http://www.tjernlund.com/retail/default.htm#

The basement fan looks interesting also

--- On Sun, 7/24/11, 2scott@... <2scott@...> wrote:

From: 2scott@... <2scott@...>
Subject: [woodheat] interesting chimney booster fan here
To: woodheat@yahoogroups.com
Date: Sunday, July 24, 2011, 8:56 AM
















 













http://www.tjernlund.com/retail/default.htm#



























[Non-text portions of this message have been removed]

DId I miss the interesting part?  It would be interesting to be both in the
dark, and cold, when the power goes out.  It might be a better idea to just fix
the chimney, so that you have draft all of the time.

On the other hand, the inline duct fans could be help move cold air back from
the far end of a poorly designed house and into the stove room.  This can help
move warm air down the central hall way of a ranch house(sorry, a poorly
designed house).  I would price shop for inline duct fans, these seem a little
more expensive than they need to be.  Quality could be a decision point, but the
fans don't seem to be branded, thus it would be hard to make a choice based on
price alone.

Sam




--- In woodheat@yahoogroups.com, 2scott@... wrote:
>
>
>
> http://www.tjernlund.com/retail/default.htm#
>

Seems to me the chimney booster fan would be an aid to getting
everything started and then turn it off.  This would help avoid
that pesky tendency to fill the house up with smoke when you
are first building the fire.

--- On Mon, 7/25/11, taborl@... <taborl@...> wrote:

> From: taborl@... <taborl@...>
> Subject: [woodheat] Re: interesting chimney booster fan here
> To: woodheat@yahoogroups.com
> Date: Monday, July 25, 2011, 7:10 PM
> DId I miss the interesting
> part?  It would be interesting to be both in the dark,
> and cold, when the power goes out.  It might be a
> better idea to just fix the chimney, so that you have draft
> all of the time. 
>
> On the other hand, the inline duct fans could be help move
> cold air back from the far end of a poorly designed house
> and into the stove room.  This can help move warm air
> down the central hall way of a ranch house(sorry, a poorly
> designed house).  I would price shop for inline duct
> fans, these seem a little more expensive than they need to
> be.  Quality could be a decision point, but the fans
> don't seem to be branded, thus it would be hard to make a
> choice based on price alone. 
>
> Sam     
>
>
>
>
> --- In woodheat@yahoogroups.com,
> 2scott@... wrote:
> >
> >
> >
> > http://www.tjernlund.com/retail/default.htm#
> >
>
>
>
>
> ------------------------------------
>
> Check THE woodheat web site at  http://www.woodheat.org
> To receive no more messages email:  woodheat-unsubscribe@yahoogroups.com
> Yahoo! Groups Links
>
>
>     woodheat-fullfeatured@yahoogroups.com
>
>
>

Even if the chimney was on the edge and only needed a little help to get going,
the problem is that the fan(and its mass) is still in the way once the fire is
going.  You would need a lot more draft to overcome the blockage caused by the
fan's housing.  Since the chimney that needs the fan is already compromised(low
draft), placing this much hardware on top of the chimney will most likely "not"
permit you to turn off the fan.  It blocks too much of the surface area.

Also, if you could turn it off, you would have to be concerned with collapse of
the draft when the fire is dying down.  That could be serious.  If it were me, I
would work on fixing the chimney issues instead of trying to put a band aid on a
poor situation.

As for the duct fans, and moving cold air from the far reaches of the house to
the stove room, that type of mechanical aid is effective in a poorly designed
ranch house.  My house is that type of 40 foot wide ranch, which can use a
little help moving heat down that central hall.  I installed the cold air return
duct work last summer using the 6 inch duct fan($39 from Lowes).  The duct work
runs from the bedroom back to the living room where the wood stove is located. 
This system is not instantaneous at moving a lot of heat, but after 2 hours of
moving cold air to the living room, it evens out the heat between the living
room and the rooms to a differential of about 5 degrees F.  It is also a feature
that allowed me to cut another 1/3 off my NG heating bill last winter.  It paid
for itself in one heating season.

Sam










--- In woodheat@yahoogroups.com, Scott Perkins <2scott@...> wrote:
>
> Seems to me the chimney booster fan would be an aid to getting
> everything started and then turn it off.  This would help avoid
> that pesky tendency to fill the house up with smoke when you
> are first building the fire.
>
> --- On Mon, 7/25/11, taborl@... <taborl@...> wrote:
>
> > From: taborl@... <taborl@...>
> > Subject: [woodheat] Re: interesting chimney booster fan here
> > To: woodheat@yahoogroups.com
> > Date: Monday, July 25, 2011, 7:10 PM
> > DId I miss the interesting
> > part?  It would be interesting to be both in the dark,
> > and cold, when the power goes out.  It might be a
> > better idea to just fix the chimney, so that you have draft
> > all of the time. 
> >
> > On the other hand, the inline duct fans could be help move
> > cold air back from the far end of a poorly designed house
> > and into the stove room.  This can help move warm air
> > down the central hall way of a ranch house(sorry, a poorly
> > designed house).  I would price shop for inline duct
> > fans, these seem a little more expensive than they need to
> > be.  Quality could be a decision point, but the fans
> > don't seem to be branded, thus it would be hard to make a
> > choice based on price alone. 
> >
> > Sam     
> >
> >
> >
> >
> > --- In woodheat@yahoogroups.com,
> > 2scott@ wrote:
> > >
> > >
> > >
> > > http://www.tjernlund.com/retail/default.htm#
> > >
> >
> >
> >
> >
> > ------------------------------------
> >
> > Check THE woodheat web site at  http://www.woodheat.org
> > To receive no more messages email:  woodheat-unsubscribe@yahoogroups.com
> > Yahoo! Groups Links
> >
> >
> >     woodheat-fullfeatured@yahoogroups.com
> >
> >
> >
>

Anybody mention that it simply cost too damned much for what it supposedly
does for you?

On Tue, Jul 26, 2011 at 8:05 PM, <taborl@...> wrote:

> **
>
>
> Even if the chimney was on the edge and only needed a little help to get
> going, the problem is that the fan(and its mass) is still in the way once
> the fire is going. You would need a lot more draft to overcome the blockage
> caused by the fan's housing. Since the chimney that needs the fan is already
> compromised(low draft), placing this much hardware on top of the chimney
> will most likely "not" permit you to turn off the fan. It blocks too much of
> the surface area.
>
> Also, if you could turn it off, you would have to be concerned with
> collapse of the draft when the fire is dying down. That could be serious. If
> it were me, I would work on fixing the chimney issues instead of trying to
> put a band aid on a poor situation.
>
> As for the duct fans, and moving cold air from the far reaches of the house
> to the stove room, that type of mechanical aid is effective in a poorly
> designed ranch house. My house is that type of 40 foot wide ranch, which can
> use a little help moving heat down that central hall. I installed the cold
> air return duct work last summer using the 6 inch duct fan($39 from Lowes).
> The duct work runs from the bedroom back to the living room where the wood
> stove is located. This system is not instantaneous at moving a lot of heat,
> but after 2 hours of moving cold air to the living room, it evens out the
> heat between the living room and the rooms to a differential of about 5
> degrees F. It is also a feature that allowed me to cut another 1/3 off my NG
> heating bill last winter. It paid for itself in one heating season.
>
> Sam
>
> --- In woodheat@yahoogroups.com, Scott Perkins <2scott@...> wrote:
> >
> > Seems to me the chimney booster fan would be an aid to getting
> > everything started and then turn it off. This would help avoid
> > that pesky tendency to fill the house up with smoke when you
> > are first building the fire.
> >
> > --- On Mon, 7/25/11, taborl@... <taborl@...> wrote:
> >
> > > From: taborl@... <taborl@...>
> > > Subject: [woodheat] Re: interesting chimney booster fan here
> > > To: woodheat@yahoogroups.com
> > > Date: Monday, July 25, 2011, 7:10 PM
> > > DId I miss the interesting
> > > part?  It would be interesting to be both in the dark,
> > > and cold, when the power goes out.  It might be a
> > > better idea to just fix the chimney, so that you have draft
> > > all of the time.
> > >
> > > On the other hand, the inline duct fans could be help move
> > > cold air back from the far end of a poorly designed house
> > > and into the stove room.  This can help move warm air
> > > down the central hall way of a ranch house(sorry, a poorly
> > > designed house).  I would price shop for inline duct
> > > fans, these seem a little more expensive than they need to
> > > be.  Quality could be a decision point, but the fans
> > > don't seem to be branded, thus it would be hard to make a
> > > choice based on price alone.
> > >
> > > Sam
> > >
> > >
> > >
> > >
> > > --- In woodheat@yahoogroups.com,
> > > 2scott@ wrote:
> > > >
> > > >
> > > >
> > > > http://www.tjernlund.com/retail/default.htm#
> > > >
> > >
> > >
> > >
> > >
> > > ------------------------------------
> > >
> > > Check THE woodheat web site at  http://www.woodheat.org
> > > To receive no more messages email:
> woodheat-unsubscribe@yahoogroups.com
> > > Yahoo! Groups Links
> > >
> > >
> > >     woodheat-fullfeatured@yahoogroups.com
> > >
> > >
> > >
> >
>
>
>



--
Donald Russell


[Non-text portions of this message have been removed]

I mentioned this in the first place because of my interest since
having installed something similar but in my case I  used
a shop vacuum for the air flow and I used the venturi effect
principle to make sure there were no obstructions in the
existing chimney.   From my short glance at the fan
and the installation, I thought it was a squirrel cage
fan mounted on the exterior of the chimney pipe with
no internal obstruction at all.

--- On Tue, 7/26/11, taborl@... <taborl@...> wrote:

> From: taborl@... <taborl@...>
> Subject: [woodheat] Re: interesting chimney booster fan here
> To: woodheat@yahoogroups.com
> Date: Tuesday, July 26, 2011, 8:05 PM
> Even if the chimney was on the edge
> and only needed a little help to get going, the problem is
> that the fan(and its mass) is still in the way once the fire
> is going.  You would need a lot more draft to overcome
> the blockage caused by the fan's housing.  Since the
> chimney that needs the fan is already compromised(low
> draft), placing this much hardware on top of the chimney
> will most likely "not" permit you to turn off the fan. 
> It blocks too much of the surface area.   
>
> Also, if you could turn it off, you would have to be
> concerned with collapse of the draft when the fire is dying
> down.  That could be serious.  If it were me, I
> would work on fixing the chimney issues instead of trying to
> put a band aid on a poor situation.
>
> As for the duct fans, and moving cold air from the far
> reaches of the house to the stove room, that type of
> mechanical aid is effective in a poorly designed ranch
> house.  My house is that type of 40 foot wide ranch,
> which can use a little help moving heat down that central
> hall.  I installed the cold air return duct work last
> summer using the 6 inch duct fan($39 from Lowes).  The
> duct work runs from the bedroom back to the living room
> where the wood stove is located.  This system is not
> instantaneous at moving a lot of heat, but after 2 hours of
> moving cold air to the living room, it evens out the heat
> between the living room and the rooms to a differential of
> about 5 degrees F.  It is also a feature that allowed
> me to cut another 1/3 off my NG heating bill last
> winter.  It paid for itself in one heating season.
>
> Sam             
>
>      
>
>  
>
>
>
>
>
>
> --- In woodheat@yahoogroups.com,
> Scott Perkins <2scott@...> wrote:
> >
> > Seems to me the chimney booster fan would be an aid to
> getting
> > everything started and then turn it off.  This
> would help avoid
> > that pesky tendency to fill the house up with smoke
> when you
> > are first building the fire.
> >
> > --- On Mon, 7/25/11, taborl@... <taborl@...>
> wrote:
> >
> > > From: taborl@... <taborl@...>
> > > Subject: [woodheat] Re: interesting chimney
> booster fan here
> > > To: woodheat@yahoogroups.com
> > > Date: Monday, July 25, 2011, 7:10 PM
> > > DId I miss the interesting
> > > part?  It would be interesting to be both in the
> dark,
> > > and cold, when the power goes out.  It might be
> a
> > > better idea to just fix the chimney, so that you
> have draft
> > > all of the time. 
> > >
> > > On the other hand, the inline duct fans could be
> help move
> > > cold air back from the far end of a poorly
> designed house
> > > and into the stove room.  This can help move
> warm air
> > > down the central hall way of a ranch house(sorry,
> a poorly
> > > designed house).  I would price shop for inline
> duct
> > > fans, these seem a little more expensive than
> they need to
> > > be.  Quality could be a decision point, but the
> fans
> > > don't seem to be branded, thus it would be hard
> to make a
> > > choice based on price alone. 
> > >
> > > Sam     
> > >
> > >
> > >
> > >
> > > --- In woodheat@yahoogroups.com,
> > > 2scott@ wrote:
> > > >
> > > >
> > > >
> > > > http://www.tjernlund.com/retail/default.htm#
> > > >
> > >
> > >
> > >
> > >
> > > ------------------------------------
> > >
> > > Check THE woodheat web site at  http://www.woodheat.org
> > > To receive no more messages email:  woodheat-unsubscribe@yahoogroups.com
> > > Yahoo! Groups Links
> > >
> > >
> > >     woodheat-fullfeatured@yahoogroups.com
> > >
> > >
> > >
> >
>
>
>
>
> ------------------------------------
>
> Check THE woodheat web site at  http://www.woodheat.org
> To receive no more messages email:  woodheat-unsubscribe@yahoogroups.com
> Yahoo! Groups Links
>
>
>     woodheat-fullfeatured@yahoogroups.com
>
>
>

I have owned a Ryobi for three years with no issues. I use it with my lathe for
trimming pieces to size but cut firewood when I don't want to listen to the
Stihl 039.  I keep in the basement in the winter to trim pieces that are too big
to go in the stove. I can't see cutting up a large supply with an electric but
they do work.
Just my 2 cents

--- In woodheat@yahoogroups.com, Donald Russell <russell.donaldrussell@...>
wrote:
>
> Sears Craftsman brand saws are made by Poulan. (just a little info for
> anybody shopping for one)
>
> On Wed, May 25, 2011 at 12:49 PM, Keith <milsurplus1@...> wrote:
>
> >
> >
> > Poulan makes a decent electric. Good for around the house. Stay away from
> > the Remmington brand. I have used a Poulan electric for five years and it
> > still works great. I wouldn't spend a dime on their gas saws though.
> >
> >
> >
http://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B00080OD9Q/ref=pd_lpo_k2_dp_sr_1?pf_rd_p=486539\
851&pf_rd_s=lpo-top-stripe-1&pf_rd_t=201&pf_rd_i=B000E130DO&pf_rd_m=ATVPDKIKX0DE\
R&pf_rd_r=1H03TA5N1ZHM3TRN9GCH
> >
> > --- In woodheat@yahoogroups.com, Joanne Lunt <pablobaby99@> wrote:
> > >
> > > Do to a shoulder replacement, I am no longer able to use my chain saw.
> > Can't
> > > pull on the cord.  Does anyone out there have any recommendations for an
> > > electric saw?  Guess I'm looking for the same info as Pete and  the best
> > place
> > > to buy one.  Thanks for any help.  Joanne
> > >
> > > [Non-text portions of this message have been removed]
> > >
> >
> >
> >
>
>
>
> --
> Donald Russell
>
>
> [Non-text portions of this message have been removed]
>

I'm not sure how many people have a wood lot but I have a few pine trees that I
girdled two years ago that are standing, dry and nearly bark free. These are my
spring time firewood supply. This past spring I was burning old dry pine that
had been dead for three years. Worked like a charm, very little ash,and kept the
house warm with minimal work. We also leave the dead elm standing until we need
them.

Anyone else do this?

Before you go electric, you might try the Stihl gas saws with the "easy2start"
feature, available up to the MS290!  My 11 year son was able to pull an MS-180
no problem.  Just a slow gentle pull, when you get to the end the spring you
have wound up spins the engine.

Steve

--- In woodheat@yahoogroups.com, gggGary <yahoogroups@...> wrote:
>
> One sure fire answer is from a local dealer who supports it and stocks
> parts and consumables....  If shoulders are an issue you may want to see
> if any of the newer saws have a soft start or other "anti grab"
> features.  IIRC Electric saws are high torque and can jerk you around
> some.  Proper chain sharpening may be even more critical on an electric saw.
>
> gggGary
>
>
> On 5/24/2011 2:47 PM, Joanne Lunt wrote:
> >
> > Do to a shoulder replacement, I am no longer able to use my chain
> > saw.  Can't
> > pull on the cord.  Does anyone out there have any recommendations for an
> > electric saw?  Guess I'm looking for the same info as Pete and  the
> > best place
> > to buy one.  Thanks for any help.  Joanne
> >
> > [Non-text portions of this message have been removed]
> >
> >
>
>
> [Non-text portions of this message have been removed]
>

SirSham,

I have a question about this.  Does girdling somehow facilitate the process of
seasoning while standing?  I found an oak that had seasoned standing.  It was a
very pleasant surprise.

Oldrider

   ----- Original Message -----
   From: SirSham
   To: woodheat@yahoogroups.com
   Sent: Monday, August 01, 2011 8:23 PM
   Subject: [woodheat] Spring wood II



   I'm not sure how many people have a wood lot but I have a few pine trees that
I girdled two years ago that are standing, dry and nearly bark free. These are
my spring time firewood supply. This past spring I was burning old dry pine that
had been dead for three years. Worked like a charm, very little ash,and kept the
house warm with minimal work. We also leave the dead elm standing until we need
them.

   Anyone else do this?





[Non-text portions of this message have been removed]

In Missouri, with our Oak and Hickory hardwoods, a dead standing tree after only
about one year is already rotting.  I guess it is the temperature/humidity
combination here.  I have found that I must not only cut the tree down but buck
it into stove wood length before I set it aside for splitting to stop the rot. 
I even have to make sure I leave the chunks laying on their sides otherwise they
soak up ground moisture and rot.

--- In woodheat@yahoogroups.com, "SirSham" <shamus14u@...> wrote:
>
> I'm not sure how many people have a wood lot but I have a few pine trees that
I girdled two years ago that are standing, dry and nearly bark free. These are
my spring time firewood supply. This past spring I was burning old dry pine that
had been dead for three years. Worked like a charm, very little ash,and kept the
house warm with minimal work. We also leave the dead elm standing until we need
them.
>
> Anyone else do this?
>

I have an old (15+ years old) Craftman electric that gets a lot of use by the
wood shed.  It needs sharpening and filling with oil and that's it.  I have
three gas saws.  The Huskvara is the only one running and gets a lot of use out
in the woods where the electric won't go.  I like having both.  I'd never be
without an electric saw which requires virtually no fixing - unlike the gas one,
and they cost a fraction of the gas brothers.  Just my opinion.

Harry

--- In woodheat@yahoogroups.com, "StevenH" <tdstevenhall@...> wrote:
>
> Before you go electric, you might try the Stihl gas saws with the "easy2start"
feature, available up to the MS290!  My 11 year son was able to pull an MS-180
no problem.  Just a slow gentle pull, when you get to the end the spring you
have wound up spins the engine.
>
> Steve
>
> --- In woodheat@yahoogroups.com, gggGary <yahoogroups@> wrote:
> >
> > One sure fire answer is from a local dealer who supports it and stocks
> > parts and consumables....  If shoulders are an issue you may want to see
> > if any of the newer saws have a soft start or other "anti grab"
> > features.  IIRC Electric saws are high torque and can jerk you around
> > some.  Proper chain sharpening may be even more critical on an electric saw.
> >
> > gggGary
> >
> >
> > On 5/24/2011 2:47 PM, Joanne Lunt wrote:
> > >
> > > Do to a shoulder replacement, I am no longer able to use my chain
> > > saw.  Can't
> > > pull on the cord.  Does anyone out there have any recommendations for an
> > > electric saw?  Guess I'm looking for the same info as Pete and  the
> > > best place
> > > to buy one.  Thanks for any help.  Joanne
> > >
> > > [Non-text portions of this message have been removed]
> > >
> > >
> >
> >
> > [Non-text portions of this message have been removed]
> >
>

I have to build some racks to hold my firewood for this winter. I want to use 2
x 4s with brackets to hold the rack together. I have seen several types online.
Does anyone have recommendations for which one to get?

Thanks,

Ken

I use a cheapo method that works really well, does not create a permanent
structure, and is maintenance-free....
 
I stack the wood on pallets in a double-row, but that is not important.
 
At both ends of the row, I tap a pole in the ground to brace it at the bottom. 
The vertical pole is the height of what will be the finished woodpile.
When the woodpile is finished, the vertical ends of the woodpile will be held in
place by these poles.
Build up the woodpile a few feet.
In the middle of the pole, (half way up), tie a nylon cord to the pole.  Extend
the other end of the cord about five feet horizontally over the woodpile and
wrap the end around one piece of firewood.
Finish building the woodpile.
 
The pressure of the wood stacked on top of the cord and surrounding the piece it
is wrapped around will keep the pole in place, and the pole will be held
perfectly vertical as you continue to stack wood against it.  When you are
done, you have a nice rectangular woodpile with a pole on each end.  All you
can see of the cord is where it is tied to the pole in the middle.
 
Cover the wood pile.  My wood piles remain stable for several years until they
are used.
 
Bob
 
 


 -----Original Message-----
From: "wtrecat" [kenf01@...]
Date: 08/10/2011 07:35 AM
To: woodheat@yahoogroups.com
Subject: [woodheat] Firewood Rack Brackets

Note: Original message sent as attachment

[Non-text portions of this message have been removed]

Drywall screws?  I have a rack in my garage I build each winter and
remove each spring.  I think it's on it's 4th year now, I just use long
drywall screws.  Drilling pilot holes reduces splitting.

gggGary


On 8/10/2011 6:35 AM, wtrecat wrote:
>
> I have to build some racks to hold my firewood for this winter. I want
> to use 2 x 4s with brackets to hold the rack together. I have seen
> several types online. Does anyone have recommendations for which one
> to get?
>
> Thanks,
>
> Ken
>
>


[Non-text portions of this message have been removed]

yea, I have thought the firewood rack brackets are a rip off
especially since all I have seen are plastic.  I however would
lean toward quarter inch bolts with nut and washer on the
end to clamp the boards together.  In that situation, much
of the stiffness comes from the clamping and not just the
shear strength of the bolts.
I would use two bolts per corner/angle.
Scott

--- On Wed, 8/10/11, gggGary <yahoogroups@...> wrote:

> From: gggGary <yahoogroups@...>
> Subject: Re: [woodheat] Firewood Rack Brackets
> To: woodheat@yahoogroups.com
> Date: Wednesday, August 10, 2011, 10:10 AM
> Drywall screws?  I have a rack
> in my garage I build each winter and
> remove each spring.  I think it's on it's 4th year
> now, I just use long
> drywall screws.  Drilling pilot holes reduces
> splitting.
>
> gggGary
>
>
> On 8/10/2011 6:35 AM, wtrecat wrote:
> >
> > I have to build some racks to hold my firewood for
> this winter. I want
> > to use 2 x 4s with brackets to hold the rack together.
> I have seen
> > several types online. Does anyone have recommendations
> for which one
> > to get?
> >
> > Thanks,
> >
> > Ken
> >
> >
>
>
> [Non-text portions of this message have been removed]
>
>
>
> ------------------------------------
>
> Check THE woodheat web site at  http://www.woodheat.org
> To receive no more messages email:  woodheat-unsubscribe@yahoogroups.com
> Yahoo! Groups Links
>
>
>     woodheat-fullfeatured@yahoogroups.com
>
>
>

I use recycled Unistrut and conduit (2") welded together. Works great, won't
rot, cheap.

--- In woodheat@yahoogroups.com, "wtrecat" <kenf01@...> wrote:
>
> I have to build some racks to hold my firewood for this winter. I want to use
2 x 4s with brackets to hold the rack together. I have seen several types
online. Does anyone have recommendations for which one to get?
>
> Thanks,
>
> Ken
>

I just smoked my little Poulan so I'm shopping too.

I got it for $40. at Sears a couple of yerrs ago and it was so handy I overused
it. It cut up a couple of cords (almost) but now it's dead.

The next one is gonna be heavier duty.

Too bad they don't make a 220v little saw.

--- In woodheat@yahoogroups.com, "Pete" <circular@...> wrote:
>
> Anybody have any experience with electric chain saws? Do they work well enough
to cut up some firewood, log diameters usually under 14 inches or so. I'm not
felling trees or anything. Do they have enough power? Are they tough enough? I'm
getting tired of wrestling with my gas saw.
> Pete
>

Contractors dump scrap lumber and cinderblocks in the park next to me.  I bring
that stuff home.  I put 2 X 6s across cinderblocks for horizontal supports for
my firewood.  For end posts I nail 2 treated 2 X 4s together.  This setup lasts
for years.  The park is completely wild and serves as my woodlot.  I never cut
down trees, but use fallen branches.  Sometimes the county takes down large
trees and leaves them sawed up to stove length.  My neighbors also give me lots
of wood.

Oldrider
Silver Spring MD
   ----- Original Message -----
   From: Tim
   To: woodheat@yahoogroups.com
   Sent: Thursday, August 11, 2011 1:43 PM
   Subject: [woodheat] Re: Firewood Rack Brackets



   I use recycled Unistrut and conduit (2") welded together. Works great, won't
rot, cheap.

   --- In woodheat@yahoogroups.com, "wtrecat" <kenf01@...> wrote:
   >
   > I have to build some racks to hold my firewood for this winter. I want to
use 2 x 4s with brackets to hold the rack together. I have seen several types
online. Does anyone have recommendations for which one to get?
   >
   > Thanks,
   >
   > Ken
   >





[Non-text portions of this message have been removed]

The racks all come down to what your time is worth.  If your time is worth
nothing, you can build as much stuff as you want.  However, there comes a point
when it becomes a deminshing return.

The cheap plastic stuff does fill a goal.  For about $20 and some 2x4s, if you
can keep it to less than 4 feet high, you can have a good row of wood.  I use
them in the garage for my in-house wood supply.  That is to say, my wood is not
frozen before I bring it in the house.

If you want more perminant racks, design them, so that the wood is off the
ground.  If it is 8 feet long and 5 feet high, and you can create a very good
drying system within a small space that holds about .35 cords.  Expanded to 9.5
feet long, you can almost get a half a cord in one.  I have done this with three
8' and one 9.5' single racks.  Easy to build, if you get the right cull PT wood
from your local big box store.  I have also built two twin raised racks.    The
first covers 14 linear feet and is 6 feet high at the end.  The picture in this
article(http://woodheat.org/woodpile/index.php?option=com_content&view=article&i\
d=75:how-to-discourage-energy-conservation&catid=15:user-experiences&Itemid=58 )
is of me filling one end of the large twin rack.  The rack is 9 inches off the
ground and rises 6 feet from that point.  By the time you get to the center of
the rack, the wood is almost 7.5 feet high.  Also the racks cradle the wood so
that when it dries and shrinks, it stays in the rack.  These hold about 1.5
cords in two rows.  Each rack takes a few hours to build, but since they are
pressure treated, they will last several years.  The one in the picture is 5
years old.

Metal pipe is also a good choice for strength.  it is easy to work with and can
be moved easily.  Just figure out what your time frame is worth, and how long
you would like to use this rack.  If built out of the right stuff, it can last a
long time.  Now I just wish that I could put up a proper wood shead.

Larry









--- In woodheat@yahoogroups.com, "wtrecat" <kenf01@...> wrote:
>
> I have to build some racks to hold my firewood for this winter. I want to use
2 x 4s with brackets to hold the rack together. I have seen several types
online. Does anyone have recommendations for which one to get?
>
> Thanks,
>
> Ken
>

Hello!

We are looking at making the switch from steel to cast iron and are considering
a small Dutchwest 2477 cast iron. Our home's entire square footage is 1200 so we
think it is big enough for us. We live in Eastern Canada so our winters are
generally harsh but our house is well insulated and surrounded by trees.

I guess my questions are this:

What is this learning curve I keep reading about when going from steel to cast
iron? Any feedback and help is appreciated.

Is Dutchwest (by VC) a good quality stove and does anyone have any experience
with it to share?

I really, really appreciate the help and input.
Regards,
Alisa

I've use several different stoves through the years, steel mostly, but now cast
iron.  I think that the difference between those two is less than the
differences that come about because of design.  For example, the stove I have
now is a Jotul, cast iron, and it puts out heat in all directions, except for
the bottom (there is a bottom heat shield, apparently required in the US
(?) )  I am finding this very satisfactory.  The stove is set on the
diagonal, so that the front glass is toward the living room seating area.  This
was just a sort of room design decision, but I'm finding that the heat radiates
toward the doorway of an adjacent room (side of the stove) and toward the
kitchen (sort of behind the stove) much better than my previous, bigger, steal
stove, which was set straight on the hearth.  I don't think that this has to do
with steal vs iron, but with design and placement.
 
Another example, my friend bought a new European stove that she has been
frustrated with because about 75% of the heat seems to come out toward the
front, through the glass.  The back doesn't radiate any heat, as there is a
sort of heat shield there, and the sides and top take a very long time to warm
up before they give off much warmth.  It is cast iron.  Again, I think it is a
design problem.  It seems to be mostly a stove that produces a very nice fire
to look at, but most of the heat goes up the chimney.
 
Based on what I've read in these group and on some of the wood stove on line
resources, DON'T GO BY THE SUPPOSED AMOUNT OF HEAT OR HOUSE SIZE that is listed
for a particular stove.  Too much depends on the layout of the house, the
placement of the stove, the height of the chimney, the type of wood, etc.  If
you have a knowledgeable dealer who knows your climate and has several different
brands of stoves available, hopefully, you will get credible advice.  One
dealer I visited, in another state, had cards by each stove that listed house
sizes that might be heated by that stove.  Since I was familiar with the stoves
I was looking at, I knew that these sizes were much smaller than the official
listings by the stove companies.  I asked about that.  The salesperson said
that they adjust the numbers for that climate.  That was mid-east-Wisconsin. 
That shows that that particular dealer really understands wood heating and his
stoves.
 
Andy
 
 

From: alisaduy <nguyenalisa1@...>
To: woodheat@yahoogroups.com
Sent: Saturday, August 13, 2011 7:40 PM
Subject: [woodheat] Dutchwest - good or bad?


 
Hello!

We are looking at making the switch from steel to cast iron and are considering
a small Dutchwest 2477 cast iron. Our home's entire square footage is 1200 so we
think it is big enough for us. We live in Eastern Canada so our winters are
generally harsh but our house is well insulated and surrounded by trees.

I guess my questions are this:

What is this learning curve I keep reading about when going from steel to cast
iron? Any feedback and help is appreciated.

Is Dutchwest (by VC) a good quality stove and does anyone have any experience
with it to share?

I really, really appreciate the help and input.
Regards,
Alisa




[Non-text portions of this message have been removed]

Hi, All –



It’s been quite a while since I posted info about my relocating to a newer,
smaller home in Nova Scotia’s Annapolis Valley area from my long-time home
on the South Shore. You may recall that in the old place, which we built in
1992, I had two un-certified (if that’s the right term) woodstoves which we
had been using, after we had ditched the Vermont Castings, which was
approved but not a very satisfactory woodstove in a number of ways, other
than looking really pretty. :-)



After ditching the VC stove, we installed a “vintage” Jotul 602 in our
living room, and that worked quite satisfactorily as an auxiliary heat
source for our main floor of about 1300 sq. ft. As a result, Jotul as a
brand really went up in my opinion.



When I decided on the move to the Valley, I wanted to make sure I did
everything on the QT, and of course I found out that there actually may have
been probs with the insurability of the Jotul, had the matter ever come up.
So, rather than move the little stove, I decided to start out with a new
model. I also had to get a complete chimney/stovepipe system installed, as
the home had previously been all-electric. I also found that there was a new
program of grants available in Nova Scotia for all-electric homes – they
would reimburse up to 20% of the total cost or a maximum of $900.00 where
one was retrofitting an alternate heating method in a previously
all-electric home.



Because of that, I couldn’t consider another Jotul 602, which doesn’t meet
the minimum emissions requirements. I thought of upgrading to the Nordic,
the next smallest Jotul, but it did seem awfully small, so I finally decided
on the “small/medium” model F3. The store offered me a deal on a “demo,”
which they said had only been lit about 6 times. This stove, according to
the brochure, would take “up to” an 18” log, which sounded good to me, as
the 602 was only rated for 16” logs, and with a bit of maneuvering, I could
usually get 17” pieces in it.



When I called for further info on what size wood I should purchase a couple
weeks ago, Ralph told me that, although the brochure says 18”, “because of
the way the stove loads,” I shouldn’t get anything longer than 16”. I called
the man who was selling me the wood, and I left that message on his
answering machine. A few days later his teenage son showed up at my driveway
with a truckload of wood. I showed him where I wanted it stacked and let him
go to it. So, now I have two cords of softwood (though it should be quite
dry) in my yard.



However, just when I should be feeling quite satisfied at the thought of the
cosy warmth I will be enjoying when the cold North winds are blowing –
possibly accompanied by power outages, it turns out that I seem to have two
problems: 1) I see that, in addition to the “log retainer,” which is the
piece that serves to prevent the logs from rolling out the door, there is a
fixed piece of steel in the upper part of the firebox, which is labeled an
“air deflector” in the manual. This piece cuts down substantially on what
would otherwise be usable space in the firebox – in fact, I am thinking that
the usable space is actually much smaller than it was in my 602. In other
words, I’m going to have a very hard time getting any more than one
good-sized piece of wood in the stove at a time. The store sent the stove
with some paper, kindling and a couple of larger sticks of wood in the
stove. The largest of those pieces measures about 5 inches in diameter at
its widest 15 ½ inches long, and the firebox was essentially full with those
pieces in place, and it does seem that because of the log retainer and air
deflector, as well as the curved design of the door opening, it will be
almost impossible to burn anything larger than 16” – and I think that even
loading pieces of that size will be tricky if not impossible when there is
already a fire going in the stove – unless one lets it burn quite far down.



2) To further complicate matters, when I checked out the size of the wood
that was delivered to me, it looks like many of the pieces are not only
longer than 16” but just bulkier in general than what will fit in the stove.
For example, the piece I brought in to check is about 18 !/2” long.



I did think, too, that there would be at least some hardwood included,
although I knew that the greatest part was softwood.



BTW, I checked the glossy brochure that Jotul distributes, and the pictures
do not illustrate the air deflector. Not sure about the log retainer, though
that is not so much of a problem. At least, I wouldn’t want to get rid of
it. But the stove is not a catalytic stove, and I didn’t think it would be
encumbered by such an unwieldy accoutrement as that air deflector.



What do you all suggest I do in regard to both of my problems? I don’t think
I should have to hire someone else to cut the wood into smaller pieces.
Could I ask the guy who sold it to me to come get the largest pieces and
replace them with pieces that will fit in the stove?  And what about the
stove itself? Do any of you have any experience with the F3 and what is your
opinion if it’s a good, practical stove. My home is only 920 sq. ft., so I
really don’t need a big stove. I know the list doesn’t allow for
attachments, but I could certainly provide pictures if you would like to see
them.



Thanks for any helpful advice you can give!



Johanne



~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~

~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~

                           Johanne L. Tournier

           Email – jltournier@...

~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~

~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~





[Non-text portions of this message have been removed]

Yea, too bad the management of this list does not keep up with
all the yahoo improvements.  Yahoo took care of all problems with
photos over a year ago ... yet they are still prohibited here.
My guess is management doesnt care any more about this list
and have found better things to do than fuss with the forum list.
All it takes is about a minute to turn on photos ability and
designate that attachments be kept at yahoo site automatically
instead of being forwarded with the messages to all members.
Scott

--- In woodheat@yahoogroups.com, "Johanne Tournier" <jltournier@...> wrote:
>
> Hi, All –
>
>
>
> It's been quite a while since I posted info about my relocating to a newer,
> smaller home in Nova Scotia's Annapolis Valley area from my long-time home
> on the South Shore. You may recall that in the old place, which we built in
> 1992, I had two un-certified (if that's the right term) woodstoves which we
> had been using, after we had ditched the Vermont Castings, which was
> approved but not a very satisfactory woodstove in a number of ways, other
> than looking really pretty. :-)
>
>
>
> After ditching the VC stove, we installed a "vintage" Jotul 602 in our
> living room, and that worked quite satisfactorily as an auxiliary heat
> source for our main floor of about 1300 sq. ft. As a result, Jotul as a
> brand really went up in my opinion.
>
>
>
> When I decided on the move to the Valley, I wanted to make sure I did
> everything on the QT, and of course I found out that there actually may have
> been probs with the insurability of the Jotul, had the matter ever come up.
> So, rather than move the little stove, I decided to start out with a new
> model. I also had to get a complete chimney/stovepipe system installed, as
> the home had previously been all-electric. I also found that there was a new
> program of grants available in Nova Scotia for all-electric homes – they
> would reimburse up to 20% of the total cost or a maximum of $900.00 where
> one was retrofitting an alternate heating method in a previously
> all-electric home.
>
>
>
> Because of that, I couldn't consider another Jotul 602, which doesn't meet
> the minimum emissions requirements. I thought of upgrading to the Nordic,
> the next smallest Jotul, but it did seem awfully small, so I finally decided
> on the "small/medium" model F3. The store offered me a deal on a "demo,"
> which they said had only been lit about 6 times. This stove, according to
> the brochure, would take "up to" an 18" log, which sounded good to me, as
> the 602 was only rated for 16" logs, and with a bit of maneuvering, I could
> usually get 17" pieces in it.
>
>
>
> When I called for further info on what size wood I should purchase a couple
> weeks ago, Ralph told me that, although the brochure says 18", "because of
> the way the stove loads," I shouldn't get anything longer than 16". I called
> the man who was selling me the wood, and I left that message on his
> answering machine. A few days later his teenage son showed up at my driveway
> with a truckload of wood. I showed him where I wanted it stacked and let him
> go to it. So, now I have two cords of softwood (though it should be quite
> dry) in my yard.
>
>
>
> However, just when I should be feeling quite satisfied at the thought of the
> cosy warmth I will be enjoying when the cold North winds are blowing –
> possibly accompanied by power outages, it turns out that I seem to have two
> problems: 1) I see that, in addition to the "log retainer," which is the
> piece that serves to prevent the logs from rolling out the door, there is a
> fixed piece of steel in the upper part of the firebox, which is labeled an
> "air deflector" in the manual. This piece cuts down substantially on what
> would otherwise be usable space in the firebox – in fact, I am thinking that
> the usable space is actually much smaller than it was in my 602. In other
> words, I'm going to have a very hard time getting any more than one
> good-sized piece of wood in the stove at a time. The store sent the stove
> with some paper, kindling and a couple of larger sticks of wood in the
> stove. The largest of those pieces measures about 5 inches in diameter at
> its widest 15 ½ inches long, and the firebox was essentially full with those
> pieces in place, and it does seem that because of the log retainer and air
> deflector, as well as the curved design of the door opening, it will be
> almost impossible to burn anything larger than 16" – and I think that even
> loading pieces of that size will be tricky if not impossible when there is
> already a fire going in the stove – unless one lets it burn quite far down.
>
>
>
> 2) To further complicate matters, when I checked out the size of the wood
> that was delivered to me, it looks like many of the pieces are not only
> longer than 16" but just bulkier in general than what will fit in the stove.
> For example, the piece I brought in to check is about 18 !/2" long.
>
>
>
> I did think, too, that there would be at least some hardwood included,
> although I knew that the greatest part was softwood.
>
>
>
> BTW, I checked the glossy brochure that Jotul distributes, and the pictures
> do not illustrate the air deflector. Not sure about the log retainer, though
> that is not so much of a problem. At least, I wouldn't want to get rid of
> it. But the stove is not a catalytic stove, and I didn't think it would be
> encumbered by such an unwieldy accoutrement as that air deflector.
>
>
>
> What do you all suggest I do in regard to both of my problems? I don't think
> I should have to hire someone else to cut the wood into smaller pieces.
> Could I ask the guy who sold it to me to come get the largest pieces and
> replace them with pieces that will fit in the stove?  And what about the
> stove itself? Do any of you have any experience with the F3 and what is your
> opinion if it's a good, practical stove. My home is only 920 sq. ft., so I
> really don't need a big stove. I know the list doesn't allow for
> attachments, but I could certainly provide pictures if you would like to see
> them.
>
>
>
> Thanks for any helpful advice you can give!
>
>
>
> Johanne
>
>
>
> ~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~
>
> ~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~
>
>                           Johanne L. Tournier
>
>           Email – jltournier@...
>
> ~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~
>
> ~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~
>
>
>
>
>
> [Non-text portions of this message have been removed]
>

Scott's will has been done!
Photo attachments rules have been modified to make photos available to
those who wish them.

We had reasons for making the settings such as they were, but as Scott's
email states changes have been made so as not to attach photos to members
who don't want them - some of whom are on dial up.

I hope this helps.

Cal Wallis



  Yea, too bad the management of this list does not keep up with
> all the yahoo improvements.  Yahoo took care of all problems with
> photos over a year ago ... yet they are still prohibited here.
> My guess is management doesnt care any more about this list
> and have found better things to do than fuss with the forum list.
> All it takes is about a minute to turn on photos ability and
> designate that attachments be kept at yahoo site automatically
> instead of being forwarded with the messages to all members.
> Scott
>
> --- In woodheat@yahoogroups.com, "Johanne Tournier" <jltournier@...>
> wrote:
>>
>> Hi, All –
>>
>>
>>
>> It's been quite a while since I posted info about my relocating to a
>> newer,
>> smaller home in Nova Scotia's Annapolis Valley area from my long-time
>> home
>> on the South Shore. You may recall that in the old place, which we built
>> in
>> 1992, I had two un-certified (if that's the right term) woodstoves which
>> we
>> had been using, after we had ditched the Vermont Castings, which was
>> approved but not a very satisfactory woodstove in a number of ways,
>> other
>> than looking really pretty. :-)
>>
>>
>>
>> After ditching the VC stove, we installed a "vintage" Jotul 602 in our
>> living room, and that worked quite satisfactorily as an auxiliary heat
>> source for our main floor of about 1300 sq. ft. As a result, Jotul as a
>> brand really went up in my opinion.
>>
>>
>>
>> When I decided on the move to the Valley, I wanted to make sure I did
>> everything on the QT, and of course I found out that there actually may
>> have
>> been probs with the insurability of the Jotul, had the matter ever come
>> up.
>> So, rather than move the little stove, I decided to start out with a new
>> model. I also had to get a complete chimney/stovepipe system installed,
>> as
>> the home had previously been all-electric. I also found that there was a
>> new
>> program of grants available in Nova Scotia for all-electric homes – they
>> would reimburse up to 20% of the total cost or a maximum of $900.00
>> where
>> one was retrofitting an alternate heating method in a previously
>> all-electric home.
>>
>>
>>
>> Because of that, I couldn't consider another Jotul 602, which doesn't
>> meet
>> the minimum emissions requirements. I thought of upgrading to the
>> Nordic,
>> the next smallest Jotul, but it did seem awfully small, so I finally
>> decided
>> on the "small/medium" model F3. The store offered me a deal on a "demo,"
>> which they said had only been lit about 6 times. This stove, according
>> to
>> the brochure, would take "up to" an 18" log, which sounded good to me,
>> as
>> the 602 was only rated for 16" logs, and with a bit of maneuvering, I
>> could
>> usually get 17" pieces in it.
>>
>>
>>
>> When I called for further info on what size wood I should purchase a
>> couple
>> weeks ago, Ralph told me that, although the brochure says 18", "because
>> of
>> the way the stove loads," I shouldn't get anything longer than 16". I
>> called
>> the man who was selling me the wood, and I left that message on his
>> answering machine. A few days later his teenage son showed up at my
>> driveway
>> with a truckload of wood. I showed him where I wanted it stacked and let
>> him
>> go to it. So, now I have two cords of softwood (though it should be
>> quite
>> dry) in my yard.
>>
>>
>>
>> However, just when I should be feeling quite satisfied at the thought of
>> the
>> cosy warmth I will be enjoying when the cold North winds are blowing –
>> possibly accompanied by power outages, it turns out that I seem to have
>> two
>> problems: 1) I see that, in addition to the "log retainer," which is the
>> piece that serves to prevent the logs from rolling out the door, there
>> is a
>> fixed piece of steel in the upper part of the firebox, which is labeled
>> an
>> "air deflector" in the manual. This piece cuts down substantially on
>> what
>> would otherwise be usable space in the firebox – in fact, I am thinking
>> that
>> the usable space is actually much smaller than it was in my 602. In
>> other
>> words, I'm going to have a very hard time getting any more than one
>> good-sized piece of wood in the stove at a time. The store sent the
>> stove
>> with some paper, kindling and a couple of larger sticks of wood in the
>> stove. The largest of those pieces measures about 5 inches in diameter
>> at
>> its widest 15 ½ inches long, and the firebox was essentially full with
>> those
>> pieces in place, and it does seem that because of the log retainer and
>> air
>> deflector, as well as the curved design of the door opening, it will be
>> almost impossible to burn anything larger than 16" – and I think that
>> even
>> loading pieces of that size will be tricky if not impossible when there
>> is
>> already a fire going in the stove – unless one lets it burn quite far
>> down.
>>
>>
>>
>> 2) To further complicate matters, when I checked out the size of the
>> wood
>> that was delivered to me, it looks like many of the pieces are not only
>> longer than 16" but just bulkier in general than what will fit in the
>> stove.
>> For example, the piece I brought in to check is about 18 !/2" long.
>>
>>
>>
>> I did think, too, that there would be at least some hardwood included,
>> although I knew that the greatest part was softwood.
>>
>>
>>
>> BTW, I checked the glossy brochure that Jotul distributes, and the
>> pictures
>> do not illustrate the air deflector. Not sure about the log retainer,
>> though
>> that is not so much of a problem. At least, I wouldn't want to get rid
>> of
>> it. But the stove is not a catalytic stove, and I didn't think it would
>> be
>> encumbered by such an unwieldy accoutrement as that air deflector.
>>
>>
>>
>> What do you all suggest I do in regard to both of my problems? I don't
>> think
>> I should have to hire someone else to cut the wood into smaller pieces.
>> Could I ask the guy who sold it to me to come get the largest pieces and
>> replace them with pieces that will fit in the stove?  And what about the
>> stove itself? Do any of you have any experience with the F3 and what is
>> your
>> opinion if it's a good, practical stove. My home is only 920 sq. ft., so
>> I
>> really don't need a big stove. I know the list doesn't allow for
>> attachments, but I could certainly provide pictures if you would like to
>> see
>> them.
>>
>>
>>
>> Thanks for any helpful advice you can give!
>>
>>
>>
>> Johanne
>>
>>
>>
>> ~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~
>>
>> ~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~
>>
>>                           Johanne L. Tournier
>>
>>           Email – jltournier@...
>>
>> ~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~
>>
>> ~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~
>>
>>
>>
>>
>>
>> [Non-text portions of this message have been removed]
>>
>
>
>

Has anyone had experience with the electric chainsaw from Harbor Freight?

Thanks,

Ken