Josée wrote:

> Hi, John! This is the information I got from John Wood at Jade Mountain:

Boy, you really got the hard sell from Jade.  I infer from what he says that
the Thermo-Control is 25 year old technology.  Considering the incredible
evolution of wood burning in the 25 years I have been involved, that is not
something I would invest in.  I remain skeptical about all the claims.  My
attitude remains: if it is not EPA certified, it will not have a competent
combustion system, no matter how much hype is provided.  My advice, for what
it is worth, is to select a product that is EPA certified, buy it from a
mainstream manufacturer and a dealer who can support the product.

> What's it like living in a 24' X 24' house? WHERE DID YOU PUT YOUR
> STAIRS???? DO YOU HAVE A POST/COLUMN SOMEWHERE OR IS IT ALL OPEN?

We love our little house and have been living in it for 11 years.  The
stairwell goes up the centre and provides structural support for ceilings.
There was, however, some tricky framing to support the
livingroom/kitchen/dining room ceiling without needing a dropped beam.  I
didn't do it, my clever builder did.  The house has a full basement plus 2
1/2 stories.  The foot of all the staircases (3) in the house are butted up
against an outside wall and have either a small landing or sweep at the
bottom to reduce their length.  Plus the stairs are steeper than stairs in
houses with bigger floor plans.  It is a delicate balance, but it seems
fine.  I go up and down these stairs many times a day since I work on the
third floor, and I never find them too steep.  Maybe I will when I'm
seventy.

Our medium-sized EPA certified non-catalytic stove does a good job of
heating the house.  We heat in the coldest weather with hardwood, but I'm
sure I could heat the place with Poplar, but it might mean loading it more
often in very cold weather.

> You should hold off disconnecting yourself from the grid as they
> will likely
> be forced to allow net metering and you could sell your excess
> power back to
> them and recover some of that capital investment. Power companies
> will have
> to do this soon with the lobby forces in place and they will realize it's
> just good P.R. once everybody starts allowing it. If you get a Trace SW
> series inverter, you will be all ready to go. They also make the little
> microsine inverters that mount directly onto the modules and
> voila, you are
> generating AC - you can put two 50W modules on one Microsine.

Yes, I'm aware of that, thanks.  My plan to go off grid is partly
metaphorical and partly political.  Mainly, I want to disentangle myself, to
the extent possible, from the corruption of centralized corporate energy
suppliers.

Regards,
John Gulland
The Wood Heat Organization Inc.
www.woodheat.org
A non-commercial service in support of responsible home heating with wood

KGBrown wrote:
> I just bought a home with a 40', metal, outside flue for the
> fireplace.  It's in Hartland, Vermont, USA.  Am I in trouble from the
> get go here?  From what I've read, I have two things working against
> me.
> 1.   The flue is outside.
> 2.   It gets to -15 deg F here sometimes.
>
> Any thoughts, help, leads?

I think your assessment is correct, based on simple physics.  When the
temperature in the flue falls a few degrees below room temperature, the
house will begin to function as a better chimney than the chimney, and air
will be sucked down the chimney by the negative pressure low in the house
due to stack effect.  The actual frequency and severity of cold backdrafts
in any given system depends on a lot of factors, but the taller the system
and the colder the weather, the stronger the backdraft and the harder it
will be to correct.

Some people recommend installing a chase around the chimney to keep it warm,
but I've seen enclosed chimneys backdraft because the chase leaked cold
outside air and because, without heat input from the house, even the inside
of a chase will eventually cool.  If you have a very strong backdraft, I
wouldn't recommend a chase, unless you want to spend a lot of money on it.

I would investigate re-installing the system inside the house.  I know that
sounds outrageous, but it can, and has been done.  On the other hand, if
this is a cheap factory-built fireplace, then its poor performance wouldn't
likely justify the expense, even if it worked to its potential.  You could
save up your money and install a good EPA certified fireplace and be able to
view the spectacular fire and heat a good part of the house with it.

But, I guess the best thing to do is try it this coming winter and see how
much of a pain it is to live with.  With a system like yours, with a high
potential for strong backdraft, my worry is that, even if you could get a
fire burning, as it recedes to a coal bed the system could go into a hot
backdraft and fill the house with smoke and carbon monoxide.  This is why
correcting a cold backdraft by temporarily opening a nearby window to
neutralize stack effect is sometimes not such a good idea.

Good luck with it.

Regards,
John Gulland
The Wood Heat Organization Inc.
www.woodheat.org
A non-commercial service in support of responsible home heating with wood

Hi Everyone,
My name is John Olsen and I am in the business of compacting Bio-mass
( sawdust here in B.C.) into burnable logs.
regards
John Olsen hempcreeation@...

I have been looking at a wood stove made by Woodstock Soapstone Co.
I live in a raised ranch house in Southern New England. There is a
fireplace in the downstairs. However, I would like to put a free
standing wood stove in the living room upstairs. I can't figure out
if this is the best way to go. There are 3 bedrooms upstairs, kitchen
and living room. The stove is attractive and since i am upstairs much
more than downstairs I seem to think this is a better spot. However,
the fireplace/hearth is downstairs. I would need to install floor
vents to get the heat upstairs. Any ideas?  Thank you.

a wood stove is more efficient than a fireplace, which takes most of the
heat up the chimney. heat rises. put a insert in the fireplace, put in the
vents, and you have the best of both. a woodstove upstairs may cook you out.
--
Steve Spence
Subscribe to the Renewable Energy Newsletter:
http://www.webconx.com/subscribe.htm

Renewable Energy Pages - http://www.webconx.com
Palm Pilot Pages - http://www.webconx.com/palm
X10 Home Automation - http://www.webconx.com/x10
sspence@...
(212) 894-3704 x3154 - voicemail/fax
We do not inherit the earth from our ancestors,
we borrow it from our children.
--

----- Original Message -----
From: <twopostal_2000@...>
To: <woodheat@egroups.com>
Sent: Thursday, August 17, 2000 7:18 AM
Subject: [woodheat] new wood stove


> I have been looking at a wood stove made by Woodstock Soapstone Co.
> I live in a raised ranch house in Southern New England. There is a
> fireplace in the downstairs. However, I would like to put a free
> standing wood stove in the living room upstairs. I can't figure out
> if this is the best way to go. There are 3 bedrooms upstairs, kitchen
> and living room. The stove is attractive and since i am upstairs much
> more than downstairs I seem to think this is a better spot. However,
> the fireplace/hearth is downstairs. I would need to install floor
> vents to get the heat upstairs. Any ideas?  Thank you.
>
>
> --------------------------------------------------------------------------
------
>
>
>
> --------------------------------------------------------------------------
------
> Check THE woodheat web site at  www.woodheat.org
>
>
>

Steve's response seems reasonable on the one hand, but on the other hand, I
would have given the opposite advice.  I always advise people to put the
stove where they live.  If they spend most of their time in a downstairs
family room, that's where the stove should be.  But if they spend most of
their time in the kitchen/livingroom/diningroom area, that is the place to
put it.  You put it where you live so that:
* you can enjoy its beauty
* you can monitor its performance and adjust the controls as appropriate
* you don't waste fuel overheating the place you aren't in order to get some
heat to where you are

It is my experience that cutting holes in floors is not very effective,
unless you were to cut huge holes, which is not a good idea from a
privacy/noise transmission point of view.

My advice: put it where you live and enjoy it while it is running.  You can
find more discussion of this issue here:
http://www.nrcan.gc.ca/es/erb/reed/wood/04_e.html
(you might find a similarity between the contents of the linked booklet and
the advice I just gave; that's because I wrote the booklet for the Canadian
federal government)

Regards,
John Gulland
The Wood Heat Organization Inc.
www.woodheat.org
A non-commercial service in support of responsible home heating with wood

twopostal_2000@... wrote:
> I have been looking at a wood stove made by Woodstock Soapstone Co.
> I live in a raised ranch house in Southern New England. There is a
> fireplace in the downstairs. However, I would like to put a free
> standing wood stove in the living room upstairs. I can't figure out
> if this is the best way to go. There are 3 bedrooms upstairs, kitchen
> and living room. The stove is attractive and since i am upstairs much
> more than downstairs I seem to think this is a better spot. However,
> the fireplace/hearth is downstairs. I would need to install floor
> vents to get the heat upstairs. Any ideas?  Thank you.

Steve Spence responded
> a wood stove is more efficient than a fireplace, which takes most of the
> heat up the chimney. heat rises. put a insert in the fireplace, put in the
> vents, and you have the best of both. a woodstove upstairs may
> cook you out.

Any thoughts or recommendations on outdoor wood boilers please?



hump
thumphrey1@...





_______________________________________________________
Say Bye to Slow Internet!
http://www.home.com/xinbox/signup.html

built the original hahsa many years ago. the concept is certainly valid.
some companies do a better execution than others. at
http://www.webconx.com/wood_heat.htm you'll find Central Boiler listed. I
like the fact that the mess is outdoors, and some models only have to be
fired once or twice daily. baseboard or radiant floor heating are much
easier on the body than forced air. they make a great companion to solar
water panels.


--
Steve Spence
Subscribe to the Renewable Energy Newsletter:
http://www.webconx.com/subscribe.htm

Renewable Energy Pages - http://www.webconx.com
Palm Pilot Pages - http://www.webconx.com/palm
X10 Home Automation - http://www.webconx.com/x10
sspence@...
(212) 894-3704 x3154 - voicemail/fax
We do not inherit the earth from our ancestors,
we borrow it from our children.
--

----- Original Message -----
From: "Tim Humphrey" <thumphrey1@...>
To: <woodheat@egroups.com>
Sent: Monday, August 21, 2000 3:09 PM
Subject: [woodheat] outdoor boilers


>
> Any thoughts or recommendations on outdoor wood boilers please?
>
>
>
> hump
> thumphrey1@...
>
>
>
>
>
> _______________________________________________________
> Say Bye to Slow Internet!
> http://www.home.com/xinbox/signup.html
>
>
> --------------------------------------------------------------------------
------
>
>
>
> --------------------------------------------------------------------------
------
> Check THE woodheat web site at  www.woodheat.org
>
>
>

----- Original Message -----
From: Tim Humphrey
> Any thoughts or recommendations on outdoor wood boilers please?

Hi Tim.

We have an Aqua-Therm, made in Brooten, MN. I would recommend them, as
they have a stainless steel firebox, excellent service, and a generous
warranty. However, many other makes are selling lots of furnaces too,
and for a good reason. They want to establish a good reputation in order
to continue selling and making money.

Aqua-Therm is a bit different than other furnaces in that the water
jacket around the firebox only holds about 96(?) gallons of water on the
largest sizeed furnace. Most people want more reseve heated water for
times they are unable to tend the fire regularly. I like the idea of
having less hot water outside in the elements. Let's face it, an R-19
fiberglass batt is not enough to prevent alot of heat loss when
it's -10F or even worse at -30F.

Another advantage Aqua-Therm has is it's short, vertical stove pipe. It
is only three feet tall, with a baffle inside the firebox that's easily
removed for an annual cleaning.

If interested, call 1-800-325-2760 for a brochure.

Dennis Lindell

According to Natural Resources canada, Guide to residential wood
heating document " www.nrcan.gc.ca/es/erb/reed/wood/06_e.html "
single-wall flue pipe should be assembled crimped end(male) towards
the stove.
Does this also apply to double-wall sealed and double-wall vented
flue pipe?
Does this apply only for newer EPA clean burn stoves since many older
stoves have collars that fit the non-crimped(female) end of the flue
pipe?
In both cases these flue pipes should be fitted to the female end of
class "A" prefab metal chimney.

Hi Mario (I assume),

The CSA B365 (Canada) installation code requires that flue pipes be oriented
crimped end (male) down so that any condensates drain into the appliance,
not to the outside of the pipe, where, theoretically at least, they could
ignite and burn.  This requirement applies to all single wall pipes,
regardless of appliance category, new or old, EPA certified or not.

Yes, most antique appliances have flue collars meant for attachment of the
female end of the flue pipe outside the collar.  This is usually resolved by
cutting off the crimp on the first pipe and violating the code on that one
connection.  If you attempt to stuff a crimped end into a collar designed
for a female end, it will restrict the opening too much.  Note that each
single wall flue pipe joint must be fastened with three sheet metal screws
(#8 x 1/2, 1/8th drill).  This is particularly important on a pipe that has
no crimped end because this puts more stress on the vertical seam.

Although most factory-built chimneys are assembled male end up, note that
the inner liners assemble male end down (i.e., the upper liner slides inside
the lower section's liner.  You must have this orientation in a chimney to
keep condensates from filling the insulation space.  Also, there is usually
a flue pipe attachment collar that fits to the bottom section of metal
chimney.  It will be sized to fit inside the female end of standard single
wall flue pipe, i.e. crimped end down.

Double wall flue pipes must be installed according to the manufacturer's
instructions, whatever that may be.  But all the double wall pipes I've
worked with have inner liners that fit male end down to shed condensates.
Fitting double wall to an antique flue collar is sometimes a problem.  I
have used one half of a short telescopic section, which has a plain,
uncrimped end, as the starter section.  Your retailer may be able to suggest
another suitable alternative.

All of this talk of condensates suggest that you will always have them.  But
a good stove and a good installation well used will probably never have
liquids running down the inner liner.  Still, the code is the code and it
actually works just fine, even if you don't have a condensates problem.

Regards,
John Gulland
The Wood Heat Organization Inc.
www.woodheat.org
A non-commercial service in support of responsible home heating with wood

> Message: 1
>    Date: Sat, 02 Sep 2000 01:21:35 -0000
>    From: begin_mario@...
> Subject: Flue pipe assembly
>
> According to Natural Resources canada, Guide to residential wood
> heating document " www.nrcan.gc.ca/es/erb/reed/wood/06_e.html "
> single-wall flue pipe should be assembled crimped end(male) towards
> the stove.
> Does this also apply to double-wall sealed and double-wall vented
> flue pipe?
> Does this apply only for newer EPA clean burn stoves since many older
> stoves have collars that fit the non-crimped(female) end of the flue
> pipe?
> In both cases these flue pipes should be fitted to the female end of
> class "A" prefab metal chimney.
>
>
>
> ________________________________________________________________________
> ________________________________________________________________________
>
>
>

Good Day and thank you John Gulland for your quick and clear reply
about flue pipe assembly.
I will install a Pacific Energy VISTA wood stove with a 10inch high
pedestal base. The installation manual states: "Stove may be
installed on a combustible floor provided non-combustible protection
is used and protection must extend 18inch from firing side and 8inch
on all other sides".
There is no mention of thickness required. My floor is veneer with
linoleum cover. I intend to use 4'x4'x5/8" sheetrock or 4'x4'x1/8"
steel plate on top of 5/8inch Fireguard Gypsum board. This exeeds the
extents requirements, is it ok for floor protection?
Is there a www link where I could read the B365 code?

Mario Begin

Mario,
I like to make a distinction between the terms 'floor protection' and 'floor
pad'.  Safety certified stoves like the Vista do not need floor protection
from heat from the bottom of the stove.  During certification the stoves are
placed on a flat black painted plywood floor which has temperature sensors
on its surface.  The stove must not overheat the floor or it fails the test.
(Note to US readers: US standards place the thermocouples under a floor pad
[don't know why], so the requirements are different there)

Safety certified stoves just need a floor pad to prevent burns from hot
coals or logs rolling out of the loading door.  The minimum pad is a sheet
of 0.38 mm (0.015 in.) thick metal that, as you say, extends 18" to the
front and 8" on the other sides.  You don't need to bother with anything
under the steel sheet, unless you want to (I sure wouldn't use something as
flimsy as sheetrock).  Grouted ceramic tiles are also deemed to comply.

So, a floor pad is a simple thing, defined in B365 as "a durable,
noncombustible pad that will provide ember protection".

No, there is no link to B365, mainly because sales of the standard are what
finance CSA committee work and publication costs.  Besides, the price of the
1991 edition was $55, I think, quite a lot to get a simple question
answered.  Some of its key requirements for clearances and flue pipes are
found here:
http://www.nrcan.gc.ca/es/erb/reed/wood/06_e.html

Regards,
John Gulland
The Wood Heat Organization Inc.
www.woodheat.org
A non-commercial service in support of responsible home heating with wood

> -----Original Message-----
> From: woodheat@egroups.com [mailto:woodheat@egroups.com]
> Sent: Sunday, September 10, 2000 3:21 AM
> To: woodheat@egroups.com
> Subject: [woodheat] Digest Number 17
.
> Message: 1
>    Date: Sun, 10 Sep 2000 03:10:05 -0000
>    From: begin_mario@...
> Subject: Floor protection
>
> Good Day and thank you John Gulland for your quick and clear reply
> about flue pipe assembly.
> I will install a Pacific Energy VISTA wood stove with a 10inch high
> pedestal base. The installation manual states: "Stove may be
> installed on a combustible floor provided non-combustible protection
> is used and protection must extend 18inch from firing side and 8inch
> on all other sides".
> There is no mention of thickness required. My floor is veneer with
> linoleum cover. I intend to use 4'x4'x5/8" sheetrock or 4'x4'x1/8"
> steel plate on top of 5/8inch Fireguard Gypsum board. This exeeds the
> extents requirements, is it ok for floor protection?
> Is there a www link where I could read the B365 code?
>
> Mario Begin
>
>
>
> ________________________________________________________________________
> ________________________________________________________________________
>
>
>

I've got a hundred year old house with a brick chimney inside the
house.  It's lined with teracotta, but the liner is cracked and
eroded.  Basically, it's structurally sound but unsafe for the
woodstove, so I haven't used it.

I've investigated having it lined with either the thermacrete or the
metal liners, and both are way out of my price range.  But so's oil
this year.  So I've been thinking about chimney repair alternatives,
and here's what I've come up with.

Idea one, install one of those outside metal double wall chimneys.
Don't like this idea much.  I can afford it, but barely, and the unit
would look deranged as all get out.  Not to mention the problems with
a cold chimney.

Idea two, install black flue pipes in the old chimney, and use that
as the liner.  I rather like this idea, as I could do the work, and
could afford it.  The more I think about it, the more it sounds like
a good idea to me.  I could also use vermiculite around it if that's a
good idea (can't decide on that one).  Flue pipe doesn't last
forever, but it certainly lasts for several years, and I could easily
replace it when I needed to.  Heck, I could even do it annually!  The
mechanics of the installation really would be simple.  Just build up
the bottom of the existing chimney with something like  vermiculite
to the level of the existing thimble, so it would support the vertical
section.  Then run the 20 feet up to the top of the existing old
chimney with black pipe.  Pour vermiculite around around the black
pipe if needed. Seal and cap the chimney.

Am I totally off base on this?  It sounds so reasonable that I'm sure
there's got to be a major flaw in this that I'm overlooking.  Because
if I'm right, I could have a good working safe chimney for about $100.

Hi,
Does anyone know what type of fireplace heat exchanger is best?..and
where to get one?  I've been told that my 45' outside flue would not
be suitable for an insert...why, I don't know....flue gasses not hot
enough for our Vermont weather?
Thanx,
KGBrown

>KG,
I have no idea why you can't put an insert into your fireplace.
Outside isn't great but it's done every day in weather at least as
cold as VT. It may require a fancy (expensive) chimney liner..if
there are extenuating circumstances. A fireplace heat exchanger is no
match for a fireplace insert in amount of wood burned, and other
areas of performance. Can you get a second (third?) opinion on your
situation?
Cal

>you wrote..Hi,
>Does anyone know what type of fireplace heat exchanger is best?..and
>where to get one?  I've been told that my 45' outside flue would not
>be suitable for an insert...why, I don't know....flue gasses not hot
>enough for our Vermont weather?
>Thanx,
>KGBrown
>

Hi,

>I'd say that your idea isn't so hot. An outside air insulated
>chimney is not a good idea. But neither is using black smioke pipe
>inside your terra cotta fleus.

The black pipe will have an very short life..VERY short... I've heard
this idea from many folks. I only know only one person who did it.
His black pipe lasted a year or year and a half. He was annoyed.

I'd recommend spending about 4x more on Stainless rigid liner
designed for lining chimneys, and Don't Insulate. This will make a
good chimney for a reasonable price based on the info you supplied.

Vermiculite around the liner (whether SS or black pipe) will cause
the liner to rip when it tries to expand, and the insulation holds
it,. I have had a fair amount of experience with exactly this many
year sago when liners where a gleam in our eyes. It is really a
hassle and didn't improve performance much on the stoves we had then
I don't think much has changed since.

Installing rigid liner is not an easy job..not one you would like to
do  annually ..unless you got more time and patience than most people.
Cal

>
>you wrote......I've got a hundred year old house with a brick
>chimney inside the house.  It's lined with teracotta, but the liner
>is cracked and
>eroded.  Basically, it's structurally sound but unsafe for the
>woodstove, so I haven't used it.
>
>I've investigated having it lined with either the thermacrete or the
>metal liners, and both are way out of my price range.  But so's oil
>this year.  So I've been thinking about chimney repair alternatives,
>and here's what I've come up with.
>
>Idea one, install one of those outside metal double wall chimneys.
>Don't like this idea much.  I can afford it, but barely, and the unit
>would look deranged as all get out.  Not to mention the problems with
>a cold chimney.
>
>Idea two, install black flue pipes in the old chimney, and use that
>as the liner.  I rather like this idea, as I could do the work, and
>could afford it.  The more I think about it, the more it sounds like
>a good idea to me.  I could also use vermiculite around it if that's a
>good idea (can't decide on that one).  Flue pipe doesn't last
>forever, but it certainly lasts for several years, and I could easily
>replace it when I needed to.  Heck, I could even do it annually!  The
>mechanics of the installation really would be simple.  Just build up
>the bottom of the existing chimney with something like  vermiculite
>to the level of the existing thimble, so it would support the vertical
>section.  Then run the 20 feet up to the top of the existing old
>chimney with black pipe.  Pour vermiculite around around the black
>pipe if needed. Seal and cap the chimney.
>
>Am I totally off base on this?  It sounds so reasonable that I'm sure
>there's got to be a major flaw in this that I'm overlooking.  Because
>if I'm right, I could have a good working safe chimney for about $100.

I have an existing open fireplace that I'm thinking of converting to
something useful (ie. efficient source of heat). There don't appear
to be too many dealers who sell wood burning inserts. Unfortunately I
am serviced by natural gas, and don't want to invest in LPG at the
moment. Money is an issue - the only company I talked to, Elmira
Stove Works, wants around $2700 for an insert, installed, which
includes the stainless steel liner. Is that about as low as they go,
or can someone suggest an alternate.

Thanks in advance.

Hello!
We recently bought some property (along with a house), and the land is
mostly wooded.  Our house is a combination mobile home/with extra
built-on rooms, over a poured concrete basement.  We have a large
furnace in the basement with a woodburner setting about 4 feet away.
What we would like to do is to connect the woodburner to the ductwork
for the furnace, and have it heat our home additionally.  The woodburner
has its own separate chimney.  Does anyone know where I can find
information on what to do to connect the two - or do you have any
suggestions?

Jen

can't help u much about where to buy in canada, but here's a URL for an
online woodstove store. if nothing else, u can use for comparison pricing.
mark

http://secure02.ecommercesoftware.com/cgi-bin/ncommerce3/ExecMacro/lehmans/searc\
hdet.dw/report?prrfnbr=37056&searchtext=Hearth%20Heater&searchtype=S1&FROM_CAT_R\
EF=


At 02:19 PM 9/28/2000 +0000, you wrote:
>I have an existing open fireplace that I'm thinking of converting to
>something useful (ie. efficient source of heat). There don't appear
>to be too many dealers who sell wood burning inserts. Unfortunately I
>am serviced by natural gas, and don't want to invest in LPG at the
>moment. Money is an issue - the only company I talked to, Elmira
>Stove Works, wants around $2700 for an insert, installed, which
>includes the stainless steel liner. Is that about as low as they go,
>or can someone suggest an alternate.
>
>Thanks in advance.
>
>
>
>
>
>Check THE woodheat web site at  www.woodheat.org

You wrote:
>Money is an issue - the only company I talked to, Elmira
> Stove Works, wants around $2700 for an insert, installed, which
> includes the stainless steel liner. Is that about as low as they go,
> or can someone suggest an alternate.
>

$2500 to $3000 is the normal range for a steel insert installed with a
liner.  Cast iron would be more.  There must be more stores than one that
sell wood inserts in S. Ontario.  I think you just need to look harder and
maybe travel a little further to find them.

Regards,
John Gulland
The Wood Heat Organization Inc.
www.woodheat.org
A non-commercial service in support of responsible home heating with wood

Jen wrote:
> What we would like to do is to connect the woodburner to the ductwork
> for the furnace, and have it heat our home additionally.  The woodburner
> has its own separate chimney.  Does anyone know where I can find
> information on what to do to connect the two - or do you have any
> suggestions?
>

You haven't said what type of 'woodburner' you are talking about.  If it is
a wood stove, you should not connect it to the furnace.  If it is a wood
furnace, you should follow the manufacturer's instructions.

Although the idea of connecting wood stoves to furnace duct work
is one considered by many people who heat
with wood, is among the more dangerous things you can try.  It is
specifically prohibited in building codes, and for good reason -- the hot
backdrafting that can result can fill a house with smoke within minutes
which is hazardous if it happens overnight.  There is a brief note on this
subject at the bottom of this page:
  http://www.nrcan.gc.ca/es/erb/reed/wood/04_e.html
The same article does provide suggestions for the indirect use of furnace
fans for gradual heat distribution.  I use that system in my house and it
works great.

If you want a woodburning device that can be used as a forced air furnace,
buy a forced air wood furnace.  Space heaters are for heating spaces and
must not be connected to circulation fans and duct systems.

Regards,
John Gulland
The Wood Heat Organization Inc.
www.woodheat.org
A non-commercial service in support of responsible home heating with wood

What is the minimum distance that a certified wood stove can be
installed from an electrical receptacle? Do I simply follow stove
manufacturer's tolerance to combustible wall or is there a code
provision specific to electrical plug-ins? In my case, the plug-in is
on the backwall and would be 60cm along backwall from nearest side
edge of stove.

> You haven't said what type of 'woodburner' you are talking about.  If it is
> a wood stove, you should not connect it to the furnace.  If it is a wood
> furnace, you should follow the manufacturer's instructions.
>
> Although the idea of connecting wood stoves to furnace duct work
> is one considered by many people who heat
> with wood, is among the more dangerous things you can try.  It is
> specifically prohibited in building codes, and for good reason -- the hot
> backdrafting that can result can fill a house with smoke within minutes
> which is hazardous if it happens overnight.  There is a brief note on this
> subject at the bottom of this page:
>  http://www.nrcan.gc.ca/es/erb/reed/wood/04_e.html
> The same article does provide suggestions for the indirect use of furnace
> fans for gradual heat distribution.  I use that system in my house and it
> works great.
>
> If you want a woodburning device that can be used as a forced air furnace,
> buy a forced air wood furnace.  Space heaters are for heating spaces and
> must not be connected to circulation fans and duct systems.
>
> Regards,
> John Gulland
> The Wood Heat Organization Inc.
> www.woodheat.org
>
>
>

John,
   Thank you for directing me to the article...
   What he have exactly is an old Lennox coal furnace.  It had a case around it
at one time which was removed - now looks like a pot-bellied stove.  It has
been used as a woodburner for 20 years or so without a problem.
   When you say to use the furnace fan for heat distribution - I'm not sure how
to go about doing this.  We thought about making some type of shield or dome
which would capture the heat into a duct which connects to the furnace
ductwork. And this would be distributed to the entire house by using a separate
thermostat or blower working on a timer. Does this sound OK?  It would not be
attached to the 'woodburner' physically - only from a distance over the top.

Jen

We are moving to a new home and taking our woodstove with us.
How close to a lathe and plaster wall can we set the stove?  We have an
Earth stove.
Thanks,
Anne

I recently joined a group that sends teams to Haiti, to build,
construct, fix, and generally help improve life in off-grid villages.
They came to me to ask for help creating energy systems that would
work in Off-Grid, Low-Tech environments. This is a place to discuss
such types of systems. Electricity, Hot water production, Well
Pumping, clean water production, insulated buildings etc.

visit http://www.egroups.com/group/3rdworldenergy

Anne wrote:
We are moving to a new home and taking our woodstove with us.
How close to a lathe and plaster wall can we set the stove?  We have an
Earth stove.
Thanks,
Anne
________________________________________________________________________
________________________________________________________________________
Ann,
There should be a label on the back of the stove that will give you the
basic clearances.  Failing that, call an Earth Stove dealer.  Clearances are
specific to the stove model, so no general statement can be made.

Regards,
John Gulland
The Wood Heat Organization Inc.
http://www.woodheat.org
A non-commercial service in support of responsible home heating with wood

Jen wrote:
   What he have exactly is an old Lennox coal furnace.  It had a case around
it
at one time which was removed - now looks like a pot-bellied stove.  It has
been used as a woodburner for 20 years or so without a problem.
   When you say to use the furnace fan for heat distribution - I'm not sure
how
to go about doing this.  We thought about making some type of shield or dome
which would capture the heat into a duct which connects to the furnace
ductwork. And this would be distributed to the entire house by using a
separate
thermostat or blower working on a timer. Does this sound OK?  It would not
be
attached to the 'woodburner' physically - only from a distance over the top.
==============================================
Jen,
I'll repeat: you are heading for a dangerous situation.  You are treating
wood heat as if it was a "folk technology".  It is not.  You need
professional help.  Go and visit some dealers and get some advice.  Going
cheap on wood heat by hacking something together the way you are proposing
is how houses burn down and people get injured or killed.
Regards,
John Gulland
The Wood Heat Organization Inc.
http://www.woodheat.org
A non-commercial service in support of responsible home heating with wood