl or Husky) and buy whatever they had in
stock 60 to 70 CC, thats how bad this Poulan was (don't even talk to
me about chain sharpening, it was not the chain).

Steve in WI.

I went through the dilema of husky or stihl.  The final factor was I
could buy the Husky online for a better price than a comparable Stihl
which I could not find for sale online.  I only paid $358 for a model
359 with free shipping and no tax.  I have had the saw for 5 years
and it hasn't missed a beat.  I used it to clear the lot I live on
and find it has plenty of power and is real smooth.
---

In woodheat@yahoogroups.com, "tdstevenhall" <tdstevenhall@...> wrote:
>
> --- In woodheat@yahoogroups.com, Keith McHugh <keithmchugh@> wrote:
> >
> > Nothing like a Stihl - it will last for years.
> >
> Except maybe a HUSKY.  My Husky 50 turns 18 this year and has only
had
> two parts replaced, the chain brake handle which broke when the saw
> fell 10 feet out of a tree and the fuel cap which leaked.
>
> Good equipement comes in at least two colors and both are hard to
> beat.  A few weeks ago I helped my dad cut two 20 inch gum trees,
in
> NC, using his Poulan woodshark.  What an awful saw, vibrates,
stalls,
> no power.  My hands were numb for hours afterwards!  I was tempted
to
> go to the nearest dealer (stihl or Husky) and buy whatever they had
in
> stock 60 to 70 CC, thats how bad this Poulan was (don't even talk
to
> me about chain sharpening, it was not the chain).
>
> Steve in WI.
>

This may be a dumb question but I am new at burning wood so please bear
with me.  I am able to get a couple of cords of free pine and hemlock
trees if I cut the downed trees up and haul them off myself.  What I
need to know is can I burn pine or hemlock in my wood stove?  I have a
Dutchwest catalytic stove.  Several people have told me not to burn
either one because they have too much creosote and will start chimney
fires.  Is this true?  I plan on letting the wood dry for at least a
year before burning it indoors.  Any advice is greatly appreciated.

At 7-7-2006 20:18, James wrote:

>This may be a dumb question but I am new at burning wood so please bear
>with me. I am able to get a couple of cords of free pine and hemlock
>trees if I cut the downed trees up and haul them off myself. What I
>need to know is can I burn pine or hemlock in my wood stove? I have a
>Dutchwest catalytic stove. Several people have told me not to burn
>either one because they have too much creosote and will start chimney
>fires. Is this true? I plan on letting the wood dry for at least a
>year before burning it indoors. Any advice is greatly appreciated.

I do it and a few others here do it too. With pine you just have to
be more careful than with other wood.

Rene, Dutchman lost in France

--- In woodheat@yahoogroups.com, "James" <james_esq@...> wrote:
>
> This may be a dumb question but I am new at burning wood so please bear
> with me.  I am able to get a couple of cords of free pine and hemlock
> trees if I cut the downed trees up and haul them off myself.  What I
> need to know is can I burn pine or hemlock in my wood stove?  I have a
> Dutchwest catalytic stove.  Several people have told me not to burn
> either one because they have too much creosote and will start chimney
> fires.  Is this true?  I plan on letting the wood dry for at least a
> year before burning it indoors.  Any advice is greatly appreciated.
>


***I asked this same question about a month or 2 ago. I've burned a
little pine ocassionally and have never had a problem, but like you,
have more than normal for this year. From what everyone said, as long
as it is well seasoned, and you don't burn one of those ocassional
pieces that have gunk oozing out of them, you'll be fine. (as long as
you're using good burning techniques) Do a search for a thread called
"the truth about burning pine" or something like that...it has a lot
of good responses there.

And no, it is NOT a dumb question, especially considering all the
misinformation and myths around burning wood.

--- In woodheat@yahoogroups.com, "Dan & Lu" <Hostanut@...> wrote:
>
> I've got a Riteway Model 37 out in the shop. It's a wood/coal
burner but has only seen wood. Great unit IMO.
>
> Here is a message a member sent me when I asked about Riteway a
few years ago:
>
> Riteway was sold to Fireside Gallery 5 miles south of MT. Sterling
Kentucky on HWY # 11 ph # 1-888-276-3204 hope this helps.
>
>
>
> www.firesidegallery.com
>
>
> [Non-text portions of this message have been removed]
>
You wouldn't happen to have a users manual for your Riteway Model
37? After scanning the emails in woodheat, I am begining to believe
my furnase is actually a Model 37!

James,

Pine is fantastic for kindling. To use for the main burn, might split it in
slightly larger pieces than you would oak as
pine decomposes faster - experimentation req'd here. I think you'll find that
the inside of the stove soots up more, but not necessarily the chimney -  try
not to brush your arm against the inside of the loading door while feeding. If
you keep the cat lit until the wood is reduced to coals, you won't have much of
a problem with creosote in the chimney. Pine is more susceptible to being
too-dry, also, as it decomposes faster. Symptoms: lots of acrid white smoke from
chimney with a hot cat. There is no harm in watching your chimney output, no
matter what wood you are burning, btw.

Bill Meszko
Fort Worth

-----Original Message-----
From: woodheat@yahoogroups.com [mailto:woodheat@yahoogroups.com]On Behalf Of
James
Sent: Friday, July 07, 2006 1:19 PM
To: woodheat@yahoogroups.com
Subject: [woodheat] Can you burn pine and hemlock in wood stoves?



This may be a dumb question but I am new at burning wood so please bear
with me. I am able to get a couple of cords of free pine and hemlock
trees if I cut the downed trees up and haul them off myself. What I
need to know is can I burn pine or hemlock in my wood stove? I have a
Dutchwest catalytic stove. Several people have told me not to burn
either one because they have too much creosote and will start chimney
fires. Is this true? I plan on letting the wood dry for at least a
year before burning it indoors. Any advice is greatly appreciated.







[Non-text portions of this message have been removed]

Hi James,

As has been previousely posted, burn it as long as it's well seasoned.
I mix it in with hardwood through out the season, use it to freshen up
a whimpy bed of coals in the morning and also use it for flash fires
and kindling. It sure isn't a dumb question, it's been asked and
answered often here, how else would I have known??? Take care.

Bob, Davenport NY




--- In woodheat@yahoogroups.com, "James" <james_esq@...> wrote:
>
> This may be a dumb question but I am new at burning wood so please
bear
> with me.  I am able to get a couple of cords of free pine and hemlock
> trees if I cut the downed trees up and haul them off myself.  What I
> need to know is can I burn pine or hemlock in my wood stove?  I have
a
> Dutchwest catalytic stove.  Several people have told me not to burn
> either one because they have too much creosote and will start chimney
> fires.  Is this true?  I plan on letting the wood dry for at least a
> year before burning it indoors.  Any advice is greatly appreciated.
>

Eric

I don't have a multi-fuel unit but I do have a hot water oil furnace
and a Tarm which is plumbed in with it. The set up works well.
I would think combo units are a compromise in performance.
But of greater concern I see them like those tv/vcr combo units
my kids wanted. I explained to them, you have 2 units in 1. If
one breaks then you essentially have half a functioning unit.
They bought separate pieces, a better TV and a better VCR
for about the same total cost, which they were happy about later
when the TV was killed by a lightening strike.
Anyway, my oil furnace is getting tired and could be replaced for
a more efficient modern model but my Tarm looks like it will be
around much longer.

Miro

   ----- Original Message -----
   From: egulbran ; egulbran
   To: miro@...
   Sent: Monday, July 03, 2006 8:30 AM
   Subject: [woodheat] Ref: Tarm Multi Fuel Boiler


   Hello,

   Can anyone offer me their experiences on TARM Multi Fuel boilers? I am
   thinking of replacing my old boiler and I am thinking about the Tarm
   Multi Fuel boiler. I am looking to burn wood and oil, I have heard
   that the boiler will switch over if the wood fire goes out.

   Is the efficiency good? I have a fireplace insert and get burn times
   of 6 to 7 hours, is this comparable to the Tarm. Is the fire starting
   diifficult?

   For those who have one, would you do it again? Any tips you can share?
   Anything you would have done differently?

   Thanx in advance.......

   Eric





[Non-text portions of this message have been removed]

I've got a late seventies Tempwood stove that a friend gave me last
year. The stove is steel. I just noticed it has developed a little
surface rust this summer because it is very humid here. I don't feel
like dragging the stove to the shop and sand blasting it, so I'm
hoping  someone can tell me the best (non-invasive) way to neutralize
the surface rust before I apply stoveblack to protect it. Would going
over the rust with kerosene and a rag do the trick?  I don't really
want to take a wire brush to it since that will take off more finish
than I think is necessary. I've tried those chemicals that turn the
rust into zinc, but when you fire the stove it turns an ugly white color.

Any suggestions would help.

Thanks,

-York

Have you tried just using plain Naval Jelly on the rust. I usually use a small
fine wire brush on a drill to remove some of the heavier deposits of rust,then
wipe the dust off with a damp wash rag. Rustoleum makes a hi-temp stove black
paint that you can either brush on or spray on. Just some thoughts and ideas to
consider.

Gabe Angel, Founder of:
http://www.groups.yahoo.com/group/castironstoveenthusiast

---------------------------------
Talk is cheap. Use Yahoo! Messenger to make PC-to-Phone calls.  Great rates
starting at 1¢/min.

[Non-text portions of this message have been removed]

Short answer: Yes and No.

Longer version:
I burned pine last December for one month.  Normally, I check the
chimney every month as a precaution.  After looking at the chimney, I
had to clean it.  I had more chimeny buildup in one month than in the
entire previous winter season.  The woodheat board group agreed that
pine is an ok wood to burn which means that my technique was
insufficient.

My technique was insufficient in 2 ways.  First, Pine must be dried
well.  My rack drying method and 1 summer time frame was insufficient
for the pine that I collected.  My drying rack and one summer is fine
for maple and ash, but not so good for drying pine.  We also had a few
weeks of rain last summer which did not help the situation.  Second, I
would burn the pine overnight, and try to get a long burn time.
Damping down a stove filled with pine, adds to the creasote buildup in
my chimney.  In order to prevent the buildup, I need a sufficient
amount of air, along with a hot fire.  These things do not get me an
overnight burn with a soft wood like pine.

Facing reality.  I don't have enough space to dry wood for two summers
and if I did, it would not be a soft wood like pine.  Because of the
space issue, I avoid all pine.  In my area, given the number of people
who prepare their own wood, I can choose from the cream of the wood
that my neighbors are throwing away and still collect my 2.5 cords by
the end of April.

Yes, you can burn pine.  You just have to dry it well, and burn it
hot.  As a precaution, you should still check your chimney
periodically.

Sam






--- In woodheat@yahoogroups.com, "James" <james_esq@...> wrote:
>
> This may be a dumb question but I am new at burning wood so please
bear
> with me.  I am able to get a couple of cords of free pine and hemlock
> trees if I cut the downed trees up and haul them off myself.  What I
> need to know is can I burn pine or hemlock in my wood stove?  I have
a
> Dutchwest catalytic stove.  Several people have told me not to burn
> either one because they have too much creosote and will start chimney
> fires.  Is this true?  I plan on letting the wood dry for at least a
> year before burning it indoors.  Any advice is greatly appreciated.
>

out in the woods other day dropped 3 trees cut them into to sections.
I was just clearing the path to where i was going to stack, cut a
little sapling, like 1"thick. Well it fell hit me in the face, I went
to kick it and my chap covered leg just brushed the still moving chain.
  If I had not had them on, it could have been bad.
  I have told myself everytime since that moment, do nothing till chain
stops period.
Rock

Good reminder...
   When things get hot during the summer months,
   I have the tendency to neglect using my chaps to spare
   excess sweating, but I guess I should think differently.

   Rob

agoldink <agoldink@...> wrote:
           out in the woods other day dropped 3 trees cut them into to sections.
I was just clearing the path to where i was going to stack, cut a
little sapling, like 1"thick. Well it fell hit me in the face, I went
to kick it and my chap covered leg just brushed the still moving chain.
If I had not had them on, it could have been bad.
I have told myself everytime since that moment, do nothing till chain
stops period.
Rock






---------------------------------
Sneak preview the  all-new Yahoo.com. It's not radically different. Just
radically better.

[Non-text portions of this message have been removed]

Eric,     The Tarm excel is great.  If you are going away all you need
to do is throw a switch and it is on oil.  If you get a buffer tank you
will burn little or zero oil even if you are gone a few days depending
on  size of your heating needs.     How many feet are  you heating?  The
Tarm on oil is probably not as efficient as an oil only boiler but I
don't think there is a great difference. Also take a look at
Alternateheatingsystems.com.  Compared to a wood stove, you will burn
about 1/2 the amount of wood but that assumes all other things are
equal.  Jim.             Hello,

Can anyone offer me their experiences on TARM Multi Fuel boilers? I am
thinking of replacing my old boiler and I am thinking about the Tarm
Multi Fuel boiler. I am looking to burn wood and oil, I have heard
that the boiler will switch over if the wood fire goes out.

Is the efficiency good? I have a fireplace insert and get burn times
of 6 to 7 hours, is this comparable to the Tarm. Is the fire starting
diifficult?

For those who have one, would you do it again? Any tips you can share?
Anything you would have done differently?

Thanx in advance.......

Eric



[Non-text portions of this message have been removed]

> I have told myself everytime since that moment, do nothing till chain
> stops period.

Stories like yours give me the shivers Rock. I learned to use a
chainsaw on a course run by Coillte, the Irish Forestry Department.
It was a week long course and a good deal of it was devoted to
safety. One thing that we were taught right from the start was that
as soon as you stop cutting, you flick your wrist forward to apply
the chain break. Then the chain stops immediately and can never be
still moving when you don't intend it to be. As a result of that
training it is automatic for me to apply the brake and I don't even
have to think about it. All day - brake on, brake off, brake on,
brake off, although I've seen other people using a saw without ever
using the brake. I wondered at the start of my course why it should
take a whole week to learn how to use a saw to cut down a tree, but
most of it turned out to be practising safe use over and over, until
it became automatic. Before the course, I had three different people
offer to teach me to use a saw. Turned out that all three of them had
saw injuries. Two had gashed legs and one was missing one and a half
fingers! Boy am I glad I went for the pro training. I'm the kind of
person who would be delimbed or dead by now if safety wasn't
automatic to me.

Mark

P.s. Heard some horror stories on the training course too. Ugh!

********************************************************************

NOTICE: The information contained in this email and any attachments
is confidential and may be privileged.  If you are not the intended
recipient you should not use, disclose, distribute or copy any of
the content of it or of any attachment; you are requested to notify
the sender immediately of your receipt of the email and then to
delete it and any attachments from your system.

NCBI endeavours to ensure that emails and any attachments generated
by its staff are free from viruses or other contaminants.  However,
it cannot accept any responsibility for any such which are
transmitted.  We therefore recommend you scan all attachments.

Please note that the statements and views expressed in this email
and any attachments are those of the author and do not necessarily
represent the views of NCBI


********************************************************************

I think your cost if any is wated is in the tranny fluid your buying.
I use tractor hydrulic fluid, and a good filter. The filter is about
$20.00 US change it once a year. Year I could put a big block Ford
filter on there, but it is not the same.
  What did your splitter cost new, what does it cost to replace it? Go
out and split by hand for 3-4 hours, then you'll have the real value
of how much the filter is worth!
Use the old fluid to slick your hair back, or give it to someone with
a waste oil furnace.
Rock
   --- In woodheat@yahoogroups.com, "llkey2" <llkey2@...> wrote:
>
> How often do you change the hydraulic fluid in your splitter?
Changed
> mine according to the hours in the manual.  (ATF dexron III)  Didn't
> smell burned amd looked fine.  Kind of felt like I was wasting
> perfectly good fluid.  Thoughts opinions?
>
> Ed
>s

--- In woodheat@yahoogroups.com, Mark Magennis <mark.magennis@...>
wrote:
<< as soon as you stop cutting, you flick your wrist forward to apply
> the chain break. Then the chain stops immediately and can never be
> still moving when you don't intend it to be.
> Mark>>

  VERY GOOD
  I never had anyone teach me to use a saw, and that idea is great! I
will start to practice that every time I use the saw.
  There seems to be a common thread to accidents, they are mostly when
someone was only cutting a limb or clearing a path we have all heard
it before.
  When your dropping a 36" tree you have respect for that tree and what
it can do, have laid out (at least in your mind) your escape route,
your cutting sequence etc, but just a couple limbs should get the same
respect, because it is the same saw cutting them.
  Limbs don't grow back but sweat does wash off, so wear the gear.
Rock
PS when I said it hit me in the face, I meant the facesheild on my
woodsman helmet, but it still startled me.