Hi
   Would like some info on BTU's on Wheat and oats
   Corn seems to be 7000 BTU/#lb
   I've had some sales people tell me it's 9000 BTU/#lb
   I have my doults about 9000

   Also how many cubic feet of air does it take to burn a
   pound of Corn?

geeeber

http://www.webconx.com/2000/biofuel/biofuel.htm

Lignocellulosic materials such as agricultural, hardwood and softwood
residues are potential sources of sugars for ethanol production. The
cellulose and hemi-cellulose components of these materials are
essentially
long, molecular chains of sugars. They are protected by lignin, which
is the
glue that holds all of this material together.

--
Steve Spence
Subscribe to the Renewable Energy Newsletter:
http://www.webconx.com/subscribe.htm

Renewable Energy Pages - http://www.webconx.com
Palm Pilot Pages - http://www.webconx.com/palm
X10 Home Automation - http://www.webconx.com/x10
sspence@...
(212) 894-3704 x3154 - voicemail/fax
We do not inherit the earth from our ancestors,
we borrow it from our children.
--

A question for the experts

We have a woodstove which is installed as a fireplace insert, sitting
on the hearth and interconnected to the chimney with a manufacturer
supplied "installation kit". The "installation kit" consists of a
short length of stovepipe, a cleanout, and a 10 X 4 flexible conduit
which runs up througn the damper and butts against the terracotta flue
  liner. The "installation kit" has degenerated to a pile of rust, and
requires replacement. Ventinox sells a stainless replacement, which we
can do, but now might be a good time to line the chimney.

Question:

How best to line the chimney AND interface to the flue collar of the
woodstove, which, again, is installed on the hearth of the fireplace
(minus legs)?

Thanks,

Bill M

Bill
You mention the existance of a terracotta flue liner.
If it is in good condition then you already have a lined
chimney. Do you feel the chimney has to be re-lined
due to damage or deterioration?
Miro

-----Original Message-----
From: q10191@... <q10191@...>
To: woodheat@yahoogroups.com <woodheat@yahoogroups.com>
Date: Tuesday, July 17, 2001 12:43 AM
Subject: [woodheat] (unknown)


>A question for the experts
>
>We have a woodstove which is installed as a fireplace insert, sitting
>on the hearth and interconnected to the chimney with a manufacturer
>supplied "installation kit". The "installation kit" consists of a
>short length of stovepipe, a cleanout, and a 10 X 4 flexible conduit
>which runs up througn the damper and butts against the terracotta flue
> liner. The "installation kit" has degenerated to a pile of rust, and
>requires replacement. Ventinox sells a stainless replacement, which we
>can do, but now might be a good time to line the chimney.
>
>Question:
>
>How best to line the chimney AND interface to the flue collar of the
>woodstove, which, again, is installed on the hearth of the fireplace
>(minus legs)?
>
>Thanks,
>
>Bill M
>
>
>Check THE woodheat web site at  www.woodheat.org
>
>
>Your use of Yahoo! Groups is subject to http://docs.yahoo.com/info/terms/
>
>

There are cracks in the liner, but no missing chunks. I just thought
that the draft would be better with a liner that was smaller in
diameter and insulated with an air gap. The chimney is the typical
brick design, outside the house, and has some draft problems.

Thanks, Bill M


--- In woodheat@y..., "Miro Zieba" <mirozieba@i...> wrote:
> Bill
> You mention the existance of a terracotta flue liner.
> If it is in good condition then you already have a lined
> chimney. Do you feel the chimney has to be re-lined
> due to damage or deterioration?
> Miro
>
> -----Original Message-----
> From: q10191@e... <q10191@e...>
> To: woodheat@y... <woodheat@y...>
> Date: Tuesday, July 17, 2001 12:43 AM
> Subject: [woodheat] (unknown)
>
>
> >A question for the experts
> >
> >We have a woodstove which is installed as a fireplace insert,
sitting
> >on the hearth and interconnected to the chimney with a manufacturer
> >supplied "installation kit". The "installation kit" consists of a
> >short length of stovepipe, a cleanout, and a 10 X 4 flexible
conduit
> >which runs up througn the damper and butts against the terracotta
flue
> > liner. The "installation kit" has degenerated to a pile of rust,
and
> >requires replacement. Ventinox sells a stainless replacement, which
we
> >can do, but now might be a good time to line the chimney.
> >
> >Question:
> >
> >How best to line the chimney AND interface to the flue collar of
the
> >woodstove, which, again, is installed on the hearth of the
fireplace
> >(minus legs)?
> >
> >Thanks,
> >
> >Bill M
> >
> >
> >Check THE woodheat web site at  www.woodheat.org
> >
> >
> >Your use of Yahoo! Groups is subject to
http://docs.yahoo.com/info/terms/
> >
> >

----- Original Message -----

From: q10191@...

To: woodheat@yahoogroups.com

Sent: Tuesday, July 17, 2001 10:58 PM

Subject: [woodheat] Re: woodstove installation as fireplace insert.

"There are cracks in the liner..."

Bill
To go along with Ed Williams' comments.
You have some options. I have relined situations
like yours several ways. One using Isokern relining
tiles (103ht cert) if there is room in the chimney.
Another using SS flue pipe as Ed mentions but filling around it with
a mix of Isokern mortar and Isokern Leca which is pea
size vulcanic pumice. Same idea as using the Thermix
but you create a liner like SupaFlue when your done.
You can check their web site for a dealer in your area.
www.isokern.net
How ever you decide to do it, your initial thought is right.
NOW is the time.
Miro

-----Original Message-----
From: q10191@... <q10191@...>
To: woodheat@yahoogroups.com <woodheat@yahoogroups.com>
Date: Wednesday, July 18, 2001 1:58 AM
Subject: [woodheat] Re: woodstove installation as fireplace insert.


>There are cracks in the liner, but no missing chunks. I just thought
>that the draft would be better with a liner that was smaller in
>diameter and insulated with an air gap. The chimney is the typical
>brick design, outside the house, and has some draft problems.
>
>Thanks, Bill M
>
>
>--- In woodheat@y..., "Miro Zieba" <mirozieba@i...> wrote:
>> Bill
>> You mention the existance of a terracotta flue liner.
>> If it is in good condition then you already have a lined
>> chimney. Do you feel the chimney has to be re-lined
>> due to damage or deterioration?
>> Miro
>>
>> -----Original Message-----
>> From: q10191@e... <q10191@e...>
>> To: woodheat@y... <woodheat@y...>
>> Date: Tuesday, July 17, 2001 12:43 AM
>> Subject: [woodheat] (unknown)
>>
>>
>> >A question for the experts
>> >
>> >We have a woodstove which is installed as a fireplace insert,
>sitting
>> >on the hearth and interconnected to the chimney with a manufacturer
>> >supplied "installation kit". The "installation kit" consists of a
>> >short length of stovepipe, a cleanout, and a 10 X 4 flexible
>conduit
>> >which runs up througn the damper and butts against the terracotta
>flue
>> > liner. The "installation kit" has degenerated to a pile of rust,
>and
>> >requires replacement. Ventinox sells a stainless replacement, which
>we
>> >can do, but now might be a good time to line the chimney.
>> >
>> >Question:
>> >
>> >How best to line the chimney AND interface to the flue collar of
>the
>> >woodstove, which, again, is installed on the hearth of the
>fireplace
>> >(minus legs)?
>> >
>> >Thanks,
>> >
>> >Bill M
>> >
>> >
>> >Check THE woodheat web site at  www.woodheat.org
>> >
>> >
>> >Your use of Yahoo! Groups is subject to
>http://docs.yahoo.com/info/terms/
>> >
>> >
>
>
>Check THE woodheat web site at  www.woodheat.org
>
>
>Your use of Yahoo! Groups is subject to http://docs.yahoo.com/info/terms/
>
>

Thanks for the reply

Forgive me, but just to make sure I understand -

The liner should run nonstop from the top of the chimney to the
"bucket", and not stop at the end of the existing terracotta flue
liner..correct?

Will review installation instructions for stove wrt clearances also..
still have the manual.

Thanks,

Bill M

--- In woodheat@y..., Harpersx4@a... wrote:
> In a message dated 7/19/2001 8:52:38 AM Eastern Daylight Time,
> woodheat@y... writes:
>
>
> > >> >We have a woodstove which is installed as a fireplace insert,
> > >sitting
> > >> >on the hearth and interconnected to the chimney with a
manufacturer
> > >> >supplied "installation kit". The "installation kit" consists
of a
> > >> >short length of stovepipe, a cleanout, and a 10 X 4 flexible
> > >conduit
> > >> >which runs up througn the damper and butts against the
terracotta
> > >flue
> > >> > liner. The "installation kit" has degenerated to a pile of
rust,
> > >and
> > >> >requires replacement.
>
> You should install a full length Listed liner. Any Listed liner will
require
> a specific insulation system. While you're at it, review your mfrs.
specs.
> for clearances to the mantel and floor protection as these are often
> overlooked with hearth stoves & inserts. If the stove is unlisted,
refer to
> NFPA 211. As was noted, the full liner will be sized for the
appliance
> thereby improving performance and the insulation improves draft
while
> decreasing condensation and providing a degree of protection in the
event of
> a chimney fire. UL 1777 is for a 2,100F chimney fire condition .
>
> Cleaning is a snap as the liner can be brushed out from above and
the
> creosote removed from a tee( hearth stove) or a bucket( insert) .
While I
> advocate annual servicing by a Certified Chimney Sweep, the
homeowner can and
> should brush it out as needed. This gives valuable feedback as to
the way he
> is burning. You'll find the full liner makes the stove much easier
to operate
> and is more spill resistant when the loading door is open for
refueling.
>
> HTH,
> Bob Harper
> CSIA Cert 2924
> Member Natl. Chimney Sweep Guild Tech. Advisory Cmte.

I have read the posts about how outside air is sort of a myth as far
as being a cure for leakage of smoke.  My question is this:
"In a rough cabin with no cieling fans or exhaust fans to affect
inside pressure, is the use of outside air direct to combustion in the
stove effective in keeping you warmer?"  I am talking about COLD
weather.. 20-40 below weather.

We have friends in Mongolia who live in very simple wood cabins in the
winter.  They use shepard type thin walled stoves.  I am wondering if
adapting a manifold for outside air would keep them warmer.  It seems
to me that burning the cold air instead of the warmed air would be a
plus and the fact that the room was warmer (positive pressure) than
the outside might slow down the rate at which cold air is pulled in
around doors, cracks in the walls, etc.
I appreaciate any comments.
Kent Madin

Kent Madin wrote:
> My question is this:
> "In a rough cabin with no cieling fans or exhaust fans to affect
> inside pressure, is the use of outside air direct to combustion in the
> stove effective in keeping you warmer?"

No.  As the first law of thermodyamics points out, there ain't no free lunch in
energy terms.  There is no heating advantage in bringing outdoor air directly to
the combustion chamber because:
1/ A controlled combustion heater uses a TINY amount of combustion air -- less,
on average, than a cheap bathroom fan.
2/ The cold air entering the combustion chamber negatively affects the quality
of combustion -- this has been demonstrated.
3/ The combustion air must be heated to combustion temperatures before it can be
used and this takes heat from the fire which it cannot in turn, supply to the
room.

The best place to take combustion air is from the room in which the stove is
located.

Regards,
John Gulland
The Wood Heat Organization Inc.
http://www.woodheat.org
A non-commercial service in support of responsible home heating with wood

>    Date: Sun, 26 Aug 2001 16:41:50 -0400
>    From: <drjanisbell@...>
> Subject: a woodstove in the basement
>
> What do you knowledgeable people think of putting a wood stove in the
> basement of a ranch house hooked up an unused chimney and flue (built
> by the original owners for a cookstove), connecting it to a hot water
> coil, and heating the water in a storage tank as a preheat for our
> regular electric DHW.
>
> Janis Bell

Hi Janis,
If all you want to heat is the basement, then that is the right location for the
stove. However, we always recommend that wood stoves be located in the room or
area where the family spends most of its time. These are 'space' heaters after
all and not central heating systems. Many people have made the mistake of
locating the stove in the basement, expecting the heat to rise and warm the main
floor. This rarely works as well as they would like. We've been asked this
question before. Here is an example and our response:
===========
Q.
I have a ranch home with a woodburner in the basement. I am having trouble
getting the heat from my basemet to the upstairs. the door to the basement is
wide open. the uptsairs is stays around 65 and the basement is about 90.   Can
you offer me any suggestions on how I can even out this heat?  I put in one
register but not much changed.  Hot air didn't go up, cold air came down.  My
ceilings in the basement are finished with drywall.  Anything you could offer
would be appreciated.
=========
A.
Wood stoves are space heaters and as such should be located in the space you
want to heat. We strongly discourage the idea of putting a wood stove in a
basement, when the space to be heated is upstairs. The problems you experience
are identical to those experienced by almost everyone who tries this.  Whatever
you do, don't try pumping air from the basement to upstairs.  This can
depressurize the basement and cause backdrafting of the stove. If anything you
should pump air from upstairs to the basement and force air upstairs that way.
Ideally, you should move the stove to where you want the heat because you will
never satisfactorily resolve the too hot basement, too cold upstairs problem.
=============

Heating domestic hot water with a wood stove is a fine idea, but tends to be
more complex than it first appears. I know, I started heating my own water with
a wood stove last winter. It worked, but not perfectly, and cost a fair amount
of money.

Regards,
John Gulland
The Wood Heat Organization Inc.
http://www.woodheat.org
A non-commercial service in support of responsible home heating with wood

Hi!

If you have never had a wood stove before I might have
a few observations.
Using a stove in the basement provides very
comfortable and efficient heating since the heat rises
through the floors and heats the main floor very
evenly.
The problem with the stove in the basement can be
getting the fuel to the stove.  Be shure that you have
thought about the process of bringing in wood and the
mess that this operation makes.
Have the stove installed by a pro who can provide a
judgment on your existing chimney from a safety and
suitability stand point.  The piece of mind that all
is safe is well worth the price.
As far as using the stove as a preheater for your DHW
Jademountain.com has some products available.  I have
no operational experience with this but it sounds like
a great auxiliary feature.

Hope this has helped
Lemme know if I need to elaborate any more
Allen
--- drjanisbell@... wrote:
> What do you knowledgeable people think of putting a
> wood stove in the basement of a ranch house hooked
> up an unused chimney and flue (built by the original
> owners for a cookstove), connecting it to a hot
> water coil, and heating the water in a storage tank
> as a preheat for our regular electric DHW.
>
> Janis Bell
> Gambier, OH 43022
>
>
>


=====
Music is the Source

__________________________________________________
Do You Yahoo!?
Make international calls for as low as $.04/minute with Yahoo! Messenger
http://phonecard.yahoo.com/

Miro wrote:
There are options in the direction you actually suggestion
with your question. But instead of trying to experiment or
jury rig a coil to a woodstove I suggest you look at manufatured
equipment that has already been tested and proven. The
bottom line question is will it be a cost effective solution.

And yesterday John wrote
Heating domestic hot water with a wood stove is a fine idea, but tends to be
more complex than it first appears. I know, I started heating my own water
with
a wood stove last winter. It worked, but not perfectly, and cost a fair
amount
of money.

Could you elaborate on the costs and problems of heating DHW with wood?
What we've read on the web makes it sound soooo easy.

We have a large Jodul box stove available (free from our neighbor), lots of
wood on our property -- had to take down 50 trees this summer, mostly
hardwood) -- and our main heating system is electric heat pumps and electric
hot water heater.  We want to preheat the water with wood for 2 reasons:
[1] slow recovery with electric and [2] ability to have abundant HW for what
we think will be a low cost.  The stove burning in the basement would make
our floors warm and take some of the pressure off the electric heat pumps in
the very cold weather when they are less efficient.   Jodul doesn't make a
DHW coil. Have looked at jade's site but don't yet know whether products
from other manufacturers will work here nor why people say it is costly.
We'd need to heat about 4 gpm to make it worthwhile in terms of recovery.

nb: we have temporarily ruled out buying a TARM boiler or another fuel
system since everything prices out at close to $10000 -- which would take us
8-10 years to recover our investment.

Janis Bell
20090 New Gambier Rd.
Gambier, OH 43022
740-427-2650

----- Original Message -----
From: <woodheat@yahoogroups.com>
To: <woodheat@yahoogroups.com>
Sent: Wednesday, August 29, 2001 10:05 AM
Subject: [woodheat] Digest Number 149


>
> Check THE woodheat web site at  www.woodheat.org
>
> ------------------------------------------------------------------------
>
> There are 2 messages in this issue.
>
> Topics in this digest:
>
>       1. Re: a woodstove in the basement
>            From: Allen Huff <catgenman@...>
>       2. RE: Digest Number 147
>            From: "Miro Zieba" <mirozieba@...>
>
>
> ________________________________________________________________________
> ________________________________________________________________________
>
> Message: 1
>    Date: Tue, 28 Aug 2001 15:38:17 -0700 (PDT)
>    From: Allen Huff <catgenman@...>
> Subject: Re: a woodstove in the basement
>
> Hi!
>
> If you have never had a wood stove before I might have
> a few observations.
> Using a stove in the basement provides very
> comfortable and efficient heating since the heat rises
> through the floors and heats the main floor very
> evenly.
> The problem with the stove in the basement can be
> getting the fuel to the stove.  Be shure that you have
> thought about the process of bringing in wood and the
> mess that this operation makes.
> Have the stove installed by a pro who can provide a
> judgment on your existing chimney from a safety and
> suitability stand point.  The piece of mind that all
> is safe is well worth the price.
> As far as using the stove as a preheater for your DHW
> Jademountain.com has some products available.  I have
> no operational experience with this but it sounds like
> a great auxiliary feature.
>
> Hope this has helped
> Lemme know if I need to elaborate any more
> Allen
> --- drjanisbell@... wrote:
> > What do you knowledgeable people think of putting a
> > wood stove in the basement of a ranch house hooked
> > up an unused chimney and flue (built by the original
> > owners for a cookstove), connecting it to a hot
> > water coil, and heating the water in a storage tank
> > as a preheat for our regular electric DHW.
> >
> > Janis Bell
> > Gambier, OH 43022
> >
> >
> >
>
>
> =====
> Music is the Source
>
> __________________________________________________
> Do You Yahoo!?
> Make international calls for as low as $.04/minute with Yahoo! Messenger
> http://phonecard.yahoo.com/
>
>
> ________________________________________________________________________
> ________________________________________________________________________
>
> Message: 2
>    Date: Sun, 22 Jul 2001 13:19:39 -0400
>    From: "Miro Zieba" <mirozieba@...>
> Subject: RE: Digest Number 147
>
> Janis
>
> There are options in the direction you actually suggestion
> with your question. But instead of trying to experiment or
> jury rig a coil to a woodstove I suggest you look at manufatured
> equipment that has already been tested and proven. The
> bottom line question is will it be a cost effective solution.
> I have an oil fired hot water furnace as my primary source.
> It supplies heating and hot water needs. I have a wood fired
> hot water furnace connected/plumbed in parallel with it.
> I can shut off the oil furnace and have the wood furnace
> supply my hot water. There may be a unit available to
> address your specific needs as posed in your question.
> My unit FYI is HS Tarm. They probably have a web site as
> do other manufacturers. I get my wood off my property, It
> only costs me in sweat. So be sure to calculate ALL your
> costs before you count your savings.
> Miro
> Betterway Chimney Systems
>
> -----Original Message-----
> From: John Gulland <john@...>
> To: woodheat@yahoogroups.com <woodheat@yahoogroups.com>
> Date: Monday, August 27, 2001 2:04 PM
> Subject: RE: [woodheat] Digest Number 147
>
>
> >>    Date: Sun, 26 Aug 2001 16:41:50 -0400
> >>    From: <drjanisbell@...>
> >> Subject: a woodstove in the basement
> >>
> >> What do you knowledgeable people think of putting a wood stove in the
> >> basement of a ranch house hooked up an unused chimney and flue (built
> >> by the original owners for a cookstove), connecting it to a hot water
> >> coil, and heating the water in a storage tank as a preheat for our
> >> regular electric DHW.
> >>
> >> Janis Bell
> >
> >Hi Janis,
> >If all you want to heat is the basement, then that is the right location
> for the
> >stove. However, we always recommend that wood stoves be located in the
room
> or
> >area where the family spends most of its time. These are 'space' heaters
> after
> >all and not central heating systems. Many people have made the mistake of
> >locating the stove in the basement, expecting the heat to rise and warm
the
> main
> >floor. This rarely works as well as they would like. We've been asked
this
> >question before. Here is an example and our response:
> >===========
> >Q.
> >I have a ranch home with a woodburner in the basement. I am having
trouble
> >getting the heat from my basemet to the upstairs. the door to the
basement
> is
> >wide open. the uptsairs is stays around 65 and the basement is about 90.
> Can
> >you offer me any suggestions on how I can even out this heat?  I put in
one
> >register but not much changed.  Hot air didn't go up, cold air came down.
> My
> >ceilings in the basement are finished with drywall.  Anything you could
> offer
> >would be appreciated.
> >=========
> >A.
> >Wood stoves are space heaters and as such should be located in the space
> you
> >want to heat. We strongly discourage the idea of putting a wood stove in
a
> >basement, when the space to be heated is upstairs. The problems you
> experience
> >are identical to those experienced by almost everyone who tries this.
> Whatever
> >you do, don't try pumping air from the basement to upstairs.  This can
> >depressurize the basement and cause backdrafting of the stove. If
anything
> you
> >should pump air from upstairs to the basement and force air upstairs that
> way.
> >Ideally, you should move the stove to where you want the heat because you
> will
> >never satisfactorily resolve the too hot basement, too cold upstairs
> problem.
> >=============
> >
> >Heating domestic hot water with a wood stove is a fine idea, but tends to
> be
> >more complex than it first appears. I know, I started heating my own
water
> with
> >a wood stove last winter. It worked, but not perfectly, and cost a fair
> amount
> >of money.
> >
> >Regards,
> >John Gulland
> >The Wood Heat Organization Inc.
> >http://www.woodheat.org
> >A non-commercial service in support of responsible home heating with wood
> >
> >
> >
> >Check THE woodheat web site at  www.woodheat.org
> >
> >
> >Your use of Yahoo! Groups is subject to http://docs.yahoo.com/info/terms/
> >
> >
>
>
>
> [This message contained attachments]
>
>
>
> ________________________________________________________________________
> ________________________________________________________________________
>
>
>
> Your use of Yahoo! Groups is subject to http://docs.yahoo.com/info/terms/
>
>

Hi all!

I am searching to purchase a Fisher wood stove,I believe, but can not
find where they are sold, or if there is a web-site regarding heat
out put, burning time and possibly price ranges. I live in Northern
CA and I hope that one of you can help me?

Thank you!

Sheila

>Sheila,

Fisher is an older name in a business where things have changed a lot
for the better..if you follow. You'd do a LOT better with an EPA
certified stove (like one built in the last 15 years). Use 2/3 of the
wood (or less) and reduce chimney cleaning virtually to a memory.

Cal

>Hi all!
>
>I am searching to purchase a Fisher wood stove,I believe, but can not
>find where they are sold, or if there is a web-site regarding heat
>out put, burning time and possibly price ranges. I live in Northern
>CA and I hope that one of you can help me?
>
>Thank you!
>
>Sheila

From: Cal Wallis

To: woodheat@yahoogroups.com

Sent: Sunday, September 02, 2001 8:12 AM

Subject: Re: [woodheat] Fisher wood stoves

>Sheila,

Fisher is an older name in a business where things have changed a lot
for the better..if you follow. You'd do a LOT better with an EPA
certified stove (like one built in the last 15 years). Use 2/3 of the
wood (or less) and reduce chimney cleaning virtually to a memory.

Cal

>Hi all!
>
>I am searching to purchase a Fisher wood stove,I believe, but can not
>find where they are sold, or if there is a web-site regarding heat
>out put, burning time and possibly price ranges. I live in Northern
>CA and I hope that one of you can help me?
>
>Thank you!
>
>Sheila



Check THE woodheat web site at  www.woodheat.org


Your use of Yahoo! Groups is subject to the Yahoo! Terms of Service.

>OK

Fisher is no longer made. It's an old name and is now gone.
Better to chose an EPA certified stoves than some stove from the 70s
(like Fisher, Ashley, Timberline, etc) that you've heard of.

Cal

>Thanks, but I am looking for a brand new one, so I do not understand
>your response.
>
>Sheila
>
>----- Original Message -----
>
>From: <mailto:wood@...>Cal Wallis
>To: <mailto:woodheat@yahoogroups.com>woodheat@yahoogroups.com
>Sent: Sunday, September 02, 2001 8:12 AM
>Subject: Re: [woodheat] Fisher wood stoves
>
> >Sheila,
>
>Fisher is an older name in a business where things have changed a lot
>for the better..if you follow. You'd do a LOT better with an EPA
>certified stove (like one built in the last 15 years). Use 2/3 of the
>wood (or less) and reduce chimney cleaning virtually to a memory.
>
>Cal
>
> >Hi all!
> >
> >I am searching to purchase a Fisher wood stove,I believe, but can not
> >find where they are sold, or if there is a web-site regarding heat
> >out put, burning time and possibly price ranges. I live in Northern
> >CA and I hope that one of you can help me?
> >
> >Thank you!
> >
> >Sheila
>
>
>
>Check THE woodheat web site at  www.woodheat.org
>
>
>Your use of Yahoo! Groups is subject to the
><http://docs.yahoo.com/info/terms/>Yahoo! Terms of Service.
>
>
>Yahoo! Groups Sponsor ADVERTISEMENT
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>
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----- Original Message -----

From: Cal Wallis

To: woodheat@yahoogroups.com

Sent: Sunday, September 02, 2001 10:36 AM

Subject: Re: [woodheat] Fisher wood stoves

OK

Fisher is no longer made. It's an old name and is now gone.
Better to chose an EPA certified stoves than some stove from the 70s (like Fisher, Ashley, Timberline, etc) that you've heard of.

Cal

Thanks, but I am looking for a brand new one, so I do not understand your response.

Sheila

----- Original Message -----

From: <mailto:wood@...>Cal Wallis
To: <mailto:woodheat@yahoogroups.com>woodheat@yahoogroups.com
Sent: Sunday, September 02, 2001 8:12 AM
Subject: Re: [woodheat] Fisher wood stoves

>Sheila,

Fisher is an older name in a business where things have changed a lot
for the better..if you follow. You'd do a LOT better with an EPA
certified stove (like one built in the last 15 years). Use 2/3 of the
wood (or less) and reduce chimney cleaning virtually to a memory.

Cal

>Hi all!
>
>I am searching to purchase a Fisher wood stove,I believe, but can not
>find where they are sold, or if there is a web-site regarding heat
>out put, burning time and possibly price ranges. I live in Northern
>CA and I hope that one of you can help me?
>
>Thank you!
>
>Sheila



Check THE woodheat web site at www.woodheat.org


Your use of Yahoo! Groups is subject to the <http://docs.yahoo.com/info/terms/>Yahoo! Terms of Service.


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Hello sorry to hear you are having so much trouble finding what you
want.I am currently looking for a Fisher insert my aunt has 2 in her
house but bought them some 20 years ago.She is very happy with there
performance.I looked on the net last week and the only site listed
carrying them that I could find is in New Zealand!Oh well you may
want to look up a company called I think- Juca super fireplace the
info on their site is worth reading.I may settle for a typical insert
good luck and if you find a fisher in the states or a phone # e mail
me take care--- In woodheat@y..., "sheila" <sheila@h...> wrote:
> I know that Fisher's are still being made and sold, new, so thank
you for your help.
>
> Sheila
>   ----- Original Message -----
>   From: Cal Wallis
>   To: woodheat@y...
>   Sent: Sunday, September 02, 2001 10:36 AM
>   Subject: Re: [woodheat] Fisher wood stoves
>
>
>     OK
>
>
>   Fisher is no longer made. It's an old name and is now gone.
>   Better to chose an EPA certified stoves than some stove from the
70s (like Fisher, Ashley, Timberline, etc) that you've heard of.
>
>   Cal
>
>
>     Thanks, but I am looking for a brand new one, so I do not
understand your response.
>
>     Sheila
>
>
>     ----- Original Message -----
>
>     From: <mailto:wood@s...>Cal Wallis
>     To: <mailto:woodheat@y...>woodheat@y...
>     Sent: Sunday, September 02, 2001 8:12 AM
>     Subject: Re: [woodheat] Fisher wood stoves
>
>     >Sheila,
>
>     Fisher is an older name in a business where things have changed
a lot
>     for the better..if you follow. You'd do a LOT better with an EPA
>     certified stove (like one built in the last 15 years). Use 2/3
of the
>     wood (or less) and reduce chimney cleaning virtually to a
memory.
>
>     Cal
>
>     >Hi all!
>     >
>     >I am searching to purchase a Fisher wood stove,I believe, but
can not
>     >find where they are sold, or if there is a web-site regarding
heat
>     >out put, burning time and possibly price ranges. I live in
Northern
>     >CA and I hope that one of you can help me?
>     >
>     >Thank you!
>     >
>     >Sheila
>
>
>
>     Check THE woodheat web site at www.woodheat.org
>
>
>     Your use of Yahoo! Groups is subject to the
<http://docs.yahoo.com/info/terms/>Yahoo! Terms of Service.
>
>
>     Yahoo! Groups Sponsor ADVERTISEMENT
>
<http://rd.yahoo.com/M=210544.1579876.3135161.1261774/D=egroupweb/S=17
05064226:HM/A=776675/R=0/*http://ads.track-star.com/adspace.ts?
ts=1;2;217;107_220_105_264>
>     Check THE woodheat web site at www.woodheat.org
>
>
>     Your use of Yahoo! Groups is subject to the
<http://docs.yahoo.com/info/terms/>Yahoo! Terms of Service.

Has anyone ever heard of an Aurora fireplace insert?If so please let
me know where I can obtain some info.Thanks a lot

----- Original Message -----

From: tanovio1@...

To: woodheat@yahoogroups.com

Sent: Sunday, September 02, 2001 9:12 PM

Subject: [woodheat] Re: Fisher wood stoves

Hello sorry to hear you are having so much trouble finding what you
want.I am currently looking for a Fisher insert my aunt has 2 in her
house but bought them some 20 years ago.She is very happy with there
performance.I looked on the net last week and the only site listed
carrying them that I could find is in New Zealand!Oh well you may
want to look up a company called I think- Juca super fireplace the
info on their site is worth reading.I may settle for a typical insert
good luck and if you find a fisher in the states or a phone # e mail
me take care--- In woodheat@y..., "sheila" <sheila@h...> wrote:
> I know that Fisher's are still being made and sold, new, so thank
you for your help.
>
> Sheila
>   ----- Original Message -----
>   From: Cal Wallis
>   To: woodheat@y...
>   Sent: Sunday, September 02, 2001 10:36 AM
>   Subject: Re: [woodheat] Fisher wood stoves
>
>
>     OK
>
>
>   Fisher is no longer made. It's an old name and is now gone.
>   Better to chose an EPA certified stoves than some stove from the
70s (like Fisher, Ashley, Timberline, etc) that you've heard of.
>
>   Cal
>
>
>     Thanks, but I am looking for a brand new one, so I do not
understand your response.
>
>     Sheila
>
>
>     ----- Original Message -----
>
>     From: <mailto:wood@s...>Cal Wallis
>     To: <mailto:woodheat@y...>woodheat@y...
>     Sent: Sunday, September 02, 2001 8:12 AM
>     Subject: Re: [woodheat] Fisher wood stoves
>
>     >Sheila,
>
>     Fisher is an older name in a business where things have changed
a lot
>     for the better..if you follow. You'd do a LOT better with an EPA
>     certified stove (like one built in the last 15 years). Use 2/3
of the
>     wood (or less) and reduce chimney cleaning virtually to a
memory.
>
>     Cal
>
>     >Hi all!
>     >
>     >I am searching to purchase a Fisher wood stove,I believe, but
can not
>     >find where they are sold, or if there is a web-site regarding
heat
>     >out put, burning time and possibly price ranges. I live in
Northern
>     >CA and I hope that one of you can help me?
>     >
>     >Thank you!
>     >
>     >Sheila
>
>
>
>     Check THE woodheat web site at www.woodheat.org
>
>
>     Your use of Yahoo! Groups is subject to the
<http://docs.yahoo.com/info/terms/>Yahoo! Terms of Service.
>
>
>     Yahoo! Groups Sponsor ADVERTISEMENT
>    
<http://rd.yahoo.com/M=210544.1579876.3135161.1261774/D=egroupweb/S=17
05064226:HM/A=776675/R=0/*http://ads.track-star.com/adspace.ts?
ts=1;2;217;107_220_105_264>
>     Check THE woodheat web site at www.woodheat.org
>
>
>     Your use of Yahoo! Groups is subject to the
<http://docs.yahoo.com/info/terms/>Yahoo! Terms of Service.



Check THE woodheat web site at  www.woodheat.org


Your use of Yahoo! Groups is subject to the Yahoo! Terms of Service.

I have an open(not air tight)wood burning stove at our summer cabin
with 10 inch black steel flue pipe.  I am having trouble finding
replacement pipe.  All that I can locate is 6 inch and 8 inch.  The
stove is in good shape since it is only used 20 or so times a year.
Any Suggestions?

10" is definitely not a size carried by most lumber companies, hardware
stores and home improvement centers.  You might try a sheet-metal shop that
can fab it up in any gauge you desire.  If you go this route you might as
well go as heavy as reasonably practical as the labor cost will be more that
the additional material by going the extra thickness.  You could  specify
plain carbon steel (not galvanized) then paint it with a black heat resistant
stove paint for appearance.

John

> Question 2:
> Also, is it best to have the Tee which comes through the wall be
> flush with the wall or is it o.k. to have it hang over for an inch or
> two?

Kate,
The horizontal part of the tee should always project beyond the wall at least an
inch. I would leave it about three inches. You will need some projection in
order to install three sheet metal screws to hold the flue pipe securely to the
liner. The more projection you have, the easier it is to drill the pilot holes.
Regards,
John Gulland
The Wood Heat Organization Inc.
http://www.woodheat.org
A non-commercial service in support of responsible home heating with wood

I have been told by numerous installers and repair
people that a non catylyst stove is a better design
with lower repair bills.Make a study of it ask
questions and you can see for your self who wants all
your $ and who only want what is right for you and
your family.I am told JUCA makes a surerior fireplace
and inserts but I do not know first hand they have a
lot of useful info on there website,good luck...
--- Leonatra <leonatra@...> wrote:
> Hi John and others,
> First, thanx for answering question 2. Makes lots of
> sense. (previous professionally installed 8"
> connector was flush with the wall and the
> professionally installed stove pipe was just pushed
> into this, could not even have been screwed in.
> Wondering now, if 17 yrs ago that should have been
> done different.)
>
> Anyway, now we've checked on so many wood stoves -
> with and without catalytic converters.
> As more as we read as more difficult the choice
> seems to become. Usually word of mouth is best.
> I would also like to get some general input and also
>  some input or comparison of like/dislike and
> advantage/disadvantage from listmembers who have
> used both type of stoves - for an entire heating
> season each.
>
> Our home is about 1400 sq feet and sits on a
> basement which is 2/3 in the ground. The house has
> triple glas windows, 6 " walls and is well
> insulated. The chimney is an outside chimney
> (actually 2 chimneys) but the one we will be using
> is the 6" steel lined chimney.
>
> Our 17 yr old non-catalytic Blazeking used around 3
> cords of wood annually and was our exclusive heat
> source (we have electric back up). We live in cold
> climate in the NW corner of Montan
>
> We have looked at
>
> Pacific Energy Super 27,
> Blaze King Princess (PE 1006) with catalytic
> converter and the
> upcoming Blazewood Briarwood non-catalytic
> Vermont Castings Dutchwest
> as well as one catalytic Englander
>
> Looking forward to accounts of firsthand experience
> rather than brochures  :-)
> Kate
>
>
>